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1 00:00:01,085 00:00:07,466 ((480p & 720p Movie Download | Mkvking.com)) ((480p & 720p Movie Download | Mkvking.com))
2 00:00:12,430 00:00:14,974 (dog barking) (dog barking)
3 00:00:19,937 00:00:22,606 (crowd cheering) (crowd cheering)
4 00:00:25,943 00:00:31,115 (bell ringing) (bell ringing)
5 00:00:39,707 00:00:42,918 (intriguing music) (intriguing music)
6 00:00:49,759 00:00:52,511 - It was morning again in America. - It was morning again in America.
7 00:00:52,678 00:00:56,140 Millions of men and women were going to work. Millions of men and women were going to work.
8 00:00:58,559 00:01:03,397 And high up above the streets, in his Olympic Tower, And high up above the streets, in his Olympic Tower,
9 00:01:03,564 00:01:06,442 one of America's most celebrated self-made men one of America's most celebrated self-made men
10 00:01:06,609 00:01:08,778 - The most successful single individual - The most successful single individual
11 00:01:08,944 00:01:10,946 in the history of American fashion. in the history of American fashion.
12 00:01:11,113 00:01:12,531 Ladies and gentlemen, Halston. Ladies and gentlemen, Halston.
13 00:01:12,698 00:01:14,325 (audio screeching) (audio screeching)
14 00:01:14,492 00:01:16,911 - was nowhere in sight. - was nowhere in sight.
15 00:01:17,077 00:01:19,663 (dramatic music) (dramatic music)
16 00:01:22,082 00:01:23,751 - The question that all of New York - The question that all of New York
17 00:01:23,918 00:01:26,128 was asking last night was, whatever happened to Halston? was asking last night was, whatever happened to Halston?
18 00:01:26,295 00:01:28,881 (static hissing) (static hissing)
19 00:01:32,301 00:01:34,637 - It's a story of high fashion and high finance, - It's a story of high fashion and high finance,
20 00:01:34,804 00:01:37,723 as one of America's big names in fashion. as one of America's big names in fashion.
21 00:01:37,890 00:01:42,561 (audio screeching) (audio test beeping) (audio screeching) (audio test beeping)
22 00:01:44,230 00:01:48,150 - It was business as usual, you could say. - It was business as usual, you could say.
23 00:01:48,317 00:01:50,820 They bought his name. They bought his name.
24 00:01:50,986 00:01:54,865 Sold off his life's work for pennies on the dollar. Sold off his life's work for pennies on the dollar.
25 00:01:56,534 00:01:58,452 And when that wasn't enough, And when that wasn't enough,
26 00:01:58,619 00:02:01,997 well, they forced him out of his own office. well, they forced him out of his own office.
27 00:02:02,164 00:02:06,126 (audio test beeping) (audio screeching) (audio test beeping) (audio screeching)
28 00:02:06,293 00:02:08,671 Some will say he had it coming. Some will say he had it coming.
29 00:02:09,672 00:02:12,716 (audience applauding) (audience applauding)
30 00:02:14,301 00:02:17,221 But what he didn't see coming were the tapes. But what he didn't see coming were the tapes.
31 00:02:17,388 00:02:23,894 All 215 of them, erased, as per the corporation's order. All 215 of them, erased, as per the corporation's order.
32 00:02:26,188 00:02:28,941 (audio screeching) (audio screeching)
33 00:02:32,194 00:02:32,945 - Liza Minnelli in The Act. - Liza Minnelli in The Act.
34 00:02:33,112 00:02:34,488 (audience cheering) (audience cheering)
35 00:02:34,655 00:02:37,449 - Sportswear, knits, broadcloth, menswear. - Sportswear, knits, broadcloth, menswear.
36 00:02:37,616 00:02:39,159 (audio screeching) (audio screeching)
37 00:02:39,326 00:02:41,036 This is Andy Warhol's portrait of me, which was-- This is Andy Warhol's portrait of me, which was--
38 00:02:41,203 00:02:44,456 - You see, pictures meant everything to Halston. - You see, pictures meant everything to Halston.
39 00:02:44,623 00:02:47,209 - And texture demands texture. - And texture demands texture.
40 00:02:47,376 00:02:49,128 - "Life is like a picture," he used to say. - "Life is like a picture," he used to say.
41 00:02:49,295 00:02:51,005 - Who's that lucky guy? - Who's that lucky guy?
42 00:02:52,464 00:02:56,176 - Well, he got his perfect picture. - Well, he got his perfect picture.
43 00:02:56,343 00:02:59,471 Only the price turned out to be a little high. Only the price turned out to be a little high.
44 00:02:59,638 00:03:02,808 (static hissing) (static hissing)
45 00:03:17,281 00:03:22,077 ♪ Fame and fortune ♪ ♪ Fame and fortune ♪
46 00:03:25,497 00:03:30,294 ♪ How empty they can be ♪ ♪ How empty they can be ♪
47 00:03:32,755 00:03:37,509 ♪ But when I hold you in my arms ♪ ♪ But when I hold you in my arms ♪
48 00:03:39,386 00:03:43,390 ♪ That's heaven to me ♪ ♪ That's heaven to me ♪
49 00:03:43,557 00:03:50,022 ♪ Who cares for fame and fortune ♪ ♪ Who cares for fame and fortune ♪
50 00:03:52,942 00:03:57,696 ♪ They're only passing things ♪ ♪ They're only passing things ♪
51 00:04:00,741 00:04:05,496 ♪ But the touch of your lips on mine ♪ ♪ But the touch of your lips on mine ♪
52 00:04:06,872 00:04:11,669 ♪ Makes me feel like a king ♪ ♪ Makes me feel like a king ♪
53 00:04:12,086 00:04:14,922 ♪ Your kind of love ♪ ♪ Your kind of love ♪
54 00:04:17,967 00:04:22,805 ♪ Is a treasure I hold ♪ ♪ Is a treasure I hold ♪
55 00:04:25,057 00:04:29,895 ♪ It's so much greater ♪ ♪ It's so much greater ♪
56 00:04:31,730 00:04:34,692 ♪ Than silver or gold ♪ ♪ Than silver or gold ♪
57 00:04:39,321 00:04:43,367 - It all started in September of 1983, - It all started in September of 1983,
58 00:04:43,534 00:04:47,371 when Carl Epstein joined Halston Enterprises. when Carl Epstein joined Halston Enterprises.
