# Start End Original Translated
1 00:00:00,000 00:00:05,000 (wind howling) (Joe panting) (wind howling) (Joe panting)
2 00:00:09,859 00:00:11,340 - I knew people died in mountains - I knew people died in mountains
3 00:00:11,340 00:00:13,429 long before I had my accident. long before I had my accident.
4 00:00:13,429 00:00:16,380 (wind howling) (Joe panting) (wind howling) (Joe panting)
5 00:00:16,380 00:00:20,020 I sort of understood you were playing a game I sort of understood you were playing a game
6 00:00:20,020 00:00:21,423 for very high stakes, for very high stakes,
7 00:00:22,340 00:00:25,193 and you might not actually have a choice over your fate. and you might not actually have a choice over your fate.
8 00:00:26,051 00:00:28,090 (ice cracking) (wind howling) (ice cracking) (wind howling)
9 00:00:28,090 00:00:31,260 You'd like to think you control the odds You'd like to think you control the odds
10 00:00:31,260 00:00:33,183 by your judgment and by your skill, by your judgment and by your skill,
11 00:00:34,830 00:00:36,896 and that's not exactly true. and that's not exactly true.
12 00:00:36,896 00:00:39,010 (wind howling) (Joe panting) (wind howling) (Joe panting)
13 00:00:39,010 00:00:40,860 - [Steven] The climber, Joe Simpson, - [Steven] The climber, Joe Simpson,
14 00:00:40,860 00:00:44,234 was 25 when he had an accident that nearly killed him. was 25 when he had an accident that nearly killed him.
15 00:00:44,234 00:00:46,110 (ice crashing) (intense music) (ice crashing) (intense music)
16 00:00:46,110 00:00:48,540 He wrote a book, "Touching the Void", He wrote a book, "Touching the Void",
17 00:00:48,540 00:00:51,013 about his extraordinary battle to survive. about his extraordinary battle to survive.
18 00:00:51,013 00:00:53,750 (intense music) (intense music)
19 00:00:53,750 00:00:56,110 Now, he is going back to the mountain Now, he is going back to the mountain
20 00:00:56,110 00:00:58,033 that first inspired him to climb, that first inspired him to climb,
21 00:00:59,060 00:01:02,712 to tell a story that has haunted him since he was a boy. to tell a story that has haunted him since he was a boy.
22 00:01:02,712 00:01:04,270 (intense music) (intense music)
23 00:01:04,270 00:01:07,840 It is the tale of a great adventure, that just like his, It is the tale of a great adventure, that just like his,
24 00:01:07,840 00:01:11,051 turned into a terrifying test of endurance. turned into a terrifying test of endurance.
25 00:01:11,051 00:01:11,910 (intense music) (intense music)
26 00:01:11,910 00:01:15,270 - [Joe] When I was 14, I read the story that stayed with me - [Joe] When I was 14, I read the story that stayed with me
27 00:01:15,270 00:01:17,210 for the rest of my life. for the rest of my life.
28 00:01:17,210 00:01:19,223 It was the story of Toni Kurz. It was the story of Toni Kurz.
29 00:01:19,223 00:01:21,020 (intense music) (intense music)
30 00:01:21,020 00:01:24,930 It says so many things about friendship, courage, It says so many things about friendship, courage,
31 00:01:24,930 00:01:27,034 and strength, and human spirit. and strength, and human spirit.
32 00:01:27,034 00:01:28,544 (intense music) (intense music)
33 00:01:28,544 00:01:29,714 It inspired me to climb. It inspired me to climb.
34 00:01:29,714 00:01:30,547 (intense music) (intense music)
35 00:01:30,547 00:01:32,454 In many ways, it's my story. In many ways, it's my story.
36 00:01:32,454 00:01:35,121 (intense music) (intense music)
37 00:01:36,680 00:01:40,064 We thought it was worth risking everything. We thought it was worth risking everything.
38 00:01:40,064 00:01:41,810 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
39 00:01:41,810 00:01:42,792 And we did. And we did.
40 00:01:42,792 00:01:47,792 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
41 00:01:54,176 00:01:58,810 (traffic droning) (sirens ringing) (traffic droning) (sirens ringing)
42 00:01:58,810 00:02:00,755 I've spent my life climbing mountains. I've spent my life climbing mountains.
43 00:02:00,755 00:02:02,360 (train droning) (intense music) (train droning) (intense music)
44 00:02:02,360 00:02:04,766 Climbed difficult mountains, climbed easy mountains. Climbed difficult mountains, climbed easy mountains.
45 00:02:04,766 00:02:06,377 (train droning) (intense music) (train droning) (intense music)
46 00:02:06,377 00:02:07,577 And I've climbed all over the world. And I've climbed all over the world.
47 00:02:07,577 00:02:10,697 (train droning) (intense music) (train droning) (intense music)
48 00:02:10,697 00:02:13,525 But my dream is always to climb the Eiger. But my dream is always to climb the Eiger.
49 00:02:13,525 00:02:14,960 (train droning) (intense music) (train droning) (intense music)
50 00:02:14,960 00:02:16,970 - [Steven] Of all the summits in the Alps, - [Steven] Of all the summits in the Alps,
51 00:02:16,970 00:02:20,595 the Eiger is the mountain that is a legend among climbers. the Eiger is the mountain that is a legend among climbers.
52 00:02:20,595 00:02:22,410 (train droning) (intense music) (train droning) (intense music)
53 00:02:22,410 00:02:24,330 It has fascinated Joe Simpson It has fascinated Joe Simpson
54 00:02:24,330 00:02:26,186 for as long as he can remember. for as long as he can remember.
55 00:02:26,186 00:02:27,540 (train droning) (intense music) (train droning) (intense music)
56 00:02:27,540 00:02:29,630 - It is not the greatest mountain in the world. - It is not the greatest mountain in the world.
57 00:02:29,630 00:02:31,417 It is not the most beautiful mountain in the world, It is not the most beautiful mountain in the world,
58 00:02:31,417 00:02:34,290 and the climbing on it is not the hardest, and the climbing on it is not the hardest,
59 00:02:34,290 00:02:35,590 but to me, anyway, but to me, anyway,
60 00:02:35,590 00:02:37,960 and I think to many others of our generation, and I think to many others of our generation,
61 00:02:37,960 00:02:39,746 it's a seminal mountain. it's a seminal mountain.
62 00:02:39,746 00:02:44,370 (train droning) (intense music) (train droning) (intense music)
63 00:02:44,370 00:02:46,863 And it has a sort of hypnotic power about it, And it has a sort of hypnotic power about it,
64 00:02:48,070 00:02:52,015 it has an atmosphere, something truly intimidating. it has an atmosphere, something truly intimidating.
65 00:02:52,015 00:02:53,870 (intense music) (intense music)
66 00:02:53,870 00:02:56,013 This brooding presence. This brooding presence.
67 00:02:56,013 00:02:57,430 (intense music) (intense music)
68 00:02:57,430 00:03:00,643 The first time you see it, you just look up and up. The first time you see it, you just look up and up.
69 00:03:01,490 00:03:03,292 And you just thing, "Good God." And you just thing, "Good God."
70 00:03:03,292 00:03:06,500 (wind howling) (wind howling)
71 00:03:06,500 00:03:08,840 - [Steven] From the east, west and south, - [Steven] From the east, west and south,
72 00:03:08,840 00:03:11,009 the Eiger looks like any other mountain. the Eiger looks like any other mountain.
73 00:03:11,009 00:03:12,370 (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music)
74 00:03:12,370 00:03:15,148 It is it's north face that makes it a legend. It is it's north face that makes it a legend.
75 00:03:15,148 00:03:16,770 (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music)
76 00:03:16,770 00:03:20,300 A 6,000 foot vertical wall of rock and ice, A 6,000 foot vertical wall of rock and ice,
77 00:03:20,300 00:03:23,770 it is a place that never gets the sun. it is a place that never gets the sun.
78 00:03:23,770 00:03:27,610 And standing exposed to every storm sweeping into the Alps, And standing exposed to every storm sweeping into the Alps,
79 00:03:27,610 00:03:29,480 it is a mountain where the weather can change it is a mountain where the weather can change
80 00:03:29,480 00:03:31,033 with breathtaking speed. with breathtaking speed.
81 00:03:32,130 00:03:33,940 - [Joe] I've seen it happen. - [Joe] I've seen it happen.
82 00:03:33,940 00:03:36,440 I've seen the face turn into a maelstrom I've seen the face turn into a maelstrom
83 00:03:36,440 00:03:39,380 of rockfall and avalanches, of rockfall and avalanches,
84 00:03:39,380 00:03:42,250 the like of which I've never witnessed on any mountain the like of which I've never witnessed on any mountain
85 00:03:42,250 00:03:43,481 in my life. in my life.
86 00:03:43,481 00:03:46,140 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
87 00:03:46,140 00:03:48,770 There's something else extraordinary about it, There's something else extraordinary about it,
88 00:03:48,770 00:03:51,577 that almost heightens the sense of danger. that almost heightens the sense of danger.
89 00:03:51,577 00:03:52,410 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
90 00:03:52,410 00:03:55,190 You are so close to luxurious hotels, You are so close to luxurious hotels,
91 00:03:55,190 00:03:57,190 to people having fun, to people having fun,
92 00:03:57,190 00:03:58,960 you could hear the excited chatter you could hear the excited chatter
93 00:03:58,960 00:04:00,840 of tourists getting on and off the trains of tourists getting on and off the trains
94 00:04:00,840 00:04:02,690 and drinking their beers. and drinking their beers.
95 00:04:02,690 00:04:05,158 You can see them and they can see you. You can see them and they can see you.
96 00:04:05,158 00:04:10,158 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
97 00:04:12,200 00:04:13,860 - [Steven] More than 60 men have died - [Steven] More than 60 men have died
98 00:04:13,860 00:04:15,697 on the north face of the Eiger. on the north face of the Eiger.
99 00:04:15,697 00:04:16,590 (placid music) (placid music)
100 00:04:16,590 00:04:18,410 It has killed some of the best young climbers It has killed some of the best young climbers
101 00:04:18,410 00:04:19,940 of their generation, of their generation,
102 00:04:19,940 00:04:22,440 and forced some of the most dramatic mountain rescues and forced some of the most dramatic mountain rescues
103 00:04:22,440 00:04:23,634 in the Alps. in the Alps.
104 00:04:23,634 00:04:25,410 (placid music) (placid music)
105 00:04:25,410 00:04:27,200 And it was this bleak history And it was this bleak history
106 00:04:27,200 00:04:29,713 that caught Joe's imagination as a boy. that caught Joe's imagination as a boy.
107 00:04:29,713 00:04:32,800 (placid music) (placid music)
108 00:04:32,800 00:04:35,450 - My father gave me a book called "The White Spider". - My father gave me a book called "The White Spider".
109 00:04:36,880 00:04:39,892 It was fascinating and it was frightening. It was fascinating and it was frightening.
110 00:04:39,892 00:04:42,475 (placid music) (placid music)
111 00:04:43,400 00:04:48,080 And it was those stories, and one story in particular, And it was those stories, and one story in particular,
112 00:04:48,080 00:04:51,993 the story of Toni Kurz, that made me want to climb. the story of Toni Kurz, that made me want to climb.
113 00:04:51,993 00:04:54,576 (placid music) (placid music)
114 00:04:58,810 00:05:00,970 There's a picture of Kurz sitting in meadow There's a picture of Kurz sitting in meadow
115 00:05:00,970 00:05:03,022 in the summer of 1936. in the summer of 1936.
116 00:05:03,022 00:05:03,855 (placid music) (placid music)
117 00:05:03,855 00:05:06,450 This smiling young man looking at you from the past This smiling young man looking at you from the past
118 00:05:06,450 00:05:08,850 and he was just a vibrant, and he was just a vibrant,
119 00:05:08,850 00:05:11,823 energetic, ambitious young climber. energetic, ambitious young climber.
120 00:05:12,860 00:05:16,389 It was just absolute excitement, it's what he lived for. It was just absolute excitement, it's what he lived for.
121 00:05:16,389 00:05:18,170 (placid music) (placid music)
122 00:05:18,170 00:05:19,480 - [Steven] But this is not just a story - [Steven] But this is not just a story
123 00:05:19,480 00:05:21,390 that inspired Joe to climb. that inspired Joe to climb.
124 00:05:21,390 00:05:23,430 (placid music) (placid music)
125 00:05:23,430 00:05:25,080 11 years after reading of what happened 11 years after reading of what happened
126 00:05:25,080 00:05:26,900 to Kurz on the Eiger, to Kurz on the Eiger,
127 00:05:26,900 00:05:30,470 Joe had a climbing accident in Peru that nearly killed him. Joe had a climbing accident in Peru that nearly killed him.
128 00:05:30,470 00:05:33,139 (intense music) (intense music)
129 00:05:33,139 00:05:35,560 And what has haunted him ever since And what has haunted him ever since
130 00:05:35,560 00:05:38,420 is that in strange and disturbing ways, is that in strange and disturbing ways,
131 00:05:38,420 00:05:42,539 his accident echoed the story of his childhood hero. his accident echoed the story of his childhood hero.
132 00:05:42,539 00:05:44,582 (wind howling) (wind howling)
133 00:05:44,582 00:05:46,400 - [Joe] Kurz was always there. - [Joe] Kurz was always there.
134 00:05:46,400 00:05:48,198 Kurz was always this figure. Kurz was always this figure.
135 00:05:48,198 00:05:49,740 (wind howling) (wind howling)
136 00:05:49,740 00:05:52,928 But what happened to me in Peru led me back to him. But what happened to me in Peru led me back to him.
137 00:05:52,928 00:05:55,390 (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music)
138 00:05:55,390 00:05:58,528 (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music)
139 00:05:58,528 00:06:01,070 (speaking in foreign language) (speaking in foreign language)
140 00:06:01,070 00:06:02,040 - [Steven] Toni Kurz set out - [Steven] Toni Kurz set out
141 00:06:02,040 00:06:03,810 to climb the north face of the Eiger to climb the north face of the Eiger
142 00:06:03,810 00:06:06,350 on the 20th of July, 1936. on the 20th of July, 1936.
143 00:06:06,350 00:06:07,960 (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language)
144 00:06:07,960 00:06:10,240 He and his fellow climbers were only the second team He and his fellow climbers were only the second team
145 00:06:10,240 00:06:11,859 in its history to attempt it. in its history to attempt it.
146 00:06:11,859 00:06:15,010 (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music)
147 00:06:15,010 00:06:19,622 Kurz was 23, a newly qualified mountain guide from Bavaria. Kurz was 23, a newly qualified mountain guide from Bavaria.
148 00:06:19,622 00:06:21,200 (placid music) (gear rattling) (placid music) (gear rattling)
149 00:06:21,200 00:06:23,700 He was climbing with his friend and fellow guide, He was climbing with his friend and fellow guide,
150 00:06:23,700 00:06:24,890 a brilliant young rock climber a brilliant young rock climber
151 00:06:24,890 00:06:26,889 called Andreas Hinterstoisser. called Andreas Hinterstoisser.
152 00:06:26,889 00:06:29,230 (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music)
153 00:06:29,230 00:06:32,280 They had joined up on the climb with two Austrians. They had joined up on the climb with two Austrians.
154 00:06:32,280 00:06:35,230 27 year old Willy Angerer was the eldest. 27 year old Willy Angerer was the eldest.
155 00:06:35,230 00:06:36,290 (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language)
156 00:06:36,290 00:06:39,360 His partner, Edi Rainer, was the most experienced, His partner, Edi Rainer, was the most experienced,
157 00:06:39,360 00:06:42,039 a highly talented route finder and mountaineer. a highly talented route finder and mountaineer.
158 00:06:42,039 00:06:44,548 (placid music) (gear rattling) (placid music) (gear rattling)
159 00:06:44,548 00:06:46,150 (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language)
160 00:06:46,150 00:06:48,650 Their progress up the north face that day Their progress up the north face that day
161 00:06:48,650 00:06:50,488 had turned into a public event. had turned into a public event.
162 00:06:50,488 00:06:52,200 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
163 00:06:52,200 00:06:53,940 They were being watched from the valley below They were being watched from the valley below
164 00:06:53,940 00:06:57,009 by a cluster of reporters and tourists. by a cluster of reporters and tourists.
165 00:06:57,009 00:06:58,260 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
166 00:06:58,260 00:07:01,010 One by one, in the early 1930s, One by one, in the early 1930s,
167 00:07:01,010 00:07:04,550 the great north faces of the Alps had been claimed, the great north faces of the Alps had been claimed,
168 00:07:04,550 00:07:06,631 but the Eiger was still unconquered. but the Eiger was still unconquered.
169 00:07:06,631 00:07:07,650 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
170 00:07:07,650 00:07:10,760 It was so difficult, so dangerous, It was so difficult, so dangerous,
171 00:07:10,760 00:07:12,760 that one climber called it an obsession that one climber called it an obsession
172 00:07:12,760 00:07:14,687 for the mentally deranged. for the mentally deranged.
173 00:07:14,687 00:07:16,300 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
174 00:07:16,300 00:07:17,980 - As you approach the bottom part of the face, - As you approach the bottom part of the face,
175 00:07:17,980 00:07:20,000 you climb the sheers of shattered rock walls you climb the sheers of shattered rock walls
176 00:07:20,000 00:07:21,810 and rubble strewn ledgers. and rubble strewn ledgers.
177 00:07:21,810 00:07:23,800 Then you get under the Rote Fluh. Then you get under the Rote Fluh.
178 00:07:23,800 00:07:25,800 It's a tiny feature on this face, It's a tiny feature on this face,
179 00:07:25,800 00:07:29,490 and yet, it's 1,000 feet high, an overhanging wall of rock. and yet, it's 1,000 feet high, an overhanging wall of rock.
180 00:07:29,490 00:07:32,909 Then around the corner to the edge of the first field. Then around the corner to the edge of the first field.
181 00:07:32,909 00:07:33,742 (placid music) (placid music)
182 00:07:33,742 00:07:35,753 The second ice field is this great swath of ice, The second ice field is this great swath of ice,
183 00:07:35,753 00:07:39,500 1,800 feet wide, it's steep, it's getting steeper. 1,800 feet wide, it's steep, it's getting steeper.
184 00:07:39,500 00:07:41,640 And every time from now on that you get onto rock, And every time from now on that you get onto rock,
185 00:07:41,640 00:07:43,800 it's getting steeper and steeper. it's getting steeper and steeper.
186 00:07:43,800 00:07:46,280 Until you get right to the base of the great ice shoot, Until you get right to the base of the great ice shoot,
187 00:07:46,280 00:07:47,653 called the White Spider. called the White Spider.
188 00:07:48,490 00:07:51,090 If you fell at this point, you would zip out into space. If you fell at this point, you would zip out into space.
189 00:07:51,090 00:07:53,752 You probably wouldn't touch anything for 5,000 feet. You probably wouldn't touch anything for 5,000 feet.
