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# | Start | End | Original | Translated |
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1 | 00:00:00,000 | 00:00:05,000 | (wind howling) (Joe panting) | (wind howling) (Joe panting) |
2 | 00:00:09,859 | 00:00:11,340 | - I knew people died in mountains | - I knew people died in mountains |
3 | 00:00:11,340 | 00:00:13,429 | long before I had my accident. | long before I had my accident. |
4 | 00:00:13,429 | 00:00:16,380 | (wind howling) (Joe panting) | (wind howling) (Joe panting) |
5 | 00:00:16,380 | 00:00:20,020 | I sort of understood you were playing a game | I sort of understood you were playing a game |
6 | 00:00:20,020 | 00:00:21,423 | for very high stakes, | for very high stakes, |
7 | 00:00:22,340 | 00:00:25,193 | and you might not actually have a choice over your fate. | and you might not actually have a choice over your fate. |
8 | 00:00:26,051 | 00:00:28,090 | (ice cracking) (wind howling) | (ice cracking) (wind howling) |
9 | 00:00:28,090 | 00:00:31,260 | You'd like to think you control the odds | You'd like to think you control the odds |
10 | 00:00:31,260 | 00:00:33,183 | by your judgment and by your skill, | by your judgment and by your skill, |
11 | 00:00:34,830 | 00:00:36,896 | and that's not exactly true. | and that's not exactly true. |
12 | 00:00:36,896 | 00:00:39,010 | (wind howling) (Joe panting) | (wind howling) (Joe panting) |
13 | 00:00:39,010 | 00:00:40,860 | - [Steven] The climber, Joe Simpson, | - [Steven] The climber, Joe Simpson, |
14 | 00:00:40,860 | 00:00:44,234 | was 25 when he had an accident that nearly killed him. | was 25 when he had an accident that nearly killed him. |
15 | 00:00:44,234 | 00:00:46,110 | (ice crashing) (intense music) | (ice crashing) (intense music) |
16 | 00:00:46,110 | 00:00:48,540 | He wrote a book, "Touching the Void", | He wrote a book, "Touching the Void", |
17 | 00:00:48,540 | 00:00:51,013 | about his extraordinary battle to survive. | about his extraordinary battle to survive. |
18 | 00:00:51,013 | 00:00:53,750 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
19 | 00:00:53,750 | 00:00:56,110 | Now, he is going back to the mountain | Now, he is going back to the mountain |
20 | 00:00:56,110 | 00:00:58,033 | that first inspired him to climb, | that first inspired him to climb, |
21 | 00:00:59,060 | 00:01:02,712 | to tell a story that has haunted him since he was a boy. | to tell a story that has haunted him since he was a boy. |
22 | 00:01:02,712 | 00:01:04,270 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
23 | 00:01:04,270 | 00:01:07,840 | It is the tale of a great adventure, that just like his, | It is the tale of a great adventure, that just like his, |
24 | 00:01:07,840 | 00:01:11,051 | turned into a terrifying test of endurance. | turned into a terrifying test of endurance. |
25 | 00:01:11,051 | 00:01:11,910 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
26 | 00:01:11,910 | 00:01:15,270 | - [Joe] When I was 14, I read the story that stayed with me | - [Joe] When I was 14, I read the story that stayed with me |
27 | 00:01:15,270 | 00:01:17,210 | for the rest of my life. | for the rest of my life. |
28 | 00:01:17,210 | 00:01:19,223 | It was the story of Toni Kurz. | It was the story of Toni Kurz. |
29 | 00:01:19,223 | 00:01:21,020 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
30 | 00:01:21,020 | 00:01:24,930 | It says so many things about friendship, courage, | It says so many things about friendship, courage, |
31 | 00:01:24,930 | 00:01:27,034 | and strength, and human spirit. | and strength, and human spirit. |
32 | 00:01:27,034 | 00:01:28,544 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
33 | 00:01:28,544 | 00:01:29,714 | It inspired me to climb. | It inspired me to climb. |
34 | 00:01:29,714 | 00:01:30,547 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
35 | 00:01:30,547 | 00:01:32,454 | In many ways, it's my story. | In many ways, it's my story. |
36 | 00:01:32,454 | 00:01:35,121 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
37 | 00:01:36,680 | 00:01:40,064 | We thought it was worth risking everything. | We thought it was worth risking everything. |
38 | 00:01:40,064 | 00:01:41,810 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
39 | 00:01:41,810 | 00:01:42,792 | And we did. | And we did. |
40 | 00:01:42,792 | 00:01:47,792 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
41 | 00:01:54,176 | 00:01:58,810 | (traffic droning) (sirens ringing) | (traffic droning) (sirens ringing) |
42 | 00:01:58,810 | 00:02:00,755 | I've spent my life climbing mountains. | I've spent my life climbing mountains. |
43 | 00:02:00,755 | 00:02:02,360 | (train droning) (intense music) | (train droning) (intense music) |
44 | 00:02:02,360 | 00:02:04,766 | Climbed difficult mountains, climbed easy mountains. | Climbed difficult mountains, climbed easy mountains. |
45 | 00:02:04,766 | 00:02:06,377 | (train droning) (intense music) | (train droning) (intense music) |
46 | 00:02:06,377 | 00:02:07,577 | And I've climbed all over the world. | And I've climbed all over the world. |
47 | 00:02:07,577 | 00:02:10,697 | (train droning) (intense music) | (train droning) (intense music) |
48 | 00:02:10,697 | 00:02:13,525 | But my dream is always to climb the Eiger. | But my dream is always to climb the Eiger. |
49 | 00:02:13,525 | 00:02:14,960 | (train droning) (intense music) | (train droning) (intense music) |
50 | 00:02:14,960 | 00:02:16,970 | - [Steven] Of all the summits in the Alps, | - [Steven] Of all the summits in the Alps, |
51 | 00:02:16,970 | 00:02:20,595 | the Eiger is the mountain that is a legend among climbers. | the Eiger is the mountain that is a legend among climbers. |
52 | 00:02:20,595 | 00:02:22,410 | (train droning) (intense music) | (train droning) (intense music) |
53 | 00:02:22,410 | 00:02:24,330 | It has fascinated Joe Simpson | It has fascinated Joe Simpson |
54 | 00:02:24,330 | 00:02:26,186 | for as long as he can remember. | for as long as he can remember. |
55 | 00:02:26,186 | 00:02:27,540 | (train droning) (intense music) | (train droning) (intense music) |
56 | 00:02:27,540 | 00:02:29,630 | - It is not the greatest mountain in the world. | - It is not the greatest mountain in the world. |
57 | 00:02:29,630 | 00:02:31,417 | It is not the most beautiful mountain in the world, | It is not the most beautiful mountain in the world, |
58 | 00:02:31,417 | 00:02:34,290 | and the climbing on it is not the hardest, | and the climbing on it is not the hardest, |
59 | 00:02:34,290 | 00:02:35,590 | but to me, anyway, | but to me, anyway, |
60 | 00:02:35,590 | 00:02:37,960 | and I think to many others of our generation, | and I think to many others of our generation, |
61 | 00:02:37,960 | 00:02:39,746 | it's a seminal mountain. | it's a seminal mountain. |
62 | 00:02:39,746 | 00:02:44,370 | (train droning) (intense music) | (train droning) (intense music) |
63 | 00:02:44,370 | 00:02:46,863 | And it has a sort of hypnotic power about it, | And it has a sort of hypnotic power about it, |
64 | 00:02:48,070 | 00:02:52,015 | it has an atmosphere, something truly intimidating. | it has an atmosphere, something truly intimidating. |
65 | 00:02:52,015 | 00:02:53,870 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
66 | 00:02:53,870 | 00:02:56,013 | This brooding presence. | This brooding presence. |
67 | 00:02:56,013 | 00:02:57,430 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
68 | 00:02:57,430 | 00:03:00,643 | The first time you see it, you just look up and up. | The first time you see it, you just look up and up. |
69 | 00:03:01,490 | 00:03:03,292 | And you just thing, "Good God." | And you just thing, "Good God." |
70 | 00:03:03,292 | 00:03:06,500 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
71 | 00:03:06,500 | 00:03:08,840 | - [Steven] From the east, west and south, | - [Steven] From the east, west and south, |
72 | 00:03:08,840 | 00:03:11,009 | the Eiger looks like any other mountain. | the Eiger looks like any other mountain. |
73 | 00:03:11,009 | 00:03:12,370 | (wind howling) (intense music) | (wind howling) (intense music) |
74 | 00:03:12,370 | 00:03:15,148 | It is it's north face that makes it a legend. | It is it's north face that makes it a legend. |
75 | 00:03:15,148 | 00:03:16,770 | (wind howling) (intense music) | (wind howling) (intense music) |
76 | 00:03:16,770 | 00:03:20,300 | A 6,000 foot vertical wall of rock and ice, | A 6,000 foot vertical wall of rock and ice, |
77 | 00:03:20,300 | 00:03:23,770 | it is a place that never gets the sun. | it is a place that never gets the sun. |
78 | 00:03:23,770 | 00:03:27,610 | And standing exposed to every storm sweeping into the Alps, | And standing exposed to every storm sweeping into the Alps, |
79 | 00:03:27,610 | 00:03:29,480 | it is a mountain where the weather can change | it is a mountain where the weather can change |
80 | 00:03:29,480 | 00:03:31,033 | with breathtaking speed. | with breathtaking speed. |
81 | 00:03:32,130 | 00:03:33,940 | - [Joe] I've seen it happen. | - [Joe] I've seen it happen. |
82 | 00:03:33,940 | 00:03:36,440 | I've seen the face turn into a maelstrom | I've seen the face turn into a maelstrom |
83 | 00:03:36,440 | 00:03:39,380 | of rockfall and avalanches, | of rockfall and avalanches, |
84 | 00:03:39,380 | 00:03:42,250 | the like of which I've never witnessed on any mountain | the like of which I've never witnessed on any mountain |
85 | 00:03:42,250 | 00:03:43,481 | in my life. | in my life. |
86 | 00:03:43,481 | 00:03:46,140 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
87 | 00:03:46,140 | 00:03:48,770 | There's something else extraordinary about it, | There's something else extraordinary about it, |
88 | 00:03:48,770 | 00:03:51,577 | that almost heightens the sense of danger. | that almost heightens the sense of danger. |
89 | 00:03:51,577 | 00:03:52,410 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
90 | 00:03:52,410 | 00:03:55,190 | You are so close to luxurious hotels, | You are so close to luxurious hotels, |
91 | 00:03:55,190 | 00:03:57,190 | to people having fun, | to people having fun, |
92 | 00:03:57,190 | 00:03:58,960 | you could hear the excited chatter | you could hear the excited chatter |
93 | 00:03:58,960 | 00:04:00,840 | of tourists getting on and off the trains | of tourists getting on and off the trains |
94 | 00:04:00,840 | 00:04:02,690 | and drinking their beers. | and drinking their beers. |
95 | 00:04:02,690 | 00:04:05,158 | You can see them and they can see you. | You can see them and they can see you. |
96 | 00:04:05,158 | 00:04:10,158 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
97 | 00:04:12,200 | 00:04:13,860 | - [Steven] More than 60 men have died | - [Steven] More than 60 men have died |
98 | 00:04:13,860 | 00:04:15,697 | on the north face of the Eiger. | on the north face of the Eiger. |
99 | 00:04:15,697 | 00:04:16,590 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
100 | 00:04:16,590 | 00:04:18,410 | It has killed some of the best young climbers | It has killed some of the best young climbers |
101 | 00:04:18,410 | 00:04:19,940 | of their generation, | of their generation, |
102 | 00:04:19,940 | 00:04:22,440 | and forced some of the most dramatic mountain rescues | and forced some of the most dramatic mountain rescues |
103 | 00:04:22,440 | 00:04:23,634 | in the Alps. | in the Alps. |
104 | 00:04:23,634 | 00:04:25,410 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
105 | 00:04:25,410 | 00:04:27,200 | And it was this bleak history | And it was this bleak history |
106 | 00:04:27,200 | 00:04:29,713 | that caught Joe's imagination as a boy. | that caught Joe's imagination as a boy. |
107 | 00:04:29,713 | 00:04:32,800 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
108 | 00:04:32,800 | 00:04:35,450 | - My father gave me a book called "The White Spider". | - My father gave me a book called "The White Spider". |
109 | 00:04:36,880 | 00:04:39,892 | It was fascinating and it was frightening. | It was fascinating and it was frightening. |
110 | 00:04:39,892 | 00:04:42,475 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
111 | 00:04:43,400 | 00:04:48,080 | And it was those stories, and one story in particular, | And it was those stories, and one story in particular, |
112 | 00:04:48,080 | 00:04:51,993 | the story of Toni Kurz, that made me want to climb. | the story of Toni Kurz, that made me want to climb. |
113 | 00:04:51,993 | 00:04:54,576 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
114 | 00:04:58,810 | 00:05:00,970 | There's a picture of Kurz sitting in meadow | There's a picture of Kurz sitting in meadow |
115 | 00:05:00,970 | 00:05:03,022 | in the summer of 1936. | in the summer of 1936. |
116 | 00:05:03,022 | 00:05:03,855 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
117 | 00:05:03,855 | 00:05:06,450 | This smiling young man looking at you from the past | This smiling young man looking at you from the past |
118 | 00:05:06,450 | 00:05:08,850 | and he was just a vibrant, | and he was just a vibrant, |
119 | 00:05:08,850 | 00:05:11,823 | energetic, ambitious young climber. | energetic, ambitious young climber. |
120 | 00:05:12,860 | 00:05:16,389 | It was just absolute excitement, it's what he lived for. | It was just absolute excitement, it's what he lived for. |
121 | 00:05:16,389 | 00:05:18,170 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
122 | 00:05:18,170 | 00:05:19,480 | - [Steven] But this is not just a story | - [Steven] But this is not just a story |
123 | 00:05:19,480 | 00:05:21,390 | that inspired Joe to climb. | that inspired Joe to climb. |
124 | 00:05:21,390 | 00:05:23,430 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
125 | 00:05:23,430 | 00:05:25,080 | 11 years after reading of what happened | 11 years after reading of what happened |
126 | 00:05:25,080 | 00:05:26,900 | to Kurz on the Eiger, | to Kurz on the Eiger, |
127 | 00:05:26,900 | 00:05:30,470 | Joe had a climbing accident in Peru that nearly killed him. | Joe had a climbing accident in Peru that nearly killed him. |
128 | 00:05:30,470 | 00:05:33,139 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
129 | 00:05:33,139 | 00:05:35,560 | And what has haunted him ever since | And what has haunted him ever since |
130 | 00:05:35,560 | 00:05:38,420 | is that in strange and disturbing ways, | is that in strange and disturbing ways, |
131 | 00:05:38,420 | 00:05:42,539 | his accident echoed the story of his childhood hero. | his accident echoed the story of his childhood hero. |
132 | 00:05:42,539 | 00:05:44,582 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
133 | 00:05:44,582 | 00:05:46,400 | - [Joe] Kurz was always there. | - [Joe] Kurz was always there. |
134 | 00:05:46,400 | 00:05:48,198 | Kurz was always this figure. | Kurz was always this figure. |
135 | 00:05:48,198 | 00:05:49,740 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
136 | 00:05:49,740 | 00:05:52,928 | But what happened to me in Peru led me back to him. | But what happened to me in Peru led me back to him. |
137 | 00:05:52,928 | 00:05:55,390 | (wind howling) (intense music) | (wind howling) (intense music) |
138 | 00:05:55,390 | 00:05:58,528 | (gear rattling) (intense music) | (gear rattling) (intense music) |
139 | 00:05:58,528 | 00:06:01,070 | (speaking in foreign language) | (speaking in foreign language) |
140 | 00:06:01,070 | 00:06:02,040 | - [Steven] Toni Kurz set out | - [Steven] Toni Kurz set out |
141 | 00:06:02,040 | 00:06:03,810 | to climb the north face of the Eiger | to climb the north face of the Eiger |
142 | 00:06:03,810 | 00:06:06,350 | on the 20th of July, 1936. | on the 20th of July, 1936. |
143 | 00:06:06,350 | 00:06:07,960 | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) |
144 | 00:06:07,960 | 00:06:10,240 | He and his fellow climbers were only the second team | He and his fellow climbers were only the second team |
145 | 00:06:10,240 | 00:06:11,859 | in its history to attempt it. | in its history to attempt it. |
146 | 00:06:11,859 | 00:06:15,010 | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) |
147 | 00:06:15,010 | 00:06:19,622 | Kurz was 23, a newly qualified mountain guide from Bavaria. | Kurz was 23, a newly qualified mountain guide from Bavaria. |
148 | 00:06:19,622 | 00:06:21,200 | (placid music) (gear rattling) | (placid music) (gear rattling) |
149 | 00:06:21,200 | 00:06:23,700 | He was climbing with his friend and fellow guide, | He was climbing with his friend and fellow guide, |
150 | 00:06:23,700 | 00:06:24,890 | a brilliant young rock climber | a brilliant young rock climber |
151 | 00:06:24,890 | 00:06:26,889 | called Andreas Hinterstoisser. | called Andreas Hinterstoisser. |
152 | 00:06:26,889 | 00:06:29,230 | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) |
153 | 00:06:29,230 | 00:06:32,280 | They had joined up on the climb with two Austrians. | They had joined up on the climb with two Austrians. |
154 | 00:06:32,280 | 00:06:35,230 | 27 year old Willy Angerer was the eldest. | 27 year old Willy Angerer was the eldest. |
155 | 00:06:35,230 | 00:06:36,290 | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) |
156 | 00:06:36,290 | 00:06:39,360 | His partner, Edi Rainer, was the most experienced, | His partner, Edi Rainer, was the most experienced, |
157 | 00:06:39,360 | 00:06:42,039 | a highly talented route finder and mountaineer. | a highly talented route finder and mountaineer. |
158 | 00:06:42,039 | 00:06:44,548 | (placid music) (gear rattling) | (placid music) (gear rattling) |
159 | 00:06:44,548 | 00:06:46,150 | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) |
160 | 00:06:46,150 | 00:06:48,650 | Their progress up the north face that day | Their progress up the north face that day |
161 | 00:06:48,650 | 00:06:50,488 | had turned into a public event. | had turned into a public event. |
162 | 00:06:50,488 | 00:06:52,200 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
163 | 00:06:52,200 | 00:06:53,940 | They were being watched from the valley below | They were being watched from the valley below |
164 | 00:06:53,940 | 00:06:57,009 | by a cluster of reporters and tourists. | by a cluster of reporters and tourists. |
165 | 00:06:57,009 | 00:06:58,260 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
166 | 00:06:58,260 | 00:07:01,010 | One by one, in the early 1930s, | One by one, in the early 1930s, |
167 | 00:07:01,010 | 00:07:04,550 | the great north faces of the Alps had been claimed, | the great north faces of the Alps had been claimed, |
168 | 00:07:04,550 | 00:07:06,631 | but the Eiger was still unconquered. | but the Eiger was still unconquered. |
169 | 00:07:06,631 | 00:07:07,650 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
170 | 00:07:07,650 | 00:07:10,760 | It was so difficult, so dangerous, | It was so difficult, so dangerous, |
171 | 00:07:10,760 | 00:07:12,760 | that one climber called it an obsession | that one climber called it an obsession |
172 | 00:07:12,760 | 00:07:14,687 | for the mentally deranged. | for the mentally deranged. |
173 | 00:07:14,687 | 00:07:16,300 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
174 | 00:07:16,300 | 00:07:17,980 | - As you approach the bottom part of the face, | - As you approach the bottom part of the face, |
175 | 00:07:17,980 | 00:07:20,000 | you climb the sheers of shattered rock walls | you climb the sheers of shattered rock walls |
176 | 00:07:20,000 | 00:07:21,810 | and rubble strewn ledgers. | and rubble strewn ledgers. |
177 | 00:07:21,810 | 00:07:23,800 | Then you get under the Rote Fluh. | Then you get under the Rote Fluh. |
178 | 00:07:23,800 | 00:07:25,800 | It's a tiny feature on this face, | It's a tiny feature on this face, |
179 | 00:07:25,800 | 00:07:29,490 | and yet, it's 1,000 feet high, an overhanging wall of rock. | and yet, it's 1,000 feet high, an overhanging wall of rock. |
180 | 00:07:29,490 | 00:07:32,909 | Then around the corner to the edge of the first field. | Then around the corner to the edge of the first field. |
181 | 00:07:32,909 | 00:07:33,742 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
182 | 00:07:33,742 | 00:07:35,753 | The second ice field is this great swath of ice, | The second ice field is this great swath of ice, |
183 | 00:07:35,753 | 00:07:39,500 | 1,800 feet wide, it's steep, it's getting steeper. | 1,800 feet wide, it's steep, it's getting steeper. |
184 | 00:07:39,500 | 00:07:41,640 | And every time from now on that you get onto rock, | And every time from now on that you get onto rock, |
185 | 00:07:41,640 | 00:07:43,800 | it's getting steeper and steeper. | it's getting steeper and steeper. |
186 | 00:07:43,800 | 00:07:46,280 | Until you get right to the base of the great ice shoot, | Until you get right to the base of the great ice shoot, |
187 | 00:07:46,280 | 00:07:47,653 | called the White Spider. | called the White Spider. |
188 | 00:07:48,490 | 00:07:51,090 | If you fell at this point, you would zip out into space. | If you fell at this point, you would zip out into space. |
189 | 00:07:51,090 | 00:07:53,752 | You probably wouldn't touch anything for 5,000 feet. | You probably wouldn't touch anything for 5,000 feet. |
190 | 00:07:53,752 | 00:07:55,490 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
191 | 00:07:55,490 | 00:07:57,840 | - [Steven] It was the scale of this vertical rock face | - [Steven] It was the scale of this vertical rock face |