190 00:07:53,752 00:07:55,490 (placid music) (placid music)
191 00:07:55,490 00:07:57,840 - [Steven] It was the scale of this vertical rock face - [Steven] It was the scale of this vertical rock face
192 00:07:57,840 00:08:00,541 that defeated the first climbers to attempt it. that defeated the first climbers to attempt it.
193 00:08:00,541 00:08:02,710 (placid music) (placid music)
194 00:08:02,710 00:08:06,260 Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer set of in the summer Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer set of in the summer
195 00:08:06,260 00:08:07,616 of the previous year. of the previous year.
196 00:08:07,616 00:08:08,449 (placid music) (placid music)
197 00:08:08,449 00:08:12,050 Three days into their climb, a storm hit the face. Three days into their climb, a storm hit the face.
198 00:08:12,050 00:08:15,570 The men were seen trying to climb up and out to safety. The men were seen trying to climb up and out to safety.
199 00:08:15,570 00:08:19,130 But on the fifth day, they disappeared. But on the fifth day, they disappeared.
200 00:08:19,130 00:08:22,030 Sedlmeyer's body was found frozen into the ice Sedlmeyer's body was found frozen into the ice
201 00:08:22,030 00:08:25,018 at a place now called Death Bivouac. at a place now called Death Bivouac.
202 00:08:25,018 00:08:27,490 (placid music) (placid music)
203 00:08:27,490 00:08:29,680 It was a very controversial tragedy. It was a very controversial tragedy.
204 00:08:29,680 00:08:30,513 (placid music) (placid music)
205 00:08:30,513 00:08:32,983 Climbers had died on many mountains in the Alps, Climbers had died on many mountains in the Alps,
206 00:08:32,983 00:08:35,349 but not in full view of the public. but not in full view of the public.
207 00:08:35,349 00:08:36,800 (placid music) (placid music)
208 00:08:36,800 00:08:39,680 The north face was called a suicidal challenge. The north face was called a suicidal challenge.
209 00:08:39,680 00:08:42,557 There was talk of banning it to climbers. There was talk of banning it to climbers.
210 00:08:42,557 00:08:45,380 But the following summer, Kurz and his friends arrived, But the following summer, Kurz and his friends arrived,
211 00:08:45,380 00:08:49,130 ambitious young climbers chasing a great first ascent. ambitious young climbers chasing a great first ascent.
212 00:08:49,130 00:08:52,018 (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language)
213 00:08:52,018 00:08:53,600 - They wanted to do it for the same reason we did, - They wanted to do it for the same reason we did,
214 00:08:53,600 00:08:55,940 to see if it was possible. to see if it was possible.
215 00:08:55,940 00:08:58,410 You don't feel like you ever have to justify yourself You don't feel like you ever have to justify yourself
216 00:08:58,410 00:08:59,740 to anybody else. to anybody else.
217 00:08:59,740 00:09:00,840 You go and do these things You go and do these things
218 00:09:00,840 00:09:03,560 and if other people think you're stupid or irresponsible, and if other people think you're stupid or irresponsible,
219 00:09:03,560 00:09:05,255 you don't give a damn. you don't give a damn.
220 00:09:05,255 00:09:07,230 (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music)
221 00:09:07,230 00:09:09,447 And I suppose as a young boy, I just thought, And I suppose as a young boy, I just thought,
222 00:09:09,447 00:09:12,407 "God, what an extraordinary thing to do." "God, what an extraordinary thing to do."
223 00:09:13,420 00:09:16,410 Not just a brave thing to do, an extraordinary thing to do. Not just a brave thing to do, an extraordinary thing to do.
224 00:09:16,410 00:09:17,997 To look at a face like that To look at a face like that
225 00:09:17,997 00:09:20,207 and just think, "I'm good enough. and just think, "I'm good enough.
226 00:09:20,207 00:09:22,450 "I will climb this, I will succeed." "I will climb this, I will succeed."
227 00:09:22,450 00:09:24,661 (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language)
228 00:09:24,661 00:09:29,661 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
229 00:09:33,490 00:09:34,950 - [Steven] But there was a reason people said - [Steven] But there was a reason people said
230 00:09:34,950 00:09:37,270 the north face was impossible. the north face was impossible.
231 00:09:37,270 00:09:40,283 Confidence and optimism do not protect you on this mountain. Confidence and optimism do not protect you on this mountain.
232 00:09:41,860 00:09:44,040 And what happened to these four young climbers And what happened to these four young climbers
233 00:09:44,040 00:09:45,740 over the next five days over the next five days
234 00:09:45,740 00:09:47,810 proved beyond doubt that the Eiger proved beyond doubt that the Eiger
235 00:09:47,810 00:09:51,848 was every bit as frightening as its reputation suggested. was every bit as frightening as its reputation suggested.
236 00:09:51,848 00:09:56,848 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
237 00:09:58,006 00:10:00,839 (snow thundering) (snow thundering)
238 00:10:05,440 00:10:07,310 The risk of an unexpected avalanche The risk of an unexpected avalanche
239 00:10:07,310 00:10:09,218 is always present in the Alps. is always present in the Alps.
240 00:10:09,218 00:10:11,710 (snow thundering) (snow thundering)
241 00:10:11,710 00:10:15,330 Unstable ice and snow, the threat of sudden storms Unstable ice and snow, the threat of sudden storms
242 00:10:15,330 00:10:17,367 are what make these mountains dangerous. are what make these mountains dangerous.
243 00:10:17,367 00:10:20,200 (snow thundering) (snow thundering)
244 00:10:21,340 00:10:23,590 Joe has been waiting for days for a weather window Joe has been waiting for days for a weather window
245 00:10:23,590 00:10:25,440 to climb on the Eiger. to climb on the Eiger.
246 00:10:25,440 00:10:28,690 Local mountain guides advised that heavy snowfall Local mountain guides advised that heavy snowfall
247 00:10:28,690 00:10:31,470 and the unpredictable weather made it too great a risk and the unpredictable weather made it too great a risk
248 00:10:31,470 00:10:33,823 for him and his climbing partner, Cubby. for him and his climbing partner, Cubby.
249 00:10:33,823 00:10:35,530 - [Man] In the summer, you have sun in the top of the ramp. - [Man] In the summer, you have sun in the top of the ramp.
250 00:10:35,530 00:10:37,200 - [Steven] The Eiger is a mountain Joe has dreamt - [Steven] The Eiger is a mountain Joe has dreamt
251 00:10:37,200 00:10:38,733 of climbing all his life. of climbing all his life.
252 00:10:39,740 00:10:43,169 But bad luck and bad injuries have intervened each time. But bad luck and bad injuries have intervened each time.
253 00:10:43,169 00:10:44,020 (placid music) (placid music)
254 00:10:44,020 00:10:46,880 - This mountain, it's quite addictive. - This mountain, it's quite addictive.
255 00:10:46,880 00:10:48,253 But it will blow off, won't it? But it will blow off, won't it?
256 00:10:48,253 00:10:49,400 (placid music) (placid music)
257 00:10:49,400 00:10:52,400 I've made six attempts on the face, I've made six attempts on the face,
258 00:10:52,400 00:10:54,479 then got bad weather every single time. then got bad weather every single time.
259 00:10:54,479 00:10:55,960 (placid music) (placid music)
260 00:10:55,960 00:10:57,743 But it calls you. But it calls you.
261 00:10:59,670 00:11:01,230 I sort of had this phrase, I sort of had this phrase,
262 00:11:01,230 00:11:02,960 the beckoning silence of great height. the beckoning silence of great height.
263 00:11:02,960 00:11:05,650 And what I was meaning by that was this, And what I was meaning by that was this,
264 00:11:05,650 00:11:08,103 when you stand on the edge of a great drop, when you stand on the edge of a great drop,
265 00:11:09,460 00:11:13,013 it's very difficult not to be absolutely staggered by it. it's very difficult not to be absolutely staggered by it.
266 00:11:14,470 00:11:16,970 When you look at a face like that and you're most near, When you look at a face like that and you're most near,
267 00:11:16,970 00:11:21,204 you just want to go up there and play games on it. you just want to go up there and play games on it.
268 00:11:21,204 00:11:23,360 (wind howling) (wind howling)
269 00:11:23,360 00:11:25,480 - [Steven] Joe is here to retrace key sections - [Steven] Joe is here to retrace key sections
270 00:11:25,480 00:11:27,880 of the route that Toni Kurz and his friends of the route that Toni Kurz and his friends
271 00:11:27,880 00:11:31,518 took up the north face in the summer of 1936. took up the north face in the summer of 1936.
272 00:11:31,518 00:11:35,060 (train droning) (wind howling) (train droning) (wind howling)
273 00:11:35,060 00:11:36,890 He will do the climb in stages, He will do the climb in stages,
274 00:11:36,890 00:11:40,340 and for the first, he has an easy shortcut to a point, and for the first, he has an easy shortcut to a point,
275 00:11:40,340 00:11:42,289 a third of the way up the face. a third of the way up the face.
276 00:11:42,289 00:11:43,860 (train droning) (train droning)
277 00:11:43,860 00:11:46,958 Because the Eiger has one other unusual feature. Because the Eiger has one other unusual feature.
278 00:11:46,958 00:11:48,450 (train droning) (train droning)
279 00:11:48,450 00:11:50,130 In the late 19th century, In the late 19th century,
280 00:11:50,130 00:11:52,280 the Swiss government built a railway tunnel the Swiss government built a railway tunnel
281 00:11:53,130 00:11:54,988 right up the middle of the mountain. right up the middle of the mountain.
282 00:11:54,988 00:11:57,790 (train droning) (train droning)
283 00:11:57,790 00:11:59,300 Half way up the track, Half way up the track,
284 00:11:59,300 00:12:02,393 a small access window was drilled through the mountain wall. a small access window was drilled through the mountain wall.
285 00:12:03,250 00:12:06,281 It opens directly onto the north face of the Eiger. It opens directly onto the north face of the Eiger.
286 00:12:06,281 00:12:07,340 (train droning) (train droning)
287 00:12:07,340 00:12:09,130 - There's such psychological baggage - There's such psychological baggage
288 00:12:09,130 00:12:11,537 that it brings with it, this face. that it brings with it, this face.
289 00:12:11,537 00:12:13,010 All the stories that you've heard, All the stories that you've heard,
290 00:12:13,010 00:12:17,500 all the possible ways you can get hurt or trapped or killed. all the possible ways you can get hurt or trapped or killed.
291 00:12:17,500 00:12:20,526 And you can't get those out your head. And you can't get those out your head.
292 00:12:20,526 00:12:23,193 (intense music) (intense music)
293 00:12:29,126 00:12:34,126 (wind howling) (gear rattling) (wind howling) (gear rattling)
294 00:12:36,582 00:12:41,580 It's quite a surreal sensation, starting a climb like this. It's quite a surreal sensation, starting a climb like this.
295 00:12:41,580 00:12:45,691 It's not often that you climb out a nice, warm train. It's not often that you climb out a nice, warm train.
296 00:12:45,691 00:12:46,820 (wind howling) (wind howling)
297 00:12:46,820 00:12:48,782 And then just suddenly step out of a tunnel. And then just suddenly step out of a tunnel.
298 00:12:48,782 00:12:50,630 (wind howling) (wind howling)
299 00:12:50,630 00:12:53,211 And you're just 1,500 feet up the north face of the Eiger. And you're just 1,500 feet up the north face of the Eiger.
300 00:12:53,211 00:12:56,550 (wind howling) (wind howling)
301 00:12:56,550 00:13:00,173 When you're suddenly exposed to an abyss like that, When you're suddenly exposed to an abyss like that,
302 00:13:01,290 00:13:05,141 it's impossible not to be aware of the sense of the drop. it's impossible not to be aware of the sense of the drop.
303 00:13:05,141 00:13:06,461 (Joe panting) (Joe panting)
304 00:13:06,461 00:13:10,140 The sense of the fall line below you. The sense of the fall line below you.
305 00:13:10,140 00:13:12,680 And it's quite a strange game it plays on you And it's quite a strange game it plays on you
306 00:13:12,680 00:13:17,050 because this drop isn't actually doing you any harm at all. because this drop isn't actually doing you any harm at all.
307 00:13:17,050 00:13:18,381 It's just there. It's just there.
308 00:13:18,381 00:13:20,640 (Joe panting) (Joe panting)
309 00:13:20,640 00:13:22,849 But it gets in your head. But it gets in your head.
310 00:13:22,849 00:13:24,475 (Joe panting) (Joe panting)
311 00:13:24,475 00:13:27,142 (placid music) (placid music)
312 00:13:31,057 00:13:35,400 About same time I started reading the story of Toni Kurz, About same time I started reading the story of Toni Kurz,
313 00:13:35,400 00:13:37,081 I started rock climbing. I started rock climbing.
314 00:13:37,081 00:13:37,950 (placid music) (placid music)
315 00:13:37,950 00:13:40,500 It was just like that's what I've been looking for. It was just like that's what I've been looking for.
316 00:13:41,532 00:13:43,360 And I found that, although it was a bit frightening, And I found that, although it was a bit frightening,
317 00:13:43,360 00:13:45,520 if you knew what you were doing, if you knew what you were doing,
318 00:13:45,520 00:13:46,900 you could get rid of the fear. you could get rid of the fear.
319 00:13:46,900 00:13:48,730 (placid music) (placid music)
320 00:13:48,730 00:13:50,773 That was almost an addiction really. That was almost an addiction really.
321 00:13:52,030 00:13:53,050 It always had to have It always had to have
322 00:13:53,050 00:13:57,110 that mixture of apprehension and exhilaration, that mixture of apprehension and exhilaration,
323 00:13:57,110 00:13:58,353 fear and excitement. fear and excitement.
324 00:13:59,420 00:14:02,309 And then, you want to test yourself more and more. And then, you want to test yourself more and more.
325 00:14:02,309 00:14:04,030 (placid music) (placid music)
326 00:14:04,030 00:14:06,170 You want to go and do a first ascent, You want to go and do a first ascent,
327 00:14:06,170 00:14:07,473 go and climb something go and climb something
328 00:14:07,473 00:14:10,599 with the extreme ability that you have. with the extreme ability that you have.
329 00:14:10,599 00:14:12,830 (placid music) (placid music)
330 00:14:12,830 00:14:14,580 That's how you lived. That's how you lived.
331 00:14:14,580 00:14:15,620 (placid music) (placid music)
332 00:14:15,620 00:14:18,600 And I didn't really realize how obsessive I became And I didn't really realize how obsessive I became
333 00:14:18,600 00:14:20,950 until many years later when my mother had died, until many years later when my mother had died,
334 00:14:22,050 00:14:23,880 I was given a bundle of postcards I was given a bundle of postcards
335 00:14:23,880 00:14:27,270 that I'd sent to her 20 years or so before. that I'd sent to her 20 years or so before.
336 00:14:27,270 00:14:29,993 And I didn't recognize my former self. And I didn't recognize my former self.
337 00:14:30,850 00:14:32,890 So, it was this is utterly driven person So, it was this is utterly driven person
338 00:14:32,890 00:14:35,090 who was completely obsessed. who was completely obsessed.
339 00:14:35,090 00:14:36,310 There was nothing on the cards There was nothing on the cards
340 00:14:36,310 00:14:39,610 about anything other than mountains and grades and routes, about anything other than mountains and grades and routes,
341 00:14:39,610 00:14:41,979 which would have meant absolutely nothing to my parents. which would have meant absolutely nothing to my parents.
342 00:14:41,979 00:14:42,820 (placid music) (placid music)
343 00:14:42,820 00:14:44,760 And it was all written in tiny letters, And it was all written in tiny letters,
344 00:14:44,760 00:14:46,770 all around the postcard, and there was only a little square all around the postcard, and there was only a little square
345 00:14:46,770 00:14:48,228 in the middle for the address. in the middle for the address.
346 00:14:48,228 00:14:49,610 (placid music) (placid music)
347 00:14:49,610 00:14:52,560 Perhaps you have to become a little obsessive Perhaps you have to become a little obsessive
348 00:14:52,560 00:14:54,778 to do something to that degree. to do something to that degree.
349 00:14:54,778 00:14:59,778 (placid music) (Joe panting) (placid music) (Joe panting)
350 00:15:04,285 00:15:05,118 - [Steven] At a point a third - [Steven] At a point a third
351 00:15:05,118 00:15:06,700 of the way up the north face, of the way up the north face,
352 00:15:06,700 00:15:10,060 the route of Toni Kurz's ambitious attempt on mountain, the route of Toni Kurz's ambitious attempt on mountain,
353 00:15:10,060 00:15:12,710 brings Joe within sight of a place brings Joe within sight of a place
354 00:15:12,710 00:15:14,703 that is notorious amongst climbers. that is notorious amongst climbers.
355 00:15:15,866 00:15:18,400 (wind howling) (wind howling)
356 00:15:18,400 00:15:20,740 At first, Kurz and his three friends At first, Kurz and his three friends
357 00:15:20,740 00:15:23,060 made rapid progress up the face, made rapid progress up the face,
358 00:15:23,060 00:15:26,476 climbing 1,500 feet on the morning of their first day. climbing 1,500 feet on the morning of their first day.
359 00:15:26,476 00:15:28,880 (speaking in foreign language) (eerie music) (speaking in foreign language) (eerie music)
360 00:15:28,880 00:15:31,230 But then they were stopped in their tracks But then they were stopped in their tracks
361 00:15:31,230 00:15:33,751 by a smooth slab of polished rock. by a smooth slab of polished rock.
362 00:15:33,751 00:15:36,700 (eerie music) (wind howling) (eerie music) (wind howling)
363 00:15:36,700 00:15:37,931 - Toni. - Toni.
364 00:15:37,931 00:15:40,760 (eerie music) (wind howling) (eerie music) (wind howling)
365 00:15:40,760 00:15:42,830 - [Steven] The climbers had mapped out a new route, - [Steven] The climbers had mapped out a new route,
366 00:15:42,830 00:15:44,840 gambling that the fastest way up the face gambling that the fastest way up the face
367 00:15:44,840 00:15:46,980 was to follow the path of the great ice fields was to follow the path of the great ice fields
368 00:15:46,980 00:15:48,340 at its center. at its center.
369 00:15:48,340 00:15:50,550 Their plan was to aim for the left hand corner Their plan was to aim for the left hand corner
370 00:15:50,550 00:15:52,753 of the vast rock wall, the Rote Fluh, of the vast rock wall, the Rote Fluh,
371 00:15:53,680 00:15:56,910 and sneak across to the bottom of the first ice field. and sneak across to the bottom of the first ice field.
372 00:15:56,910 00:15:58,710 But it was at this critical point But it was at this critical point
373 00:15:58,710 00:16:01,475 that the rock barrier blocked their path. that the rock barrier blocked their path.
374 00:16:01,475 00:16:04,290 (eerie music) (wind howling) (eerie music) (wind howling)
375 00:16:04,290 00:16:09,043 - This section here, it's only about 15 feet maximum. - This section here, it's only about 15 feet maximum.
376 00:16:09,920 00:16:11,493 It's incredibly smooth. It's incredibly smooth.