192 | 00:07:57,840 | 00:08:00,541 | that defeated the first climbers to attempt it. | that defeated the first climbers to attempt it. |
193 | 00:08:00,541 | 00:08:02,710 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
194 | 00:08:02,710 | 00:08:06,260 | Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer set of in the summer | Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer set of in the summer |
195 | 00:08:06,260 | 00:08:07,616 | of the previous year. | of the previous year. |
196 | 00:08:07,616 | 00:08:08,449 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
197 | 00:08:08,449 | 00:08:12,050 | Three days into their climb, a storm hit the face. | Three days into their climb, a storm hit the face. |
198 | 00:08:12,050 | 00:08:15,570 | The men were seen trying to climb up and out to safety. | The men were seen trying to climb up and out to safety. |
199 | 00:08:15,570 | 00:08:19,130 | But on the fifth day, they disappeared. | But on the fifth day, they disappeared. |
200 | 00:08:19,130 | 00:08:22,030 | Sedlmeyer's body was found frozen into the ice | Sedlmeyer's body was found frozen into the ice |
201 | 00:08:22,030 | 00:08:25,018 | at a place now called Death Bivouac. | at a place now called Death Bivouac. |
202 | 00:08:25,018 | 00:08:27,490 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
203 | 00:08:27,490 | 00:08:29,680 | It was a very controversial tragedy. | It was a very controversial tragedy. |
204 | 00:08:29,680 | 00:08:30,513 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
205 | 00:08:30,513 | 00:08:32,983 | Climbers had died on many mountains in the Alps, | Climbers had died on many mountains in the Alps, |
206 | 00:08:32,983 | 00:08:35,349 | but not in full view of the public. | but not in full view of the public. |
207 | 00:08:35,349 | 00:08:36,800 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
208 | 00:08:36,800 | 00:08:39,680 | The north face was called a suicidal challenge. | The north face was called a suicidal challenge. |
209 | 00:08:39,680 | 00:08:42,557 | There was talk of banning it to climbers. | There was talk of banning it to climbers. |
210 | 00:08:42,557 | 00:08:45,380 | But the following summer, Kurz and his friends arrived, | But the following summer, Kurz and his friends arrived, |
211 | 00:08:45,380 | 00:08:49,130 | ambitious young climbers chasing a great first ascent. | ambitious young climbers chasing a great first ascent. |
212 | 00:08:49,130 | 00:08:52,018 | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) |
213 | 00:08:52,018 | 00:08:53,600 | - They wanted to do it for the same reason we did, | - They wanted to do it for the same reason we did, |
214 | 00:08:53,600 | 00:08:55,940 | to see if it was possible. | to see if it was possible. |
215 | 00:08:55,940 | 00:08:58,410 | You don't feel like you ever have to justify yourself | You don't feel like you ever have to justify yourself |
216 | 00:08:58,410 | 00:08:59,740 | to anybody else. | to anybody else. |
217 | 00:08:59,740 | 00:09:00,840 | You go and do these things | You go and do these things |
218 | 00:09:00,840 | 00:09:03,560 | and if other people think you're stupid or irresponsible, | and if other people think you're stupid or irresponsible, |
219 | 00:09:03,560 | 00:09:05,255 | you don't give a damn. | you don't give a damn. |
220 | 00:09:05,255 | 00:09:07,230 | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) |
221 | 00:09:07,230 | 00:09:09,447 | And I suppose as a young boy, I just thought, | And I suppose as a young boy, I just thought, |
222 | 00:09:09,447 | 00:09:12,407 | "God, what an extraordinary thing to do." | "God, what an extraordinary thing to do." |
223 | 00:09:13,420 | 00:09:16,410 | Not just a brave thing to do, an extraordinary thing to do. | Not just a brave thing to do, an extraordinary thing to do. |
224 | 00:09:16,410 | 00:09:17,997 | To look at a face like that | To look at a face like that |
225 | 00:09:17,997 | 00:09:20,207 | and just think, "I'm good enough. | and just think, "I'm good enough. |
226 | 00:09:20,207 | 00:09:22,450 | "I will climb this, I will succeed." | "I will climb this, I will succeed." |
227 | 00:09:22,450 | 00:09:24,661 | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) |
228 | 00:09:24,661 | 00:09:29,661 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
229 | 00:09:33,490 | 00:09:34,950 | - [Steven] But there was a reason people said | - [Steven] But there was a reason people said |
230 | 00:09:34,950 | 00:09:37,270 | the north face was impossible. | the north face was impossible. |
231 | 00:09:37,270 | 00:09:40,283 | Confidence and optimism do not protect you on this mountain. | Confidence and optimism do not protect you on this mountain. |
232 | 00:09:41,860 | 00:09:44,040 | And what happened to these four young climbers | And what happened to these four young climbers |
233 | 00:09:44,040 | 00:09:45,740 | over the next five days | over the next five days |
234 | 00:09:45,740 | 00:09:47,810 | proved beyond doubt that the Eiger | proved beyond doubt that the Eiger |
235 | 00:09:47,810 | 00:09:51,848 | was every bit as frightening as its reputation suggested. | was every bit as frightening as its reputation suggested. |
236 | 00:09:51,848 | 00:09:56,848 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
237 | 00:09:58,006 | 00:10:00,839 | (snow thundering) | (snow thundering) |
238 | 00:10:05,440 | 00:10:07,310 | The risk of an unexpected avalanche | The risk of an unexpected avalanche |
239 | 00:10:07,310 | 00:10:09,218 | is always present in the Alps. | is always present in the Alps. |
240 | 00:10:09,218 | 00:10:11,710 | (snow thundering) | (snow thundering) |
241 | 00:10:11,710 | 00:10:15,330 | Unstable ice and snow, the threat of sudden storms | Unstable ice and snow, the threat of sudden storms |
242 | 00:10:15,330 | 00:10:17,367 | are what make these mountains dangerous. | are what make these mountains dangerous. |
243 | 00:10:17,367 | 00:10:20,200 | (snow thundering) | (snow thundering) |
244 | 00:10:21,340 | 00:10:23,590 | Joe has been waiting for days for a weather window | Joe has been waiting for days for a weather window |
245 | 00:10:23,590 | 00:10:25,440 | to climb on the Eiger. | to climb on the Eiger. |
246 | 00:10:25,440 | 00:10:28,690 | Local mountain guides advised that heavy snowfall | Local mountain guides advised that heavy snowfall |
247 | 00:10:28,690 | 00:10:31,470 | and the unpredictable weather made it too great a risk | and the unpredictable weather made it too great a risk |
248 | 00:10:31,470 | 00:10:33,823 | for him and his climbing partner, Cubby. | for him and his climbing partner, Cubby. |
249 | 00:10:33,823 | 00:10:35,530 | - [Man] In the summer, you have sun in the top of the ramp. | - [Man] In the summer, you have sun in the top of the ramp. |
250 | 00:10:35,530 | 00:10:37,200 | - [Steven] The Eiger is a mountain Joe has dreamt | - [Steven] The Eiger is a mountain Joe has dreamt |
251 | 00:10:37,200 | 00:10:38,733 | of climbing all his life. | of climbing all his life. |
252 | 00:10:39,740 | 00:10:43,169 | But bad luck and bad injuries have intervened each time. | But bad luck and bad injuries have intervened each time. |
253 | 00:10:43,169 | 00:10:44,020 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
254 | 00:10:44,020 | 00:10:46,880 | - This mountain, it's quite addictive. | - This mountain, it's quite addictive. |
255 | 00:10:46,880 | 00:10:48,253 | But it will blow off, won't it? | But it will blow off, won't it? |
256 | 00:10:48,253 | 00:10:49,400 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
257 | 00:10:49,400 | 00:10:52,400 | I've made six attempts on the face, | I've made six attempts on the face, |
258 | 00:10:52,400 | 00:10:54,479 | then got bad weather every single time. | then got bad weather every single time. |
259 | 00:10:54,479 | 00:10:55,960 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
260 | 00:10:55,960 | 00:10:57,743 | But it calls you. | But it calls you. |
261 | 00:10:59,670 | 00:11:01,230 | I sort of had this phrase, | I sort of had this phrase, |
262 | 00:11:01,230 | 00:11:02,960 | the beckoning silence of great height. | the beckoning silence of great height. |
263 | 00:11:02,960 | 00:11:05,650 | And what I was meaning by that was this, | And what I was meaning by that was this, |
264 | 00:11:05,650 | 00:11:08,103 | when you stand on the edge of a great drop, | when you stand on the edge of a great drop, |
265 | 00:11:09,460 | 00:11:13,013 | it's very difficult not to be absolutely staggered by it. | it's very difficult not to be absolutely staggered by it. |
266 | 00:11:14,470 | 00:11:16,970 | When you look at a face like that and you're most near, | When you look at a face like that and you're most near, |
267 | 00:11:16,970 | 00:11:21,204 | you just want to go up there and play games on it. | you just want to go up there and play games on it. |
268 | 00:11:21,204 | 00:11:23,360 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
269 | 00:11:23,360 | 00:11:25,480 | - [Steven] Joe is here to retrace key sections | - [Steven] Joe is here to retrace key sections |
270 | 00:11:25,480 | 00:11:27,880 | of the route that Toni Kurz and his friends | of the route that Toni Kurz and his friends |
271 | 00:11:27,880 | 00:11:31,518 | took up the north face in the summer of 1936. | took up the north face in the summer of 1936. |
272 | 00:11:31,518 | 00:11:35,060 | (train droning) (wind howling) | (train droning) (wind howling) |
273 | 00:11:35,060 | 00:11:36,890 | He will do the climb in stages, | He will do the climb in stages, |
274 | 00:11:36,890 | 00:11:40,340 | and for the first, he has an easy shortcut to a point, | and for the first, he has an easy shortcut to a point, |
275 | 00:11:40,340 | 00:11:42,289 | a third of the way up the face. | a third of the way up the face. |
276 | 00:11:42,289 | 00:11:43,860 | (train droning) | (train droning) |
277 | 00:11:43,860 | 00:11:46,958 | Because the Eiger has one other unusual feature. | Because the Eiger has one other unusual feature. |
278 | 00:11:46,958 | 00:11:48,450 | (train droning) | (train droning) |
279 | 00:11:48,450 | 00:11:50,130 | In the late 19th century, | In the late 19th century, |
280 | 00:11:50,130 | 00:11:52,280 | the Swiss government built a railway tunnel | the Swiss government built a railway tunnel |
281 | 00:11:53,130 | 00:11:54,988 | right up the middle of the mountain. | right up the middle of the mountain. |
282 | 00:11:54,988 | 00:11:57,790 | (train droning) | (train droning) |
283 | 00:11:57,790 | 00:11:59,300 | Half way up the track, | Half way up the track, |
284 | 00:11:59,300 | 00:12:02,393 | a small access window was drilled through the mountain wall. | a small access window was drilled through the mountain wall. |
285 | 00:12:03,250 | 00:12:06,281 | It opens directly onto the north face of the Eiger. | It opens directly onto the north face of the Eiger. |
286 | 00:12:06,281 | 00:12:07,340 | (train droning) | (train droning) |
287 | 00:12:07,340 | 00:12:09,130 | - There's such psychological baggage | - There's such psychological baggage |
288 | 00:12:09,130 | 00:12:11,537 | that it brings with it, this face. | that it brings with it, this face. |
289 | 00:12:11,537 | 00:12:13,010 | All the stories that you've heard, | All the stories that you've heard, |
290 | 00:12:13,010 | 00:12:17,500 | all the possible ways you can get hurt or trapped or killed. | all the possible ways you can get hurt or trapped or killed. |
291 | 00:12:17,500 | 00:12:20,526 | And you can't get those out your head. | And you can't get those out your head. |
292 | 00:12:20,526 | 00:12:23,193 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
293 | 00:12:29,126 | 00:12:34,126 | (wind howling) (gear rattling) | (wind howling) (gear rattling) |
294 | 00:12:36,582 | 00:12:41,580 | It's quite a surreal sensation, starting a climb like this. | It's quite a surreal sensation, starting a climb like this. |
295 | 00:12:41,580 | 00:12:45,691 | It's not often that you climb out a nice, warm train. | It's not often that you climb out a nice, warm train. |
296 | 00:12:45,691 | 00:12:46,820 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
297 | 00:12:46,820 | 00:12:48,782 | And then just suddenly step out of a tunnel. | And then just suddenly step out of a tunnel. |
298 | 00:12:48,782 | 00:12:50,630 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
299 | 00:12:50,630 | 00:12:53,211 | And you're just 1,500 feet up the north face of the Eiger. | And you're just 1,500 feet up the north face of the Eiger. |
300 | 00:12:53,211 | 00:12:56,550 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
301 | 00:12:56,550 | 00:13:00,173 | When you're suddenly exposed to an abyss like that, | When you're suddenly exposed to an abyss like that, |
302 | 00:13:01,290 | 00:13:05,141 | it's impossible not to be aware of the sense of the drop. | it's impossible not to be aware of the sense of the drop. |
303 | 00:13:05,141 | 00:13:06,461 | (Joe panting) | (Joe panting) |
304 | 00:13:06,461 | 00:13:10,140 | The sense of the fall line below you. | The sense of the fall line below you. |
305 | 00:13:10,140 | 00:13:12,680 | And it's quite a strange game it plays on you | And it's quite a strange game it plays on you |
306 | 00:13:12,680 | 00:13:17,050 | because this drop isn't actually doing you any harm at all. | because this drop isn't actually doing you any harm at all. |
307 | 00:13:17,050 | 00:13:18,381 | It's just there. | It's just there. |
308 | 00:13:18,381 | 00:13:20,640 | (Joe panting) | (Joe panting) |
309 | 00:13:20,640 | 00:13:22,849 | But it gets in your head. | But it gets in your head. |
310 | 00:13:22,849 | 00:13:24,475 | (Joe panting) | (Joe panting) |
311 | 00:13:24,475 | 00:13:27,142 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
312 | 00:13:31,057 | 00:13:35,400 | About same time I started reading the story of Toni Kurz, | About same time I started reading the story of Toni Kurz, |
313 | 00:13:35,400 | 00:13:37,081 | I started rock climbing. | I started rock climbing. |
314 | 00:13:37,081 | 00:13:37,950 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
315 | 00:13:37,950 | 00:13:40,500 | It was just like that's what I've been looking for. | It was just like that's what I've been looking for. |
316 | 00:13:41,532 | 00:13:43,360 | And I found that, although it was a bit frightening, | And I found that, although it was a bit frightening, |
317 | 00:13:43,360 | 00:13:45,520 | if you knew what you were doing, | if you knew what you were doing, |
318 | 00:13:45,520 | 00:13:46,900 | you could get rid of the fear. | you could get rid of the fear. |
319 | 00:13:46,900 | 00:13:48,730 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
320 | 00:13:48,730 | 00:13:50,773 | That was almost an addiction really. | That was almost an addiction really. |
321 | 00:13:52,030 | 00:13:53,050 | It always had to have | It always had to have |
322 | 00:13:53,050 | 00:13:57,110 | that mixture of apprehension and exhilaration, | that mixture of apprehension and exhilaration, |
323 | 00:13:57,110 | 00:13:58,353 | fear and excitement. | fear and excitement. |
324 | 00:13:59,420 | 00:14:02,309 | And then, you want to test yourself more and more. | And then, you want to test yourself more and more. |
325 | 00:14:02,309 | 00:14:04,030 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
326 | 00:14:04,030 | 00:14:06,170 | You want to go and do a first ascent, | You want to go and do a first ascent, |
327 | 00:14:06,170 | 00:14:07,473 | go and climb something | go and climb something |
328 | 00:14:07,473 | 00:14:10,599 | with the extreme ability that you have. | with the extreme ability that you have. |
329 | 00:14:10,599 | 00:14:12,830 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
330 | 00:14:12,830 | 00:14:14,580 | That's how you lived. | That's how you lived. |
331 | 00:14:14,580 | 00:14:15,620 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
332 | 00:14:15,620 | 00:14:18,600 | And I didn't really realize how obsessive I became | And I didn't really realize how obsessive I became |
333 | 00:14:18,600 | 00:14:20,950 | until many years later when my mother had died, | until many years later when my mother had died, |
334 | 00:14:22,050 | 00:14:23,880 | I was given a bundle of postcards | I was given a bundle of postcards |
335 | 00:14:23,880 | 00:14:27,270 | that I'd sent to her 20 years or so before. | that I'd sent to her 20 years or so before. |
336 | 00:14:27,270 | 00:14:29,993 | And I didn't recognize my former self. | And I didn't recognize my former self. |
337 | 00:14:30,850 | 00:14:32,890 | So, it was this is utterly driven person | So, it was this is utterly driven person |
338 | 00:14:32,890 | 00:14:35,090 | who was completely obsessed. | who was completely obsessed. |
339 | 00:14:35,090 | 00:14:36,310 | There was nothing on the cards | There was nothing on the cards |
340 | 00:14:36,310 | 00:14:39,610 | about anything other than mountains and grades and routes, | about anything other than mountains and grades and routes, |
341 | 00:14:39,610 | 00:14:41,979 | which would have meant absolutely nothing to my parents. | which would have meant absolutely nothing to my parents. |
342 | 00:14:41,979 | 00:14:42,820 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
343 | 00:14:42,820 | 00:14:44,760 | And it was all written in tiny letters, | And it was all written in tiny letters, |
344 | 00:14:44,760 | 00:14:46,770 | all around the postcard, and there was only a little square | all around the postcard, and there was only a little square |
345 | 00:14:46,770 | 00:14:48,228 | in the middle for the address. | in the middle for the address. |
346 | 00:14:48,228 | 00:14:49,610 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
347 | 00:14:49,610 | 00:14:52,560 | Perhaps you have to become a little obsessive | Perhaps you have to become a little obsessive |
348 | 00:14:52,560 | 00:14:54,778 | to do something to that degree. | to do something to that degree. |
349 | 00:14:54,778 | 00:14:59,778 | (placid music) (Joe panting) | (placid music) (Joe panting) |
350 | 00:15:04,285 | 00:15:05,118 | - [Steven] At a point a third | - [Steven] At a point a third |
351 | 00:15:05,118 | 00:15:06,700 | of the way up the north face, | of the way up the north face, |
352 | 00:15:06,700 | 00:15:10,060 | the route of Toni Kurz's ambitious attempt on mountain, | the route of Toni Kurz's ambitious attempt on mountain, |
353 | 00:15:10,060 | 00:15:12,710 | brings Joe within sight of a place | brings Joe within sight of a place |
354 | 00:15:12,710 | 00:15:14,703 | that is notorious amongst climbers. | that is notorious amongst climbers. |
355 | 00:15:15,866 | 00:15:18,400 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
356 | 00:15:18,400 | 00:15:20,740 | At first, Kurz and his three friends | At first, Kurz and his three friends |
357 | 00:15:20,740 | 00:15:23,060 | made rapid progress up the face, | made rapid progress up the face, |
358 | 00:15:23,060 | 00:15:26,476 | climbing 1,500 feet on the morning of their first day. | climbing 1,500 feet on the morning of their first day. |
359 | 00:15:26,476 | 00:15:28,880 | (speaking in foreign language) (eerie music) | (speaking in foreign language) (eerie music) |
360 | 00:15:28,880 | 00:15:31,230 | But then they were stopped in their tracks | But then they were stopped in their tracks |
361 | 00:15:31,230 | 00:15:33,751 | by a smooth slab of polished rock. | by a smooth slab of polished rock. |
362 | 00:15:33,751 | 00:15:36,700 | (eerie music) (wind howling) | (eerie music) (wind howling) |
363 | 00:15:36,700 | 00:15:37,931 | - Toni. | - Toni. |
364 | 00:15:37,931 | 00:15:40,760 | (eerie music) (wind howling) | (eerie music) (wind howling) |
365 | 00:15:40,760 | 00:15:42,830 | - [Steven] The climbers had mapped out a new route, | - [Steven] The climbers had mapped out a new route, |
366 | 00:15:42,830 | 00:15:44,840 | gambling that the fastest way up the face | gambling that the fastest way up the face |
367 | 00:15:44,840 | 00:15:46,980 | was to follow the path of the great ice fields | was to follow the path of the great ice fields |
368 | 00:15:46,980 | 00:15:48,340 | at its center. | at its center. |
369 | 00:15:48,340 | 00:15:50,550 | Their plan was to aim for the left hand corner | Their plan was to aim for the left hand corner |
370 | 00:15:50,550 | 00:15:52,753 | of the vast rock wall, the Rote Fluh, | of the vast rock wall, the Rote Fluh, |
371 | 00:15:53,680 | 00:15:56,910 | and sneak across to the bottom of the first ice field. | and sneak across to the bottom of the first ice field. |
372 | 00:15:56,910 | 00:15:58,710 | But it was at this critical point | But it was at this critical point |
373 | 00:15:58,710 | 00:16:01,475 | that the rock barrier blocked their path. | that the rock barrier blocked their path. |
374 | 00:16:01,475 | 00:16:04,290 | (eerie music) (wind howling) | (eerie music) (wind howling) |
375 | 00:16:04,290 | 00:16:09,043 | - This section here, it's only about 15 feet maximum. | - This section here, it's only about 15 feet maximum. |
376 | 00:16:09,920 | 00:16:11,493 | It's incredibly smooth. | It's incredibly smooth. |
377 | 00:16:13,090 | 00:16:16,370 | You can just see by all the crampon scratches all over it, | You can just see by all the crampon scratches all over it, |
378 | 00:16:16,370 | 00:16:17,883 | people have had trouble here. | people have had trouble here. |
379 | 00:16:17,883 | 00:16:21,190 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
380 | 00:16:21,190 | 00:16:24,060 | It's a quite a wake up drop below, it's mine. | It's a quite a wake up drop below, it's mine. |
381 | 00:16:24,060 | 00:16:26,734 | Probably about 2,000 feet straight down. | Probably about 2,000 feet straight down. |
382 | 00:16:26,734 | 00:16:29,513 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
383 | 00:16:29,513 | 00:16:32,343 | And up here is a very old peg. | And up here is a very old peg. |
384 | 00:16:32,343 | 00:16:34,580 | (wind howling) (eerie music) | (wind howling) (eerie music) |
385 | 00:16:34,580 | 00:16:38,600 | I reckon what Hinterstoisser is he climbed up these ledges, | I reckon what Hinterstoisser is he climbed up these ledges, |
386 | 00:16:38,600 | 00:16:40,903 | put that peg in and clipped his rope in it. | put that peg in and clipped his rope in it. |
387 | 00:16:42,160 | 00:16:43,183 | - [Andreas] Okay. | - [Andreas] Okay. |
388 | 00:16:43,183 | 00:16:47,000 | - With the advantage of the rope above Him, | - With the advantage of the rope above Him, |
389 | 00:16:47,000 | 00:16:49,570 | he could sort of do a downward traverse | he could sort of do a downward traverse |
390 | 00:16:49,570 | 00:16:52,040 | across these very smooth slabs, | across these very smooth slabs, |
391 | 00:16:52,040 | 00:16:55,490 | being given tension by his companions. | being given tension by his companions. |
392 | 00:16:55,490 | 00:16:56,586 | - [Andreas] Okay. | - [Andreas] Okay. |
393 | 00:16:56,586 | 00:17:01,586 | (gear rattling) (intense music) | (gear rattling) (intense music) |
394 | 00:17:05,176 | 00:17:06,080 | - [Joe] Hinterstoisser knew he | - [Joe] Hinterstoisser knew he |
395 | 00:17:06,080 | 00:17:07,570 | was the best rock climber there, | was the best rock climber there, |
396 | 00:17:07,570 | 00:17:10,025 | he was the only one who could do this. | he was the only one who could do this. |
397 | 00:17:10,025 | 00:17:11,230 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
398 | 00:17:11,230 | 00:17:14,670 | But if he falls off, he's gonna take a huge swing | But if he falls off, he's gonna take a huge swing |
399 | 00:17:14,670 | 00:17:16,243 | and be hanging underneath. | and be hanging underneath. |
400 | 00:17:17,472 | 00:17:21,353 | (rock grinding) (gear rattling) | (rock grinding) (gear rattling) |
401 | 00:17:21,353 | 00:17:24,850 | (Andreas panting) (intense music) | (Andreas panting) (intense music) |
402 | 00:17:24,850 | 00:17:27,370 | - [Steven] Edging sideways and a step by step traverse | - [Steven] Edging sideways and a step by step traverse |
403 | 00:17:27,370 | 00:17:29,420 | across this near vertical rock | across this near vertical rock |
404 | 00:17:29,420 | 00:17:31,740 | is still so difficult and dangerous | is still so difficult and dangerous |
405 | 00:17:31,740 | 00:17:35,116 | that climbers today always leave a fixed rope in place. | that climbers today always leave a fixed rope in place. |
406 | 00:17:35,116 | 00:17:37,117 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
407 | 00:17:37,117 | 00:17:39,410 | But Hinterstoisser was climbing rock | But Hinterstoisser was climbing rock |
408 | 00:17:39,410 | 00:17:41,600 | no one had touched before. | no one had touched before. |
409 | 00:17:41,600 | 00:17:43,450 | And he was climbing into the unknown. | And he was climbing into the unknown. |
410 | 00:17:44,420 | 00:17:46,560 | He had no way of telling what lay out of sight | He had no way of telling what lay out of sight |
411 | 00:17:46,560 | 00:17:47,785 | around the corner. | around the corner. |
412 | 00:17:47,785 | 00:17:52,785 | (gear rattling) (wind howling) | (gear rattling) (wind howling) |
413 | 00:18:12,551 | 00:18:13,384 | (shouting in foreign language) | (shouting in foreign language) |
414 | 00:18:13,384 | 00:18:18,384 | (gear rattling) (wind howling) | (gear rattling) (wind howling) |
415 | 00:18:24,709 | 00:18:27,856 | - Toni, (shouts in foreign language)! | - Toni, (shouts in foreign language)! |
416 | 00:18:27,856 | 00:18:30,341 | (speaking in foreign language) | (speaking in foreign language) |
417 | 00:18:30,341 | 00:18:35,341 | (placid music) (gear rattling) | (placid music) (gear rattling) |
418 | 00:18:38,500 | 00:18:40,512 | - [Steven] It was virtuoso a piece of climbing. | - [Steven] It was virtuoso a piece of climbing. |
419 | 00:18:40,512 | 00:18:42,500 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
420 | 00:18:42,500 | 00:18:44,800 | Crossing this 100 foot stretch of rock | Crossing this 100 foot stretch of rock |
421 | 00:18:44,800 | 00:18:47,176 | had unlocked the heart of the face. | had unlocked the heart of the face. |
422 | 00:18:47,176 | 00:18:49,200 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
423 | 00:18:49,200 | 00:18:51,300 | With the security of the rope in place, | With the security of the rope in place, |
424 | 00:18:51,300 | 00:18:53,536 | his friends could cross one by one. | his friends could cross one by one. |
425 | 00:18:53,536 | 00:18:55,250 | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) |
426 | 00:18:55,250 | 00:18:57,460 | And all of them knew it was possible | And all of them knew it was possible |
427 | 00:18:57,460 | 00:19:00,347 | that nothing as difficult as this lay between them | that nothing as difficult as this lay between them |
428 | 00:19:00,347 | 00:19:02,137 | and the summit. | and the summit. |
429 | 00:19:02,137 | 00:19:07,137 | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) |
430 | 00:19:09,380 | 00:19:12,112 | - [Joe] They set off on a great adventure. | - [Joe] They set off on a great adventure. |
431 | 00:19:12,112 | 00:19:12,950 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
432 | 00:19:12,950 | 00:19:15,270 | They believed in themselves, | They believed in themselves, |
433 | 00:19:15,270 | 00:19:17,233 | and they proved to their own brilliance | and they proved to their own brilliance |
434 | 00:19:17,233 | 00:19:19,752 | that they were capable of doing this. | that they were capable of doing this. |
435 | 00:19:19,752 | 00:19:23,200 | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) |
436 | 00:19:23,200 | 00:19:25,990 | - That's what I loved about climbing. | - That's what I loved about climbing. |
437 | 00:19:25,990 | 00:19:27,760 | It's about having fun. | It's about having fun. |
438 | 00:19:27,760 | 00:19:29,581 | It's about living to the full. | It's about living to the full. |
439 | 00:19:29,581 | 00:19:32,930 | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) |
440 | 00:19:32,930 | 00:19:34,440 | I look at Kurz, | I look at Kurz, |
441 | 00:19:34,440 | 00:19:36,120 | and it's almost like seeing back | and it's almost like seeing back |
442 | 00:19:37,090 | 00:19:38,960 | to when you were 20 years old. | to when you were 20 years old. |
443 | 00:19:38,960 | 00:19:43,960 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
444 | 00:19:47,820 | 00:19:51,470 | We thought it was worth risking everything, | We thought it was worth risking everything, |
445 | 00:19:51,470 | 00:19:52,760 | all of the rest of your life, | all of the rest of your life, |
446 | 00:19:52,760 | 00:19:54,760 | every happiness you ever could have had, | every happiness you ever could have had, |
447 | 00:19:57,001 | 00:19:57,890 | and all the expenses you have | and all the expenses you have |
448 | 00:19:57,890 | 00:20:01,000 | in all the countries and on all the mountains, | in all the countries and on all the mountains, |
449 | 00:20:01,000 | 00:20:03,610 | they change who you are and they mold who you are, | they change who you are and they mold who you are, |
450 | 00:20:03,610 | 00:20:05,820 | and they become, it becomes something | and they become, it becomes something |
451 | 00:20:05,820 | 00:20:08,584 | that's life enhancing and life defining. | that's life enhancing and life defining. |
452 | 00:20:08,584 | 00:20:11,251 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
453 | 00:20:21,780 | 00:20:24,100 | - [Steven] The dream of a first ascent on the north face | - [Steven] The dream of a first ascent on the north face |
454 | 00:20:24,100 | 00:20:25,451 | was now in sight. | was now in sight. |
455 | 00:20:25,451 | 00:20:27,250 | (wind howling) (speaking in foreign language) | (wind howling) (speaking in foreign language) |
456 | 00:20:27,250 | 00:20:28,800 | But in their relation that morning, | But in their relation that morning, |
457 | 00:20:28,800 | 00:20:32,050 | there was one thing the four climbers didn't know. | there was one thing the four climbers didn't know. |
458 | 00:20:32,050 | 00:20:34,620 | Without a rope fixed in place, | Without a rope fixed in place, |
459 | 00:20:34,620 | 00:20:38,051 | it is impossible to climb back across the traverse. | it is impossible to climb back across the traverse. |
460 | 00:20:38,051 | 00:20:39,280 | (eerie music) (gear rattling) | (eerie music) (gear rattling) |
461 | 00:20:39,280 | 00:20:42,100 | - What they were thinking about was the way ahead. | - What they were thinking about was the way ahead. |
462 | 00:20:42,100 | 00:20:43,988 | They intended to climb to the summit. | They intended to climb to the summit. |
463 | 00:20:43,988 | 00:20:45,497 | (eerie music) | (eerie music) |
464 | 00:20:45,497 | 00:20:47,430 | And as they pulled the roped back, | And as they pulled the roped back, |
465 | 00:20:47,430 | 00:20:51,520 | it didn't for one moment enter their minds | it didn't for one moment enter their minds |
466 | 00:20:52,440 | 00:20:55,356 | that they might have to try and come back this way. | that they might have to try and come back this way. |
467 | 00:20:55,356 | 00:21:00,356 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
468 | 00:21:03,034 | 00:21:05,280 | - [Steven] 3,000 feet up the north face of the Eiger, | - [Steven] 3,000 feet up the north face of the Eiger, |
469 | 00:21:05,280 | 00:21:06,722 | the terrain changes. | the terrain changes. |
470 | 00:21:06,722 | 00:21:10,130 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
471 | 00:21:10,130 | 00:21:12,430 | A massive ice field extends across the width | A massive ice field extends across the width |
472 | 00:21:12,430 | 00:21:15,890 | of the rock face at the halfway point of the climb. | of the rock face at the halfway point of the climb. |
473 | 00:21:15,890 | 00:21:18,093 | And with it comes a new danger. | And with it comes a new danger. |
474 | 00:21:18,093 | 00:21:19,580 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
475 | 00:21:19,580 | 00:21:21,757 | Because beyond the sheer scale of the face | Because beyond the sheer scale of the face |
476 | 00:21:21,757 | 00:21:24,930 | and the potential to get trapped by bad weather, | and the potential to get trapped by bad weather, |
477 | 00:21:24,930 | 00:21:28,181 | there's another menace always present on this mountain. | there's another menace always present on this mountain. |
478 | 00:21:28,181 | 00:21:32,671 | (wind howling) (gear rattling) | (wind howling) (gear rattling) |
479 | 00:21:32,671 | 00:21:35,750 | (ice shattering) (men panting) | (ice shattering) (men panting) |
480 | 00:21:35,750 | 00:21:39,280 | In late afternoon, when the sun hits the edge of the face, | In late afternoon, when the sun hits the edge of the face, |
481 | 00:21:39,280 | 00:21:41,058 | the ice begins to melt. | the ice begins to melt. |
482 | 00:21:41,058 | 00:21:42,110 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
483 | 00:21:42,110 | 00:21:43,950 | Thousands of loose rocks frozen | Thousands of loose rocks frozen |
484 | 00:21:43,950 | 00:21:48,020 | into the ice field over the years, start to work loose. | into the ice field over the years, start to work loose. |
485 | 00:21:48,020 | 00:21:51,484 | And when they fall, they come down with incredible speed. | And when they fall, they come down with incredible speed. |
486 | 00:21:51,484 | 00:21:54,257 | (intense music) (ice shattering) | (intense music) (ice shattering) |
487 | 00:21:54,257 | 00:21:55,090 | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) |
488 | 00:21:55,090 | 00:21:59,025 | - You look up, thrum, thrum, thrum, vzz. | - You look up, thrum, thrum, thrum, vzz. |
489 | 00:21:59,025 | 00:21:59,858 | Vzz, vzz, vzz. | Vzz, vzz, vzz. |
490 | 00:21:59,858 | 00:22:01,317 | (rocks crashing) (intense music) | (rocks crashing) (intense music) |
491 | 00:22:01,317 | 00:22:02,490 | Suddenly the size of half a brick | Suddenly the size of half a brick |
492 | 00:22:02,490 | 00:22:06,129 | is falling 500 feet through the air, shooting past you. | is falling 500 feet through the air, shooting past you. |
493 | 00:22:06,129 | 00:22:08,099 | (rocks crashing) (intense music) | (rocks crashing) (intense music) |
494 | 00:22:08,099 | 00:22:10,660 | It hits with extraordinary velocity. | It hits with extraordinary velocity. |
495 | 00:22:10,660 | 00:22:12,550 | It won't just break your arm. | It won't just break your arm. |
496 | 00:22:12,550 | 00:22:14,049 | It'll will shatter the bone. | It'll will shatter the bone. |
497 | 00:22:14,049 | 00:22:16,594 | (ice shattering) (speaking in foreign language) | (ice shattering) (speaking in foreign language) |
498 | 00:22:16,594 | 00:22:19,131 | (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) | (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) |
499 | 00:22:19,131 | 00:22:20,433 | - [Steven] The climbers had no helmets. | - [Steven] The climbers had no helmets. |
500 | 00:22:20,433 | 00:22:21,266 | (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) | (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) |
501 | 00:22:21,266 | 00:22:22,983 | Just simple felt hats. | Just simple felt hats. |
502 | 00:22:22,983 | 00:22:27,858 | (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) | (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) |
503 | 00:22:27,858 | 00:22:29,180 | But one by one that afternoon, | But one by one that afternoon, |
504 | 00:22:29,180 | 00:22:30,960 | Toni Kurz and his friends took their turn | Toni Kurz and his friends took their turn |
505 | 00:22:30,960 | 00:22:34,338 | to make the 300 foot dash up the first ice field. | to make the 300 foot dash up the first ice field. |
506 | 00:22:34,338 | 00:22:39,338 | (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) | (rocks crashing) (speaking in foreign language) |
507 | 00:22:50,948 | 00:22:55,948 | (wind howling) (intense music) | (wind howling) (intense music) |
508 | 00:22:58,908 | 00:22:59,900 | - [Toni] Willy! | - [Toni] Willy! |
509 | 00:22:59,900 | 00:23:02,249 | - [Steven] Willy Angerer was the third to go. | - [Steven] Willy Angerer was the third to go. |
510 | 00:23:02,249 | 00:23:07,249 | (rocks crashing) (gear rattling) | (rocks crashing) (gear rattling) |
511 | 00:23:14,092 | 00:23:19,092 | (speaking in foreign language) (rocks crashing) | (speaking in foreign language) (rocks crashing) |
512 | 00:23:25,364 | 00:23:27,760 | - There was just a volley of stones | - There was just a volley of stones |
513 | 00:23:27,760 | 00:23:30,790 | that just doof, doof, doof, doof, came all around them. | that just doof, doof, doof, doof, came all around them. |
514 | 00:23:30,790 | 00:23:34,302 | And none of them were hit, and then, doof, Angerer was hit. | And none of them were hit, and then, doof, Angerer was hit. |
515 | 00:23:34,302 | 00:23:38,361 | (rocks crashing) (intense music) | (rocks crashing) (intense music) |
516 | 00:23:38,361 | 00:23:41,060 | In that one instance and that sickening sound | In that one instance and that sickening sound |
517 | 00:23:41,060 | 00:23:44,040 | of somebody being smashed on the head by a stone, | of somebody being smashed on the head by a stone, |
518 | 00:23:44,040 | 00:23:46,161 | everything would have been suspended for a sec. | everything would have been suspended for a sec. |
519 | 00:23:46,161 | 00:23:51,161 | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) |
520 | 00:23:53,199 | 00:23:56,449 | It only takes one slip, one false move, | It only takes one slip, one false move, |
521 | 00:23:58,010 | 00:24:00,080 | one single stone to come out of nowhere | one single stone to come out of nowhere |
522 | 00:24:01,180 | 00:24:03,310 | and it becomes a completely different game | and it becomes a completely different game |
523 | 00:24:03,310 | 00:24:04,437 | that you're playing. | that you're playing. |
524 | 00:24:04,437 | 00:24:06,950 | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) |
525 | 00:24:06,950 | 00:24:08,570 | - [Steven] The climbers were more than halfway | - [Steven] The climbers were more than halfway |
526 | 00:24:08,570 | 00:24:09,993 | to the summit of the Eiger. | to the summit of the Eiger. |
527 | 00:24:11,060 | 00:24:13,570 | That morning, a great first ascent | That morning, a great first ascent |
528 | 00:24:13,570 | 00:24:15,186 | had seemed within their grasp. | had seemed within their grasp. |
529 | 00:24:15,186 | 00:24:17,270 | (speaking in foreign language) (wind howling) | (speaking in foreign language) (wind howling) |
530 | 00:24:17,270 | 00:24:20,480 | But now Willy Angerer had some kind of head injury, | But now Willy Angerer had some kind of head injury, |
531 | 00:24:20,480 | 00:24:23,550 | and the four friends faced the hardest of choices, | and the four friends faced the hardest of choices, |
532 | 00:24:23,550 | 00:24:25,286 | whether to push onto the top. | whether to push onto the top. |
533 | 00:24:25,286 | 00:24:28,380 | (wind howling) (speaking in foreign language) | (wind howling) (speaking in foreign language) |
534 | 00:24:28,380 | 00:24:30,137 | Or turn back to safety. | Or turn back to safety. |
535 | 00:24:30,137 | 00:24:33,474 | (eerie music) (wind howling) | (eerie music) (wind howling) |
536 | 00:24:33,474 | 00:24:38,474 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
537 | 00:24:40,160 | 00:24:42,380 | After the shock of Angerer's accident, | After the shock of Angerer's accident, |
538 | 00:24:42,380 | 00:24:45,460 | the four climbers roped themselves to ledge on the Eiger, | the four climbers roped themselves to ledge on the Eiger, |
539 | 00:24:45,460 | 00:24:46,838 | and rested for night. | and rested for night. |
540 | 00:24:46,838 | 00:24:50,330 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
541 | 00:24:50,330 | 00:24:54,100 | The next morning, witnesses saw them leave camp at 7:00 a.m. | The next morning, witnesses saw them leave camp at 7:00 a.m. |
542 | 00:24:54,100 | 00:24:55,940 | (intense music) (chattering) | (intense music) (chattering) |
543 | 00:24:55,940 | 00:24:57,908 | Everyone expected them to start down. | Everyone expected them to start down. |
544 | 00:24:57,908 | 00:24:59,160 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
545 | 00:24:59,160 | 00:25:01,668 | But instead, they began to climb again. | But instead, they began to climb again. |
546 | 00:25:01,668 | 00:25:06,668 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
547 | 00:25:07,080 | 00:25:10,605 | They were halfway up a mountain no one had climbed before. | They were halfway up a mountain no one had climbed before. |
548 | 00:25:10,605 | 00:25:12,797 | And that was a prize they would not give up lightly. | And that was a prize they would not give up lightly. |
549 | 00:25:12,797 | 00:25:15,102 | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) |
550 | 00:25:15,102 | 00:25:20,102 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
551 | 00:25:20,284 | 00:25:21,260 | The men had reached the point | The men had reached the point |
552 | 00:25:21,260 | 00:25:23,190 | where the 1,800 foot wide expanse | where the 1,800 foot wide expanse |
553 | 00:25:23,190 | 00:25:27,023 | of the second ice field stretches out across the north face. | of the second ice field stretches out across the north face. |
554 | 00:25:27,023 | 00:25:32,023 | (intense music) (chopper droning) | (intense music) (chopper droning) |
555 | 00:25:35,930 | 00:25:39,433 | The ice field is 3,000 vertical feet above the valley. | The ice field is 3,000 vertical feet above the valley. |
556 | 00:25:39,433 | 00:25:40,810 | (intense music) (chopper droning) | (intense music) (chopper droning) |
557 | 00:25:40,810 | 00:25:42,563 | But the skills of the local air rescue team | But the skills of the local air rescue team |
558 | 00:25:42,563 | 00:25:45,928 | mean Joe can be dropped onto the ice field by a helicopter. | mean Joe can be dropped onto the ice field by a helicopter. |
559 | 00:25:45,928 | 00:25:46,761 | (intense music) (chopper droning) | (intense music) (chopper droning) |
560 | 00:25:46,761 | 00:25:48,810 | The pilot will fly close enough to the mountain | The pilot will fly close enough to the mountain |
561 | 00:25:48,810 | 00:25:52,520 | to winch him down to a ledge that is barely two feet wide. | to winch him down to a ledge that is barely two feet wide. |
562 | 00:25:52,520 | 00:25:56,800 | (intense music) (chopper droning) | (intense music) (chopper droning) |
563 | 00:25:56,800 | 00:26:00,020 | At this point, Joe will be able to retrace Kurz's progress | At this point, Joe will be able to retrace Kurz's progress |
564 | 00:26:00,020 | 00:26:02,013 | on the second day of his climb. | on the second day of his climb. |
565 | 00:26:02,013 | 00:26:04,752 | (chopper droning) | (chopper droning) |
566 | 00:26:04,752 | 00:26:09,752 | (wind howling) (gear rattling) | (wind howling) (gear rattling) |
567 | 00:26:13,860 | 00:26:16,061 | - They must have felt pretty good when they got here. | - They must have felt pretty good when they got here. |