377 00:16:13,090 00:16:16,370 You can just see by all the crampon scratches all over it, You can just see by all the crampon scratches all over it,
378 00:16:16,370 00:16:17,883 people have had trouble here. people have had trouble here.
379 00:16:17,883 00:16:21,190 (wind howling) (wind howling)
380 00:16:21,190 00:16:24,060 It's a quite a wake up drop below, it's mine. It's a quite a wake up drop below, it's mine.
381 00:16:24,060 00:16:26,734 Probably about 2,000 feet straight down. Probably about 2,000 feet straight down.
382 00:16:26,734 00:16:29,513 (wind howling) (wind howling)
383 00:16:29,513 00:16:32,343 And up here is a very old peg. And up here is a very old peg.
384 00:16:32,343 00:16:34,580 (wind howling) (eerie music) (wind howling) (eerie music)
385 00:16:34,580 00:16:38,600 I reckon what Hinterstoisser is he climbed up these ledges, I reckon what Hinterstoisser is he climbed up these ledges,
386 00:16:38,600 00:16:40,903 put that peg in and clipped his rope in it. put that peg in and clipped his rope in it.
387 00:16:42,160 00:16:43,183 - [Andreas] Okay. - [Andreas] Okay.
388 00:16:43,183 00:16:47,000 - With the advantage of the rope above Him, - With the advantage of the rope above Him,
389 00:16:47,000 00:16:49,570 he could sort of do a downward traverse he could sort of do a downward traverse
390 00:16:49,570 00:16:52,040 across these very smooth slabs, across these very smooth slabs,
391 00:16:52,040 00:16:55,490 being given tension by his companions. being given tension by his companions.
392 00:16:55,490 00:16:56,586 - [Andreas] Okay. - [Andreas] Okay.
393 00:16:56,586 00:17:01,586 (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music)
394 00:17:05,176 00:17:06,080 - [Joe] Hinterstoisser knew he - [Joe] Hinterstoisser knew he
395 00:17:06,080 00:17:07,570 was the best rock climber there, was the best rock climber there,
396 00:17:07,570 00:17:10,025 he was the only one who could do this. he was the only one who could do this.
397 00:17:10,025 00:17:11,230 (intense music) (intense music)
398 00:17:11,230 00:17:14,670 But if he falls off, he's gonna take a huge swing But if he falls off, he's gonna take a huge swing
399 00:17:14,670 00:17:16,243 and be hanging underneath. and be hanging underneath.
400 00:17:17,472 00:17:21,353 (rock grinding) (gear rattling) (rock grinding) (gear rattling)
401 00:17:21,353 00:17:24,850 (Andreas panting) (intense music) (Andreas panting) (intense music)
402 00:17:24,850 00:17:27,370 - [Steven] Edging sideways and a step by step traverse - [Steven] Edging sideways and a step by step traverse
403 00:17:27,370 00:17:29,420 across this near vertical rock across this near vertical rock
404 00:17:29,420 00:17:31,740 is still so difficult and dangerous is still so difficult and dangerous
405 00:17:31,740 00:17:35,116 that climbers today always leave a fixed rope in place. that climbers today always leave a fixed rope in place.
406 00:17:35,116 00:17:37,117 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
407 00:17:37,117 00:17:39,410 But Hinterstoisser was climbing rock But Hinterstoisser was climbing rock
408 00:17:39,410 00:17:41,600 no one had touched before. no one had touched before.
409 00:17:41,600 00:17:43,450 And he was climbing into the unknown. And he was climbing into the unknown.
410 00:17:44,420 00:17:46,560 He had no way of telling what lay out of sight He had no way of telling what lay out of sight
411 00:17:46,560 00:17:47,785 around the corner. around the corner.
412 00:17:47,785 00:17:52,785 (gear rattling) (wind howling) (gear rattling) (wind howling)
413 00:18:12,551 00:18:13,384 (shouting in foreign language) (shouting in foreign language)
414 00:18:13,384 00:18:18,384 (gear rattling) (wind howling) (gear rattling) (wind howling)
415 00:18:24,709 00:18:27,856 - Toni, (shouts in foreign language)! - Toni, (shouts in foreign language)!
416 00:18:27,856 00:18:30,341 (speaking in foreign language) (speaking in foreign language)
417 00:18:30,341 00:18:35,341 (placid music) (gear rattling) (placid music) (gear rattling)
418 00:18:38,500 00:18:40,512 - [Steven] It was virtuoso a piece of climbing. - [Steven] It was virtuoso a piece of climbing.
419 00:18:40,512 00:18:42,500 (placid music) (placid music)
420 00:18:42,500 00:18:44,800 Crossing this 100 foot stretch of rock Crossing this 100 foot stretch of rock
421 00:18:44,800 00:18:47,176 had unlocked the heart of the face. had unlocked the heart of the face.
422 00:18:47,176 00:18:49,200 (placid music) (placid music)
423 00:18:49,200 00:18:51,300 With the security of the rope in place, With the security of the rope in place,
424 00:18:51,300 00:18:53,536 his friends could cross one by one. his friends could cross one by one.
425 00:18:53,536 00:18:55,250 (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language)
426 00:18:55,250 00:18:57,460 And all of them knew it was possible And all of them knew it was possible
427 00:18:57,460 00:19:00,347 that nothing as difficult as this lay between them that nothing as difficult as this lay between them
428 00:19:00,347 00:19:02,137 and the summit. and the summit.
429 00:19:02,137 00:19:07,137 (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music)
430 00:19:09,380 00:19:12,112 - [Joe] They set off on a great adventure. - [Joe] They set off on a great adventure.
431 00:19:12,112 00:19:12,950 (placid music) (placid music)
432 00:19:12,950 00:19:15,270 They believed in themselves, They believed in themselves,
433 00:19:15,270 00:19:17,233 and they proved to their own brilliance and they proved to their own brilliance
434 00:19:17,233 00:19:19,752 that they were capable of doing this. that they were capable of doing this.
435 00:19:19,752 00:19:23,200 (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music)
436 00:19:23,200 00:19:25,990 - That's what I loved about climbing. - That's what I loved about climbing.
437 00:19:25,990 00:19:27,760 It's about having fun. It's about having fun.
438 00:19:27,760 00:19:29,581 It's about living to the full. It's about living to the full.
439 00:19:29,581 00:19:32,930 (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music)
440 00:19:32,930 00:19:34,440 I look at Kurz, I look at Kurz,
441 00:19:34,440 00:19:36,120 and it's almost like seeing back and it's almost like seeing back
442 00:19:37,090 00:19:38,960 to when you were 20 years old. to when you were 20 years old.
443 00:19:38,960 00:19:43,960 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
444 00:19:47,820 00:19:51,470 We thought it was worth risking everything, We thought it was worth risking everything,
445 00:19:51,470 00:19:52,760 all of the rest of your life, all of the rest of your life,
446 00:19:52,760 00:19:54,760 every happiness you ever could have had, every happiness you ever could have had,
447 00:19:57,001 00:19:57,890 and all the expenses you have and all the expenses you have
448 00:19:57,890 00:20:01,000 in all the countries and on all the mountains, in all the countries and on all the mountains,
449 00:20:01,000 00:20:03,610 they change who you are and they mold who you are, they change who you are and they mold who you are,
450 00:20:03,610 00:20:05,820 and they become, it becomes something and they become, it becomes something
451 00:20:05,820 00:20:08,584 that's life enhancing and life defining. that's life enhancing and life defining.
452 00:20:08,584 00:20:11,251 (placid music) (placid music)
453 00:20:21,780 00:20:24,100 - [Steven] The dream of a first ascent on the north face - [Steven] The dream of a first ascent on the north face
454 00:20:24,100 00:20:25,451 was now in sight. was now in sight.
455 00:20:25,451 00:20:27,250 (wind howling) (speaking in foreign language) (wind howling) (speaking in foreign language)
456 00:20:27,250 00:20:28,800 But in their relation that morning, But in their relation that morning,
457 00:20:28,800 00:20:32,050 there was one thing the four climbers didn't know. there was one thing the four climbers didn't know.
458 00:20:32,050 00:20:34,620 Without a rope fixed in place, Without a rope fixed in place,
459 00:20:34,620 00:20:38,051 it is impossible to climb back across the traverse. it is impossible to climb back across the traverse.
460 00:20:38,051 00:20:39,280 (eerie music) (gear rattling) (eerie music) (gear rattling)
461 00:20:39,280 00:20:42,100 - What they were thinking about was the way ahead. - What they were thinking about was the way ahead.
462 00:20:42,100 00:20:43,988 They intended to climb to the summit. They intended to climb to the summit.
463 00:20:43,988 00:20:45,497 (eerie music) (eerie music)
464 00:20:45,497 00:20:47,430 And as they pulled the roped back, And as they pulled the roped back,
465 00:20:47,430 00:20:51,520 it didn't for one moment enter their minds it didn't for one moment enter their minds
466 00:20:52,440 00:20:55,356 that they might have to try and come back this way. that they might have to try and come back this way.
467 00:20:55,356 00:21:00,356 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
468 00:21:03,034 00:21:05,280 - [Steven] 3,000 feet up the north face of the Eiger, - [Steven] 3,000 feet up the north face of the Eiger,
469 00:21:05,280 00:21:06,722 the terrain changes. the terrain changes.
470 00:21:06,722 00:21:10,130 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
471 00:21:10,130 00:21:12,430 A massive ice field extends across the width A massive ice field extends across the width
472 00:21:12,430 00:21:15,890 of the rock face at the halfway point of the climb. of the rock face at the halfway point of the climb.
473 00:21:15,890 00:21:18,093 And with it comes a new danger. And with it comes a new danger.
474 00:21:18,093 00:21:19,580 (wind howling) (wind howling)
475 00:21:19,580 00:21:21,757 Because beyond the sheer scale of the face Because beyond the sheer scale of the face
476 00:21:21,757 00:21:24,930 and the potential to get trapped by bad weather, and the potential to get trapped by bad weather,
477 00:21:24,930 00:21:28,181 there's another menace always present on this mountain. there's another menace always present on this mountain.
478 00:21:28,181 00:21:32,671 (wind howling) (gear rattling) (wind howling) (gear rattling)
479 00:21:32,671 00:21:35,750 (ice shattering) (men panting) (ice shattering) (men panting)
480 00:21:35,750 00:21:39,280 In late afternoon, when the sun hits the edge of the face, In late afternoon, when the sun hits the edge of the face,
481 00:21:39,280 00:21:41,058 the ice begins to melt. the ice begins to melt.
482 00:21:41,058 00:21:42,110 (wind howling) (wind howling)
483 00:21:42,110 00:21:43,950 Thousands of loose rocks frozen Thousands of loose rocks frozen
484 00:21:43,950 00:21:48,020 into the ice field over the years, start to work loose. into the ice field over the years, start to work loose.
485 00:21:48,020 00:21:51,484 And when they fall, they come down with incredible speed. And when they fall, they come down with incredible speed.
486 00:21:51,484 00:21:54,257 (intense music) (ice shattering) (intense music) (ice shattering)
487 00:21:54,257 00:21:55,090 (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music)
488 00:21:55,090 00:21:59,025 - You look up, thrum, thrum, thrum, vzz. - You look up, thrum, thrum, thrum, vzz.
489 00:21:59,025 00:21:59,858 Vzz, vzz, vzz. Vzz, vzz, vzz.
490 00:21:59,858 00:22:01,317 (rocks crashing) (intense music) (rocks crashing) (intense music)
491 00:22:01,317 00:22:02,490 Suddenly the size of half a brick Suddenly the size of half a brick
492 00:22:02,490 00:22:06,129 is falling 500 feet through the air, shooting past you. is falling 500 feet through the air, shooting past you.
493 00:22:06,129 00:22:08,099 (rocks crashing) (intense music) (rocks crashing) (intense music)
494 00:22:08,099 00:22:10,660 It hits with extraordinary velocity. It hits with extraordinary velocity.
495 00:22:10,660 00:22:12,550 It won't just break your arm. It won't just break your arm.
496 00:22:12,550 00:22:14,049 It'll will shatter the bone. It'll will shatter the bone.
497 00:22:14,049 00:22:16,594 (ice shattering) (speaking in foreign language) (ice shattering) (speaking in foreign language)
498 00:22:16,594 00:22:19,131 (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language)
499 00:22:19,131 00:22:20,433 - [Steven] The climbers had no helmets. - [Steven] The climbers had no helmets.
500 00:22:20,433 00:22:21,266 (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language)
501 00:22:21,266 00:22:22,983 Just simple felt hats. Just simple felt hats.
502 00:22:22,983 00:22:27,858 (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language)
503 00:22:27,858 00:22:29,180 But one by one that afternoon, But one by one that afternoon,
504 00:22:29,180 00:22:30,960 Toni Kurz and his friends took their turn Toni Kurz and his friends took their turn
505 00:22:30,960 00:22:34,338 to make the 300 foot dash up the first ice field. to make the 300 foot dash up the first ice field.
506 00:22:34,338 00:22:39,338 (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language)
507 00:22:50,948 00:22:55,948 (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music)
508 00:22:58,908 00:22:59,900 - [Toni] Willy! - [Toni] Willy!
509 00:22:59,900 00:23:02,249 - [Steven] Willy Angerer was the third to go. - [Steven] Willy Angerer was the third to go.
510 00:23:02,249 00:23:07,249 (rocks crashing) (gear rattling) (rocks crashing) (gear rattling)
511 00:23:14,092 00:23:19,092 (speaking in foreign language) (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) (rocks crashing)
512 00:23:25,364 00:23:27,760 - There was just a volley of stones - There was just a volley of stones
513 00:23:27,760 00:23:30,790 that just doof, doof, doof, doof, came all around them. that just doof, doof, doof, doof, came all around them.
514 00:23:30,790 00:23:34,302 And none of them were hit, and then, doof, Angerer was hit. And none of them were hit, and then, doof, Angerer was hit.
515 00:23:34,302 00:23:38,361 (rocks crashing) (intense music) (rocks crashing) (intense music)
516 00:23:38,361 00:23:41,060 In that one instance and that sickening sound In that one instance and that sickening sound
517 00:23:41,060 00:23:44,040 of somebody being smashed on the head by a stone, of somebody being smashed on the head by a stone,
518 00:23:44,040 00:23:46,161 everything would have been suspended for a sec. everything would have been suspended for a sec.
519 00:23:46,161 00:23:51,161 (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language)
520 00:23:53,199 00:23:56,449 It only takes one slip, one false move, It only takes one slip, one false move,
521 00:23:58,010 00:24:00,080 one single stone to come out of nowhere one single stone to come out of nowhere
522 00:24:01,180 00:24:03,310 and it becomes a completely different game and it becomes a completely different game
523 00:24:03,310 00:24:04,437 that you're playing. that you're playing.
524 00:24:04,437 00:24:06,950 (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language)
525 00:24:06,950 00:24:08,570 - [Steven] The climbers were more than halfway - [Steven] The climbers were more than halfway
526 00:24:08,570 00:24:09,993 to the summit of the Eiger. to the summit of the Eiger.
527 00:24:11,060 00:24:13,570 That morning, a great first ascent That morning, a great first ascent
528 00:24:13,570 00:24:15,186 had seemed within their grasp. had seemed within their grasp.
529 00:24:15,186 00:24:17,270 (speaking in foreign language) (wind howling) (speaking in foreign language) (wind howling)
530 00:24:17,270 00:24:20,480 But now Willy Angerer had some kind of head injury, But now Willy Angerer had some kind of head injury,
531 00:24:20,480 00:24:23,550 and the four friends faced the hardest of choices, and the four friends faced the hardest of choices,
532 00:24:23,550 00:24:25,286 whether to push onto the top. whether to push onto the top.
533 00:24:25,286 00:24:28,380 (wind howling) (speaking in foreign language) (wind howling) (speaking in foreign language)
534 00:24:28,380 00:24:30,137 Or turn back to safety. Or turn back to safety.
535 00:24:30,137 00:24:33,474 (eerie music) (wind howling) (eerie music) (wind howling)
536 00:24:33,474 00:24:38,474 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
537 00:24:40,160 00:24:42,380 After the shock of Angerer's accident, After the shock of Angerer's accident,
538 00:24:42,380 00:24:45,460 the four climbers roped themselves to ledge on the Eiger, the four climbers roped themselves to ledge on the Eiger,
539 00:24:45,460 00:24:46,838 and rested for night. and rested for night.
540 00:24:46,838 00:24:50,330 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
541 00:24:50,330 00:24:54,100 The next morning, witnesses saw them leave camp at 7:00 a.m. The next morning, witnesses saw them leave camp at 7:00 a.m.
542 00:24:54,100 00:24:55,940 (intense music) (chattering) (intense music) (chattering)
543 00:24:55,940 00:24:57,908 Everyone expected them to start down. Everyone expected them to start down.
544 00:24:57,908 00:24:59,160 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
545 00:24:59,160 00:25:01,668 But instead, they began to climb again. But instead, they began to climb again.
546 00:25:01,668 00:25:06,668 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
547 00:25:07,080 00:25:10,605 They were halfway up a mountain no one had climbed before. They were halfway up a mountain no one had climbed before.
548 00:25:10,605 00:25:12,797 And that was a prize they would not give up lightly. And that was a prize they would not give up lightly.
549 00:25:12,797 00:25:15,102 (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language)
550 00:25:15,102 00:25:20,102 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
551 00:25:20,284 00:25:21,260 The men had reached the point The men had reached the point
552 00:25:21,260 00:25:23,190 where the 1,800 foot wide expanse where the 1,800 foot wide expanse
553 00:25:23,190 00:25:27,023 of the second ice field stretches out across the north face. of the second ice field stretches out across the north face.
554 00:25:27,023 00:25:32,023 (intense music) (chopper droning) (intense music) (chopper droning)
555 00:25:35,930 00:25:39,433 The ice field is 3,000 vertical feet above the valley. The ice field is 3,000 vertical feet above the valley.
556 00:25:39,433 00:25:40,810 (intense music) (chopper droning) (intense music) (chopper droning)
557 00:25:40,810 00:25:42,563 But the skills of the local air rescue team But the skills of the local air rescue team
558 00:25:42,563 00:25:45,928 mean Joe can be dropped onto the ice field by a helicopter. mean Joe can be dropped onto the ice field by a helicopter.
559 00:25:45,928 00:25:46,761 (intense music) (chopper droning) (intense music) (chopper droning)
560 00:25:46,761 00:25:48,810 The pilot will fly close enough to the mountain The pilot will fly close enough to the mountain
561 00:25:48,810 00:25:52,520 to winch him down to a ledge that is barely two feet wide. to winch him down to a ledge that is barely two feet wide.
562 00:25:52,520 00:25:56,800 (intense music) (chopper droning) (intense music) (chopper droning)
563 00:25:56,800 00:26:00,020 At this point, Joe will be able to retrace Kurz's progress At this point, Joe will be able to retrace Kurz's progress
564 00:26:00,020 00:26:02,013 on the second day of his climb. on the second day of his climb.
565 00:26:02,013 00:26:04,752 (chopper droning) (chopper droning)
566 00:26:04,752 00:26:09,752 (wind howling) (gear rattling) (wind howling) (gear rattling)
567 00:26:13,860 00:26:16,061 - They must have felt pretty good when they got here. - They must have felt pretty good when they got here.
568 00:26:16,061 00:26:18,781 (wind howling) (gear rattling) (wind howling) (gear rattling)
569 00:26:18,781 00:26:21,773 All the main features the face are now apparent. All the main features the face are now apparent.
570 00:26:21,773 00:26:26,397 You can see the ramp, half of the second ice field. You can see the ramp, half of the second ice field.
571 00:26:28,500 00:26:29,450 They know from here They know from here
572 00:26:31,020 00:26:33,860 they should have no problem getting to they should have no problem getting to
573 00:26:36,243 00:26:40,730 Sedlmayer and Mehringer's high spot of the year before Sedlmayer and Mehringer's high spot of the year before
574 00:26:40,730 00:26:41,929 to Death Bivouac. to Death Bivouac.
575 00:26:41,929 00:26:46,929 (wind howling) (Joe panting) (wind howling) (Joe panting)
576 00:26:47,090 00:26:48,840 - [Steven] The second ice field is an exposed - [Steven] The second ice field is an exposed
577 00:26:48,840 00:26:50,309 and dangerous place. and dangerous place.
578 00:26:50,309 00:26:55,309 (intense music) (ice crunching) (intense music) (ice crunching)
579 00:26:58,586 00:27:00,820 Hinterstoisser and Kurz knew it was ground they needed Hinterstoisser and Kurz knew it was ground they needed
580 00:27:00,820 00:27:02,878 to cover as fast as possible. to cover as fast as possible.
581 00:27:02,878 00:27:04,870 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
582 00:27:04,870 00:27:06,490 But as the morning wore on, But as the morning wore on,
583 00:27:06,490 00:27:08,490 it became clear they had a problem. it became clear they had a problem.
584 00:27:08,490 00:27:09,780 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
585 00:27:09,780 00:27:13,067 The injured Willie Angerer was getting slower by the hour. The injured Willie Angerer was getting slower by the hour.
586 00:27:13,067 00:27:14,390 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
587 00:27:14,390 00:27:16,830 - Inside they would be thinking, get a move on. - Inside they would be thinking, get a move on.
588 00:27:16,830 00:27:18,135 Get a move on. Get a move on.
589 00:27:18,135 00:27:19,430 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
590 00:27:19,430 00:27:22,620 And by the same degree, Angerer would've know And by the same degree, Angerer would've know
591 00:27:22,620 00:27:24,308 that he's not moving fast enough. that he's not moving fast enough.
592 00:27:24,308 00:27:25,546 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
593 00:27:25,546 00:27:27,710 It's like you're trying to get to the most important meeting It's like you're trying to get to the most important meeting
594 00:27:27,710 00:27:30,210 in your life and you're stuck in a traffic jam in your life and you're stuck in a traffic jam
595 00:27:30,210 00:27:32,306 in the worst possible place. in the worst possible place.
596 00:27:32,306 00:27:36,310 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
597 00:27:36,310 00:27:39,350 They still had half the height of the face to go. They still had half the height of the face to go.
598 00:27:39,350 00:27:41,640 3,000 feet above them. 3,000 feet above them.
599 00:27:41,640 00:27:43,200 That's vertical height, That's vertical height,
600 00:27:43,200 00:27:45,310 they probably had about 8,000 feet they probably had about 8,000 feet
601 00:27:45,310 00:27:47,005 in total distance to climb. in total distance to climb.
602 00:27:47,005 00:27:48,900 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
603 00:27:48,900 00:27:50,220 - [Steven] The four men would have expected - [Steven] The four men would have expected
604 00:27:50,220 00:27:53,533 to cross the second ice field in five or six hours. to cross the second ice field in five or six hours.
605 00:27:53,533 00:27:54,366 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
606 00:27:54,366 00:27:55,380 But by the end of the day, But by the end of the day,
607 00:27:55,380 00:27:58,259 they were still making their slow traverse across it. they were still making their slow traverse across it.
608 00:27:58,259 00:27:59,490 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
609 00:27:59,490 00:28:02,520 That evening, they made another camp on the ice. That evening, they made another camp on the ice.
610 00:28:02,520 00:28:04,459 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
611 00:28:04,459 00:28:06,020 (speaking in foreign language) (speaking in foreign language)
612 00:28:06,020 00:28:08,300 Each of them knew the dangers of moving too slowly Each of them knew the dangers of moving too slowly
613 00:28:08,300 00:28:09,770 on this mountain. on this mountain.
614 00:28:09,770 00:28:12,067 The risk of getting trapped by bad weather. The risk of getting trapped by bad weather.
615 00:28:12,067 00:28:13,110 (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music)
616 00:28:13,110 00:28:16,025 It was what had killed the first two climbers to attempt it. It was what had killed the first two climbers to attempt it.
617 00:28:16,025 00:28:19,524 (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music)
618 00:28:19,524 00:28:21,980 - I could imagine what it must have felt like - I could imagine what it must have felt like
619 00:28:21,980 00:28:25,225 to be Kurz or Hinterstoisser, the uninjured pair. to be Kurz or Hinterstoisser, the uninjured pair.
620 00:28:25,225 00:28:27,290 (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music)
621 00:28:27,290 00:28:29,950 I would have been thinking, this isn't gonna work. I would have been thinking, this isn't gonna work.
622 00:28:29,950 00:28:32,900 We cannot climb this at this speed. We cannot climb this at this speed.
623 00:28:32,900 00:28:36,073 We probably have the hardest climbing ahead of us. We probably have the hardest climbing ahead of us.
624 00:28:36,073 00:28:40,460 (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music)
625 00:28:40,460 00:28:42,810 And maybe in some whispered conversation with my partner, And maybe in some whispered conversation with my partner,
626 00:28:42,810 00:28:44,807 I'd say, "Look, do you think those two I'd say, "Look, do you think those two
627 00:28:44,807 00:28:46,087 "can get down on their own? "can get down on their own?
628 00:28:46,087 00:28:47,953 "Because we can go on as a pair." "Because we can go on as a pair."
629 00:28:47,953 00:28:49,721 (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language)
630 00:28:49,721 00:28:53,667 And I think Angerer and Rainer couldn't fail And I think Angerer and Rainer couldn't fail
631 00:28:54,560 00:28:57,508 to have been aware that things have changed. to have been aware that things have changed.
632 00:28:57,508 00:28:59,700 (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language)
633 00:28:59,700 00:29:01,898 You have to add something else into this. You have to add something else into this.
634 00:29:01,898 00:29:03,840 (intense music) (rocks crashing) (intense music) (rocks crashing)
635 00:29:03,840 00:29:05,450 This is where Sedlmayer and Mehringer This is where Sedlmayer and Mehringer
636 00:29:05,450 00:29:06,956 had died the year before. had died the year before.
637 00:29:06,956 00:29:11,487 (intense music) (rocks crashing) (intense music) (rocks crashing)
638 00:29:11,487 00:29:14,470 Sedlmayer was frozen into the snow, Sedlmayer was frozen into the snow,
639 00:29:14,470 00:29:15,580 probably less than a rope length probably less than a rope length
640 00:29:15,580 00:29:17,498 from where they were sitting that night. from where they were sitting that night.
641 00:29:17,498 00:29:22,498 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
642 00:29:23,270 00:29:26,943 You'd like to think, as a young man, you control the odds, You'd like to think, as a young man, you control the odds,
643 00:29:28,180 00:29:30,770 by your judgment and by your skill, by your judgment and by your skill,
644 00:29:30,770 00:29:33,943 and that sort of gives you your sense of invulnerability. and that sort of gives you your sense of invulnerability.
645 00:29:34,830 00:29:36,925 And it's not exactly true. And it's not exactly true.
646 00:29:36,925 00:29:39,425 (eerie music) (eerie music)
647 00:29:40,390 00:29:42,570 - [Steven] Joe was just two years older than Kurz - [Steven] Joe was just two years older than Kurz
648 00:29:42,570 00:29:45,166 when something happened that changed his life. when something happened that changed his life.
649 00:29:45,166 00:29:47,666 (eerie music) (eerie music)
650 00:29:50,330 00:29:52,630 He was 25, climbing in Peru He was 25, climbing in Peru
651 00:29:53,777 00:29:55,935 when he broke his leg in a split second fall. when he broke his leg in a split second fall.
652 00:29:55,935 00:29:58,435 (eerie music) (eerie music)
653 00:29:59,300 00:30:00,880 His climbing partner, Simon, His climbing partner, Simon,
654 00:30:00,880 00:30:03,170 tried to lower him down the mountain. tried to lower him down the mountain.
655 00:30:03,170 00:30:06,975 But in the darkness, Joe slid over the edge of an ice cliff. But in the darkness, Joe slid over the edge of an ice cliff.
656 00:30:06,975 00:30:07,890 (eerie music) (eerie music)
657 00:30:07,890 00:30:11,757 And he was trapped hanging in space above a precipice. And he was trapped hanging in space above a precipice.
658 00:30:11,757 00:30:14,120 (eerie music) (eerie music)
659 00:30:14,120 00:30:17,325 To save himself, Simon was forced to cut the rope. To save himself, Simon was forced to cut the rope.
660 00:30:17,325 00:30:20,290 (eerie music) (eerie music)
661 00:30:20,290 00:30:22,995 Joe fell 150 feet into a crevasse. Joe fell 150 feet into a crevasse.
662 00:30:22,995 00:30:24,200 (eerie music) (eerie music)
663 00:30:24,200 00:30:27,270 Then for four days, he crawled to safety Then for four days, he crawled to safety
664 00:30:27,270 00:30:29,104 with a badly shattered leg. with a badly shattered leg.
665 00:30:29,104 00:30:31,800 (eerie music) (eerie music)
666 00:30:31,800 00:30:33,860 - When I got back to England, - When I got back to England,
667 00:30:33,860 00:30:36,403 I had six operations on my knee. I had six operations on my knee.
668 00:30:37,270 00:30:39,360 I was in plaster for nine months. I was in plaster for nine months.
669 00:30:39,360 00:30:41,298 I was on crutches for 12 months. I was on crutches for 12 months.
670 00:30:41,298 00:30:44,018 (placid music) (train rattling) (placid music) (train rattling)
671 00:30:44,018 00:30:46,357 And as I was discharged, the consultant told me, And as I was discharged, the consultant told me,
672 00:30:46,357 00:30:48,017 "You'll never walk without a limb." "You'll never walk without a limb."
673 00:30:48,017 00:30:49,447 (placid music) (train rattling) (placid music) (train rattling)
674 00:30:49,447 00:30:50,826 "And you'll never climb again." "And you'll never climb again."
675 00:30:50,826 00:30:53,770 (placid music) (train rattling) (placid music) (train rattling)
676 00:30:53,770 00:30:57,279 I don't think he really understood what he was saying to me. I don't think he really understood what he was saying to me.
677 00:30:57,279 00:30:58,520 (placid music) (placid music)
678 00:30:58,520 00:31:00,616 Climbing was my whole life. Climbing was my whole life.
679 00:31:00,616 00:31:01,480 (placid music) (placid music)
680 00:31:01,480 00:31:02,710 It was a passion. It was a passion.
681 00:31:02,710 00:31:03,770 (placid music) (placid music)
682 00:31:03,770 00:31:08,060 And I remember sitting on the bed, looking at my legs, And I remember sitting on the bed, looking at my legs,
683 00:31:08,060 00:31:12,534 and just crying because this guy was telling me it was over. and just crying because this guy was telling me it was over.
684 00:31:12,534 00:31:15,201 (placid music) (placid music)
685 00:31:21,690 00:31:23,360 So, I'd go down to the local swimming pool So, I'd go down to the local swimming pool
686 00:31:23,360 00:31:24,926 and just swim and swim. and just swim and swim.
687 00:31:24,926 00:31:27,670 (placid music) (placid music)
688 00:31:27,670 00:31:28,503 Eventually, I got to a point Eventually, I got to a point
689 00:31:28,503 00:31:29,920 where I was going five days a week, where I was going five days a week,
690 00:31:29,920 00:31:31,914 and I started getting fitter and fitter and fitter. and I started getting fitter and fitter and fitter.
691 00:31:31,914 00:31:34,250 (placid music) (placid music)
692 00:31:34,250 00:31:37,223 It was a long, hard rehabilitation. It was a long, hard rehabilitation.
693 00:31:37,223 00:31:38,730 (placid music) (placid music)
694 00:31:38,730 00:31:42,302 But it was enough, in the end, to start climbing again. But it was enough, in the end, to start climbing again.
695 00:31:42,302 00:31:44,969 (placid music) (placid music)
696 00:31:49,240 00:31:51,671 I should have been pretty much set up and happy, I should have been pretty much set up and happy,
697 00:31:51,671 00:31:54,340 and I wasn't really. and I wasn't really.
698 00:31:54,340 00:31:56,390 (placid music) (placid music)
699 00:31:56,390 00:31:57,688 Something changed. Something changed.
700 00:31:57,688 00:31:59,730 (placid music) (placid music)
701 00:31:59,730 00:32:01,858 Something inside has been damaged. Something inside has been damaged.
702 00:32:01,858 00:32:04,441 (placid music) (placid music)
703 00:32:06,538 00:32:09,205 (wind howling) (wind howling)
704 00:32:15,810 00:32:18,530 - [Steven] On the morning of July the 20th, 1936, - [Steven] On the morning of July the 20th, 1936,
705 00:32:18,530 00:32:20,760 witnesses in the valley saw something odd happen witnesses in the valley saw something odd happen
706 00:32:20,760 00:32:22,078 among the four climbers. among the four climbers.
707 00:32:22,078 00:32:23,300 (chattering) (chattering)
708 00:32:23,300 00:32:25,470 As they left their camp on the ice, As they left their camp on the ice,
709 00:32:25,470 00:32:29,200 two of them pushed ahead, climbing fast towards the summit. two of them pushed ahead, climbing fast towards the summit.
710 00:32:29,200 00:32:30,700 (intense music) (ice crunching) (intense music) (ice crunching)
711 00:32:30,700 00:32:33,828 It was Andreas Hinterstoisser and Toni Kurz. It was Andreas Hinterstoisser and Toni Kurz.
712 00:32:33,828 00:32:36,510 (intense music) (ice crunching) (intense music) (ice crunching)
713 00:32:36,510 00:32:38,933 - These two wanted to do the climb. - These two wanted to do the climb.
714 00:32:39,860 00:32:43,508 They could actually see the path ahead to the summit. They could actually see the path ahead to the summit.
715 00:32:43,508 00:32:44,730 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
716 00:32:44,730 00:32:46,140 They know that Angerer is injured, They know that Angerer is injured,
717 00:32:46,140 00:32:47,650 but they would have been hoping but they would have been hoping
718 00:32:47,650 00:32:50,840 that if they just a bullish, aggressive, go for it, that if they just a bullish, aggressive, go for it,
719 00:32:50,840 00:32:53,458 come on, lads, do it, they'll come with them. come on, lads, do it, they'll come with them.
720 00:32:53,458 00:32:58,458 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
721 00:33:00,715 00:33:04,150 (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling)
722 00:33:04,150 00:33:06,314 And then they were stopped dead in their tracks. And then they were stopped dead in their tracks.
723 00:33:06,314 00:33:08,440 (Willy panting) (wind howling) (Willy panting) (wind howling)
724 00:33:08,440 00:33:09,420 It would have become apparent, It would have become apparent,
725 00:33:09,420 00:33:11,880 as soon as they started climbing, as soon as they started climbing,
726 00:33:11,880 00:33:14,707 that Angerer wasn't as well as they thought. that Angerer wasn't as well as they thought.
727 00:33:14,707 00:33:19,707 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
728 00:33:23,723 00:33:28,723 God, the disappointment, shit, damn, damn. God, the disappointment, shit, damn, damn.
729 00:33:28,860 00:33:31,433 We could have climbed it, we could have climbed it. We could have climbed it, we could have climbed it.
730 00:33:31,433 00:33:32,450 (wind howling) (wind howling)
731 00:33:32,450 00:33:33,734 The dream had gone. The dream had gone.
732 00:33:33,734 00:33:37,020 (wind howling) (gear rattling) (wind howling) (gear rattling)
733 00:33:37,020 00:33:38,983 And then, everything changed. And then, everything changed.
734 00:33:40,240 00:33:44,542 The task they had now is to save another man. The task they had now is to save another man.
735 00:33:44,542 00:33:45,700 (intense music) (intense music)
736 00:33:45,700 00:33:48,223 - [Steven] To retreat now meant reversing their tracks - [Steven] To retreat now meant reversing their tracks
737 00:33:48,223 00:33:51,200 1,800 feet across the second ice field, 1,800 feet across the second ice field,
738 00:33:51,200 00:33:55,142 then 3,000 feet down to the safety of the valley below. then 3,000 feet down to the safety of the valley below.
739 00:33:55,142 00:33:56,730 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
740 00:33:56,730 00:33:59,670 But this time, they had an injured man But this time, they had an injured man
741 00:33:59,670 00:34:01,582 who was clearly deteriorating. who was clearly deteriorating.
742 00:34:01,582 00:34:06,340 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
743 00:34:06,340 00:34:08,131 They began the descent at midday. They began the descent at midday.
744 00:34:08,131 00:34:08,964 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
745 00:34:08,964 00:34:10,220 It took the most of the afternoon It took the most of the afternoon
746 00:34:10,220 00:34:13,243 to make their way back across the second ice field. to make their way back across the second ice field.
747 00:34:13,243 00:34:15,850 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
748 00:34:15,850 00:34:19,123 To make matters worse, in the valley below To make matters worse, in the valley below
749 00:34:19,123 00:34:22,664 were the first telltale signs of bad weather approaching. were the first telltale signs of bad weather approaching.
750 00:34:22,664 00:34:27,664 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
751 00:34:33,823 00:34:38,823 (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling)
752 00:34:40,550 00:34:43,060 - It was as if they want were on balance - It was as if they want were on balance
753 00:34:43,060 00:34:46,540 of excitement and adventure and anticipation on the one side of excitement and adventure and anticipation on the one side
754 00:34:48,494 00:34:52,100 and tipping in to losing control and failure. and tipping in to losing control and failure.
755 00:34:52,100 00:34:54,584 And it's at that point that everything tipped. And it's at that point that everything tipped.
756 00:34:54,584 00:34:59,584 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
757 00:35:02,166 00:35:07,166 (fire whooshing) (placid music) (fire whooshing) (placid music)
758 00:35:08,770 00:35:10,180 - [Steven] At 8:30 that night, - [Steven] At 8:30 that night,
759 00:35:10,180 00:35:12,280 the climbers stopped to rest. the climbers stopped to rest.
760 00:35:12,280 00:35:14,417 It was their third night on the north face, It was their third night on the north face,
761 00:35:14,417 00:35:17,304 and they were back at the halfway point of the climb. and they were back at the halfway point of the climb.