568 | 00:26:16,061 | 00:26:18,781 | (wind howling) (gear rattling) | (wind howling) (gear rattling) |
569 | 00:26:18,781 | 00:26:21,773 | All the main features the face are now apparent. | All the main features the face are now apparent. |
570 | 00:26:21,773 | 00:26:26,397 | You can see the ramp, half of the second ice field. | You can see the ramp, half of the second ice field. |
571 | 00:26:28,500 | 00:26:29,450 | They know from here | They know from here |
572 | 00:26:31,020 | 00:26:33,860 | they should have no problem getting to | they should have no problem getting to |
573 | 00:26:36,243 | 00:26:40,730 | Sedlmayer and Mehringer's high spot of the year before | Sedlmayer and Mehringer's high spot of the year before |
574 | 00:26:40,730 | 00:26:41,929 | to Death Bivouac. | to Death Bivouac. |
575 | 00:26:41,929 | 00:26:46,929 | (wind howling) (Joe panting) | (wind howling) (Joe panting) |
576 | 00:26:47,090 | 00:26:48,840 | - [Steven] The second ice field is an exposed | - [Steven] The second ice field is an exposed |
577 | 00:26:48,840 | 00:26:50,309 | and dangerous place. | and dangerous place. |
578 | 00:26:50,309 | 00:26:55,309 | (intense music) (ice crunching) | (intense music) (ice crunching) |
579 | 00:26:58,586 | 00:27:00,820 | Hinterstoisser and Kurz knew it was ground they needed | Hinterstoisser and Kurz knew it was ground they needed |
580 | 00:27:00,820 | 00:27:02,878 | to cover as fast as possible. | to cover as fast as possible. |
581 | 00:27:02,878 | 00:27:04,870 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
582 | 00:27:04,870 | 00:27:06,490 | But as the morning wore on, | But as the morning wore on, |
583 | 00:27:06,490 | 00:27:08,490 | it became clear they had a problem. | it became clear they had a problem. |
584 | 00:27:08,490 | 00:27:09,780 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
585 | 00:27:09,780 | 00:27:13,067 | The injured Willie Angerer was getting slower by the hour. | The injured Willie Angerer was getting slower by the hour. |
586 | 00:27:13,067 | 00:27:14,390 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
587 | 00:27:14,390 | 00:27:16,830 | - Inside they would be thinking, get a move on. | - Inside they would be thinking, get a move on. |
588 | 00:27:16,830 | 00:27:18,135 | Get a move on. | Get a move on. |
589 | 00:27:18,135 | 00:27:19,430 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
590 | 00:27:19,430 | 00:27:22,620 | And by the same degree, Angerer would've know | And by the same degree, Angerer would've know |
591 | 00:27:22,620 | 00:27:24,308 | that he's not moving fast enough. | that he's not moving fast enough. |
592 | 00:27:24,308 | 00:27:25,546 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
593 | 00:27:25,546 | 00:27:27,710 | It's like you're trying to get to the most important meeting | It's like you're trying to get to the most important meeting |
594 | 00:27:27,710 | 00:27:30,210 | in your life and you're stuck in a traffic jam | in your life and you're stuck in a traffic jam |
595 | 00:27:30,210 | 00:27:32,306 | in the worst possible place. | in the worst possible place. |
596 | 00:27:32,306 | 00:27:36,310 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
597 | 00:27:36,310 | 00:27:39,350 | They still had half the height of the face to go. | They still had half the height of the face to go. |
598 | 00:27:39,350 | 00:27:41,640 | 3,000 feet above them. | 3,000 feet above them. |
599 | 00:27:41,640 | 00:27:43,200 | That's vertical height, | That's vertical height, |
600 | 00:27:43,200 | 00:27:45,310 | they probably had about 8,000 feet | they probably had about 8,000 feet |
601 | 00:27:45,310 | 00:27:47,005 | in total distance to climb. | in total distance to climb. |
602 | 00:27:47,005 | 00:27:48,900 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
603 | 00:27:48,900 | 00:27:50,220 | - [Steven] The four men would have expected | - [Steven] The four men would have expected |
604 | 00:27:50,220 | 00:27:53,533 | to cross the second ice field in five or six hours. | to cross the second ice field in five or six hours. |
605 | 00:27:53,533 | 00:27:54,366 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
606 | 00:27:54,366 | 00:27:55,380 | But by the end of the day, | But by the end of the day, |
607 | 00:27:55,380 | 00:27:58,259 | they were still making their slow traverse across it. | they were still making their slow traverse across it. |
608 | 00:27:58,259 | 00:27:59,490 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
609 | 00:27:59,490 | 00:28:02,520 | That evening, they made another camp on the ice. | That evening, they made another camp on the ice. |
610 | 00:28:02,520 | 00:28:04,459 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
611 | 00:28:04,459 | 00:28:06,020 | (speaking in foreign language) | (speaking in foreign language) |
612 | 00:28:06,020 | 00:28:08,300 | Each of them knew the dangers of moving too slowly | Each of them knew the dangers of moving too slowly |
613 | 00:28:08,300 | 00:28:09,770 | on this mountain. | on this mountain. |
614 | 00:28:09,770 | 00:28:12,067 | The risk of getting trapped by bad weather. | The risk of getting trapped by bad weather. |
615 | 00:28:12,067 | 00:28:13,110 | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) |
616 | 00:28:13,110 | 00:28:16,025 | It was what had killed the first two climbers to attempt it. | It was what had killed the first two climbers to attempt it. |
617 | 00:28:16,025 | 00:28:19,524 | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) |
618 | 00:28:19,524 | 00:28:21,980 | - I could imagine what it must have felt like | - I could imagine what it must have felt like |
619 | 00:28:21,980 | 00:28:25,225 | to be Kurz or Hinterstoisser, the uninjured pair. | to be Kurz or Hinterstoisser, the uninjured pair. |
620 | 00:28:25,225 | 00:28:27,290 | (gear rattling) (intense music) | (gear rattling) (intense music) |
621 | 00:28:27,290 | 00:28:29,950 | I would have been thinking, this isn't gonna work. | I would have been thinking, this isn't gonna work. |
622 | 00:28:29,950 | 00:28:32,900 | We cannot climb this at this speed. | We cannot climb this at this speed. |
623 | 00:28:32,900 | 00:28:36,073 | We probably have the hardest climbing ahead of us. | We probably have the hardest climbing ahead of us. |
624 | 00:28:36,073 | 00:28:40,460 | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) |
625 | 00:28:40,460 | 00:28:42,810 | And maybe in some whispered conversation with my partner, | And maybe in some whispered conversation with my partner, |
626 | 00:28:42,810 | 00:28:44,807 | I'd say, "Look, do you think those two | I'd say, "Look, do you think those two |
627 | 00:28:44,807 | 00:28:46,087 | "can get down on their own? | "can get down on their own? |
628 | 00:28:46,087 | 00:28:47,953 | "Because we can go on as a pair." | "Because we can go on as a pair." |
629 | 00:28:47,953 | 00:28:49,721 | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) |
630 | 00:28:49,721 | 00:28:53,667 | And I think Angerer and Rainer couldn't fail | And I think Angerer and Rainer couldn't fail |
631 | 00:28:54,560 | 00:28:57,508 | to have been aware that things have changed. | to have been aware that things have changed. |
632 | 00:28:57,508 | 00:28:59,700 | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) |
633 | 00:28:59,700 | 00:29:01,898 | You have to add something else into this. | You have to add something else into this. |
634 | 00:29:01,898 | 00:29:03,840 | (intense music) (rocks crashing) | (intense music) (rocks crashing) |
635 | 00:29:03,840 | 00:29:05,450 | This is where Sedlmayer and Mehringer | This is where Sedlmayer and Mehringer |
636 | 00:29:05,450 | 00:29:06,956 | had died the year before. | had died the year before. |
637 | 00:29:06,956 | 00:29:11,487 | (intense music) (rocks crashing) | (intense music) (rocks crashing) |
638 | 00:29:11,487 | 00:29:14,470 | Sedlmayer was frozen into the snow, | Sedlmayer was frozen into the snow, |
639 | 00:29:14,470 | 00:29:15,580 | probably less than a rope length | probably less than a rope length |
640 | 00:29:15,580 | 00:29:17,498 | from where they were sitting that night. | from where they were sitting that night. |
641 | 00:29:17,498 | 00:29:22,498 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
642 | 00:29:23,270 | 00:29:26,943 | You'd like to think, as a young man, you control the odds, | You'd like to think, as a young man, you control the odds, |
643 | 00:29:28,180 | 00:29:30,770 | by your judgment and by your skill, | by your judgment and by your skill, |
644 | 00:29:30,770 | 00:29:33,943 | and that sort of gives you your sense of invulnerability. | and that sort of gives you your sense of invulnerability. |
645 | 00:29:34,830 | 00:29:36,925 | And it's not exactly true. | And it's not exactly true. |
646 | 00:29:36,925 | 00:29:39,425 | (eerie music) | (eerie music) |
647 | 00:29:40,390 | 00:29:42,570 | - [Steven] Joe was just two years older than Kurz | - [Steven] Joe was just two years older than Kurz |
648 | 00:29:42,570 | 00:29:45,166 | when something happened that changed his life. | when something happened that changed his life. |
649 | 00:29:45,166 | 00:29:47,666 | (eerie music) | (eerie music) |
650 | 00:29:50,330 | 00:29:52,630 | He was 25, climbing in Peru | He was 25, climbing in Peru |
651 | 00:29:53,777 | 00:29:55,935 | when he broke his leg in a split second fall. | when he broke his leg in a split second fall. |
652 | 00:29:55,935 | 00:29:58,435 | (eerie music) | (eerie music) |
653 | 00:29:59,300 | 00:30:00,880 | His climbing partner, Simon, | His climbing partner, Simon, |
654 | 00:30:00,880 | 00:30:03,170 | tried to lower him down the mountain. | tried to lower him down the mountain. |
655 | 00:30:03,170 | 00:30:06,975 | But in the darkness, Joe slid over the edge of an ice cliff. | But in the darkness, Joe slid over the edge of an ice cliff. |
656 | 00:30:06,975 | 00:30:07,890 | (eerie music) | (eerie music) |
657 | 00:30:07,890 | 00:30:11,757 | And he was trapped hanging in space above a precipice. | And he was trapped hanging in space above a precipice. |
658 | 00:30:11,757 | 00:30:14,120 | (eerie music) | (eerie music) |
659 | 00:30:14,120 | 00:30:17,325 | To save himself, Simon was forced to cut the rope. | To save himself, Simon was forced to cut the rope. |
660 | 00:30:17,325 | 00:30:20,290 | (eerie music) | (eerie music) |
661 | 00:30:20,290 | 00:30:22,995 | Joe fell 150 feet into a crevasse. | Joe fell 150 feet into a crevasse. |
662 | 00:30:22,995 | 00:30:24,200 | (eerie music) | (eerie music) |
663 | 00:30:24,200 | 00:30:27,270 | Then for four days, he crawled to safety | Then for four days, he crawled to safety |
664 | 00:30:27,270 | 00:30:29,104 | with a badly shattered leg. | with a badly shattered leg. |
665 | 00:30:29,104 | 00:30:31,800 | (eerie music) | (eerie music) |
666 | 00:30:31,800 | 00:30:33,860 | - When I got back to England, | - When I got back to England, |
667 | 00:30:33,860 | 00:30:36,403 | I had six operations on my knee. | I had six operations on my knee. |
668 | 00:30:37,270 | 00:30:39,360 | I was in plaster for nine months. | I was in plaster for nine months. |
669 | 00:30:39,360 | 00:30:41,298 | I was on crutches for 12 months. | I was on crutches for 12 months. |
670 | 00:30:41,298 | 00:30:44,018 | (placid music) (train rattling) | (placid music) (train rattling) |
671 | 00:30:44,018 | 00:30:46,357 | And as I was discharged, the consultant told me, | And as I was discharged, the consultant told me, |
672 | 00:30:46,357 | 00:30:48,017 | "You'll never walk without a limb." | "You'll never walk without a limb." |
673 | 00:30:48,017 | 00:30:49,447 | (placid music) (train rattling) | (placid music) (train rattling) |
674 | 00:30:49,447 | 00:30:50,826 | "And you'll never climb again." | "And you'll never climb again." |
675 | 00:30:50,826 | 00:30:53,770 | (placid music) (train rattling) | (placid music) (train rattling) |
676 | 00:30:53,770 | 00:30:57,279 | I don't think he really understood what he was saying to me. | I don't think he really understood what he was saying to me. |
677 | 00:30:57,279 | 00:30:58,520 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
678 | 00:30:58,520 | 00:31:00,616 | Climbing was my whole life. | Climbing was my whole life. |
679 | 00:31:00,616 | 00:31:01,480 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
680 | 00:31:01,480 | 00:31:02,710 | It was a passion. | It was a passion. |
681 | 00:31:02,710 | 00:31:03,770 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
682 | 00:31:03,770 | 00:31:08,060 | And I remember sitting on the bed, looking at my legs, | And I remember sitting on the bed, looking at my legs, |
683 | 00:31:08,060 | 00:31:12,534 | and just crying because this guy was telling me it was over. | and just crying because this guy was telling me it was over. |
684 | 00:31:12,534 | 00:31:15,201 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
685 | 00:31:21,690 | 00:31:23,360 | So, I'd go down to the local swimming pool | So, I'd go down to the local swimming pool |
686 | 00:31:23,360 | 00:31:24,926 | and just swim and swim. | and just swim and swim. |
687 | 00:31:24,926 | 00:31:27,670 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
688 | 00:31:27,670 | 00:31:28,503 | Eventually, I got to a point | Eventually, I got to a point |
689 | 00:31:28,503 | 00:31:29,920 | where I was going five days a week, | where I was going five days a week, |
690 | 00:31:29,920 | 00:31:31,914 | and I started getting fitter and fitter and fitter. | and I started getting fitter and fitter and fitter. |
691 | 00:31:31,914 | 00:31:34,250 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
692 | 00:31:34,250 | 00:31:37,223 | It was a long, hard rehabilitation. | It was a long, hard rehabilitation. |
693 | 00:31:37,223 | 00:31:38,730 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
694 | 00:31:38,730 | 00:31:42,302 | But it was enough, in the end, to start climbing again. | But it was enough, in the end, to start climbing again. |
695 | 00:31:42,302 | 00:31:44,969 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
696 | 00:31:49,240 | 00:31:51,671 | I should have been pretty much set up and happy, | I should have been pretty much set up and happy, |
697 | 00:31:51,671 | 00:31:54,340 | and I wasn't really. | and I wasn't really. |
698 | 00:31:54,340 | 00:31:56,390 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
699 | 00:31:56,390 | 00:31:57,688 | Something changed. | Something changed. |
700 | 00:31:57,688 | 00:31:59,730 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
701 | 00:31:59,730 | 00:32:01,858 | Something inside has been damaged. | Something inside has been damaged. |
702 | 00:32:01,858 | 00:32:04,441 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
703 | 00:32:06,538 | 00:32:09,205 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
704 | 00:32:15,810 | 00:32:18,530 | - [Steven] On the morning of July the 20th, 1936, | - [Steven] On the morning of July the 20th, 1936, |
705 | 00:32:18,530 | 00:32:20,760 | witnesses in the valley saw something odd happen | witnesses in the valley saw something odd happen |
706 | 00:32:20,760 | 00:32:22,078 | among the four climbers. | among the four climbers. |
707 | 00:32:22,078 | 00:32:23,300 | (chattering) | (chattering) |
708 | 00:32:23,300 | 00:32:25,470 | As they left their camp on the ice, | As they left their camp on the ice, |
709 | 00:32:25,470 | 00:32:29,200 | two of them pushed ahead, climbing fast towards the summit. | two of them pushed ahead, climbing fast towards the summit. |
710 | 00:32:29,200 | 00:32:30,700 | (intense music) (ice crunching) | (intense music) (ice crunching) |
711 | 00:32:30,700 | 00:32:33,828 | It was Andreas Hinterstoisser and Toni Kurz. | It was Andreas Hinterstoisser and Toni Kurz. |
712 | 00:32:33,828 | 00:32:36,510 | (intense music) (ice crunching) | (intense music) (ice crunching) |
713 | 00:32:36,510 | 00:32:38,933 | - These two wanted to do the climb. | - These two wanted to do the climb. |
714 | 00:32:39,860 | 00:32:43,508 | They could actually see the path ahead to the summit. | They could actually see the path ahead to the summit. |
715 | 00:32:43,508 | 00:32:44,730 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
716 | 00:32:44,730 | 00:32:46,140 | They know that Angerer is injured, | They know that Angerer is injured, |
717 | 00:32:46,140 | 00:32:47,650 | but they would have been hoping | but they would have been hoping |
718 | 00:32:47,650 | 00:32:50,840 | that if they just a bullish, aggressive, go for it, | that if they just a bullish, aggressive, go for it, |
719 | 00:32:50,840 | 00:32:53,458 | come on, lads, do it, they'll come with them. | come on, lads, do it, they'll come with them. |
720 | 00:32:53,458 | 00:32:58,458 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
721 | 00:33:00,715 | 00:33:04,150 | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) |
722 | 00:33:04,150 | 00:33:06,314 | And then they were stopped dead in their tracks. | And then they were stopped dead in their tracks. |
723 | 00:33:06,314 | 00:33:08,440 | (Willy panting) (wind howling) | (Willy panting) (wind howling) |
724 | 00:33:08,440 | 00:33:09,420 | It would have become apparent, | It would have become apparent, |
725 | 00:33:09,420 | 00:33:11,880 | as soon as they started climbing, | as soon as they started climbing, |
726 | 00:33:11,880 | 00:33:14,707 | that Angerer wasn't as well as they thought. | that Angerer wasn't as well as they thought. |
727 | 00:33:14,707 | 00:33:19,707 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
728 | 00:33:23,723 | 00:33:28,723 | God, the disappointment, shit, damn, damn. | God, the disappointment, shit, damn, damn. |
729 | 00:33:28,860 | 00:33:31,433 | We could have climbed it, we could have climbed it. | We could have climbed it, we could have climbed it. |
730 | 00:33:31,433 | 00:33:32,450 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
731 | 00:33:32,450 | 00:33:33,734 | The dream had gone. | The dream had gone. |
732 | 00:33:33,734 | 00:33:37,020 | (wind howling) (gear rattling) | (wind howling) (gear rattling) |
733 | 00:33:37,020 | 00:33:38,983 | And then, everything changed. | And then, everything changed. |
734 | 00:33:40,240 | 00:33:44,542 | The task they had now is to save another man. | The task they had now is to save another man. |
735 | 00:33:44,542 | 00:33:45,700 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
736 | 00:33:45,700 | 00:33:48,223 | - [Steven] To retreat now meant reversing their tracks | - [Steven] To retreat now meant reversing their tracks |
737 | 00:33:48,223 | 00:33:51,200 | 1,800 feet across the second ice field, | 1,800 feet across the second ice field, |
738 | 00:33:51,200 | 00:33:55,142 | then 3,000 feet down to the safety of the valley below. | then 3,000 feet down to the safety of the valley below. |
739 | 00:33:55,142 | 00:33:56,730 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
740 | 00:33:56,730 | 00:33:59,670 | But this time, they had an injured man | But this time, they had an injured man |
741 | 00:33:59,670 | 00:34:01,582 | who was clearly deteriorating. | who was clearly deteriorating. |
742 | 00:34:01,582 | 00:34:06,340 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
743 | 00:34:06,340 | 00:34:08,131 | They began the descent at midday. | They began the descent at midday. |
744 | 00:34:08,131 | 00:34:08,964 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
745 | 00:34:08,964 | 00:34:10,220 | It took the most of the afternoon | It took the most of the afternoon |
746 | 00:34:10,220 | 00:34:13,243 | to make their way back across the second ice field. | to make their way back across the second ice field. |
747 | 00:34:13,243 | 00:34:15,850 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
748 | 00:34:15,850 | 00:34:19,123 | To make matters worse, in the valley below | To make matters worse, in the valley below |
749 | 00:34:19,123 | 00:34:22,664 | were the first telltale signs of bad weather approaching. | were the first telltale signs of bad weather approaching. |
750 | 00:34:22,664 | 00:34:27,664 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
751 | 00:34:33,823 | 00:34:38,823 | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) |
752 | 00:34:40,550 | 00:34:43,060 | - It was as if they want were on balance | - It was as if they want were on balance |
753 | 00:34:43,060 | 00:34:46,540 | of excitement and adventure and anticipation on the one side | of excitement and adventure and anticipation on the one side |
754 | 00:34:48,494 | 00:34:52,100 | and tipping in to losing control and failure. | and tipping in to losing control and failure. |
755 | 00:34:52,100 | 00:34:54,584 | And it's at that point that everything tipped. | And it's at that point that everything tipped. |
756 | 00:34:54,584 | 00:34:59,584 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
757 | 00:35:02,166 | 00:35:07,166 | (fire whooshing) (placid music) | (fire whooshing) (placid music) |
758 | 00:35:08,770 | 00:35:10,180 | - [Steven] At 8:30 that night, | - [Steven] At 8:30 that night, |
759 | 00:35:10,180 | 00:35:12,280 | the climbers stopped to rest. | the climbers stopped to rest. |
760 | 00:35:12,280 | 00:35:14,417 | It was their third night on the north face, | It was their third night on the north face, |
761 | 00:35:14,417 | 00:35:17,304 | and they were back at the halfway point of the climb. | and they were back at the halfway point of the climb. |
762 | 00:35:17,304 | 00:35:20,110 | (fire whooshing) (placid music) | (fire whooshing) (placid music) |
763 | 00:35:20,110 | 00:35:22,410 | The following day, their retreat would bring them | The following day, their retreat would bring them |
764 | 00:35:22,410 | 00:35:25,794 | to the 100 foot rock barrier, the traverse. | to the 100 foot rock barrier, the traverse. |
765 | 00:35:25,794 | 00:35:30,794 | (fire whooshing) (placid music) | (fire whooshing) (placid music) |
766 | 00:35:31,520 | 00:35:34,440 | - [Joe] Hinterstoisser of all people knew | - [Joe] Hinterstoisser of all people knew |
767 | 00:35:34,440 | 00:35:39,090 | how difficult it had been to climb across the traverse, | how difficult it had been to climb across the traverse, |
768 | 00:35:39,090 | 00:35:41,104 | he'd done it in dry conditions. | he'd done it in dry conditions. |
769 | 00:35:41,104 | 00:35:42,650 | (fire whooshing) (placid music) | (fire whooshing) (placid music) |
770 | 00:35:42,650 | 00:35:45,560 | And I'm sure it must have been going through his mind. | And I'm sure it must have been going through his mind. |
771 | 00:35:45,560 | 00:35:48,155 | We've got 3,000 feet to descent, | We've got 3,000 feet to descent, |
772 | 00:35:48,155 | 00:35:49,863 | but we've got one crux thing. | but we've got one crux thing. |
773 | 00:35:51,150 | 00:35:54,864 | First, we have to get back across the traverse. | First, we have to get back across the traverse. |
774 | 00:35:54,864 | 00:35:59,864 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
775 | 00:36:01,532 | 00:36:06,532 | (thunder droning) (wind howling) | (thunder droning) (wind howling) |
776 | 00:36:10,230 | 00:36:12,530 | - [Steven] By the morning of the fourth day, | - [Steven] By the morning of the fourth day, |
777 | 00:36:12,530 | 00:36:14,854 | the mountain was enveloped in cloud. | the mountain was enveloped in cloud. |
778 | 00:36:14,854 | 00:36:16,000 | (gear rattling) | (gear rattling) |
779 | 00:36:16,000 | 00:36:17,620 | The temperature was dropping, | The temperature was dropping, |
780 | 00:36:17,620 | 00:36:20,170 | and water was beginning to pour down the face, | and water was beginning to pour down the face, |
781 | 00:36:20,170 | 00:36:22,992 | freezing in places to the rock around them. | freezing in places to the rock around them. |
782 | 00:36:22,992 | 00:36:23,890 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
783 | 00:36:23,890 | 00:36:26,610 | The men left the bivouac around 7:00 a.m, | The men left the bivouac around 7:00 a.m, |
784 | 00:36:26,610 | 00:36:28,871 | but Angerer's condition appear to be worsening. | but Angerer's condition appear to be worsening. |
785 | 00:36:28,871 | 00:36:31,030 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
786 | 00:36:31,030 | 00:36:33,240 | Their descent of the first ice field that morning | Their descent of the first ice field that morning |
787 | 00:36:33,240 | 00:36:34,800 | was painfully slow. | was painfully slow. |
788 | 00:36:34,800 | 00:36:38,860 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
789 | 00:36:38,860 | 00:36:40,320 | The seriousness of their position | The seriousness of their position |
790 | 00:36:40,320 | 00:36:41,972 | would now have struck all of them. | would now have struck all of them. |
791 | 00:36:41,972 | 00:36:42,805 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
792 | 00:36:42,805 | 00:36:44,480 | They couldn't climb up to safety, | They couldn't climb up to safety, |
793 | 00:36:44,480 | 00:36:46,510 | and they couldn't climb down. | and they couldn't climb down. |
794 | 00:36:46,510 | 00:36:50,330 | below them was a 700 foot abyss. | below them was a 700 foot abyss. |
795 | 00:36:50,330 | 00:36:53,500 | They knew if they couldn't get back across the traverse, | They knew if they couldn't get back across the traverse, |
796 | 00:36:53,500 | 00:36:54,770 | they were trapped. | they were trapped. |
797 | 00:36:54,770 | 00:36:57,100 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
798 | 00:36:57,100 | 00:36:58,760 | What they didn't know | What they didn't know |
799 | 00:36:58,760 | 00:37:01,110 | was what Hinterstoisser had done the first time | was what Hinterstoisser had done the first time |
800 | 00:37:01,960 | 00:37:03,849 | wasn't possible in reverse. | wasn't possible in reverse. |
801 | 00:37:03,849 | 00:37:08,849 | (intense music) (Joe panting) | (intense music) (Joe panting) |
802 | 00:37:11,300 | 00:37:13,763 | - This is about plum center of the Hinterstoisser. | - This is about plum center of the Hinterstoisser. |
803 | 00:37:15,200 | 00:37:17,900 | To come across, Hinterstoisser put the high peg in | To come across, Hinterstoisser put the high peg in |
804 | 00:37:17,900 | 00:37:19,740 | and clipped his rope in it. | and clipped his rope in it. |
805 | 00:37:19,740 | 00:37:22,930 | And so, he had his rope running down to him under tension. | And so, he had his rope running down to him under tension. |
806 | 00:37:22,930 | 00:37:26,260 | And he could have lent with his friends, | And he could have lent with his friends, |
807 | 00:37:26,260 | 00:37:29,520 | tensioning him across, across this blank bit. | tensioning him across, across this blank bit. |
808 | 00:37:29,520 | 00:37:31,550 | And then, they'd pull the ropes back. | And then, they'd pull the ropes back. |
809 | 00:37:31,550 | 00:37:33,450 | To come back, he couldn't get any tension. | To come back, he couldn't get any tension. |
810 | 00:37:33,450 | 00:37:37,370 | He didn't have any high pitons above us. | He didn't have any high pitons above us. |
811 | 00:37:37,370 | 00:37:39,320 | And you can just see this section here. | And you can just see this section here. |
812 | 00:37:41,597 | 00:37:44,810 | 15, 20 feet is absolutely ice worn smooth, | 15, 20 feet is absolutely ice worn smooth, |
813 | 00:37:44,810 | 00:37:47,150 | there aren't downward facing ledges, | there aren't downward facing ledges, |
814 | 00:37:47,150 | 00:37:49,165 | which are tricky enough in these conditions. | which are tricky enough in these conditions. |
815 | 00:37:49,165 | 00:37:50,210 | (wind howling) (rocks crashing) | (wind howling) (rocks crashing) |
816 | 00:37:50,210 | 00:37:52,350 | But if this was ice glazed, | But if this was ice glazed, |
817 | 00:37:52,350 | 00:37:54,099 | it would have been absolutely desperate. | it would have been absolutely desperate. |
818 | 00:37:54,099 | 00:37:56,521 | (wind howling) (rocks crashing) | (wind howling) (rocks crashing) |
819 | 00:37:56,521 | 00:37:58,950 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
820 | 00:37:58,950 | 00:37:59,932 | - [Steven] And it was. | - [Steven] And it was. |
821 | 00:37:59,932 | 00:38:01,330 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
822 | 00:38:01,330 | 00:38:04,788 | The glass smooth rock of the traverse was now wet. | The glass smooth rock of the traverse was now wet. |
823 | 00:38:04,788 | 00:38:05,621 | (speaking in foreign language) | (speaking in foreign language) |
824 | 00:38:05,621 | 00:38:08,034 | And streaked with black ice. | And streaked with black ice. |
825 | 00:38:08,034 | 00:38:13,034 | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) |
826 | 00:38:17,369 | 00:38:22,369 | (Andreas grunting) (intense music) | (Andreas grunting) (intense music) |
827 | 00:38:27,490 | 00:38:29,880 | - Everything would have compressed | - Everything would have compressed |
828 | 00:38:29,880 | 00:38:31,578 | into the small movement to time. | into the small movement to time. |
829 | 00:38:31,578 | 00:38:36,578 | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) |
830 | 00:38:36,700 | 00:38:38,750 | Every fiber in his body would be concentrating | Every fiber in his body would be concentrating |
831 | 00:38:38,750 | 00:38:40,919 | on every tiny move. | on every tiny move. |
832 | 00:38:40,919 | 00:38:44,790 | (intense music) (rock grinding) | (intense music) (rock grinding) |
833 | 00:38:44,790 | 00:38:49,090 | This is their best climber, trying for all he was worth | This is their best climber, trying for all he was worth |
834 | 00:38:49,090 | 00:38:50,830 | to get back across the very thing | to get back across the very thing |
835 | 00:38:50,830 | 00:38:52,809 | that he brilliantly unlocked. | that he brilliantly unlocked. |
836 | 00:38:52,809 | 00:38:57,809 | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) |
837 | 00:39:04,387 | 00:39:08,198 | He spent almost five hours trying to cross this travers. | He spent almost five hours trying to cross this travers. |
838 | 00:39:08,198 | 00:39:10,727 | (intense music) (Andreas yelling) | (intense music) (Andreas yelling) |
839 | 00:39:10,727 | 00:39:13,260 | (gear rattling) (intense music) | (gear rattling) (intense music) |
840 | 00:39:13,260 | 00:39:15,560 | I reckon virtually where I'm standing now | I reckon virtually where I'm standing now |
841 | 00:39:16,700 | 00:39:21,210 | is where Hinterstoisser would have repeatedly fallen off, | is where Hinterstoisser would have repeatedly fallen off, |
842 | 00:39:21,210 | 00:39:24,426 | desperately just trying to climb this section. | desperately just trying to climb this section. |
843 | 00:39:24,426 | 00:39:29,426 | (speaking in foreign language) (wind howling) | (speaking in foreign language) (wind howling) |
844 | 00:39:31,260 | 00:39:35,042 | There is that moment when activity stops. | There is that moment when activity stops. |
845 | 00:39:35,042 | 00:39:40,012 | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) |
846 | 00:39:40,012 | 00:39:42,074 | You just know you can't do this. | You just know you can't do this. |
847 | 00:39:42,074 | 00:39:43,720 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
848 | 00:39:43,720 | 00:39:47,033 | And you have to accept that it's over. | And you have to accept that it's over. |
849 | 00:39:47,033 | 00:39:52,033 | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) |
850 | 00:39:57,623 | 00:40:00,480 | And it would have gradually been dawning on all of them | And it would have gradually been dawning on all of them |
851 | 00:40:01,656 | 00:40:03,450 | that this could be a fatal error | that this could be a fatal error |
852 | 00:40:03,450 | 00:40:05,694 | that they hadn't left a rope across. | that they hadn't left a rope across. |
853 | 00:40:05,694 | 00:40:10,270 | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) |
854 | 00:40:10,270 | 00:40:12,459 | They couldn't cross the traverse, it was unclothed. | They couldn't cross the traverse, it was unclothed. |
855 | 00:40:12,459 | 00:40:14,660 | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) | (speaking in foreign language) (intense music) |
856 | 00:40:14,660 | 00:40:17,697 | But if they stayed where they were, they were going to die. | But if they stayed where they were, they were going to die. |
857 | 00:40:17,697 | 00:40:21,820 | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) |
858 | 00:40:21,820 | 00:40:23,720 | The very piece of brilliance | The very piece of brilliance |
859 | 00:40:23,720 | 00:40:28,469 | that had unlocked the heart of the face had trapped them. | that had unlocked the heart of the face had trapped them. |
860 | 00:40:28,469 | 00:40:33,469 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
861 | 00:40:36,310 | 00:40:39,130 | As a storm comes into the face, | As a storm comes into the face, |
862 | 00:40:39,130 | 00:40:41,633 | you can sense it as much as see it. | you can sense it as much as see it. |
863 | 00:40:41,633 | 00:40:43,242 | (thunder droning) (wind howling) | (thunder droning) (wind howling) |
864 | 00:40:43,242 | 00:40:46,340 | There's this horrible sense of expectancy, | There's this horrible sense of expectancy, |
865 | 00:40:46,340 | 00:40:48,710 | the hair on the back of the head starts to rise | the hair on the back of the head starts to rise |
866 | 00:40:48,710 | 00:40:50,850 | and you become incredibly aware | and you become incredibly aware |
867 | 00:40:50,850 | 00:40:52,934 | that it's about to happen, it's about happen. | that it's about to happen, it's about happen. |
868 | 00:40:52,934 | 00:40:55,020 | (thunder droning) (wind howling) | (thunder droning) (wind howling) |
869 | 00:40:55,020 | 00:40:56,935 | And then, all hell is let loose. | And then, all hell is let loose. |
870 | 00:40:56,935 | 00:40:59,768 | (wind screeching) | (wind screeching) |
871 | 00:41:07,146 | 00:41:07,979 | - [Steven] The storm hit the Eiger | - [Steven] The storm hit the Eiger |
872 | 00:41:07,979 | 00:41:10,223 | on the climbers' fourth day on the north face. | on the climbers' fourth day on the north face. |
873 | 00:41:11,640 | 00:41:13,020 | For the watches in the valley, | For the watches in the valley, |
874 | 00:41:13,020 | 00:41:15,683 | it was an unsettling reminder of the previous year. | it was an unsettling reminder of the previous year. |
875 | 00:41:15,683 | 00:41:16,516 | (chattering) | (chattering) |
876 | 00:41:16,516 | 00:41:19,030 | Just like the first two climbers to attempt it, | Just like the first two climbers to attempt it, |
877 | 00:41:19,030 | 00:41:22,306 | Kurz and the others had simply disappeared behind the cloud. | Kurz and the others had simply disappeared behind the cloud. |
878 | 00:41:22,306 | 00:41:24,920 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
879 | 00:41:24,920 | 00:41:27,210 | Trapped halfway up the mountain, | Trapped halfway up the mountain, |
880 | 00:41:27,210 | 00:41:30,500 | the climbers now knew they couldn't climb up to safety | the climbers now knew they couldn't climb up to safety |
881 | 00:41:30,500 | 00:41:32,263 | or back across the traverse. | or back across the traverse. |
882 | 00:41:33,386 | 00:41:34,533 | It would gradually have dawned on all of them | It would gradually have dawned on all of them |
883 | 00:41:34,533 | 00:41:37,090 | that there was only one option left, | that there was only one option left, |
884 | 00:41:37,090 | 00:41:39,546 | to descend the vertical ground below them. | to descend the vertical ground below them. |
885 | 00:41:39,546 | 00:41:43,350 | (wind howling) (intense music) | (wind howling) (intense music) |
886 | 00:41:43,350 | 00:41:45,826 | - I imagine they don't even wanna contemplating it. | - I imagine they don't even wanna contemplating it. |
887 | 00:41:45,826 | 00:41:46,659 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
888 | 00:41:46,659 | 00:41:48,786 | They were still 3,000 feet above the valley. | They were still 3,000 feet above the valley. |
889 | 00:41:48,786 | 00:41:49,619 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
890 | 00:41:49,619 | 00:41:52,180 | They stay where they are, Angerer will certainly die, | They stay where they are, Angerer will certainly die, |
891 | 00:41:53,040 | 00:41:54,010 | but they're not gonna survive | but they're not gonna survive |
892 | 00:41:54,010 | 00:41:55,680 | in these conditions much longer. | in these conditions much longer. |
893 | 00:41:55,680 | 00:41:58,210 | Another night on the face, exhausted, | Another night on the face, exhausted, |
894 | 00:41:58,210 | 00:41:59,890 | they're not gonna last. | they're not gonna last. |
895 | 00:41:59,890 | 00:42:03,800 | Below them, they have ground dropping away steeply, | Below them, they have ground dropping away steeply, |
896 | 00:42:03,800 | 00:42:06,030 | ice covered rocks getting steeper and steeper | ice covered rocks getting steeper and steeper |
897 | 00:42:06,030 | 00:42:08,870 | until eventually they knew there was a rock barrier | until eventually they knew there was a rock barrier |
898 | 00:42:08,870 | 00:42:12,360 | some 200 feet high, vertical and overhanging. | some 200 feet high, vertical and overhanging. |
899 | 00:42:12,360 | 00:42:14,840 | If they get down and it's a big earth, | If they get down and it's a big earth, |
900 | 00:42:14,840 | 00:42:18,645 | there is a ledge system that runs across the face. | there is a ledge system that runs across the face. |
901 | 00:42:18,645 | 00:42:19,640 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
902 | 00:42:19,640 | 00:42:22,020 | - [Steven] This ledge system led to a small door | - [Steven] This ledge system led to a small door |
903 | 00:42:22,020 | 00:42:25,093 | drilled through the mountain wall into the railway tunnel. | drilled through the mountain wall into the railway tunnel. |
904 | 00:42:25,960 | 00:42:27,690 | It was the same door that Joe used | It was the same door that Joe used |
905 | 00:42:27,690 | 00:42:29,471 | as a shortcut onto the face. | as a shortcut onto the face. |
906 | 00:42:29,471 | 00:42:30,650 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
907 | 00:42:30,650 | 00:42:33,233 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
908 | 00:42:34,350 | 00:42:36,640 | - Everything that's been happening since that day | - Everything that's been happening since that day |
909 | 00:42:36,640 | 00:42:38,563 | is limiting their options. | is limiting their options. |
910 | 00:42:38,563 | 00:42:40,550 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
911 | 00:42:40,550 | 00:42:43,523 | They had a barely conscious man to try and bring down. | They had a barely conscious man to try and bring down. |
912 | 00:42:43,523 | 00:42:46,283 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
913 | 00:42:46,283 | 00:42:47,583 | And to make matters worse, | And to make matters worse, |
914 | 00:42:48,540 | 00:42:51,920 | their line of descent led them directly | their line of descent led them directly |
915 | 00:42:51,920 | 00:42:54,140 | to the stones and the avalanches | to the stones and the avalanches |
916 | 00:42:54,140 | 00:42:55,850 | that were hurtling down from above. | that were hurtling down from above. |
917 | 00:42:55,850 | 00:42:57,391 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
918 | 00:42:57,391 | 00:42:59,870 | To step out into the face of those avalanches | To step out into the face of those avalanches |
919 | 00:42:59,870 | 00:43:01,863 | would have seemed suicidal. | would have seemed suicidal. |
920 | 00:43:01,863 | 00:43:03,800 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
921 | 00:43:03,800 | 00:43:04,976 | But there's no other choice. | But there's no other choice. |
922 | 00:43:04,976 | 00:43:09,976 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
923 | 00:43:25,631 | 00:43:29,091 | This is pretty much their abseil line of descent. | This is pretty much their abseil line of descent. |
924 | 00:43:29,091 | 00:43:32,230 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
925 | 00:43:32,230 | 00:43:34,670 | This really would have been an awful place | This really would have been an awful place |
926 | 00:43:34,670 | 00:43:36,579 | to start trying to get down. | to start trying to get down. |
927 | 00:43:36,579 | 00:43:38,470 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
928 | 00:43:38,470 | 00:43:40,063 | I've got good visibility today. | I've got good visibility today. |
929 | 00:43:40,910 | 00:43:42,711 | And I wouldn't like to be going down here. | And I wouldn't like to be going down here. |
930 | 00:43:42,711 | 00:43:44,860 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
931 | 00:43:44,860 | 00:43:46,080 | In the teeth of a storm, | In the teeth of a storm, |
932 | 00:43:46,080 | 00:43:48,081 | they wouldn't be able to see very far at all. | they wouldn't be able to see very far at all. |
933 | 00:43:48,081 | 00:43:50,361 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
934 | 00:43:50,361 | 00:43:52,690 | And they would have had to contend with lowering somebody, | And they would have had to contend with lowering somebody, |
935 | 00:43:52,690 | 00:43:55,190 | who was probably barely capable of looking after himself, | who was probably barely capable of looking after himself, |
936 | 00:43:55,190 | 00:43:56,660 | going in and out of consciousness. | going in and out of consciousness. |
937 | 00:43:56,660 | 00:44:00,620 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
938 | 00:44:00,620 | 00:44:02,820 | And then you have to think of their gear. | And then you have to think of their gear. |
939 | 00:44:02,820 | 00:44:04,530 | Have ropes frozen into wires, | Have ropes frozen into wires, |
940 | 00:44:04,530 | 00:44:07,413 | clothing that's been wet for the last three to four days, | clothing that's been wet for the last three to four days, |
941 | 00:44:08,260 | 00:44:10,753 | they're cold, tired. | they're cold, tired. |
942 | 00:44:10,753 | 00:44:12,980 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
943 | 00:44:12,980 | 00:44:14,862 | It would have been a very serious situation indeed. | It would have been a very serious situation indeed. |
944 | 00:44:14,862 | 00:44:19,862 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
945 | 00:44:26,697 | 00:44:31,697 | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) |
946 | 00:44:37,701 | 00:44:39,589 | They heard this voice. | They heard this voice. |
947 | 00:44:39,589 | 00:44:41,910 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
948 | 00:44:41,910 | 00:44:42,970 | And they just looked at each other, | And they just looked at each other, |
949 | 00:44:42,970 | 00:44:44,705 | and they know what it is. | and they know what it is. |
950 | 00:44:44,705 | 00:44:49,705 | (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) | (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) |
951 | 00:44:51,360 | 00:44:52,320 | - [Steven] A railway guard | - [Steven] A railway guard |