762 00:35:17,304 00:35:20,110 (fire whooshing) (placid music) (fire whooshing) (placid music)
763 00:35:20,110 00:35:22,410 The following day, their retreat would bring them The following day, their retreat would bring them
764 00:35:22,410 00:35:25,794 to the 100 foot rock barrier, the traverse. to the 100 foot rock barrier, the traverse.
765 00:35:25,794 00:35:30,794 (fire whooshing) (placid music) (fire whooshing) (placid music)
766 00:35:31,520 00:35:34,440 - [Joe] Hinterstoisser of all people knew - [Joe] Hinterstoisser of all people knew
767 00:35:34,440 00:35:39,090 how difficult it had been to climb across the traverse, how difficult it had been to climb across the traverse,
768 00:35:39,090 00:35:41,104 he'd done it in dry conditions. he'd done it in dry conditions.
769 00:35:41,104 00:35:42,650 (fire whooshing) (placid music) (fire whooshing) (placid music)
770 00:35:42,650 00:35:45,560 And I'm sure it must have been going through his mind. And I'm sure it must have been going through his mind.
771 00:35:45,560 00:35:48,155 We've got 3,000 feet to descent, We've got 3,000 feet to descent,
772 00:35:48,155 00:35:49,863 but we've got one crux thing. but we've got one crux thing.
773 00:35:51,150 00:35:54,864 First, we have to get back across the traverse. First, we have to get back across the traverse.
774 00:35:54,864 00:35:59,864 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
775 00:36:01,532 00:36:06,532 (thunder droning) (wind howling) (thunder droning) (wind howling)
776 00:36:10,230 00:36:12,530 - [Steven] By the morning of the fourth day, - [Steven] By the morning of the fourth day,
777 00:36:12,530 00:36:14,854 the mountain was enveloped in cloud. the mountain was enveloped in cloud.
778 00:36:14,854 00:36:16,000 (gear rattling) (gear rattling)
779 00:36:16,000 00:36:17,620 The temperature was dropping, The temperature was dropping,
780 00:36:17,620 00:36:20,170 and water was beginning to pour down the face, and water was beginning to pour down the face,
781 00:36:20,170 00:36:22,992 freezing in places to the rock around them. freezing in places to the rock around them.
782 00:36:22,992 00:36:23,890 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
783 00:36:23,890 00:36:26,610 The men left the bivouac around 7:00 a.m, The men left the bivouac around 7:00 a.m,
784 00:36:26,610 00:36:28,871 but Angerer's condition appear to be worsening. but Angerer's condition appear to be worsening.
785 00:36:28,871 00:36:31,030 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
786 00:36:31,030 00:36:33,240 Their descent of the first ice field that morning Their descent of the first ice field that morning
787 00:36:33,240 00:36:34,800 was painfully slow. was painfully slow.
788 00:36:34,800 00:36:38,860 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
789 00:36:38,860 00:36:40,320 The seriousness of their position The seriousness of their position
790 00:36:40,320 00:36:41,972 would now have struck all of them. would now have struck all of them.
791 00:36:41,972 00:36:42,805 (intense music) (intense music)
792 00:36:42,805 00:36:44,480 They couldn't climb up to safety, They couldn't climb up to safety,
793 00:36:44,480 00:36:46,510 and they couldn't climb down. and they couldn't climb down.
794 00:36:46,510 00:36:50,330 below them was a 700 foot abyss. below them was a 700 foot abyss.
795 00:36:50,330 00:36:53,500 They knew if they couldn't get back across the traverse, They knew if they couldn't get back across the traverse,
796 00:36:53,500 00:36:54,770 they were trapped. they were trapped.
797 00:36:54,770 00:36:57,100 (intense music) (intense music)
798 00:36:57,100 00:36:58,760 What they didn't know What they didn't know
799 00:36:58,760 00:37:01,110 was what Hinterstoisser had done the first time was what Hinterstoisser had done the first time
800 00:37:01,960 00:37:03,849 wasn't possible in reverse. wasn't possible in reverse.
801 00:37:03,849 00:37:08,849 (intense music) (Joe panting) (intense music) (Joe panting)
802 00:37:11,300 00:37:13,763 - This is about plum center of the Hinterstoisser. - This is about plum center of the Hinterstoisser.
803 00:37:15,200 00:37:17,900 To come across, Hinterstoisser put the high peg in To come across, Hinterstoisser put the high peg in
804 00:37:17,900 00:37:19,740 and clipped his rope in it. and clipped his rope in it.
805 00:37:19,740 00:37:22,930 And so, he had his rope running down to him under tension. And so, he had his rope running down to him under tension.
806 00:37:22,930 00:37:26,260 And he could have lent with his friends, And he could have lent with his friends,
807 00:37:26,260 00:37:29,520 tensioning him across, across this blank bit. tensioning him across, across this blank bit.
808 00:37:29,520 00:37:31,550 And then, they'd pull the ropes back. And then, they'd pull the ropes back.
809 00:37:31,550 00:37:33,450 To come back, he couldn't get any tension. To come back, he couldn't get any tension.
810 00:37:33,450 00:37:37,370 He didn't have any high pitons above us. He didn't have any high pitons above us.
811 00:37:37,370 00:37:39,320 And you can just see this section here. And you can just see this section here.
812 00:37:41,597 00:37:44,810 15, 20 feet is absolutely ice worn smooth, 15, 20 feet is absolutely ice worn smooth,
813 00:37:44,810 00:37:47,150 there aren't downward facing ledges, there aren't downward facing ledges,
814 00:37:47,150 00:37:49,165 which are tricky enough in these conditions. which are tricky enough in these conditions.
815 00:37:49,165 00:37:50,210 (wind howling) (rocks crashing) (wind howling) (rocks crashing)
816 00:37:50,210 00:37:52,350 But if this was ice glazed, But if this was ice glazed,
817 00:37:52,350 00:37:54,099 it would have been absolutely desperate. it would have been absolutely desperate.
818 00:37:54,099 00:37:56,521 (wind howling) (rocks crashing) (wind howling) (rocks crashing)
819 00:37:56,521 00:37:58,950 (intense music) (intense music)
820 00:37:58,950 00:37:59,932 - [Steven] And it was. - [Steven] And it was.
821 00:37:59,932 00:38:01,330 (intense music) (intense music)
822 00:38:01,330 00:38:04,788 The glass smooth rock of the traverse was now wet. The glass smooth rock of the traverse was now wet.
823 00:38:04,788 00:38:05,621 (speaking in foreign language) (speaking in foreign language)
824 00:38:05,621 00:38:08,034 And streaked with black ice. And streaked with black ice.
825 00:38:08,034 00:38:13,034 (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music)
826 00:38:17,369 00:38:22,369 (Andreas grunting) (intense music) (Andreas grunting) (intense music)
827 00:38:27,490 00:38:29,880 - Everything would have compressed - Everything would have compressed
828 00:38:29,880 00:38:31,578 into the small movement to time. into the small movement to time.
829 00:38:31,578 00:38:36,578 (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language)
830 00:38:36,700 00:38:38,750 Every fiber in his body would be concentrating Every fiber in his body would be concentrating
831 00:38:38,750 00:38:40,919 on every tiny move. on every tiny move.
832 00:38:40,919 00:38:44,790 (intense music) (rock grinding) (intense music) (rock grinding)
833 00:38:44,790 00:38:49,090 This is their best climber, trying for all he was worth This is their best climber, trying for all he was worth
834 00:38:49,090 00:38:50,830 to get back across the very thing to get back across the very thing
835 00:38:50,830 00:38:52,809 that he brilliantly unlocked. that he brilliantly unlocked.
836 00:38:52,809 00:38:57,809 (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music)
837 00:39:04,387 00:39:08,198 He spent almost five hours trying to cross this travers. He spent almost five hours trying to cross this travers.
838 00:39:08,198 00:39:10,727 (intense music) (Andreas yelling) (intense music) (Andreas yelling)
839 00:39:10,727 00:39:13,260 (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music)
840 00:39:13,260 00:39:15,560 I reckon virtually where I'm standing now I reckon virtually where I'm standing now
841 00:39:16,700 00:39:21,210 is where Hinterstoisser would have repeatedly fallen off, is where Hinterstoisser would have repeatedly fallen off,
842 00:39:21,210 00:39:24,426 desperately just trying to climb this section. desperately just trying to climb this section.
843 00:39:24,426 00:39:29,426 (speaking in foreign language) (wind howling) (speaking in foreign language) (wind howling)
844 00:39:31,260 00:39:35,042 There is that moment when activity stops. There is that moment when activity stops.
845 00:39:35,042 00:39:40,012 (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music)
846 00:39:40,012 00:39:42,074 You just know you can't do this. You just know you can't do this.
847 00:39:42,074 00:39:43,720 (intense music) (intense music)
848 00:39:43,720 00:39:47,033 And you have to accept that it's over. And you have to accept that it's over.
849 00:39:47,033 00:39:52,033 (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language)
850 00:39:57,623 00:40:00,480 And it would have gradually been dawning on all of them And it would have gradually been dawning on all of them
851 00:40:01,656 00:40:03,450 that this could be a fatal error that this could be a fatal error
852 00:40:03,450 00:40:05,694 that they hadn't left a rope across. that they hadn't left a rope across.
853 00:40:05,694 00:40:10,270 (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music)
854 00:40:10,270 00:40:12,459 They couldn't cross the traverse, it was unclothed. They couldn't cross the traverse, it was unclothed.
855 00:40:12,459 00:40:14,660 (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music)
856 00:40:14,660 00:40:17,697 But if they stayed where they were, they were going to die. But if they stayed where they were, they were going to die.
857 00:40:17,697 00:40:21,820 (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language)
858 00:40:21,820 00:40:23,720 The very piece of brilliance The very piece of brilliance
859 00:40:23,720 00:40:28,469 that had unlocked the heart of the face had trapped them. that had unlocked the heart of the face had trapped them.
860 00:40:28,469 00:40:33,469 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
861 00:40:36,310 00:40:39,130 As a storm comes into the face, As a storm comes into the face,
862 00:40:39,130 00:40:41,633 you can sense it as much as see it. you can sense it as much as see it.
863 00:40:41,633 00:40:43,242 (thunder droning) (wind howling) (thunder droning) (wind howling)
864 00:40:43,242 00:40:46,340 There's this horrible sense of expectancy, There's this horrible sense of expectancy,
865 00:40:46,340 00:40:48,710 the hair on the back of the head starts to rise the hair on the back of the head starts to rise
866 00:40:48,710 00:40:50,850 and you become incredibly aware and you become incredibly aware
867 00:40:50,850 00:40:52,934 that it's about to happen, it's about happen. that it's about to happen, it's about happen.
868 00:40:52,934 00:40:55,020 (thunder droning) (wind howling) (thunder droning) (wind howling)
869 00:40:55,020 00:40:56,935 And then, all hell is let loose. And then, all hell is let loose.
870 00:40:56,935 00:40:59,768 (wind screeching) (wind screeching)
871 00:41:07,146 00:41:07,979 - [Steven] The storm hit the Eiger - [Steven] The storm hit the Eiger
872 00:41:07,979 00:41:10,223 on the climbers' fourth day on the north face. on the climbers' fourth day on the north face.
873 00:41:11,640 00:41:13,020 For the watches in the valley, For the watches in the valley,
874 00:41:13,020 00:41:15,683 it was an unsettling reminder of the previous year. it was an unsettling reminder of the previous year.
875 00:41:15,683 00:41:16,516 (chattering) (chattering)
876 00:41:16,516 00:41:19,030 Just like the first two climbers to attempt it, Just like the first two climbers to attempt it,
877 00:41:19,030 00:41:22,306 Kurz and the others had simply disappeared behind the cloud. Kurz and the others had simply disappeared behind the cloud.
878 00:41:22,306 00:41:24,920 (wind howling) (wind howling)
879 00:41:24,920 00:41:27,210 Trapped halfway up the mountain, Trapped halfway up the mountain,
880 00:41:27,210 00:41:30,500 the climbers now knew they couldn't climb up to safety the climbers now knew they couldn't climb up to safety
881 00:41:30,500 00:41:32,263 or back across the traverse. or back across the traverse.
882 00:41:33,386 00:41:34,533 It would gradually have dawned on all of them It would gradually have dawned on all of them
883 00:41:34,533 00:41:37,090 that there was only one option left, that there was only one option left,
884 00:41:37,090 00:41:39,546 to descend the vertical ground below them. to descend the vertical ground below them.
885 00:41:39,546 00:41:43,350 (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music)
886 00:41:43,350 00:41:45,826 - I imagine they don't even wanna contemplating it. - I imagine they don't even wanna contemplating it.
887 00:41:45,826 00:41:46,659 (intense music) (intense music)
888 00:41:46,659 00:41:48,786 They were still 3,000 feet above the valley. They were still 3,000 feet above the valley.
889 00:41:48,786 00:41:49,619 (intense music) (intense music)
890 00:41:49,619 00:41:52,180 They stay where they are, Angerer will certainly die, They stay where they are, Angerer will certainly die,
891 00:41:53,040 00:41:54,010 but they're not gonna survive but they're not gonna survive
892 00:41:54,010 00:41:55,680 in these conditions much longer. in these conditions much longer.
893 00:41:55,680 00:41:58,210 Another night on the face, exhausted, Another night on the face, exhausted,
894 00:41:58,210 00:41:59,890 they're not gonna last. they're not gonna last.
895 00:41:59,890 00:42:03,800 Below them, they have ground dropping away steeply, Below them, they have ground dropping away steeply,
896 00:42:03,800 00:42:06,030 ice covered rocks getting steeper and steeper ice covered rocks getting steeper and steeper
897 00:42:06,030 00:42:08,870 until eventually they knew there was a rock barrier until eventually they knew there was a rock barrier
898 00:42:08,870 00:42:12,360 some 200 feet high, vertical and overhanging. some 200 feet high, vertical and overhanging.
899 00:42:12,360 00:42:14,840 If they get down and it's a big earth, If they get down and it's a big earth,
900 00:42:14,840 00:42:18,645 there is a ledge system that runs across the face. there is a ledge system that runs across the face.
901 00:42:18,645 00:42:19,640 (intense music) (intense music)
902 00:42:19,640 00:42:22,020 - [Steven] This ledge system led to a small door - [Steven] This ledge system led to a small door
903 00:42:22,020 00:42:25,093 drilled through the mountain wall into the railway tunnel. drilled through the mountain wall into the railway tunnel.
904 00:42:25,960 00:42:27,690 It was the same door that Joe used It was the same door that Joe used
905 00:42:27,690 00:42:29,471 as a shortcut onto the face. as a shortcut onto the face.
906 00:42:29,471 00:42:30,650 (intense music) (intense music)
907 00:42:30,650 00:42:33,233 (wind howling) (wind howling)
908 00:42:34,350 00:42:36,640 - Everything that's been happening since that day - Everything that's been happening since that day
909 00:42:36,640 00:42:38,563 is limiting their options. is limiting their options.
910 00:42:38,563 00:42:40,550 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
911 00:42:40,550 00:42:43,523 They had a barely conscious man to try and bring down. They had a barely conscious man to try and bring down.
912 00:42:43,523 00:42:46,283 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
913 00:42:46,283 00:42:47,583 And to make matters worse, And to make matters worse,
914 00:42:48,540 00:42:51,920 their line of descent led them directly their line of descent led them directly
915 00:42:51,920 00:42:54,140 to the stones and the avalanches to the stones and the avalanches
916 00:42:54,140 00:42:55,850 that were hurtling down from above. that were hurtling down from above.
917 00:42:55,850 00:42:57,391 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
918 00:42:57,391 00:42:59,870 To step out into the face of those avalanches To step out into the face of those avalanches
919 00:42:59,870 00:43:01,863 would have seemed suicidal. would have seemed suicidal.
920 00:43:01,863 00:43:03,800 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
921 00:43:03,800 00:43:04,976 But there's no other choice. But there's no other choice.
922 00:43:04,976 00:43:09,976 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
923 00:43:25,631 00:43:29,091 This is pretty much their abseil line of descent. This is pretty much their abseil line of descent.
924 00:43:29,091 00:43:32,230 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
925 00:43:32,230 00:43:34,670 This really would have been an awful place This really would have been an awful place
926 00:43:34,670 00:43:36,579 to start trying to get down. to start trying to get down.
927 00:43:36,579 00:43:38,470 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
928 00:43:38,470 00:43:40,063 I've got good visibility today. I've got good visibility today.
929 00:43:40,910 00:43:42,711 And I wouldn't like to be going down here. And I wouldn't like to be going down here.
930 00:43:42,711 00:43:44,860 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
931 00:43:44,860 00:43:46,080 In the teeth of a storm, In the teeth of a storm,
932 00:43:46,080 00:43:48,081 they wouldn't be able to see very far at all. they wouldn't be able to see very far at all.
933 00:43:48,081 00:43:50,361 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
934 00:43:50,361 00:43:52,690 And they would have had to contend with lowering somebody, And they would have had to contend with lowering somebody,
935 00:43:52,690 00:43:55,190 who was probably barely capable of looking after himself, who was probably barely capable of looking after himself,
936 00:43:55,190 00:43:56,660 going in and out of consciousness. going in and out of consciousness.
937 00:43:56,660 00:44:00,620 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
938 00:44:00,620 00:44:02,820 And then you have to think of their gear. And then you have to think of their gear.
939 00:44:02,820 00:44:04,530 Have ropes frozen into wires, Have ropes frozen into wires,
940 00:44:04,530 00:44:07,413 clothing that's been wet for the last three to four days, clothing that's been wet for the last three to four days,
941 00:44:08,260 00:44:10,753 they're cold, tired. they're cold, tired.
942 00:44:10,753 00:44:12,980 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
943 00:44:12,980 00:44:14,862 It would have been a very serious situation indeed. It would have been a very serious situation indeed.
944 00:44:14,862 00:44:19,862 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
945 00:44:26,697 00:44:31,697 (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling)
946 00:44:37,701 00:44:39,589 They heard this voice. They heard this voice.
947 00:44:39,589 00:44:41,910 (wind howling) (wind howling)
948 00:44:41,910 00:44:42,970 And they just looked at each other, And they just looked at each other,
949 00:44:42,970 00:44:44,705 and they know what it is. and they know what it is.
950 00:44:44,705 00:44:49,705 (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language)
951 00:44:51,360 00:44:52,320 - [Steven] A railway guard - [Steven] A railway guard
952 00:44:52,320 00:44:55,540 had gone down to the tunnel door they were trying to reach. had gone down to the tunnel door they were trying to reach.
953 00:44:55,540 00:44:57,545 And he was calling out to them in the storm. And he was calling out to them in the storm.
954 00:44:57,545 00:45:01,516 (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language)
955 00:45:01,516 00:45:04,330 - And they just shouted back, "All is well," - And they just shouted back, "All is well,"
956 00:45:04,330 00:45:06,268 which is classic when you think about it. which is classic when you think about it.
957 00:45:06,268 00:45:08,980 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
958 00:45:08,980 00:45:10,100 Absolutely no mention of the fact Absolutely no mention of the fact
959 00:45:10,100 00:45:12,600 they've got a badly injured companion, they've got a badly injured companion,
960 00:45:12,600 00:45:15,170 no mention of how exhausted and how tired they are no mention of how exhausted and how tired they are
961 00:45:15,170 00:45:16,920 and the danger they're in. and the danger they're in.
962 00:45:16,920 00:45:19,230 That's a sort of pride, really. That's a sort of pride, really.
963 00:45:19,230 00:45:21,118 They will come down together. They will come down together.
964 00:45:21,118 00:45:22,520 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
965 00:45:22,520 00:45:24,018 They do not need help. They do not need help.
966 00:45:24,018 00:45:25,880 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
967 00:45:25,880 00:45:27,380 But more than anything, But more than anything,
968 00:45:27,380 00:45:30,210 their spirits would have just raised at that point, their spirits would have just raised at that point,
969 00:45:30,210 00:45:32,319 there was someone else there. there was someone else there.
970 00:45:32,319 00:45:33,152 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
971 00:45:33,152 00:45:36,238 I just have to do four abseils, possibly five. I just have to do four abseils, possibly five.
972 00:45:36,238 00:45:37,071 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
973 00:45:37,071 00:45:39,737 I'll be having a cup of tea with the guard in two hours. I'll be having a cup of tea with the guard in two hours.
974 00:45:39,737 00:45:40,770 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
975 00:45:40,770 00:45:41,983 It was over. It was over.
976 00:45:41,983 00:45:46,983 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
977 00:45:59,100 00:46:00,770 - [Steven] As Joe is filming on the Eiger, - [Steven] As Joe is filming on the Eiger,
978 00:46:00,770 00:46:02,990 the weather window starts to close. the weather window starts to close.
979 00:46:02,990 00:46:04,250 (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music)
980 00:46:04,250 00:46:06,870 A forecast comes through for heavy snow. A forecast comes through for heavy snow.
981 00:46:06,870 00:46:11,870 (intense music) (chopper droning) (intense music) (chopper droning)
982 00:46:12,040 00:46:13,690 The helicopter must take Joe off The helicopter must take Joe off
983 00:46:13,690 00:46:15,558 before the cloud cover descends. before the cloud cover descends.
984 00:46:15,558 00:46:16,770 (intense music) (chopper droning) (intense music) (chopper droning)
985 00:46:16,770 00:46:18,640 From the narrow ledge on the face, From the narrow ledge on the face,
986 00:46:18,640 00:46:21,050 he will have to clip back on to the winch line he will have to clip back on to the winch line
987 00:46:21,050 00:46:23,209 that is just five millimeters thick. that is just five millimeters thick.
988 00:46:23,209 00:46:24,042 (intense music) (chopper droning) (intense music) (chopper droning)
989 00:46:24,042 00:46:27,330 But it's so thin because if the climber becomes entangled, But it's so thin because if the climber becomes entangled,
990 00:46:27,330 00:46:29,905 the pilot will be forced to cut the line. the pilot will be forced to cut the line.
991 00:46:29,905 00:46:34,905 (intense music) (chopper droning) (intense music) (chopper droning)
992 00:46:44,960 00:46:47,850 - [Joe] You walk right on the edge of things - [Joe] You walk right on the edge of things
993 00:46:47,850 00:46:49,052 in the mountains. in the mountains.
994 00:46:49,052 00:46:51,670 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
995 00:46:51,670 00:46:53,360 And there's a very fine line And there's a very fine line
996 00:46:54,260 00:46:56,463 between success and disaster, between success and disaster,
997 00:46:58,530 00:46:59,878 between life and death. between life and death.
998 00:46:59,878 00:47:03,918 (intense music) (chopper droning) (intense music) (chopper droning)
999 00:47:03,918 00:47:06,400 (intense music) (men panting) (intense music) (men panting)
1000 00:47:06,400 00:47:07,950 And walking on the edge of that And walking on the edge of that
1001 00:47:08,850 00:47:12,000 gives you a completely different perspective on life gives you a completely different perspective on life
1002 00:47:12,000 00:47:14,323 and your sense of being alive. and your sense of being alive.
1003 00:47:15,380 00:47:18,180 And even when you're climbing and the conditions are great And even when you're climbing and the conditions are great
1004 00:47:18,180 00:47:20,090 and everything's going swimmingly, and everything's going swimmingly,
1005 00:47:20,090 00:47:24,170 you always have that little part in the back of your mind, you always have that little part in the back of your mind,
1006 00:47:24,170 00:47:26,770 that's just saying, just watch out, watch out, watch out. that's just saying, just watch out, watch out, watch out.
1007 00:47:26,770 00:47:28,825 It can go wrong in an instant. It can go wrong in an instant.
1008 00:47:28,825 00:47:30,831 (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music)
1009 00:47:30,831 00:47:32,560 - [Steven] At 2:00 p.m. that afternoon, - [Steven] At 2:00 p.m. that afternoon,
1010 00:47:32,560 00:47:34,750 Andreas Hinterstoisser unclipped from the rope Andreas Hinterstoisser unclipped from the rope
1011 00:47:34,750 00:47:36,550 that linked the four climbers that linked the four climbers
1012 00:47:36,550 00:47:38,991 and began to prepare their final abseil. and began to prepare their final abseil.
1013 00:47:38,991 00:47:40,260 (men panting) (men panting)
1014 00:47:40,260 00:47:42,503 They were barely only 200 feet from safety. They were barely only 200 feet from safety.
1015 00:47:42,503 00:47:47,503 (snow droning) (wind howling) (snow droning) (wind howling)
1016 00:47:58,607 00:48:03,607 (hammer thumping) (snow droning) (hammer thumping) (snow droning)
1017 00:48:04,055 00:48:09,055 (shouting in foreign language) (snow droning) (shouting in foreign language) (snow droning)
1018 00:48:16,560 00:48:19,920 - [Joe] The violence of it, the shock of it - [Joe] The violence of it, the shock of it
1019 00:48:19,920 00:48:24,290 must have been immense, a massive avalanche must have been immense, a massive avalanche
1020 00:48:24,290 00:48:26,933 just caught them like a tsunami. just caught them like a tsunami.
1021 00:48:26,933 00:48:27,766 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
1022 00:48:27,766 00:48:30,349 (snow droning) (snow droning)
1023 00:48:34,292 00:48:37,857 It just blasted Angerer and Kurz straight off the ledge It just blasted Angerer and Kurz straight off the ledge
1024 00:48:37,857 00:48:39,651 and out at the abyss below. and out at the abyss below.
1025 00:48:39,651 00:48:41,121 (rope creaking) (rope creaking)
1026 00:48:41,121 00:48:42,146 (Willy crashing) (Willy crashing)
1027 00:48:42,146 00:48:46,200 The impact of these two yanked Rainer up against the piton. The impact of these two yanked Rainer up against the piton.
1028 00:48:47,587 00:48:50,254 (intense music) (intense music)
1029 00:49:02,218 00:49:03,885 - [Toni] Hey, Willy! - [Toni] Hey, Willy!
1030 00:49:06,597 00:49:08,200 Willy! Willy!
1031 00:49:08,200 00:49:10,010 - [Steven] Below Kurz, Willy Angerer - [Steven] Below Kurz, Willy Angerer
1032 00:49:10,010 00:49:11,786 was almost certainly dead. was almost certainly dead.
1033 00:49:11,786 00:49:13,360 - [Toni] Willy! - [Toni] Willy!
1034 00:49:13,360 00:49:15,710 - [Steven] Killed on impact with the rock face. - [Steven] Killed on impact with the rock face.
1035 00:49:16,870 00:49:18,615 And out of sight above him. And out of sight above him.
1036 00:49:18,615 00:49:19,690 - Edi! - Edi!
1037 00:49:19,690 00:49:21,295 - [Steven] Edi Rainer was dying too. - [Steven] Edi Rainer was dying too.
1038 00:49:21,295 00:49:22,128 (placid music) - Edi! (placid music) - Edi!
1039 00:49:24,020 00:49:25,170 - [Steven] The weight of the two climbers - [Steven] The weight of the two climbers
1040 00:49:25,170 00:49:26,690 on the rope around his waist on the rope around his waist
1041 00:49:26,690 00:49:29,945 would have crushed his diaphragm and slowly asphyxiated him. would have crushed his diaphragm and slowly asphyxiated him.
1042 00:49:29,945 00:49:30,876 (placid music) (Eduard heavily breathing) (placid music) (Eduard heavily breathing)
1043 00:49:30,876 00:49:32,817 It would have taken him 10 minutes to die. It would have taken him 10 minutes to die.
1044 00:49:32,817 00:49:35,410 (placid music) (placid music)
1045 00:49:35,410 00:49:38,260 There was no sign of Andreas Hinterstoisser. There was no sign of Andreas Hinterstoisser.
1046 00:49:38,260 00:49:39,580 His body was later discovered His body was later discovered
1047 00:49:39,580 00:49:42,955 at the foot of the north face, 2,000 feet below. at the foot of the north face, 2,000 feet below.
1048 00:49:42,955 00:49:45,540 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
1049 00:49:45,540 00:49:47,744 - Kurz was just hanging in space. - Kurz was just hanging in space.
1050 00:49:47,744 00:49:49,620 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
1051 00:49:49,620 00:49:51,163 His companion dead below him, His companion dead below him,
1052 00:49:52,035 00:49:53,715 and his companion dead above him. and his companion dead above him.
1053 00:49:53,715 00:49:57,052 (placid music) (placid music)
1054 00:49:57,052 00:50:00,503 And Hinterstoisser was gone, swept out into the void. And Hinterstoisser was gone, swept out into the void.
1055 00:50:00,503 00:50:03,170 (placid music) (placid music)
1056 00:50:04,170 00:50:07,240 I've been in a situation where people I've been in a situation where people
1057 00:50:07,240 00:50:08,593 have fallen to their death, have fallen to their death,
1058 00:50:09,650 00:50:10,772 close by me. close by me.
1059 00:50:10,772 00:50:13,610 (placid music) (placid music)
1060 00:50:13,610 00:50:18,277 And it renders you almost incapable of doing anything. And it renders you almost incapable of doing anything.
1061 00:50:18,277 00:50:19,140 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1062 00:50:19,140 00:50:22,653 You're so threatened by the immediacy of the death, You're so threatened by the immediacy of the death,
1063 00:50:23,690 00:50:28,170 you're sort of unmanned, you're physically incapable you're sort of unmanned, you're physically incapable
1064 00:50:28,170 00:50:32,404 of getting over the shock of what you've just witnessed. of getting over the shock of what you've just witnessed.
1065 00:50:32,404 00:50:37,404 (placid music) (rope creaking) (placid music) (rope creaking)
1066 00:50:40,566 00:50:43,233 (ice crunching) (ice crunching)
1067 00:50:46,623 00:50:48,530 - [Steven] At 3:00 o'clock that afternoon, - [Steven] At 3:00 o'clock that afternoon,
1068 00:50:48,530 00:50:50,410 the railway guard from the tunnel called down the railway guard from the tunnel called down
1069 00:50:50,410 00:50:52,245 to the mountain guides in the valley. to the mountain guides in the valley.
1070 00:50:52,245 00:50:54,300 (train droning) (train droning)
1071 00:50:54,300 00:50:55,370 He said he'd gone out to call He said he'd gone out to call
1072 00:50:55,370 00:50:57,430 for the four young climbers again. for the four young climbers again.
1073 00:50:57,430 00:51:00,720 But this time had heard only one voice calling back, But this time had heard only one voice calling back,
1074 00:51:00,720 00:51:02,613 crying desperately for help. crying desperately for help.
1075 00:51:02,613 00:51:05,280 (intense music) (intense music)
1076 00:51:06,390 00:51:09,270 Within an hour, a rescue party had traveled up the tunnel Within an hour, a rescue party had traveled up the tunnel
1077 00:51:09,270 00:51:12,096 to the window that led directly onto the north face. to the window that led directly onto the north face.
1078 00:51:12,096 00:51:17,096 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
1079 00:51:19,580 00:51:21,550 They knew if they climbed the ledge system They knew if they climbed the ledge system
1080 00:51:21,550 00:51:23,100 that ran across the face, that ran across the face,
1081 00:51:23,100 00:51:26,157 it would placed them somewhere below where Kurz was trapped. it would placed them somewhere below where Kurz was trapped.
1082 00:51:26,157 00:51:28,090 (intense music) (intense music)
1083 00:51:28,090 00:51:30,000 700 feet from the window, 700 feet from the window,
1084 00:51:30,000 00:51:32,466 they reached a point where they could hear his cries. they reached a point where they could hear his cries.
1085 00:51:32,466 00:51:33,299 (intense music) (intense music)
1086 00:51:33,299 00:51:36,436 But Kurz was out of sight 150 feet above them. But Kurz was out of sight 150 feet above them.
1087 00:51:36,436 00:51:37,615 (intense music) (intense music)
1088 00:51:37,615 00:51:39,060 (wind howling) (wind howling)
1089 00:51:39,060 00:51:40,980 To reach him, they would have to climb a series To reach him, they would have to climb a series
1090 00:51:40,980 00:51:43,010 of vertical and overhang cliffs of vertical and overhang cliffs
1091 00:51:43,010 00:51:45,344 in what were now gale force winds. in what were now gale force winds.
1092 00:51:45,344 00:51:49,939 (wind howling) - [Man] Toni, Toni! (wind howling) - [Man] Toni, Toni!
1093 00:51:49,939 00:51:54,780 (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling)
1094 00:51:54,780 00:51:56,760 - Toni Kurz keeps imploring them, - Toni Kurz keeps imploring them,
1095 00:51:56,760 00:51:58,984 you cannot get to me from below. you cannot get to me from below.
1096 00:51:58,984 00:52:01,050 (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling)
1097 00:52:01,050 00:52:04,552 You must climb up and you'll be able to abseil down to me. You must climb up and you'll be able to abseil down to me.
1098 00:52:04,552 00:52:06,740 (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling)
1099 00:52:06,740 00:52:10,411 But they can't do it, they can't do it in those conditions. But they can't do it, they can't do it in those conditions.
1100 00:52:10,411 00:52:14,020 (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling)
1101 00:52:14,020 00:52:15,521 And it's getting on to darkness. And it's getting on to darkness.
1102 00:52:15,521 00:52:16,760 (wind howling) (wind howling)
1103 00:52:16,760 00:52:19,600 They can't afford to be pinned out in the open They can't afford to be pinned out in the open
1104 00:52:19,600 00:52:21,368 in this storm, they will die too. in this storm, they will die too.
1105 00:52:21,368 00:52:23,980 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
1106 00:52:23,980 00:52:25,587 And they say it to Toni, And they say it to Toni,
1107 00:52:25,587 00:52:29,128 "You have to hang on until the morning, you must hang off." "You have to hang on until the morning, you must hang off."
1108 00:52:29,128 00:52:34,128 (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling)
1109 00:52:37,490 00:52:38,980 It must have been heartbreaking It must have been heartbreaking
1110 00:52:38,980 00:52:41,560 for those guides to leave him there. for those guides to leave him there.
1111 00:52:41,560 00:52:44,771 They probably knew that he wasn't gonna make the night. They probably knew that he wasn't gonna make the night.
1112 00:52:44,771 00:52:46,690 (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling)
1113 00:52:46,690 00:52:49,560 They could hear his cries coming back to them. They could hear his cries coming back to them.
1114 00:52:49,560 00:52:54,560 (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling)
1115 00:52:59,780 00:53:02,310 This was a man who would never have asked This was a man who would never have asked
1116 00:53:02,310 00:53:06,700 for rescue in his life, and he was pleading almost childlike for rescue in his life, and he was pleading almost childlike
1117 00:53:06,700 00:53:07,788 for them not to leave him. for them not to leave him.
1118 00:53:07,788 00:53:12,788 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1119 00:53:15,788 00:53:17,015 And I can remember feeling like that. And I can remember feeling like that.
1120 00:53:17,015 00:53:21,050 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1121 00:53:21,050 00:53:22,873 I hung in a very long, dark night. I hung in a very long, dark night.
1122 00:53:24,320 00:53:28,660 And I can remember just, just almost being overwhelmed And I can remember just, just almost being overwhelmed
1123 00:53:28,660 00:53:30,455 by the loneliness the situation. by the loneliness the situation.
1124 00:53:30,455 00:53:33,130 (placid music) (placid music)
1125 00:53:33,130 00:53:35,164 The sense of being abandoned. The sense of being abandoned.
1126 00:53:35,164 00:53:40,130 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1127 00:53:40,130 00:53:42,400 And he had known as a guide that his chances And he had known as a guide that his chances
1128 00:53:42,400 00:53:46,114 of surviving that night would be slim to nil. of surviving that night would be slim to nil.
1129 00:53:46,114 00:53:49,413 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1130 00:53:49,413 00:53:52,263 The cold takes you in a particularly insidious way. The cold takes you in a particularly insidious way.
1131 00:53:52,263 00:53:53,450 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1132 00:53:53,450 00:53:55,420 As if it's creeping through you, As if it's creeping through you,
1133 00:53:55,420 00:53:58,070 tentacles of cold is starting to creep through you, tentacles of cold is starting to creep through you,
1134 00:53:58,070 00:54:01,393 starting to slow everything down, starting to slow everything down,
1135 00:54:02,510 00:54:04,812 to turn things off inside. to turn things off inside.
1136 00:54:04,812 00:54:08,210 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1137 00:54:08,210 00:54:12,904 And the thought of just sleeping is so seductive. And the thought of just sleeping is so seductive.
1138 00:54:12,904 00:54:16,210 (intense music) (intense music)
1139 00:54:16,210 00:54:17,610 It would have been so easy It would have been so easy
1140 00:54:19,510 00:54:20,695 just to let it go. just to let it go.
1141 00:54:20,695 00:54:23,362 (intense music) (intense music)
1142 00:54:24,200 00:54:28,240 In truth, if my partner hadn't cut the rope, In truth, if my partner hadn't cut the rope,
1143 00:54:28,240 00:54:29,612 I would have died of cold. I would have died of cold.
1144 00:54:29,612 00:54:32,279 (placid music) (placid music)
1145 00:54:36,030 00:54:39,707 So, I can imagine what he felt like hanging on that rope. So, I can imagine what he felt like hanging on that rope.
1146 00:54:39,707 00:54:42,290 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1147 00:54:42,290 00:54:44,493 You are helpless like that. You are helpless like that.
1148 00:54:44,493 00:54:45,970 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1149 00:54:45,970 00:54:48,146 And just incredibly alone. And just incredibly alone.
1150 00:54:48,146 00:54:53,146 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1151 00:54:56,521 00:55:00,933 (keyboard ticking) (wind howling) (keyboard ticking) (wind howling)
1152 00:55:00,933 00:55:02,540 I knew people died in mountains, I knew people died in mountains,
1153 00:55:02,540 00:55:04,654 long before I had my accident. long before I had my accident.