952 | 00:44:52,320 | 00:44:55,540 | had gone down to the tunnel door they were trying to reach. | had gone down to the tunnel door they were trying to reach. |
953 | 00:44:55,540 | 00:44:57,545 | And he was calling out to them in the storm. | And he was calling out to them in the storm. |
954 | 00:44:57,545 | 00:45:01,516 | (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) | (wind howling) (shouting in foreign language) |
955 | 00:45:01,516 | 00:45:04,330 | - And they just shouted back, "All is well," | - And they just shouted back, "All is well," |
956 | 00:45:04,330 | 00:45:06,268 | which is classic when you think about it. | which is classic when you think about it. |
957 | 00:45:06,268 | 00:45:08,980 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
958 | 00:45:08,980 | 00:45:10,100 | Absolutely no mention of the fact | Absolutely no mention of the fact |
959 | 00:45:10,100 | 00:45:12,600 | they've got a badly injured companion, | they've got a badly injured companion, |
960 | 00:45:12,600 | 00:45:15,170 | no mention of how exhausted and how tired they are | no mention of how exhausted and how tired they are |
961 | 00:45:15,170 | 00:45:16,920 | and the danger they're in. | and the danger they're in. |
962 | 00:45:16,920 | 00:45:19,230 | That's a sort of pride, really. | That's a sort of pride, really. |
963 | 00:45:19,230 | 00:45:21,118 | They will come down together. | They will come down together. |
964 | 00:45:21,118 | 00:45:22,520 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
965 | 00:45:22,520 | 00:45:24,018 | They do not need help. | They do not need help. |
966 | 00:45:24,018 | 00:45:25,880 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
967 | 00:45:25,880 | 00:45:27,380 | But more than anything, | But more than anything, |
968 | 00:45:27,380 | 00:45:30,210 | their spirits would have just raised at that point, | their spirits would have just raised at that point, |
969 | 00:45:30,210 | 00:45:32,319 | there was someone else there. | there was someone else there. |
970 | 00:45:32,319 | 00:45:33,152 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
971 | 00:45:33,152 | 00:45:36,238 | I just have to do four abseils, possibly five. | I just have to do four abseils, possibly five. |
972 | 00:45:36,238 | 00:45:37,071 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
973 | 00:45:37,071 | 00:45:39,737 | I'll be having a cup of tea with the guard in two hours. | I'll be having a cup of tea with the guard in two hours. |
974 | 00:45:39,737 | 00:45:40,770 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
975 | 00:45:40,770 | 00:45:41,983 | It was over. | It was over. |
976 | 00:45:41,983 | 00:45:46,983 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
977 | 00:45:59,100 | 00:46:00,770 | - [Steven] As Joe is filming on the Eiger, | - [Steven] As Joe is filming on the Eiger, |
978 | 00:46:00,770 | 00:46:02,990 | the weather window starts to close. | the weather window starts to close. |
979 | 00:46:02,990 | 00:46:04,250 | (wind howling) (intense music) | (wind howling) (intense music) |
980 | 00:46:04,250 | 00:46:06,870 | A forecast comes through for heavy snow. | A forecast comes through for heavy snow. |
981 | 00:46:06,870 | 00:46:11,870 | (intense music) (chopper droning) | (intense music) (chopper droning) |
982 | 00:46:12,040 | 00:46:13,690 | The helicopter must take Joe off | The helicopter must take Joe off |
983 | 00:46:13,690 | 00:46:15,558 | before the cloud cover descends. | before the cloud cover descends. |
984 | 00:46:15,558 | 00:46:16,770 | (intense music) (chopper droning) | (intense music) (chopper droning) |
985 | 00:46:16,770 | 00:46:18,640 | From the narrow ledge on the face, | From the narrow ledge on the face, |
986 | 00:46:18,640 | 00:46:21,050 | he will have to clip back on to the winch line | he will have to clip back on to the winch line |
987 | 00:46:21,050 | 00:46:23,209 | that is just five millimeters thick. | that is just five millimeters thick. |
988 | 00:46:23,209 | 00:46:24,042 | (intense music) (chopper droning) | (intense music) (chopper droning) |
989 | 00:46:24,042 | 00:46:27,330 | But it's so thin because if the climber becomes entangled, | But it's so thin because if the climber becomes entangled, |
990 | 00:46:27,330 | 00:46:29,905 | the pilot will be forced to cut the line. | the pilot will be forced to cut the line. |
991 | 00:46:29,905 | 00:46:34,905 | (intense music) (chopper droning) | (intense music) (chopper droning) |
992 | 00:46:44,960 | 00:46:47,850 | - [Joe] You walk right on the edge of things | - [Joe] You walk right on the edge of things |
993 | 00:46:47,850 | 00:46:49,052 | in the mountains. | in the mountains. |
994 | 00:46:49,052 | 00:46:51,670 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
995 | 00:46:51,670 | 00:46:53,360 | And there's a very fine line | And there's a very fine line |
996 | 00:46:54,260 | 00:46:56,463 | between success and disaster, | between success and disaster, |
997 | 00:46:58,530 | 00:46:59,878 | between life and death. | between life and death. |
998 | 00:46:59,878 | 00:47:03,918 | (intense music) (chopper droning) | (intense music) (chopper droning) |
999 | 00:47:03,918 | 00:47:06,400 | (intense music) (men panting) | (intense music) (men panting) |
1000 | 00:47:06,400 | 00:47:07,950 | And walking on the edge of that | And walking on the edge of that |
1001 | 00:47:08,850 | 00:47:12,000 | gives you a completely different perspective on life | gives you a completely different perspective on life |
1002 | 00:47:12,000 | 00:47:14,323 | and your sense of being alive. | and your sense of being alive. |
1003 | 00:47:15,380 | 00:47:18,180 | And even when you're climbing and the conditions are great | And even when you're climbing and the conditions are great |
1004 | 00:47:18,180 | 00:47:20,090 | and everything's going swimmingly, | and everything's going swimmingly, |
1005 | 00:47:20,090 | 00:47:24,170 | you always have that little part in the back of your mind, | you always have that little part in the back of your mind, |
1006 | 00:47:24,170 | 00:47:26,770 | that's just saying, just watch out, watch out, watch out. | that's just saying, just watch out, watch out, watch out. |
1007 | 00:47:26,770 | 00:47:28,825 | It can go wrong in an instant. | It can go wrong in an instant. |
1008 | 00:47:28,825 | 00:47:30,831 | (gear rattling) (intense music) | (gear rattling) (intense music) |
1009 | 00:47:30,831 | 00:47:32,560 | - [Steven] At 2:00 p.m. that afternoon, | - [Steven] At 2:00 p.m. that afternoon, |
1010 | 00:47:32,560 | 00:47:34,750 | Andreas Hinterstoisser unclipped from the rope | Andreas Hinterstoisser unclipped from the rope |
1011 | 00:47:34,750 | 00:47:36,550 | that linked the four climbers | that linked the four climbers |
1012 | 00:47:36,550 | 00:47:38,991 | and began to prepare their final abseil. | and began to prepare their final abseil. |
1013 | 00:47:38,991 | 00:47:40,260 | (men panting) | (men panting) |
1014 | 00:47:40,260 | 00:47:42,503 | They were barely only 200 feet from safety. | They were barely only 200 feet from safety. |
1015 | 00:47:42,503 | 00:47:47,503 | (snow droning) (wind howling) | (snow droning) (wind howling) |
1016 | 00:47:58,607 | 00:48:03,607 | (hammer thumping) (snow droning) | (hammer thumping) (snow droning) |
1017 | 00:48:04,055 | 00:48:09,055 | (shouting in foreign language) (snow droning) | (shouting in foreign language) (snow droning) |
1018 | 00:48:16,560 | 00:48:19,920 | - [Joe] The violence of it, the shock of it | - [Joe] The violence of it, the shock of it |
1019 | 00:48:19,920 | 00:48:24,290 | must have been immense, a massive avalanche | must have been immense, a massive avalanche |
1020 | 00:48:24,290 | 00:48:26,933 | just caught them like a tsunami. | just caught them like a tsunami. |
1021 | 00:48:26,933 | 00:48:27,766 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
1022 | 00:48:27,766 | 00:48:30,349 | (snow droning) | (snow droning) |
1023 | 00:48:34,292 | 00:48:37,857 | It just blasted Angerer and Kurz straight off the ledge | It just blasted Angerer and Kurz straight off the ledge |
1024 | 00:48:37,857 | 00:48:39,651 | and out at the abyss below. | and out at the abyss below. |
1025 | 00:48:39,651 | 00:48:41,121 | (rope creaking) | (rope creaking) |
1026 | 00:48:41,121 | 00:48:42,146 | (Willy crashing) | (Willy crashing) |
1027 | 00:48:42,146 | 00:48:46,200 | The impact of these two yanked Rainer up against the piton. | The impact of these two yanked Rainer up against the piton. |
1028 | 00:48:47,587 | 00:48:50,254 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
1029 | 00:49:02,218 | 00:49:03,885 | - [Toni] Hey, Willy! | - [Toni] Hey, Willy! |
1030 | 00:49:06,597 | 00:49:08,200 | Willy! | Willy! |
1031 | 00:49:08,200 | 00:49:10,010 | - [Steven] Below Kurz, Willy Angerer | - [Steven] Below Kurz, Willy Angerer |
1032 | 00:49:10,010 | 00:49:11,786 | was almost certainly dead. | was almost certainly dead. |
1033 | 00:49:11,786 | 00:49:13,360 | - [Toni] Willy! | - [Toni] Willy! |
1034 | 00:49:13,360 | 00:49:15,710 | - [Steven] Killed on impact with the rock face. | - [Steven] Killed on impact with the rock face. |
1035 | 00:49:16,870 | 00:49:18,615 | And out of sight above him. | And out of sight above him. |
1036 | 00:49:18,615 | 00:49:19,690 | - Edi! | - Edi! |
1037 | 00:49:19,690 | 00:49:21,295 | - [Steven] Edi Rainer was dying too. | - [Steven] Edi Rainer was dying too. |
1038 | 00:49:21,295 | 00:49:22,128 | (placid music) - Edi! | (placid music) - Edi! |
1039 | 00:49:24,020 | 00:49:25,170 | - [Steven] The weight of the two climbers | - [Steven] The weight of the two climbers |
1040 | 00:49:25,170 | 00:49:26,690 | on the rope around his waist | on the rope around his waist |
1041 | 00:49:26,690 | 00:49:29,945 | would have crushed his diaphragm and slowly asphyxiated him. | would have crushed his diaphragm and slowly asphyxiated him. |
1042 | 00:49:29,945 | 00:49:30,876 | (placid music) (Eduard heavily breathing) | (placid music) (Eduard heavily breathing) |
1043 | 00:49:30,876 | 00:49:32,817 | It would have taken him 10 minutes to die. | It would have taken him 10 minutes to die. |
1044 | 00:49:32,817 | 00:49:35,410 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1045 | 00:49:35,410 | 00:49:38,260 | There was no sign of Andreas Hinterstoisser. | There was no sign of Andreas Hinterstoisser. |
1046 | 00:49:38,260 | 00:49:39,580 | His body was later discovered | His body was later discovered |
1047 | 00:49:39,580 | 00:49:42,955 | at the foot of the north face, 2,000 feet below. | at the foot of the north face, 2,000 feet below. |
1048 | 00:49:42,955 | 00:49:45,540 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
1049 | 00:49:45,540 | 00:49:47,744 | - Kurz was just hanging in space. | - Kurz was just hanging in space. |
1050 | 00:49:47,744 | 00:49:49,620 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
1051 | 00:49:49,620 | 00:49:51,163 | His companion dead below him, | His companion dead below him, |
1052 | 00:49:52,035 | 00:49:53,715 | and his companion dead above him. | and his companion dead above him. |
1053 | 00:49:53,715 | 00:49:57,052 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1054 | 00:49:57,052 | 00:50:00,503 | And Hinterstoisser was gone, swept out into the void. | And Hinterstoisser was gone, swept out into the void. |
1055 | 00:50:00,503 | 00:50:03,170 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1056 | 00:50:04,170 | 00:50:07,240 | I've been in a situation where people | I've been in a situation where people |
1057 | 00:50:07,240 | 00:50:08,593 | have fallen to their death, | have fallen to their death, |
1058 | 00:50:09,650 | 00:50:10,772 | close by me. | close by me. |
1059 | 00:50:10,772 | 00:50:13,610 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1060 | 00:50:13,610 | 00:50:18,277 | And it renders you almost incapable of doing anything. | And it renders you almost incapable of doing anything. |
1061 | 00:50:18,277 | 00:50:19,140 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1062 | 00:50:19,140 | 00:50:22,653 | You're so threatened by the immediacy of the death, | You're so threatened by the immediacy of the death, |
1063 | 00:50:23,690 | 00:50:28,170 | you're sort of unmanned, you're physically incapable | you're sort of unmanned, you're physically incapable |
1064 | 00:50:28,170 | 00:50:32,404 | of getting over the shock of what you've just witnessed. | of getting over the shock of what you've just witnessed. |
1065 | 00:50:32,404 | 00:50:37,404 | (placid music) (rope creaking) | (placid music) (rope creaking) |
1066 | 00:50:40,566 | 00:50:43,233 | (ice crunching) | (ice crunching) |
1067 | 00:50:46,623 | 00:50:48,530 | - [Steven] At 3:00 o'clock that afternoon, | - [Steven] At 3:00 o'clock that afternoon, |
1068 | 00:50:48,530 | 00:50:50,410 | the railway guard from the tunnel called down | the railway guard from the tunnel called down |
1069 | 00:50:50,410 | 00:50:52,245 | to the mountain guides in the valley. | to the mountain guides in the valley. |
1070 | 00:50:52,245 | 00:50:54,300 | (train droning) | (train droning) |
1071 | 00:50:54,300 | 00:50:55,370 | He said he'd gone out to call | He said he'd gone out to call |
1072 | 00:50:55,370 | 00:50:57,430 | for the four young climbers again. | for the four young climbers again. |
1073 | 00:50:57,430 | 00:51:00,720 | But this time had heard only one voice calling back, | But this time had heard only one voice calling back, |
1074 | 00:51:00,720 | 00:51:02,613 | crying desperately for help. | crying desperately for help. |
1075 | 00:51:02,613 | 00:51:05,280 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
1076 | 00:51:06,390 | 00:51:09,270 | Within an hour, a rescue party had traveled up the tunnel | Within an hour, a rescue party had traveled up the tunnel |
1077 | 00:51:09,270 | 00:51:12,096 | to the window that led directly onto the north face. | to the window that led directly onto the north face. |
1078 | 00:51:12,096 | 00:51:17,096 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
1079 | 00:51:19,580 | 00:51:21,550 | They knew if they climbed the ledge system | They knew if they climbed the ledge system |
1080 | 00:51:21,550 | 00:51:23,100 | that ran across the face, | that ran across the face, |
1081 | 00:51:23,100 | 00:51:26,157 | it would placed them somewhere below where Kurz was trapped. | it would placed them somewhere below where Kurz was trapped. |
1082 | 00:51:26,157 | 00:51:28,090 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
1083 | 00:51:28,090 | 00:51:30,000 | 700 feet from the window, | 700 feet from the window, |
1084 | 00:51:30,000 | 00:51:32,466 | they reached a point where they could hear his cries. | they reached a point where they could hear his cries. |
1085 | 00:51:32,466 | 00:51:33,299 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
1086 | 00:51:33,299 | 00:51:36,436 | But Kurz was out of sight 150 feet above them. | But Kurz was out of sight 150 feet above them. |
1087 | 00:51:36,436 | 00:51:37,615 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
1088 | 00:51:37,615 | 00:51:39,060 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
1089 | 00:51:39,060 | 00:51:40,980 | To reach him, they would have to climb a series | To reach him, they would have to climb a series |
1090 | 00:51:40,980 | 00:51:43,010 | of vertical and overhang cliffs | of vertical and overhang cliffs |
1091 | 00:51:43,010 | 00:51:45,344 | in what were now gale force winds. | in what were now gale force winds. |
1092 | 00:51:45,344 | 00:51:49,939 | (wind howling) - [Man] Toni, Toni! | (wind howling) - [Man] Toni, Toni! |
1093 | 00:51:49,939 | 00:51:54,780 | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) |
1094 | 00:51:54,780 | 00:51:56,760 | - Toni Kurz keeps imploring them, | - Toni Kurz keeps imploring them, |
1095 | 00:51:56,760 | 00:51:58,984 | you cannot get to me from below. | you cannot get to me from below. |
1096 | 00:51:58,984 | 00:52:01,050 | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) |
1097 | 00:52:01,050 | 00:52:04,552 | You must climb up and you'll be able to abseil down to me. | You must climb up and you'll be able to abseil down to me. |
1098 | 00:52:04,552 | 00:52:06,740 | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) |
1099 | 00:52:06,740 | 00:52:10,411 | But they can't do it, they can't do it in those conditions. | But they can't do it, they can't do it in those conditions. |
1100 | 00:52:10,411 | 00:52:14,020 | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) |
1101 | 00:52:14,020 | 00:52:15,521 | And it's getting on to darkness. | And it's getting on to darkness. |
1102 | 00:52:15,521 | 00:52:16,760 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
1103 | 00:52:16,760 | 00:52:19,600 | They can't afford to be pinned out in the open | They can't afford to be pinned out in the open |
1104 | 00:52:19,600 | 00:52:21,368 | in this storm, they will die too. | in this storm, they will die too. |
1105 | 00:52:21,368 | 00:52:23,980 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
1106 | 00:52:23,980 | 00:52:25,587 | And they say it to Toni, | And they say it to Toni, |
1107 | 00:52:25,587 | 00:52:29,128 | "You have to hang on until the morning, you must hang off." | "You have to hang on until the morning, you must hang off." |
1108 | 00:52:29,128 | 00:52:34,128 | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) |
1109 | 00:52:37,490 | 00:52:38,980 | It must have been heartbreaking | It must have been heartbreaking |
1110 | 00:52:38,980 | 00:52:41,560 | for those guides to leave him there. | for those guides to leave him there. |
1111 | 00:52:41,560 | 00:52:44,771 | They probably knew that he wasn't gonna make the night. | They probably knew that he wasn't gonna make the night. |
1112 | 00:52:44,771 | 00:52:46,690 | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) |
1113 | 00:52:46,690 | 00:52:49,560 | They could hear his cries coming back to them. | They could hear his cries coming back to them. |
1114 | 00:52:49,560 | 00:52:54,560 | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) | (shouting in foreign language) (wind howling) |
1115 | 00:52:59,780 | 00:53:02,310 | This was a man who would never have asked | This was a man who would never have asked |
1116 | 00:53:02,310 | 00:53:06,700 | for rescue in his life, and he was pleading almost childlike | for rescue in his life, and he was pleading almost childlike |
1117 | 00:53:06,700 | 00:53:07,788 | for them not to leave him. | for them not to leave him. |
1118 | 00:53:07,788 | 00:53:12,788 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1119 | 00:53:15,788 | 00:53:17,015 | And I can remember feeling like that. | And I can remember feeling like that. |
1120 | 00:53:17,015 | 00:53:21,050 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1121 | 00:53:21,050 | 00:53:22,873 | I hung in a very long, dark night. | I hung in a very long, dark night. |
1122 | 00:53:24,320 | 00:53:28,660 | And I can remember just, just almost being overwhelmed | And I can remember just, just almost being overwhelmed |
1123 | 00:53:28,660 | 00:53:30,455 | by the loneliness the situation. | by the loneliness the situation. |
1124 | 00:53:30,455 | 00:53:33,130 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1125 | 00:53:33,130 | 00:53:35,164 | The sense of being abandoned. | The sense of being abandoned. |
1126 | 00:53:35,164 | 00:53:40,130 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1127 | 00:53:40,130 | 00:53:42,400 | And he had known as a guide that his chances | And he had known as a guide that his chances |
1128 | 00:53:42,400 | 00:53:46,114 | of surviving that night would be slim to nil. | of surviving that night would be slim to nil. |
1129 | 00:53:46,114 | 00:53:49,413 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1130 | 00:53:49,413 | 00:53:52,263 | The cold takes you in a particularly insidious way. | The cold takes you in a particularly insidious way. |
1131 | 00:53:52,263 | 00:53:53,450 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1132 | 00:53:53,450 | 00:53:55,420 | As if it's creeping through you, | As if it's creeping through you, |
1133 | 00:53:55,420 | 00:53:58,070 | tentacles of cold is starting to creep through you, | tentacles of cold is starting to creep through you, |
1134 | 00:53:58,070 | 00:54:01,393 | starting to slow everything down, | starting to slow everything down, |
1135 | 00:54:02,510 | 00:54:04,812 | to turn things off inside. | to turn things off inside. |
1136 | 00:54:04,812 | 00:54:08,210 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1137 | 00:54:08,210 | 00:54:12,904 | And the thought of just sleeping is so seductive. | And the thought of just sleeping is so seductive. |
1138 | 00:54:12,904 | 00:54:16,210 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
1139 | 00:54:16,210 | 00:54:17,610 | It would have been so easy | It would have been so easy |
1140 | 00:54:19,510 | 00:54:20,695 | just to let it go. | just to let it go. |
1141 | 00:54:20,695 | 00:54:23,362 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
1142 | 00:54:24,200 | 00:54:28,240 | In truth, if my partner hadn't cut the rope, | In truth, if my partner hadn't cut the rope, |
1143 | 00:54:28,240 | 00:54:29,612 | I would have died of cold. | I would have died of cold. |
1144 | 00:54:29,612 | 00:54:32,279 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1145 | 00:54:36,030 | 00:54:39,707 | So, I can imagine what he felt like hanging on that rope. | So, I can imagine what he felt like hanging on that rope. |
1146 | 00:54:39,707 | 00:54:42,290 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1147 | 00:54:42,290 | 00:54:44,493 | You are helpless like that. | You are helpless like that. |
1148 | 00:54:44,493 | 00:54:45,970 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1149 | 00:54:45,970 | 00:54:48,146 | And just incredibly alone. | And just incredibly alone. |
1150 | 00:54:48,146 | 00:54:53,146 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1151 | 00:54:56,521 | 00:55:00,933 | (keyboard ticking) (wind howling) | (keyboard ticking) (wind howling) |
1152 | 00:55:00,933 | 00:55:02,540 | I knew people died in mountains, | I knew people died in mountains, |
1153 | 00:55:02,540 | 00:55:04,654 | long before I had my accident. | long before I had my accident. |
1154 | 00:55:04,654 | 00:55:06,630 | (keyboard ticking) | (keyboard ticking) |
1155 | 00:55:06,630 | 00:55:10,260 | I sort of understood you were playing a game | I sort of understood you were playing a game |
1156 | 00:55:10,260 | 00:55:12,360 | for very high stakes. | for very high stakes. |
1157 | 00:55:12,360 | 00:55:15,412 | And you might not actually have a choice over your fate. | And you might not actually have a choice over your fate. |
1158 | 00:55:15,412 | 00:55:19,030 | (placid music) (keyboard ticking) | (placid music) (keyboard ticking) |
1159 | 00:55:19,030 | 00:55:22,050 | But recovering from the accident in Peru, | But recovering from the accident in Peru, |
1160 | 00:55:22,050 | 00:55:24,060 | I wrote this book, "Touching the Void". | I wrote this book, "Touching the Void". |
1161 | 00:55:24,060 | 00:55:25,450 | In the end, I wrote it in seven weeks, | In the end, I wrote it in seven weeks, |
1162 | 00:55:25,450 | 00:55:29,824 | and I thought if it sold 500 copies, then I would be happy. | and I thought if it sold 500 copies, then I would be happy. |
1163 | 00:55:29,824 | 00:55:30,657 | (keyboard ticking) (placid music) | (keyboard ticking) (placid music) |
1164 | 00:55:30,657 | 00:55:32,483 | I discovered I had another talent. | I discovered I had another talent. |
1165 | 00:55:32,483 | 00:55:35,090 | (placid music) (keyboard ticking) | (placid music) (keyboard ticking) |
1166 | 00:55:35,090 | 00:55:39,987 | But the process of writing made me think too much | But the process of writing made me think too much |
1167 | 00:55:40,900 | 00:55:42,150 | about what we were doing, | about what we were doing, |
1168 | 00:55:43,430 | 00:55:46,350 | about the price some of us were paying for this. | about the price some of us were paying for this. |
1169 | 00:55:46,350 | 00:55:49,330 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1170 | 00:55:49,330 | 00:55:53,293 | I started thinking about the people who died. | I started thinking about the people who died. |
1171 | 00:55:53,293 | 00:55:56,180 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1172 | 00:55:56,180 | 00:55:57,757 | Some were acquaintances, and some were good friends, | Some were acquaintances, and some were good friends, |
1173 | 00:55:57,757 | 00:56:01,680 | and some were friends I never stopped thinking about, | and some were friends I never stopped thinking about, |
1174 | 00:56:01,680 | 00:56:03,560 | and some died in different ways, | and some died in different ways, |
1175 | 00:56:03,560 | 00:56:05,770 | and some died in inexplicable ways. | and some died in inexplicable ways. |
1176 | 00:56:05,770 | 00:56:07,570 | And often, when they died, | And often, when they died, |
1177 | 00:56:07,570 | 00:56:10,683 | the first thing you did was you asked how, not why, | the first thing you did was you asked how, not why, |
1178 | 00:56:11,880 | 00:56:14,909 | because you wanted to know what they did wrong. | because you wanted to know what they did wrong. |
1179 | 00:56:14,909 | 00:56:17,430 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1180 | 00:56:17,430 | 00:56:19,960 | We did something that we loved with a passion, | We did something that we loved with a passion, |
1181 | 00:56:19,960 | 00:56:21,770 | and it was life enhancing and life defining, | and it was life enhancing and life defining, |
1182 | 00:56:21,770 | 00:56:26,011 | and yet it was killing our friends, and nearly killing us. | and yet it was killing our friends, and nearly killing us. |
1183 | 00:56:26,011 | 00:56:28,678 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1184 | 00:56:31,890 | 00:56:35,220 | And I suppose when I started writing, | And I suppose when I started writing, |
1185 | 00:56:35,220 | 00:56:37,240 | I'd opened a Pandora's box of fears | I'd opened a Pandora's box of fears |
1186 | 00:56:38,659 | 00:56:40,219 | that you can never quite put the lid on. | that you can never quite put the lid on. |
1187 | 00:56:40,219 | 00:56:42,090 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1188 | 00:56:42,090 | 00:56:44,590 | Despite all the climbing I did, | Despite all the climbing I did, |
1189 | 00:56:44,590 | 00:56:48,120 | I knew that I was more exposed and more vulnerable. | I knew that I was more exposed and more vulnerable. |
1190 | 00:56:48,120 | 00:56:51,220 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1191 | 00:56:51,220 | 00:56:53,660 | And I suddenly realized my love affair | And I suddenly realized my love affair |
1192 | 00:56:53,660 | 00:56:56,297 | with risk taking had cooled. | with risk taking had cooled. |
1193 | 00:56:56,297 | 00:56:59,220 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1194 | 00:56:59,220 | 00:57:00,931 | I didn't wanna play this game anymore. | I didn't wanna play this game anymore. |
1195 | 00:57:00,931 | 00:57:03,514 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1196 | 00:57:05,629 | 00:57:10,629 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
1197 | 00:57:15,260 | 00:57:16,550 | - [Steven] A summer storm on the Eiger | - [Steven] A summer storm on the Eiger |
1198 | 00:57:16,550 | 00:57:18,700 | is often followed by a cold front. | is often followed by a cold front. |
1199 | 00:57:18,700 | 00:57:20,280 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
1200 | 00:57:20,280 | 00:57:23,080 | All the water that's been pouring down the face freezes. | All the water that's been pouring down the face freezes. |
1201 | 00:57:23,080 | 00:57:24,010 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
1202 | 00:57:24,010 | 00:57:26,793 | Ice fills every ledge, crack and foothold, | Ice fills every ledge, crack and foothold, |
1203 | 00:57:27,680 | 00:57:30,021 | and glazes every surface of the rock. | and glazes every surface of the rock. |
1204 | 00:57:30,021 | 00:57:30,920 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
1205 | 00:57:30,920 | 00:57:33,480 | During Kurz's fourth night on the Eiger, | During Kurz's fourth night on the Eiger, |
1206 | 00:57:33,480 | 00:57:36,160 | its vertical face had frozen solid. | its vertical face had frozen solid. |
1207 | 00:57:36,160 | 00:57:41,160 | (placid music) (rope creaking) | (placid music) (rope creaking) |
1208 | 00:57:43,100 | 00:57:44,700 | - [Joe] I just can't imagine how long | - [Joe] I just can't imagine how long |
1209 | 00:57:44,700 | 00:57:46,001 | that night must have been. | that night must have been. |
1210 | 00:57:46,001 | 00:57:49,000 | (rope creaking) (placid music) | (rope creaking) (placid music) |
1211 | 00:57:49,000 | 00:57:52,380 | What on earth Kurz did to hold on to life. | What on earth Kurz did to hold on to life. |
1212 | 00:57:53,380 | 00:57:56,710 | (rope creaking) (placid music) | (rope creaking) (placid music) |
1213 | 00:57:56,710 | 00:58:00,750 | He'd lost his glove and his exposed hand | He'd lost his glove and his exposed hand |
1214 | 00:58:00,750 | 00:58:03,180 | was now completely frostbitten. | was now completely frostbitten. |
1215 | 00:58:03,180 | 00:58:04,013 | (rope creaking) (placid music) | (rope creaking) (placid music) |
1216 | 00:58:04,013 | 00:58:05,670 | His arm was like a claw. | His arm was like a claw. |
1217 | 00:58:05,670 | 00:58:10,670 | (rope creaking) (placid music) | (rope creaking) (placid music) |
1218 | 00:58:13,140 | 00:58:15,277 | - [Man] Toni! (gear rattling) | - [Man] Toni! (gear rattling) |
1219 | 00:58:15,277 | 00:58:18,170 | - [Joe] And then, he would have heard the clanking of metal | - [Joe] And then, he would have heard the clanking of metal |
1220 | 00:58:18,170 | 00:58:19,700 | and the shouts of the guides | and the shouts of the guides |
1221 | 00:58:19,700 | 00:58:21,450 | as they came back along the tracks | as they came back along the tracks |
1222 | 00:58:21,450 | 00:58:23,000 | they'd made the previous night. | they'd made the previous night. |
1223 | 00:58:23,907 | 00:58:25,320 | - [Man] Toni! (placid music) | - [Man] Toni! (placid music) |
1224 | 00:58:25,320 | 00:58:28,074 | - He must have thought they're guides, | - He must have thought they're guides, |
1225 | 00:58:28,074 | 00:58:28,907 | they're just gonna get me down, | they're just gonna get me down, |
1226 | 00:58:28,907 | 00:58:30,309 | they're just gonna get me down. | they're just gonna get me down. |
1227 | 00:58:30,309 | 00:58:32,976 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
1228 | 00:58:34,569 | 00:58:35,920 | - [Steven] For the second time, | - [Steven] For the second time, |
1229 | 00:58:35,920 | 00:58:38,623 | the rescue team made it to within 150 feet of Kurz, | the rescue team made it to within 150 feet of Kurz, |
1230 | 00:58:39,740 | 00:58:41,030 | but the vertical cliffs above them | but the vertical cliffs above them |
1231 | 00:58:41,030 | 00:58:43,772 | were now sheathed in millimeter thick black ice. | were now sheathed in millimeter thick black ice. |
1232 | 00:58:43,772 | 00:58:48,060 | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) | (intense music) (speaking in foreign language) |
1233 | 00:58:48,060 | 00:58:51,460 | The rescuers reported that climbing up was impossible. | The rescuers reported that climbing up was impossible. |
1234 | 00:58:51,460 | 00:58:52,293 | - Toni! | - Toni! |
1235 | 00:58:52,293 | 00:58:54,120 | - [Steven] Somehow, they had to find a way | - [Steven] Somehow, they had to find a way |
1236 | 00:58:54,120 | 00:58:55,736 | to get Kurz down. | to get Kurz down. |
1237 | 00:58:55,736 | 00:58:56,569 | (shouting in foreign language) (intense music) | (shouting in foreign language) (intense music) |
1238 | 00:58:56,569 | 00:58:58,320 | But the rope he was hanging wasn't long enough | But the rope he was hanging wasn't long enough |
1239 | 00:58:58,320 | 00:58:59,422 | to reach them. | to reach them. |
1240 | 00:58:59,422 | 00:59:00,255 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
1241 | 00:59:00,255 | 00:59:02,430 | So first, Kurz had to free himself. | So first, Kurz had to free himself. |
1242 | 00:59:02,430 | 00:59:04,648 | And then, he had to find more rope. | And then, he had to find more rope. |
1243 | 00:59:04,648 | 00:59:05,530 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
1244 | 00:59:05,530 | 00:59:07,287 | - They said to Toni, | - They said to Toni, |
1245 | 00:59:07,287 | 00:59:11,509 | "The only way you can do that is cut Angerer free." | "The only way you can do that is cut Angerer free." |
1246 | 00:59:11,509 | 00:59:12,530 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
1247 | 00:59:12,530 | 00:59:14,173 | Angerer is hanging below him, | Angerer is hanging below him, |
1248 | 00:59:15,580 | 00:59:17,155 | frozen to the rock wall. | frozen to the rock wall. |
1249 | 00:59:17,155 | 00:59:20,860 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
1250 | 00:59:20,860 | 00:59:22,922 | And he's faced with this awful predicament. | And he's faced with this awful predicament. |
1251 | 00:59:22,922 | 00:59:27,922 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
1252 | 00:59:28,530 | 00:59:32,800 | He has to get his knife and hack away | He has to get his knife and hack away |
1253 | 00:59:32,800 | 00:59:34,963 | at the frozen fibers of the rope. | at the frozen fibers of the rope. |
1254 | 00:59:34,963 | 00:59:37,770 | (intense music) (gear rattling) | (intense music) (gear rattling) |
1255 | 00:59:37,770 | 00:59:42,730 | This is a man he's just spent the last four days living with | This is a man he's just spent the last four days living with |
1256 | 00:59:42,730 | 00:59:47,730 | in great intensity, he's just gonna cut him free. | in great intensity, he's just gonna cut him free. |
1257 | 00:59:47,815 | 00:59:51,428 | (gear rattling) (intense music) | (gear rattling) (intense music) |
1258 | 00:59:51,428 | 00:59:54,095 | (rope creaking) | (rope creaking) |
1259 | 00:59:57,860 | 00:59:59,250 | - [Steven] But cutting away Willy Angerer | - [Steven] But cutting away Willy Angerer |
1260 | 00:59:59,250 | 01:00:00,633 | was just the start. | was just the start. |
1261 | 01:00:00,633 | 01:00:02,790 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
1262 | 01:00:02,790 | 01:00:04,980 | To make enough rope to reach the rescuers, | To make enough rope to reach the rescuers, |
1263 | 01:00:04,980 | 01:00:08,473 | Kurz had to climb up and cutaway Edi Rainer too. | Kurz had to climb up and cutaway Edi Rainer too. |
1264 | 01:00:08,473 | 01:00:12,131 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1265 | 01:00:12,131 | 01:00:13,850 | (chattering) (placid music) | (chattering) (placid music) |
1266 | 01:00:13,850 | 01:00:16,420 | In the valley, the drama unfolding on the north face | In the valley, the drama unfolding on the north face |
1267 | 01:00:16,420 | 01:00:17,968 | was drawing a crowd. | was drawing a crowd. |
1268 | 01:00:17,968 | 01:00:19,260 | (chattering) (placid music) | (chattering) (placid music) |
1269 | 01:00:19,260 | 01:00:21,200 | For hour after hour that day, | For hour after hour that day, |
1270 | 01:00:21,200 | 01:00:24,099 | they waited for glimpses of Kurz between the clouds. | they waited for glimpses of Kurz between the clouds. |
1271 | 01:00:24,099 | 01:00:27,800 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
1272 | 01:00:27,800 | 01:00:31,200 | It was mid morning by the time he started his slow | It was mid morning by the time he started his slow |
1273 | 01:00:31,200 | 01:00:33,798 | and painful progress up the rope. | and painful progress up the rope. |
1274 | 01:00:33,798 | 01:00:34,631 | (placid music) (gear rattling) | (placid music) (gear rattling) |
1275 | 01:00:34,631 | 01:00:37,020 | - [Joe] He had to get up about five, 10 feet, | - [Joe] He had to get up about five, 10 feet, |
1276 | 01:00:37,020 | 01:00:39,247 | and he got to a point where the rock steepened. | and he got to a point where the rock steepened. |
1277 | 01:00:39,247 | 01:00:44,247 | (placid music) (gear rattling) | (placid music) (gear rattling) |
1278 | 01:00:46,365 | 01:00:47,780 | And then he could hand over hand up the rope, | And then he could hand over hand up the rope, |
1279 | 01:00:47,780 | 01:00:51,944 | using his feet on the rock, get himself up to Rainer. | using his feet on the rock, get himself up to Rainer. |
1280 | 01:00:51,944 | 01:00:56,163 | (placid music) - [Toni] Edi, Edi, Edi. | (placid music) - [Toni] Edi, Edi, Edi. |
1281 | 01:00:56,163 | 01:01:01,163 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1282 | 01:01:03,970 | 01:01:05,950 | - [Steven] Kurz needed 150 feet of rope | - [Steven] Kurz needed 150 feet of rope |
1283 | 01:01:05,950 | 01:01:07,378 | to reach the rescuers. | to reach the rescuers. |
1284 | 01:01:07,378 | 01:01:11,600 | (intense music) (hammer tapping) | (intense music) (hammer tapping) |
1285 | 01:01:11,600 | 01:01:14,561 | But even when he'd cut Edi free, he didn't have enough. | But even when he'd cut Edi free, he didn't have enough. |
1286 | 01:01:14,561 | 01:01:16,490 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
1287 | 01:01:16,490 | 01:01:18,520 | The only way to make more was | The only way to make more was |
1288 | 01:01:18,520 | 01:01:21,350 | to unravel the frozen three ply rope | to unravel the frozen three ply rope |
1289 | 01:01:21,350 | 01:01:23,321 | with his frostbitten hands. | with his frostbitten hands. |
1290 | 01:01:23,321 | 01:01:24,850 | (intense music) (wind howling) | (intense music) (wind howling) |
1291 | 01:01:24,850 | 01:01:27,870 | - [Joe] I just think about what it was like. | - [Joe] I just think about what it was like. |
1292 | 01:01:29,300 | 01:01:32,550 | Just all night, stay awake, stay awake. | Just all night, stay awake, stay awake. |
1293 | 01:01:32,550 | 01:01:34,240 | Don't let the cold take you. | Don't let the cold take you. |
1294 | 01:01:34,240 | 01:01:35,644 | They'll come for me in the morning. | They'll come for me in the morning. |
1295 | 01:01:35,644 | 01:01:37,511 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1296 | 01:01:37,511 | 01:01:39,260 | And when they come for you in the morning, | And when they come for you in the morning, |
1297 | 01:01:39,260 | 01:01:42,130 | there's yet another impossible task set to you. | there's yet another impossible task set to you. |
1298 | 01:01:42,130 | 01:01:44,212 | And then, another one, and another one. | And then, another one, and another one. |
1299 | 01:01:44,212 | 01:01:49,212 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1300 | 01:01:50,524 | 01:01:51,662 | That in a way haunts me. | That in a way haunts me. |
1301 | 01:01:51,662 | 01:01:56,662 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1302 | 01:01:58,970 | 01:02:01,094 | It wasn't just luck that I survived. | It wasn't just luck that I survived. |
1303 | 01:02:01,094 | 01:02:02,760 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1304 | 01:02:02,760 | 01:02:03,858 | I made an effort. | I made an effort. |
1305 | 01:02:03,858 | 01:02:05,410 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1306 | 01:02:05,410 | 01:02:09,342 | It was all I had to do once I found a way out, is endure. | It was all I had to do once I found a way out, is endure. |
1307 | 01:02:09,342 | 01:02:11,140 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1308 | 01:02:11,140 | 01:02:13,383 | It wasn't easy, but that's all I had to do. | It wasn't easy, but that's all I had to do. |
1309 | 01:02:13,383 | 01:02:14,460 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1310 | 01:02:14,460 | 01:02:18,490 | So, I know what strength of mind it takes | So, I know what strength of mind it takes |
1311 | 01:02:18,490 | 01:02:21,194 | to just keep death away. | to just keep death away. |
1312 | 01:02:21,194 | 01:02:26,194 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1313 | 01:02:30,410 | 01:02:33,410 | - [Steven] It took Kurz five hours to unravel the rope | - [Steven] It took Kurz five hours to unravel the rope |
1314 | 01:02:33,410 | 01:02:35,005 | and knot the pieces together. | and knot the pieces together. |
1315 | 01:02:35,005 | 01:02:39,000 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1316 | 01:02:39,000 | 01:02:41,970 | But when he finished, he had a single strand | But when he finished, he had a single strand |
1317 | 01:02:41,970 | 01:02:44,590 | that last linked him to the rescuers, | that last linked him to the rescuers, |
1318 | 01:02:44,590 | 01:02:46,717 | just 150 feet below him. | just 150 feet below him. |
1319 | 01:02:46,717 | 01:02:49,674 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1320 | 01:02:49,674 | 01:02:51,870 | - [Joe] Now, he couldn't abseil on this rope, | - [Joe] Now, he couldn't abseil on this rope, |
1321 | 01:02:51,870 | 01:02:55,280 | 'cause it was only a single strand, it wasn't strong enough. | 'cause it was only a single strand, it wasn't strong enough. |
1322 | 01:02:55,280 | 01:02:56,680 | But he could pull a rope up. | But he could pull a rope up. |
1323 | 01:02:57,850 | 01:03:02,685 | And the guide attached pitons and a climbing rope. | And the guide attached pitons and a climbing rope. |
1324 | 01:03:02,685 | 01:03:05,047 | - Toni (shouts in foreign language). | - Toni (shouts in foreign language). |
1325 | 01:03:05,047 | 01:03:07,947 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1326 | 01:03:07,947 | 01:03:10,410 | - [Steven] But as Kurz began to pull up the rope, | - [Steven] But as Kurz began to pull up the rope, |
1327 | 01:03:10,410 | 01:03:12,746 | the rescuers realized it wasn't long enough. | the rescuers realized it wasn't long enough. |
1328 | 01:03:12,746 | 01:03:16,145 | (placid music) - [Man] Toni, Toni, stop! | (placid music) - [Man] Toni, Toni, stop! |
1329 | 01:03:16,145 | 01:03:16,978 | - [Steven] So, they go to another. | - [Steven] So, they go to another. |
1330 | 01:03:16,978 | 01:03:17,811 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1331 | 01:03:17,811 | 01:03:20,287 | And then, they joined the two ropes with a knot. | And then, they joined the two ropes with a knot. |
1332 | 01:03:20,287 | 01:03:23,220 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1333 | 01:03:23,220 | 01:03:24,120 | - Toni, (shouts in foreign language). | - Toni, (shouts in foreign language). |
1334 | 01:03:25,386 | 01:03:27,787 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1335 | 01:03:27,787 | 01:03:32,787 | - And they watched this bunch of pitons and the rope | - And they watched this bunch of pitons and the rope |
1336 | 01:03:32,820 | 01:03:35,464 | gradually going up painfully slow. | gradually going up painfully slow. |
1337 | 01:03:35,464 | 01:03:40,464 | (placid music) (gear rattling) | (placid music) (gear rattling) |