1154 00:55:04,654 00:55:06,630 (keyboard ticking) (keyboard ticking)
1155 00:55:06,630 00:55:10,260 I sort of understood you were playing a game I sort of understood you were playing a game
1156 00:55:10,260 00:55:12,360 for very high stakes. for very high stakes.
1157 00:55:12,360 00:55:15,412 And you might not actually have a choice over your fate. And you might not actually have a choice over your fate.
1158 00:55:15,412 00:55:19,030 (placid music) (keyboard ticking) (placid music) (keyboard ticking)
1159 00:55:19,030 00:55:22,050 But recovering from the accident in Peru, But recovering from the accident in Peru,
1160 00:55:22,050 00:55:24,060 I wrote this book, "Touching the Void". I wrote this book, "Touching the Void".
1161 00:55:24,060 00:55:25,450 In the end, I wrote it in seven weeks, In the end, I wrote it in seven weeks,
1162 00:55:25,450 00:55:29,824 and I thought if it sold 500 copies, then I would be happy. and I thought if it sold 500 copies, then I would be happy.
1163 00:55:29,824 00:55:30,657 (keyboard ticking) (placid music) (keyboard ticking) (placid music)
1164 00:55:30,657 00:55:32,483 I discovered I had another talent. I discovered I had another talent.
1165 00:55:32,483 00:55:35,090 (placid music) (keyboard ticking) (placid music) (keyboard ticking)
1166 00:55:35,090 00:55:39,987 But the process of writing made me think too much But the process of writing made me think too much
1167 00:55:40,900 00:55:42,150 about what we were doing, about what we were doing,
1168 00:55:43,430 00:55:46,350 about the price some of us were paying for this. about the price some of us were paying for this.
1169 00:55:46,350 00:55:49,330 (placid music) (placid music)
1170 00:55:49,330 00:55:53,293 I started thinking about the people who died. I started thinking about the people who died.
1171 00:55:53,293 00:55:56,180 (placid music) (placid music)
1172 00:55:56,180 00:55:57,757 Some were acquaintances, and some were good friends, Some were acquaintances, and some were good friends,
1173 00:55:57,757 00:56:01,680 and some were friends I never stopped thinking about, and some were friends I never stopped thinking about,
1174 00:56:01,680 00:56:03,560 and some died in different ways, and some died in different ways,
1175 00:56:03,560 00:56:05,770 and some died in inexplicable ways. and some died in inexplicable ways.
1176 00:56:05,770 00:56:07,570 And often, when they died, And often, when they died,
1177 00:56:07,570 00:56:10,683 the first thing you did was you asked how, not why, the first thing you did was you asked how, not why,
1178 00:56:11,880 00:56:14,909 because you wanted to know what they did wrong. because you wanted to know what they did wrong.
1179 00:56:14,909 00:56:17,430 (placid music) (placid music)
1180 00:56:17,430 00:56:19,960 We did something that we loved with a passion, We did something that we loved with a passion,
1181 00:56:19,960 00:56:21,770 and it was life enhancing and life defining, and it was life enhancing and life defining,
1182 00:56:21,770 00:56:26,011 and yet it was killing our friends, and nearly killing us. and yet it was killing our friends, and nearly killing us.
1183 00:56:26,011 00:56:28,678 (placid music) (placid music)
1184 00:56:31,890 00:56:35,220 And I suppose when I started writing, And I suppose when I started writing,
1185 00:56:35,220 00:56:37,240 I'd opened a Pandora's box of fears I'd opened a Pandora's box of fears
1186 00:56:38,659 00:56:40,219 that you can never quite put the lid on. that you can never quite put the lid on.
1187 00:56:40,219 00:56:42,090 (placid music) (placid music)
1188 00:56:42,090 00:56:44,590 Despite all the climbing I did, Despite all the climbing I did,
1189 00:56:44,590 00:56:48,120 I knew that I was more exposed and more vulnerable. I knew that I was more exposed and more vulnerable.
1190 00:56:48,120 00:56:51,220 (placid music) (placid music)
1191 00:56:51,220 00:56:53,660 And I suddenly realized my love affair And I suddenly realized my love affair
1192 00:56:53,660 00:56:56,297 with risk taking had cooled. with risk taking had cooled.
1193 00:56:56,297 00:56:59,220 (placid music) (placid music)
1194 00:56:59,220 00:57:00,931 I didn't wanna play this game anymore. I didn't wanna play this game anymore.
1195 00:57:00,931 00:57:03,514 (placid music) (placid music)
1196 00:57:05,629 00:57:10,629 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
1197 00:57:15,260 00:57:16,550 - [Steven] A summer storm on the Eiger - [Steven] A summer storm on the Eiger
1198 00:57:16,550 00:57:18,700 is often followed by a cold front. is often followed by a cold front.
1199 00:57:18,700 00:57:20,280 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
1200 00:57:20,280 00:57:23,080 All the water that's been pouring down the face freezes. All the water that's been pouring down the face freezes.
1201 00:57:23,080 00:57:24,010 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
1202 00:57:24,010 00:57:26,793 Ice fills every ledge, crack and foothold, Ice fills every ledge, crack and foothold,
1203 00:57:27,680 00:57:30,021 and glazes every surface of the rock. and glazes every surface of the rock.
1204 00:57:30,021 00:57:30,920 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
1205 00:57:30,920 00:57:33,480 During Kurz's fourth night on the Eiger, During Kurz's fourth night on the Eiger,
1206 00:57:33,480 00:57:36,160 its vertical face had frozen solid. its vertical face had frozen solid.
1207 00:57:36,160 00:57:41,160 (placid music) (rope creaking) (placid music) (rope creaking)
1208 00:57:43,100 00:57:44,700 - [Joe] I just can't imagine how long - [Joe] I just can't imagine how long
1209 00:57:44,700 00:57:46,001 that night must have been. that night must have been.
1210 00:57:46,001 00:57:49,000 (rope creaking) (placid music) (rope creaking) (placid music)
1211 00:57:49,000 00:57:52,380 What on earth Kurz did to hold on to life. What on earth Kurz did to hold on to life.
1212 00:57:53,380 00:57:56,710 (rope creaking) (placid music) (rope creaking) (placid music)
1213 00:57:56,710 00:58:00,750 He'd lost his glove and his exposed hand He'd lost his glove and his exposed hand
1214 00:58:00,750 00:58:03,180 was now completely frostbitten. was now completely frostbitten.
1215 00:58:03,180 00:58:04,013 (rope creaking) (placid music) (rope creaking) (placid music)
1216 00:58:04,013 00:58:05,670 His arm was like a claw. His arm was like a claw.
1217 00:58:05,670 00:58:10,670 (rope creaking) (placid music) (rope creaking) (placid music)
1218 00:58:13,140 00:58:15,277 - [Man] Toni! (gear rattling) - [Man] Toni! (gear rattling)
1219 00:58:15,277 00:58:18,170 - [Joe] And then, he would have heard the clanking of metal - [Joe] And then, he would have heard the clanking of metal
1220 00:58:18,170 00:58:19,700 and the shouts of the guides and the shouts of the guides
1221 00:58:19,700 00:58:21,450 as they came back along the tracks as they came back along the tracks
1222 00:58:21,450 00:58:23,000 they'd made the previous night. they'd made the previous night.
1223 00:58:23,907 00:58:25,320 - [Man] Toni! (placid music) - [Man] Toni! (placid music)
1224 00:58:25,320 00:58:28,074 - He must have thought they're guides, - He must have thought they're guides,
1225 00:58:28,074 00:58:28,907 they're just gonna get me down, they're just gonna get me down,
1226 00:58:28,907 00:58:30,309 they're just gonna get me down. they're just gonna get me down.
1227 00:58:30,309 00:58:32,976 (intense music) (intense music)
1228 00:58:34,569 00:58:35,920 - [Steven] For the second time, - [Steven] For the second time,
1229 00:58:35,920 00:58:38,623 the rescue team made it to within 150 feet of Kurz, the rescue team made it to within 150 feet of Kurz,
1230 00:58:39,740 00:58:41,030 but the vertical cliffs above them but the vertical cliffs above them
1231 00:58:41,030 00:58:43,772 were now sheathed in millimeter thick black ice. were now sheathed in millimeter thick black ice.
1232 00:58:43,772 00:58:48,060 (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) (speaking in foreign language)
1233 00:58:48,060 00:58:51,460 The rescuers reported that climbing up was impossible. The rescuers reported that climbing up was impossible.
1234 00:58:51,460 00:58:52,293 - Toni! - Toni!
1235 00:58:52,293 00:58:54,120 - [Steven] Somehow, they had to find a way - [Steven] Somehow, they had to find a way
1236 00:58:54,120 00:58:55,736 to get Kurz down. to get Kurz down.
1237 00:58:55,736 00:58:56,569 (shouting in foreign language) (intense music) (shouting in foreign language) (intense music)
1238 00:58:56,569 00:58:58,320 But the rope he was hanging wasn't long enough But the rope he was hanging wasn't long enough
1239 00:58:58,320 00:58:59,422 to reach them. to reach them.
1240 00:58:59,422 00:59:00,255 (intense music) (intense music)
1241 00:59:00,255 00:59:02,430 So first, Kurz had to free himself. So first, Kurz had to free himself.
1242 00:59:02,430 00:59:04,648 And then, he had to find more rope. And then, he had to find more rope.
1243 00:59:04,648 00:59:05,530 (intense music) (intense music)
1244 00:59:05,530 00:59:07,287 - They said to Toni, - They said to Toni,
1245 00:59:07,287 00:59:11,509 "The only way you can do that is cut Angerer free." "The only way you can do that is cut Angerer free."
1246 00:59:11,509 00:59:12,530 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
1247 00:59:12,530 00:59:14,173 Angerer is hanging below him, Angerer is hanging below him,
1248 00:59:15,580 00:59:17,155 frozen to the rock wall. frozen to the rock wall.
1249 00:59:17,155 00:59:20,860 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
1250 00:59:20,860 00:59:22,922 And he's faced with this awful predicament. And he's faced with this awful predicament.
1251 00:59:22,922 00:59:27,922 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
1252 00:59:28,530 00:59:32,800 He has to get his knife and hack away He has to get his knife and hack away
1253 00:59:32,800 00:59:34,963 at the frozen fibers of the rope. at the frozen fibers of the rope.
1254 00:59:34,963 00:59:37,770 (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling)
1255 00:59:37,770 00:59:42,730 This is a man he's just spent the last four days living with This is a man he's just spent the last four days living with
1256 00:59:42,730 00:59:47,730 in great intensity, he's just gonna cut him free. in great intensity, he's just gonna cut him free.
1257 00:59:47,815 00:59:51,428 (gear rattling) (intense music) (gear rattling) (intense music)
1258 00:59:51,428 00:59:54,095 (rope creaking) (rope creaking)
1259 00:59:57,860 00:59:59,250 - [Steven] But cutting away Willy Angerer - [Steven] But cutting away Willy Angerer
1260 00:59:59,250 01:00:00,633 was just the start. was just the start.
1261 01:00:00,633 01:00:02,790 (wind howling) (wind howling)
1262 01:00:02,790 01:00:04,980 To make enough rope to reach the rescuers, To make enough rope to reach the rescuers,
1263 01:00:04,980 01:00:08,473 Kurz had to climb up and cutaway Edi Rainer too. Kurz had to climb up and cutaway Edi Rainer too.
1264 01:00:08,473 01:00:12,131 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1265 01:00:12,131 01:00:13,850 (chattering) (placid music) (chattering) (placid music)
1266 01:00:13,850 01:00:16,420 In the valley, the drama unfolding on the north face In the valley, the drama unfolding on the north face
1267 01:00:16,420 01:00:17,968 was drawing a crowd. was drawing a crowd.
1268 01:00:17,968 01:00:19,260 (chattering) (placid music) (chattering) (placid music)
1269 01:00:19,260 01:00:21,200 For hour after hour that day, For hour after hour that day,
1270 01:00:21,200 01:00:24,099 they waited for glimpses of Kurz between the clouds. they waited for glimpses of Kurz between the clouds.
1271 01:00:24,099 01:00:27,800 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
1272 01:00:27,800 01:00:31,200 It was mid morning by the time he started his slow It was mid morning by the time he started his slow
1273 01:00:31,200 01:00:33,798 and painful progress up the rope. and painful progress up the rope.
1274 01:00:33,798 01:00:34,631 (placid music) (gear rattling) (placid music) (gear rattling)
1275 01:00:34,631 01:00:37,020 - [Joe] He had to get up about five, 10 feet, - [Joe] He had to get up about five, 10 feet,
1276 01:00:37,020 01:00:39,247 and he got to a point where the rock steepened. and he got to a point where the rock steepened.
1277 01:00:39,247 01:00:44,247 (placid music) (gear rattling) (placid music) (gear rattling)
1278 01:00:46,365 01:00:47,780 And then he could hand over hand up the rope, And then he could hand over hand up the rope,
1279 01:00:47,780 01:00:51,944 using his feet on the rock, get himself up to Rainer. using his feet on the rock, get himself up to Rainer.
1280 01:00:51,944 01:00:56,163 (placid music) - [Toni] Edi, Edi, Edi. (placid music) - [Toni] Edi, Edi, Edi.
1281 01:00:56,163 01:01:01,163 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1282 01:01:03,970 01:01:05,950 - [Steven] Kurz needed 150 feet of rope - [Steven] Kurz needed 150 feet of rope
1283 01:01:05,950 01:01:07,378 to reach the rescuers. to reach the rescuers.
1284 01:01:07,378 01:01:11,600 (intense music) (hammer tapping) (intense music) (hammer tapping)
1285 01:01:11,600 01:01:14,561 But even when he'd cut Edi free, he didn't have enough. But even when he'd cut Edi free, he didn't have enough.
1286 01:01:14,561 01:01:16,490 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
1287 01:01:16,490 01:01:18,520 The only way to make more was The only way to make more was
1288 01:01:18,520 01:01:21,350 to unravel the frozen three ply rope to unravel the frozen three ply rope
1289 01:01:21,350 01:01:23,321 with his frostbitten hands. with his frostbitten hands.
1290 01:01:23,321 01:01:24,850 (intense music) (wind howling) (intense music) (wind howling)
1291 01:01:24,850 01:01:27,870 - [Joe] I just think about what it was like. - [Joe] I just think about what it was like.
1292 01:01:29,300 01:01:32,550 Just all night, stay awake, stay awake. Just all night, stay awake, stay awake.
1293 01:01:32,550 01:01:34,240 Don't let the cold take you. Don't let the cold take you.
1294 01:01:34,240 01:01:35,644 They'll come for me in the morning. They'll come for me in the morning.
1295 01:01:35,644 01:01:37,511 (placid music) (placid music)
1296 01:01:37,511 01:01:39,260 And when they come for you in the morning, And when they come for you in the morning,
1297 01:01:39,260 01:01:42,130 there's yet another impossible task set to you. there's yet another impossible task set to you.
1298 01:01:42,130 01:01:44,212 And then, another one, and another one. And then, another one, and another one.
1299 01:01:44,212 01:01:49,212 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1300 01:01:50,524 01:01:51,662 That in a way haunts me. That in a way haunts me.
1301 01:01:51,662 01:01:56,662 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1302 01:01:58,970 01:02:01,094 It wasn't just luck that I survived. It wasn't just luck that I survived.
1303 01:02:01,094 01:02:02,760 (placid music) (placid music)
1304 01:02:02,760 01:02:03,858 I made an effort. I made an effort.
1305 01:02:03,858 01:02:05,410 (placid music) (placid music)
1306 01:02:05,410 01:02:09,342 It was all I had to do once I found a way out, is endure. It was all I had to do once I found a way out, is endure.
1307 01:02:09,342 01:02:11,140 (placid music) (placid music)
1308 01:02:11,140 01:02:13,383 It wasn't easy, but that's all I had to do. It wasn't easy, but that's all I had to do.
1309 01:02:13,383 01:02:14,460 (placid music) (placid music)
1310 01:02:14,460 01:02:18,490 So, I know what strength of mind it takes So, I know what strength of mind it takes
1311 01:02:18,490 01:02:21,194 to just keep death away. to just keep death away.
1312 01:02:21,194 01:02:26,194 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1313 01:02:30,410 01:02:33,410 - [Steven] It took Kurz five hours to unravel the rope - [Steven] It took Kurz five hours to unravel the rope
1314 01:02:33,410 01:02:35,005 and knot the pieces together. and knot the pieces together.
1315 01:02:35,005 01:02:39,000 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1316 01:02:39,000 01:02:41,970 But when he finished, he had a single strand But when he finished, he had a single strand
1317 01:02:41,970 01:02:44,590 that last linked him to the rescuers, that last linked him to the rescuers,
1318 01:02:44,590 01:02:46,717 just 150 feet below him. just 150 feet below him.
1319 01:02:46,717 01:02:49,674 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1320 01:02:49,674 01:02:51,870 - [Joe] Now, he couldn't abseil on this rope, - [Joe] Now, he couldn't abseil on this rope,
1321 01:02:51,870 01:02:55,280 'cause it was only a single strand, it wasn't strong enough. 'cause it was only a single strand, it wasn't strong enough.
1322 01:02:55,280 01:02:56,680 But he could pull a rope up. But he could pull a rope up.
1323 01:02:57,850 01:03:02,685 And the guide attached pitons and a climbing rope. And the guide attached pitons and a climbing rope.
1324 01:03:02,685 01:03:05,047 - Toni (shouts in foreign language). - Toni (shouts in foreign language).
1325 01:03:05,047 01:03:07,947 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1326 01:03:07,947 01:03:10,410 - [Steven] But as Kurz began to pull up the rope, - [Steven] But as Kurz began to pull up the rope,
1327 01:03:10,410 01:03:12,746 the rescuers realized it wasn't long enough. the rescuers realized it wasn't long enough.
1328 01:03:12,746 01:03:16,145 (placid music) - [Man] Toni, Toni, stop! (placid music) - [Man] Toni, Toni, stop!
1329 01:03:16,145 01:03:16,978 - [Steven] So, they go to another. - [Steven] So, they go to another.
1330 01:03:16,978 01:03:17,811 (placid music) (placid music)
1331 01:03:17,811 01:03:20,287 And then, they joined the two ropes with a knot. And then, they joined the two ropes with a knot.
1332 01:03:20,287 01:03:23,220 (placid music) (placid music)
1333 01:03:23,220 01:03:24,120 - Toni, (shouts in foreign language). - Toni, (shouts in foreign language).
1334 01:03:25,386 01:03:27,787 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1335 01:03:27,787 01:03:32,787 - And they watched this bunch of pitons and the rope - And they watched this bunch of pitons and the rope
1336 01:03:32,820 01:03:35,464 gradually going up painfully slow. gradually going up painfully slow.
1337 01:03:35,464 01:03:40,464 (placid music) (gear rattling) (placid music) (gear rattling)
1338 01:03:40,940 01:03:44,383 All he now had to do, all he had to do, All he now had to do, all he had to do,
1339 01:03:46,670 01:03:49,655 was abseil down to safety. was abseil down to safety.