1338 | 01:03:40,940 | 01:03:44,383 | All he now had to do, all he had to do, | All he now had to do, all he had to do, |
1339 | 01:03:46,670 | 01:03:49,655 | was abseil down to safety. | was abseil down to safety. |
1340 | 01:03:49,655 | 01:03:54,655 | (wind howling) (placid music) | (wind howling) (placid music) |
1341 | 01:03:59,570 | 01:04:02,300 | - [Steven] On the afternoon of his fifth day on the Eiger, | - [Steven] On the afternoon of his fifth day on the Eiger, |
1342 | 01:04:02,300 | 01:04:05,133 | Toni Kurz began his descent towards the rescue team. | Toni Kurz began his descent towards the rescue team. |
1343 | 01:04:06,000 | 01:04:08,610 | He had 150 feet of broken ground | He had 150 feet of broken ground |
1344 | 01:04:08,610 | 01:04:11,632 | and one vertical and overhanging cliff to abseil. | and one vertical and overhanging cliff to abseil. |
1345 | 01:04:11,632 | 01:04:12,550 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1346 | 01:04:12,550 | 01:04:14,780 | If the rescuers had calculated right, | If the rescuers had calculated right, |
1347 | 01:04:14,780 | 01:04:17,280 | the two climbing ropes they that knotted together | the two climbing ropes they that knotted together |
1348 | 01:04:17,280 | 01:04:19,670 | would be just enough to bring the weak | would be just enough to bring the weak |
1349 | 01:04:19,670 | 01:04:21,401 | and exhausted climber down. | and exhausted climber down. |
1350 | 01:04:21,401 | 01:04:23,780 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1351 | 01:04:23,780 | 01:04:27,410 | - This is the painfully slow, inch by inch, | - This is the painfully slow, inch by inch, |
1352 | 01:04:27,410 | 01:04:29,990 | jerking down movement of a man | jerking down movement of a man |
1353 | 01:04:29,990 | 01:04:33,691 | who is at the absolute limit of his physical strength. | who is at the absolute limit of his physical strength. |
1354 | 01:04:33,691 | 01:04:35,440 | (placid music) (gear rattling) | (placid music) (gear rattling) |
1355 | 01:04:35,440 | 01:04:37,560 | His hands were frost bitten, | His hands were frost bitten, |
1356 | 01:04:37,560 | 01:04:40,744 | and he did what any sensible person would do. | and he did what any sensible person would do. |
1357 | 01:04:40,744 | 01:04:41,620 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1358 | 01:04:41,620 | 01:04:43,150 | He got the abseil rope, | He got the abseil rope, |
1359 | 01:04:43,150 | 01:04:45,840 | and he clipped it through his carabiner | and he clipped it through his carabiner |
1360 | 01:04:45,840 | 01:04:48,270 | through a snap link at his waist, | through a snap link at his waist, |
1361 | 01:04:48,270 | 01:04:51,330 | because he knew with his frozen hands and his frozen arm, | because he knew with his frozen hands and his frozen arm, |
1362 | 01:04:51,330 | 01:04:53,093 | he would have very little control. | he would have very little control. |
1363 | 01:04:53,093 | 01:04:54,770 | (placid music) (gear rattling) | (placid music) (gear rattling) |
1364 | 01:04:54,770 | 01:04:57,413 | And the guides are now looking up. | And the guides are now looking up. |
1365 | 01:04:57,413 | 01:04:58,530 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1366 | 01:04:58,530 | 01:05:01,664 | They see his legs appearing over the overhang. | They see his legs appearing over the overhang. |
1367 | 01:05:01,664 | 01:05:02,780 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1368 | 01:05:02,780 | 01:05:04,530 | They are going to get him. | They are going to get him. |
1369 | 01:05:04,530 | 01:05:06,960 | He was almost within reaching distance. | He was almost within reaching distance. |
1370 | 01:05:06,960 | 01:05:09,627 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1371 | 01:05:13,730 | 01:05:15,593 | But as he starts to come down, | But as he starts to come down, |
1372 | 01:05:17,020 | 01:05:20,622 | he sees the knot joining the two ropes. | he sees the knot joining the two ropes. |
1373 | 01:05:20,622 | 01:05:21,800 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1374 | 01:05:21,800 | 01:05:24,312 | It's about 50 feet off the ground. | It's about 50 feet off the ground. |
1375 | 01:05:24,312 | 01:05:25,770 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1376 | 01:05:25,770 | 01:05:29,087 | And as Kurz inches down towards safety, | And as Kurz inches down towards safety, |
1377 | 01:05:30,210 | 01:05:34,967 | he feels below him the knot tight against his fists. | he feels below him the knot tight against his fists. |
1378 | 01:05:34,967 | 01:05:36,160 | (intense music) | (intense music) |
1379 | 01:05:36,160 | 01:05:39,198 | And he knows instantly what the problem is. | And he knows instantly what the problem is. |
1380 | 01:05:39,198 | 01:05:44,198 | (gear rattling) (wind howling) | (gear rattling) (wind howling) |
1381 | 01:05:49,678 | 01:05:52,809 | The knot is jammed against the snap link. | The knot is jammed against the snap link. |
1382 | 01:05:52,809 | 01:05:56,170 | (placid music) (rope creaking) | (placid music) (rope creaking) |
1383 | 01:05:56,170 | 01:05:59,580 | And he's now just swinging in space, | And he's now just swinging in space, |
1384 | 01:05:59,580 | 01:06:01,940 | out of reach of the guides. (speaking in foreign language) | out of reach of the guides. (speaking in foreign language) |
1385 | 01:06:01,940 | 01:06:04,460 | Off to the side from them, off to the left. | Off to the side from them, off to the left. |
1386 | 01:06:04,460 | 01:06:05,630 | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) |
1387 | 01:06:05,630 | 01:06:08,598 | They had traversed as far around as they could reach. | They had traversed as far around as they could reach. |
1388 | 01:06:08,598 | 01:06:10,022 | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) | (speaking in foreign language) (placid music) |
1389 | 01:06:10,022 | 01:06:11,502 | And then the face dropped away below them. | And then the face dropped away below them. |
1390 | 01:06:11,502 | 01:06:14,790 | (placid music) (rope creaking) | (placid music) (rope creaking) |
1391 | 01:06:14,790 | 01:06:18,600 | If he'd managed to abseil down to a point that was level, | If he'd managed to abseil down to a point that was level, |
1392 | 01:06:18,600 | 01:06:22,332 | they could have thrown a rope for him, pulled him across. | they could have thrown a rope for him, pulled him across. |
1393 | 01:06:22,332 | 01:06:24,680 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1394 | 01:06:24,680 | 01:06:27,960 | While he was above them, they could do nothing for him, | While he was above them, they could do nothing for him, |
1395 | 01:06:27,960 | 01:06:29,100 | couldn't throw a rope to him, | couldn't throw a rope to him, |
1396 | 01:06:29,100 | 01:06:31,022 | they couldn't pull him down to them. | they couldn't pull him down to them. |
1397 | 01:06:31,022 | 01:06:31,855 | There was nothing they could do. | There was nothing they could do. |
1398 | 01:06:31,855 | 01:06:33,084 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1399 | 01:06:33,084 | 01:06:35,540 | And he knows if he can't get this knot | And he knows if he can't get this knot |
1400 | 01:06:35,540 | 01:06:38,941 | through the snap link, he's finished. | through the snap link, he's finished. |
1401 | 01:06:38,941 | 01:06:43,941 | (yelling in foreign language) (intense music) | (yelling in foreign language) (intense music) |
1402 | 01:06:45,520 | 01:06:49,680 | And guides there, helplessly screaming encouragement to him, | And guides there, helplessly screaming encouragement to him, |
1403 | 01:06:49,680 | 01:06:53,269 | you can do it, come one, just one more effort. | you can do it, come one, just one more effort. |
1404 | 01:06:53,269 | 01:06:55,068 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1405 | 01:06:55,068 | 01:06:57,140 | (Toni screaming) (rope creaking) | (Toni screaming) (rope creaking) |
1406 | 01:06:57,140 | 01:07:01,130 | They could hear him mumbling unintelligibly to himself, | They could hear him mumbling unintelligibly to himself, |
1407 | 01:07:01,130 | 01:07:03,970 | trying to exhort himself for one last effort | trying to exhort himself for one last effort |
1408 | 01:07:03,970 | 01:07:05,796 | to force this knot through. | to force this knot through. |
1409 | 01:07:05,796 | 01:07:10,175 | (placid music) (rope creaking) | (placid music) (rope creaking) |
1410 | 01:07:10,175 | 01:07:11,008 | But it wouldn't go. | But it wouldn't go. |
1411 | 01:07:11,008 | 01:07:16,008 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1412 | 01:07:16,040 | 01:07:18,673 | Suddenly, he sat forward. | Suddenly, he sat forward. |
1413 | 01:07:19,980 | 01:07:21,783 | He stopped fighting the knot. | He stopped fighting the knot. |
1414 | 01:07:21,783 | 01:07:22,616 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1415 | 01:07:22,616 | 01:07:26,307 | And he said, in a clear, strong voice. | And he said, in a clear, strong voice. |
1416 | 01:07:26,307 | 01:07:31,307 | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) | (placid music) (speaking in foreign language) |
1417 | 01:07:31,977 | 01:07:33,318 | "I'm finished." | "I'm finished." |
1418 | 01:07:33,318 | 01:07:35,985 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1419 | 01:07:44,360 | 01:07:47,823 | I suppose I look at Toni Kurz and the manner of his death, | I suppose I look at Toni Kurz and the manner of his death, |
1420 | 01:07:48,970 | 01:07:51,914 | and I know that that should have been me. | and I know that that should have been me. |
1421 | 01:07:51,914 | 01:07:52,747 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1422 | 01:07:52,747 | 01:07:54,543 | That his story should have been mine. | That his story should have been mine. |
1423 | 01:07:54,543 | 01:07:56,050 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1424 | 01:07:56,050 | 01:08:00,946 | In truth, I should have died on a rope in Peru. | In truth, I should have died on a rope in Peru. |
1425 | 01:08:00,946 | 01:08:02,710 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1426 | 01:08:02,710 | 01:08:04,760 | And that will never be explainable to me, | And that will never be explainable to me, |
1427 | 01:08:05,650 | 01:08:09,778 | why I was allowed to live and he wasn't. | why I was allowed to live and he wasn't. |
1428 | 01:08:09,778 | 01:08:12,390 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1429 | 01:08:12,390 | 01:08:14,800 | - [Steven] The rescuers who watched Kurz die, | - [Steven] The rescuers who watched Kurz die, |
1430 | 01:08:14,800 | 01:08:16,775 | were never able to reach his body. | were never able to reach his body. |
1431 | 01:08:16,775 | 01:08:18,270 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1432 | 01:08:18,270 | 01:08:20,820 | He was finally cut free by a team of mountain guides | He was finally cut free by a team of mountain guides |
1433 | 01:08:20,820 | 01:08:21,989 | from Germany. | from Germany. |
1434 | 01:08:21,989 | 01:08:22,900 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1435 | 01:08:22,900 | 01:08:25,748 | Who arrived just too late to help in the rescue. | Who arrived just too late to help in the rescue. |
1436 | 01:08:25,748 | 01:08:28,320 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1437 | 01:08:28,320 | 01:08:30,040 | Three days after his death, | Three days after his death, |
1438 | 01:08:30,040 | 01:08:32,170 | the Swiss authorities banned all climbers | the Swiss authorities banned all climbers |
1439 | 01:08:32,170 | 01:08:35,500 | from the north face, but four months later, | from the north face, but four months later, |
1440 | 01:08:35,500 | 01:08:38,498 | after a legal challenge, the ban was lifted. | after a legal challenge, the ban was lifted. |
1441 | 01:08:38,498 | 01:08:39,860 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1442 | 01:08:39,860 | 01:08:41,670 | For ambitious young climbers, | For ambitious young climbers, |
1443 | 01:08:41,670 | 01:08:43,660 | another public tragedy had only added | another public tragedy had only added |
1444 | 01:08:43,660 | 01:08:45,407 | to the legend of the Eiger. | to the legend of the Eiger. |
1445 | 01:08:45,407 | 01:08:48,430 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1446 | 01:08:48,430 | 01:08:50,610 | Toni Kurz and his fellow climbers, | Toni Kurz and his fellow climbers, |
1447 | 01:08:50,610 | 01:08:52,510 | Edi Rainer and Willy Angerer, | Edi Rainer and Willy Angerer, |
1448 | 01:08:52,510 | 01:08:55,700 | had watched as Andreas Hinterstoisser unlocked the heart | had watched as Andreas Hinterstoisser unlocked the heart |
1449 | 01:08:55,700 | 01:08:56,879 | of the north face. | of the north face. |
1450 | 01:08:56,879 | 01:08:57,830 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1451 | 01:08:57,830 | 01:09:00,080 | In honor of his brilliant climb, | In honor of his brilliant climb, |
1452 | 01:09:00,080 | 01:09:03,096 | it was called the Hinterstoisser Traverse. | it was called the Hinterstoisser Traverse. |
1453 | 01:09:03,096 | 01:09:05,330 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1454 | 01:09:05,330 | 01:09:07,980 | And using that route, a team of German climbers | And using that route, a team of German climbers |
1455 | 01:09:07,980 | 01:09:11,936 | made the first ascent two years later in 1938. | made the first ascent two years later in 1938. |
1456 | 01:09:11,936 | 01:09:12,769 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1457 | 01:09:12,769 | 01:09:15,690 | In all, eight climbers died trying | In all, eight climbers died trying |
1458 | 01:09:15,690 | 01:09:19,492 | before the last great north face of the Alps was conquered. | before the last great north face of the Alps was conquered. |
1459 | 01:09:19,492 | 01:09:22,630 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1460 | 01:09:22,630 | 01:09:26,276 | Of all of them, Toni Kurz proved the hardest to forget. | Of all of them, Toni Kurz proved the hardest to forget. |
1461 | 01:09:26,276 | 01:09:27,410 | (wind blowing) | (wind blowing) |
1462 | 01:09:27,410 | 01:09:29,600 | As Joe prepared to head home, | As Joe prepared to head home, |
1463 | 01:09:29,600 | 01:09:32,110 | he made one last climb to look across | he made one last climb to look across |
1464 | 01:09:32,110 | 01:09:33,986 | to the mountain where he died. | to the mountain where he died. |
1465 | 01:09:33,986 | 01:09:37,180 | (wind howling) | (wind howling) |
1466 | 01:09:37,180 | 01:09:40,203 | - I read the story of Toni Kurz at 14. | - I read the story of Toni Kurz at 14. |
1467 | 01:09:41,310 | 01:09:43,863 | It stuck with me for the rest of my life. | It stuck with me for the rest of my life. |
1468 | 01:09:43,863 | 01:09:44,930 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1469 | 01:09:44,930 | 01:09:49,412 | That to me just seems the most dreadful way to die. | That to me just seems the most dreadful way to die. |
1470 | 01:09:49,412 | 01:09:53,079 | (placid music) (Joe panting) | (placid music) (Joe panting) |
1471 | 01:09:53,079 | 01:09:55,111 | And yet, somehow, it inspired me. | And yet, somehow, it inspired me. |
1472 | 01:09:55,111 | 01:09:58,100 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1473 | 01:09:58,100 | 01:09:59,980 | Why on earth would that inspire you to climb? | Why on earth would that inspire you to climb? |
1474 | 01:09:59,980 | 01:10:04,740 | Well, because he never gave up. | Well, because he never gave up. |
1475 | 01:10:04,740 | 01:10:06,110 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1476 | 01:10:06,110 | 01:10:10,081 | Right to the end, he thought he could win through. | Right to the end, he thought he could win through. |
1477 | 01:10:10,081 | 01:10:11,570 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1478 | 01:10:11,570 | 01:10:14,410 | He display to me something quite extraordinary | He display to me something quite extraordinary |
1479 | 01:10:14,410 | 01:10:17,610 | about the human spirit, the ability to just, | about the human spirit, the ability to just, |
1480 | 01:10:17,610 | 01:10:19,720 | despite anything that's happening to you, | despite anything that's happening to you, |
1481 | 01:10:19,720 | 01:10:22,341 | to just keep on going. | to just keep on going. |
1482 | 01:10:22,341 | 01:10:23,820 | (placid music) (wind howling) | (placid music) (wind howling) |
1483 | 01:10:23,820 | 01:10:26,668 | And he deserved to survive, he deserved to live. | And he deserved to survive, he deserved to live. |
1484 | 01:10:26,668 | 01:10:29,640 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1485 | 01:10:29,640 | 01:10:31,380 | The photograph I always remember | The photograph I always remember |
1486 | 01:10:32,370 | 01:10:36,510 | is of a young, smiling, tussle haired guide, | is of a young, smiling, tussle haired guide, |
1487 | 01:10:36,510 | 01:10:37,650 | laughing at the camera | laughing at the camera |
1488 | 01:10:37,650 | 01:10:39,728 | with the adventure of the climb ahead of him. | with the adventure of the climb ahead of him. |
1489 | 01:10:39,728 | 01:10:41,660 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1490 | 01:10:41,660 | 01:10:45,329 | And I thought, he thought that was worth living for. | And I thought, he thought that was worth living for. |
1491 | 01:10:45,329 | 01:10:46,370 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1492 | 01:10:46,370 | 01:10:48,437 | I better go and try and see if I can do that. | I better go and try and see if I can do that. |
1493 | 01:10:48,437 | 01:10:51,340 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1494 | 01:10:51,340 | 01:10:53,090 | If you were going to risk all that, | If you were going to risk all that, |
1495 | 01:10:54,470 | 01:10:58,470 | not just risk the hardship and the pain, | not just risk the hardship and the pain, |
1496 | 01:10:58,470 | 01:11:02,973 | but risk your life, put everything on the line for a dream, | but risk your life, put everything on the line for a dream, |
1497 | 01:11:04,970 | 01:11:06,263 | for something that's worth nothing, | for something that's worth nothing, |
1498 | 01:11:06,263 | 01:11:08,113 | that can't be proved to anybody, | that can't be proved to anybody, |
1499 | 01:11:09,380 | 01:11:13,053 | you just have the transient moment on a summit. | you just have the transient moment on a summit. |
1500 | 01:11:14,510 | 01:11:17,178 | When you come back down to the valley, it goes. | When you come back down to the valley, it goes. |
1501 | 01:11:17,178 | 01:11:18,290 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1502 | 01:11:18,290 | 01:11:22,295 | It is actually a completely illogical thing to do. | It is actually a completely illogical thing to do. |
1503 | 01:11:22,295 | 01:11:25,070 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1504 | 01:11:25,070 | 01:11:29,324 | It's not justified by any rational terms. | It's not justified by any rational terms. |
1505 | 01:11:29,324 | 01:11:32,150 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1506 | 01:11:32,150 | 01:11:33,775 | That's probably why you do it. | That's probably why you do it. |
1507 | 01:11:33,775 | 01:11:38,775 | (gear rattling) (placid music) | (gear rattling) (placid music) |
1508 | 01:11:41,140 | 01:11:43,373 | My dream is to climb the Eiger. | My dream is to climb the Eiger. |
1509 | 01:11:43,373 | 01:11:44,350 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1510 | 01:11:44,350 | 01:11:46,073 | And it just never turned out like that. | And it just never turned out like that. |
1511 | 01:11:46,073 | 01:11:47,230 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1512 | 01:11:47,230 | 01:11:48,963 | I haven't climbed for three years. | I haven't climbed for three years. |
1513 | 01:11:48,963 | 01:11:50,550 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1514 | 01:11:50,550 | 01:11:52,324 | I lost the passion to do it. | I lost the passion to do it. |
1515 | 01:11:52,324 | 01:11:53,398 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1516 | 01:11:53,398 | 01:11:56,080 | I don't have that sort of immortality of youth | I don't have that sort of immortality of youth |
1517 | 01:11:56,080 | 01:11:59,829 | that it'll never happen to me, self confidence. | that it'll never happen to me, self confidence. |
1518 | 01:11:59,829 | 01:12:01,720 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1519 | 01:12:01,720 | 01:12:05,318 | It's an awareness of frailty I never had when I was 20. | It's an awareness of frailty I never had when I was 20. |
1520 | 01:12:05,318 | 01:12:07,870 | (placid music) (train droning) | (placid music) (train droning) |
1521 | 01:12:07,870 | 01:12:09,230 | But I'm not saying never, | But I'm not saying never, |
1522 | 01:12:09,230 | 01:12:10,766 | 'cause I know what am I'm like. | 'cause I know what am I'm like. |
1523 | 01:12:10,766 | 01:12:12,840 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1524 | 01:12:12,840 | 01:12:14,450 | And coming back here to do this, | And coming back here to do this, |
1525 | 01:12:14,450 | 01:12:16,120 | the face was in perfect condition, | the face was in perfect condition, |
1526 | 01:12:16,120 | 01:12:18,480 | and the meadows were like the summer, | and the meadows were like the summer, |
1527 | 01:12:18,480 | 01:12:21,790 | I just felt that old rush coming back. | I just felt that old rush coming back. |
1528 | 01:12:21,790 | 01:12:24,373 | (placid music) | (placid music) |
1529 | 01:12:25,348 | 01:12:26,639 | Oh, God, you idiot. | Oh, God, you idiot. |
1530 | 01:12:26,639 | 01:12:29,306 | (placid music) | (placid music) |