1340 01:03:49,655 01:03:54,655 (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music)
1341 01:03:59,570 01:04:02,300 - [Steven] On the afternoon of his fifth day on the Eiger, - [Steven] On the afternoon of his fifth day on the Eiger,
1342 01:04:02,300 01:04:05,133 Toni Kurz began his descent towards the rescue team. Toni Kurz began his descent towards the rescue team.
1343 01:04:06,000 01:04:08,610 He had 150 feet of broken ground He had 150 feet of broken ground
1344 01:04:08,610 01:04:11,632 and one vertical and overhanging cliff to abseil. and one vertical and overhanging cliff to abseil.
1345 01:04:11,632 01:04:12,550 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1346 01:04:12,550 01:04:14,780 If the rescuers had calculated right, If the rescuers had calculated right,
1347 01:04:14,780 01:04:17,280 the two climbing ropes they that knotted together the two climbing ropes they that knotted together
1348 01:04:17,280 01:04:19,670 would be just enough to bring the weak would be just enough to bring the weak
1349 01:04:19,670 01:04:21,401 and exhausted climber down. and exhausted climber down.
1350 01:04:21,401 01:04:23,780 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1351 01:04:23,780 01:04:27,410 - This is the painfully slow, inch by inch, - This is the painfully slow, inch by inch,
1352 01:04:27,410 01:04:29,990 jerking down movement of a man jerking down movement of a man
1353 01:04:29,990 01:04:33,691 who is at the absolute limit of his physical strength. who is at the absolute limit of his physical strength.
1354 01:04:33,691 01:04:35,440 (placid music) (gear rattling) (placid music) (gear rattling)
1355 01:04:35,440 01:04:37,560 His hands were frost bitten, His hands were frost bitten,
1356 01:04:37,560 01:04:40,744 and he did what any sensible person would do. and he did what any sensible person would do.
1357 01:04:40,744 01:04:41,620 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1358 01:04:41,620 01:04:43,150 He got the abseil rope, He got the abseil rope,
1359 01:04:43,150 01:04:45,840 and he clipped it through his carabiner and he clipped it through his carabiner
1360 01:04:45,840 01:04:48,270 through a snap link at his waist, through a snap link at his waist,
1361 01:04:48,270 01:04:51,330 because he knew with his frozen hands and his frozen arm, because he knew with his frozen hands and his frozen arm,
1362 01:04:51,330 01:04:53,093 he would have very little control. he would have very little control.
1363 01:04:53,093 01:04:54,770 (placid music) (gear rattling) (placid music) (gear rattling)
1364 01:04:54,770 01:04:57,413 And the guides are now looking up. And the guides are now looking up.
1365 01:04:57,413 01:04:58,530 (placid music) (placid music)
1366 01:04:58,530 01:05:01,664 They see his legs appearing over the overhang. They see his legs appearing over the overhang.
1367 01:05:01,664 01:05:02,780 (placid music) (placid music)
1368 01:05:02,780 01:05:04,530 They are going to get him. They are going to get him.
1369 01:05:04,530 01:05:06,960 He was almost within reaching distance. He was almost within reaching distance.
1370 01:05:06,960 01:05:09,627 (placid music) (placid music)
1371 01:05:13,730 01:05:15,593 But as he starts to come down, But as he starts to come down,
1372 01:05:17,020 01:05:20,622 he sees the knot joining the two ropes. he sees the knot joining the two ropes.
1373 01:05:20,622 01:05:21,800 (placid music) (placid music)
1374 01:05:21,800 01:05:24,312 It's about 50 feet off the ground. It's about 50 feet off the ground.
1375 01:05:24,312 01:05:25,770 (placid music) (placid music)
1376 01:05:25,770 01:05:29,087 And as Kurz inches down towards safety, And as Kurz inches down towards safety,
1377 01:05:30,210 01:05:34,967 he feels below him the knot tight against his fists. he feels below him the knot tight against his fists.
1378 01:05:34,967 01:05:36,160 (intense music) (intense music)
1379 01:05:36,160 01:05:39,198 And he knows instantly what the problem is. And he knows instantly what the problem is.
1380 01:05:39,198 01:05:44,198 (gear rattling) (wind howling) (gear rattling) (wind howling)
1381 01:05:49,678 01:05:52,809 The knot is jammed against the snap link. The knot is jammed against the snap link.
1382 01:05:52,809 01:05:56,170 (placid music) (rope creaking) (placid music) (rope creaking)
1383 01:05:56,170 01:05:59,580 And he's now just swinging in space, And he's now just swinging in space,
1384 01:05:59,580 01:06:01,940 out of reach of the guides. (speaking in foreign language) out of reach of the guides. (speaking in foreign language)
1385 01:06:01,940 01:06:04,460 Off to the side from them, off to the left. Off to the side from them, off to the left.
1386 01:06:04,460 01:06:05,630 (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music)
1387 01:06:05,630 01:06:08,598 They had traversed as far around as they could reach. They had traversed as far around as they could reach.
1388 01:06:08,598 01:06:10,022 (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music)
1389 01:06:10,022 01:06:11,502 And then the face dropped away below them. And then the face dropped away below them.
1390 01:06:11,502 01:06:14,790 (placid music) (rope creaking) (placid music) (rope creaking)
1391 01:06:14,790 01:06:18,600 If he'd managed to abseil down to a point that was level, If he'd managed to abseil down to a point that was level,
1392 01:06:18,600 01:06:22,332 they could have thrown a rope for him, pulled him across. they could have thrown a rope for him, pulled him across.
1393 01:06:22,332 01:06:24,680 (placid music) (placid music)
1394 01:06:24,680 01:06:27,960 While he was above them, they could do nothing for him, While he was above them, they could do nothing for him,
1395 01:06:27,960 01:06:29,100 couldn't throw a rope to him, couldn't throw a rope to him,
1396 01:06:29,100 01:06:31,022 they couldn't pull him down to them. they couldn't pull him down to them.
1397 01:06:31,022 01:06:31,855 There was nothing they could do. There was nothing they could do.
1398 01:06:31,855 01:06:33,084 (placid music) (placid music)
1399 01:06:33,084 01:06:35,540 And he knows if he can't get this knot And he knows if he can't get this knot
1400 01:06:35,540 01:06:38,941 through the snap link, he's finished. through the snap link, he's finished.
1401 01:06:38,941 01:06:43,941 (yelling in foreign language) (intense music) (yelling in foreign language) (intense music)
1402 01:06:45,520 01:06:49,680 And guides there, helplessly screaming encouragement to him, And guides there, helplessly screaming encouragement to him,
1403 01:06:49,680 01:06:53,269 you can do it, come one, just one more effort. you can do it, come one, just one more effort.
1404 01:06:53,269 01:06:55,068 (placid music) (placid music)
1405 01:06:55,068 01:06:57,140 (Toni screaming) (rope creaking) (Toni screaming) (rope creaking)
1406 01:06:57,140 01:07:01,130 They could hear him mumbling unintelligibly to himself, They could hear him mumbling unintelligibly to himself,
1407 01:07:01,130 01:07:03,970 trying to exhort himself for one last effort trying to exhort himself for one last effort
1408 01:07:03,970 01:07:05,796 to force this knot through. to force this knot through.
1409 01:07:05,796 01:07:10,175 (placid music) (rope creaking) (placid music) (rope creaking)
1410 01:07:10,175 01:07:11,008 But it wouldn't go. But it wouldn't go.
1411 01:07:11,008 01:07:16,008 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1412 01:07:16,040 01:07:18,673 Suddenly, he sat forward. Suddenly, he sat forward.
1413 01:07:19,980 01:07:21,783 He stopped fighting the knot. He stopped fighting the knot.
1414 01:07:21,783 01:07:22,616 (placid music) (placid music)
1415 01:07:22,616 01:07:26,307 And he said, in a clear, strong voice. And he said, in a clear, strong voice.
1416 01:07:26,307 01:07:31,307 (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) (speaking in foreign language)
1417 01:07:31,977 01:07:33,318 "I'm finished." "I'm finished."
1418 01:07:33,318 01:07:35,985 (placid music) (placid music)
1419 01:07:44,360 01:07:47,823 I suppose I look at Toni Kurz and the manner of his death, I suppose I look at Toni Kurz and the manner of his death,
1420 01:07:48,970 01:07:51,914 and I know that that should have been me. and I know that that should have been me.
1421 01:07:51,914 01:07:52,747 (placid music) (placid music)
1422 01:07:52,747 01:07:54,543 That his story should have been mine. That his story should have been mine.
1423 01:07:54,543 01:07:56,050 (placid music) (placid music)
1424 01:07:56,050 01:08:00,946 In truth, I should have died on a rope in Peru. In truth, I should have died on a rope in Peru.
1425 01:08:00,946 01:08:02,710 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1426 01:08:02,710 01:08:04,760 And that will never be explainable to me, And that will never be explainable to me,
1427 01:08:05,650 01:08:09,778 why I was allowed to live and he wasn't. why I was allowed to live and he wasn't.
1428 01:08:09,778 01:08:12,390 (placid music) (placid music)
1429 01:08:12,390 01:08:14,800 - [Steven] The rescuers who watched Kurz die, - [Steven] The rescuers who watched Kurz die,
1430 01:08:14,800 01:08:16,775 were never able to reach his body. were never able to reach his body.
1431 01:08:16,775 01:08:18,270 (placid music) (placid music)
1432 01:08:18,270 01:08:20,820 He was finally cut free by a team of mountain guides He was finally cut free by a team of mountain guides
1433 01:08:20,820 01:08:21,989 from Germany. from Germany.
1434 01:08:21,989 01:08:22,900 (placid music) (placid music)
1435 01:08:22,900 01:08:25,748 Who arrived just too late to help in the rescue. Who arrived just too late to help in the rescue.
1436 01:08:25,748 01:08:28,320 (placid music) (placid music)
1437 01:08:28,320 01:08:30,040 Three days after his death, Three days after his death,
1438 01:08:30,040 01:08:32,170 the Swiss authorities banned all climbers the Swiss authorities banned all climbers
1439 01:08:32,170 01:08:35,500 from the north face, but four months later, from the north face, but four months later,
1440 01:08:35,500 01:08:38,498 after a legal challenge, the ban was lifted. after a legal challenge, the ban was lifted.
1441 01:08:38,498 01:08:39,860 (placid music) (placid music)
1442 01:08:39,860 01:08:41,670 For ambitious young climbers, For ambitious young climbers,
1443 01:08:41,670 01:08:43,660 another public tragedy had only added another public tragedy had only added
1444 01:08:43,660 01:08:45,407 to the legend of the Eiger. to the legend of the Eiger.
1445 01:08:45,407 01:08:48,430 (placid music) (placid music)
1446 01:08:48,430 01:08:50,610 Toni Kurz and his fellow climbers, Toni Kurz and his fellow climbers,
1447 01:08:50,610 01:08:52,510 Edi Rainer and Willy Angerer, Edi Rainer and Willy Angerer,
1448 01:08:52,510 01:08:55,700 had watched as Andreas Hinterstoisser unlocked the heart had watched as Andreas Hinterstoisser unlocked the heart
1449 01:08:55,700 01:08:56,879 of the north face. of the north face.
1450 01:08:56,879 01:08:57,830 (placid music) (placid music)
1451 01:08:57,830 01:09:00,080 In honor of his brilliant climb, In honor of his brilliant climb,
1452 01:09:00,080 01:09:03,096 it was called the Hinterstoisser Traverse. it was called the Hinterstoisser Traverse.
1453 01:09:03,096 01:09:05,330 (placid music) (placid music)
1454 01:09:05,330 01:09:07,980 And using that route, a team of German climbers And using that route, a team of German climbers
1455 01:09:07,980 01:09:11,936 made the first ascent two years later in 1938. made the first ascent two years later in 1938.
1456 01:09:11,936 01:09:12,769 (placid music) (placid music)
1457 01:09:12,769 01:09:15,690 In all, eight climbers died trying In all, eight climbers died trying
1458 01:09:15,690 01:09:19,492 before the last great north face of the Alps was conquered. before the last great north face of the Alps was conquered.
1459 01:09:19,492 01:09:22,630 (placid music) (placid music)
1460 01:09:22,630 01:09:26,276 Of all of them, Toni Kurz proved the hardest to forget. Of all of them, Toni Kurz proved the hardest to forget.
1461 01:09:26,276 01:09:27,410 (wind blowing) (wind blowing)
1462 01:09:27,410 01:09:29,600 As Joe prepared to head home, As Joe prepared to head home,
1463 01:09:29,600 01:09:32,110 he made one last climb to look across he made one last climb to look across
1464 01:09:32,110 01:09:33,986 to the mountain where he died. to the mountain where he died.
1465 01:09:33,986 01:09:37,180 (wind howling) (wind howling)
1466 01:09:37,180 01:09:40,203 - I read the story of Toni Kurz at 14. - I read the story of Toni Kurz at 14.
1467 01:09:41,310 01:09:43,863 It stuck with me for the rest of my life. It stuck with me for the rest of my life.
1468 01:09:43,863 01:09:44,930 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1469 01:09:44,930 01:09:49,412 That to me just seems the most dreadful way to die. That to me just seems the most dreadful way to die.
1470 01:09:49,412 01:09:53,079 (placid music) (Joe panting) (placid music) (Joe panting)
1471 01:09:53,079 01:09:55,111 And yet, somehow, it inspired me. And yet, somehow, it inspired me.
1472 01:09:55,111 01:09:58,100 (placid music) (placid music)
1473 01:09:58,100 01:09:59,980 Why on earth would that inspire you to climb? Why on earth would that inspire you to climb?
1474 01:09:59,980 01:10:04,740 Well, because he never gave up. Well, because he never gave up.
1475 01:10:04,740 01:10:06,110 (placid music) (placid music)
1476 01:10:06,110 01:10:10,081 Right to the end, he thought he could win through. Right to the end, he thought he could win through.
1477 01:10:10,081 01:10:11,570 (placid music) (placid music)
1478 01:10:11,570 01:10:14,410 He display to me something quite extraordinary He display to me something quite extraordinary
1479 01:10:14,410 01:10:17,610 about the human spirit, the ability to just, about the human spirit, the ability to just,
1480 01:10:17,610 01:10:19,720 despite anything that's happening to you, despite anything that's happening to you,
1481 01:10:19,720 01:10:22,341 to just keep on going. to just keep on going.
1482 01:10:22,341 01:10:23,820 (placid music) (wind howling) (placid music) (wind howling)
1483 01:10:23,820 01:10:26,668 And he deserved to survive, he deserved to live. And he deserved to survive, he deserved to live.
1484 01:10:26,668 01:10:29,640 (placid music) (placid music)
1485 01:10:29,640 01:10:31,380 The photograph I always remember The photograph I always remember
1486 01:10:32,370 01:10:36,510 is of a young, smiling, tussle haired guide, is of a young, smiling, tussle haired guide,
1487 01:10:36,510 01:10:37,650 laughing at the camera laughing at the camera
1488 01:10:37,650 01:10:39,728 with the adventure of the climb ahead of him. with the adventure of the climb ahead of him.
1489 01:10:39,728 01:10:41,660 (placid music) (placid music)
1490 01:10:41,660 01:10:45,329 And I thought, he thought that was worth living for. And I thought, he thought that was worth living for.
1491 01:10:45,329 01:10:46,370 (placid music) (placid music)
1492 01:10:46,370 01:10:48,437 I better go and try and see if I can do that. I better go and try and see if I can do that.
1493 01:10:48,437 01:10:51,340 (placid music) (placid music)
1494 01:10:51,340 01:10:53,090 If you were going to risk all that, If you were going to risk all that,
1495 01:10:54,470 01:10:58,470 not just risk the hardship and the pain, not just risk the hardship and the pain,
1496 01:10:58,470 01:11:02,973 but risk your life, put everything on the line for a dream, but risk your life, put everything on the line for a dream,
1497 01:11:04,970 01:11:06,263 for something that's worth nothing, for something that's worth nothing,
1498 01:11:06,263 01:11:08,113 that can't be proved to anybody, that can't be proved to anybody,
1499 01:11:09,380 01:11:13,053 you just have the transient moment on a summit. you just have the transient moment on a summit.
1500 01:11:14,510 01:11:17,178 When you come back down to the valley, it goes. When you come back down to the valley, it goes.
1501 01:11:17,178 01:11:18,290 (placid music) (placid music)
1502 01:11:18,290 01:11:22,295 It is actually a completely illogical thing to do. It is actually a completely illogical thing to do.
1503 01:11:22,295 01:11:25,070 (placid music) (placid music)
1504 01:11:25,070 01:11:29,324 It's not justified by any rational terms. It's not justified by any rational terms.
1505 01:11:29,324 01:11:32,150 (placid music) (placid music)
1506 01:11:32,150 01:11:33,775 That's probably why you do it. That's probably why you do it.
1507 01:11:33,775 01:11:38,775 (gear rattling) (placid music) (gear rattling) (placid music)
1508 01:11:41,140 01:11:43,373 My dream is to climb the Eiger. My dream is to climb the Eiger.
1509 01:11:43,373 01:11:44,350 (placid music) (placid music)
1510 01:11:44,350 01:11:46,073 And it just never turned out like that. And it just never turned out like that.
1511 01:11:46,073 01:11:47,230 (placid music) (placid music)
1512 01:11:47,230 01:11:48,963 I haven't climbed for three years. I haven't climbed for three years.
1513 01:11:48,963 01:11:50,550 (placid music) (placid music)
1514 01:11:50,550 01:11:52,324 I lost the passion to do it. I lost the passion to do it.
1515 01:11:52,324 01:11:53,398 (placid music) (placid music)
1516 01:11:53,398 01:11:56,080 I don't have that sort of immortality of youth I don't have that sort of immortality of youth
1517 01:11:56,080 01:11:59,829 that it'll never happen to me, self confidence. that it'll never happen to me, self confidence.
1518 01:11:59,829 01:12:01,720 (placid music) (placid music)
1519 01:12:01,720 01:12:05,318 It's an awareness of frailty I never had when I was 20. It's an awareness of frailty I never had when I was 20.
1520 01:12:05,318 01:12:07,870 (placid music) (train droning) (placid music) (train droning)
1521 01:12:07,870 01:12:09,230 But I'm not saying never, But I'm not saying never,
1522 01:12:09,230 01:12:10,766 'cause I know what am I'm like. 'cause I know what am I'm like.
1523 01:12:10,766 01:12:12,840 (placid music) (placid music)
1524 01:12:12,840 01:12:14,450 And coming back here to do this, And coming back here to do this,
1525 01:12:14,450 01:12:16,120 the face was in perfect condition, the face was in perfect condition,
1526 01:12:16,120 01:12:18,480 and the meadows were like the summer, and the meadows were like the summer,
1527 01:12:18,480 01:12:21,790 I just felt that old rush coming back. I just felt that old rush coming back.
1528 01:12:21,790 01:12:24,373 (placid music) (placid music)
1529 01:12:25,348 01:12:26,639 Oh, God, you idiot. Oh, God, you idiot.
1530 01:12:26,639 01:12:29,306 (placid music) (placid music)