59 00:04:49,164 00:04:51,166 He was Halston's new corporate manager, He was Halston's new corporate manager,
60 00:04:51,333 00:04:53,043 and he would be his last. and he would be his last.
61 00:04:53,210 00:04:55,254 (jazz noir music) (jazz noir music)
62 00:04:55,421 00:04:58,757 Carl wanted to learn everything about Halston, Carl wanted to learn everything about Halston,
63 00:04:58,924 00:05:00,926 so I brought him the tapes. so I brought him the tapes.
64 00:05:02,177 00:05:03,762 Who am I? Who am I?
65 00:05:03,929 00:05:06,473 Just someone working in the archives. Just someone working in the archives.
66 00:05:06,640 00:05:10,185 Nobody important for our story, really. Nobody important for our story, really.
67 00:05:10,352 00:05:11,895 Our story is Halston. Our story is Halston.
68 00:05:14,314 00:05:18,902 Behind the images flickering on the screen, who was Halston? Behind the images flickering on the screen, who was Halston?
69 00:05:21,238 00:05:23,741 - I'd like to go back in time a little bit, - I'd like to go back in time a little bit,
70 00:05:23,907 00:05:25,451 to just how you started. to just how you started.
71 00:05:25,617 00:05:28,662 I know that you started with hats and worked your way. I know that you started with hats and worked your way.
72 00:05:28,829 00:05:30,998 - Oh, I-- - Were we gonna move this? - Oh, I-- - Were we gonna move this?
73 00:05:31,165 00:05:32,583 - That's all right. - That's all right.
74 00:05:32,750 00:05:33,417 - Please let me know these things. - Please let me know these things.
75 00:05:37,463 00:05:38,672 - Are we rolling? - Are we rolling?
76 00:05:38,839 00:05:40,049 - Am I-- - I was straightening the tie. - Am I-- - I was straightening the tie.
77 00:05:40,215 00:05:41,592 - Okay. - Okay.
78 00:05:41,759 00:05:43,135 I don't mind it being a little disheveled. I don't mind it being a little disheveled.
79 00:05:43,302 00:05:46,263 - No, no, it's just-- - Oh, okay, thanks. - No, no, it's just-- - Oh, okay, thanks.
80 00:05:46,430 00:05:49,767 Halston was the custom milliner at Bergdorf. Halston was the custom milliner at Bergdorf.
81 00:05:50,934 00:05:53,687 And we lived around the corner from each other. And we lived around the corner from each other.
82 00:05:53,854 00:05:56,356 So he and I would walk to work every day. So he and I would walk to work every day.
83 00:05:56,523 00:05:58,400 We'd be talking, gossiping, having fun. We'd be talking, gossiping, having fun.
84 00:05:58,567 00:06:00,611 He was so much fun. He was so much fun.
85 00:06:00,778 00:06:02,821 And then the minute we would arrive to the building, And then the minute we would arrive to the building,
86 00:06:02,988 00:06:05,199 and you'd have to go through the revolving door, and you'd have to go through the revolving door,
87 00:06:05,365 00:06:08,494 suddenly Halston had arrived at Bergdorf. suddenly Halston had arrived at Bergdorf.
88 00:06:09,620 00:06:10,913 And the first time, it quite shocked me. And the first time, it quite shocked me.
89 00:06:11,080 00:06:12,998 And then, of course, I understood. And then, of course, I understood.
90 00:06:13,165 00:06:15,751 He now has put on his Halston mask. He now has put on his Halston mask.
91 00:06:15,918 00:06:19,129 (elegant big band music) (elegant big band music)
92 00:06:19,296 00:06:20,672 And the voice would change. And the voice would change.
93 00:06:20,839 00:06:22,382 Good morning, ladies. Good morning, ladies.
94 00:06:24,093 00:06:25,594 He was dealing with the creme de la creme He was dealing with the creme de la creme
95 00:06:25,761 00:06:27,346 of women in the world. of women in the world.
96 00:06:29,223 00:06:30,516 - Were you the person - Were you the person
97 00:06:30,682 00:06:32,101 who put the pillbox on Jackie Kennedy? who put the pillbox on Jackie Kennedy?
98 00:06:32,267 00:06:35,395 - Yes, I was. (reporter chuckles) - Yes, I was. (reporter chuckles)
99 00:06:35,562 00:06:37,314 - That hat was genius. - That hat was genius.
100 00:06:37,481 00:06:38,690 If you look at the Inauguration, If you look at the Inauguration,
101 00:06:38,857 00:06:41,485 most of those ladies wore a mink coat. most of those ladies wore a mink coat.
102 00:06:41,652 00:06:46,115 Jackie was in a cloth coat and a cloth hat. Jackie was in a cloth coat and a cloth hat.
103 00:06:46,281 00:06:49,076 - I'll never forget the impact that hat had. - I'll never forget the impact that hat had.
104 00:06:49,243 00:06:51,411 Even out in Montana, where I was sitting at the time. Even out in Montana, where I was sitting at the time.
105 00:06:51,578 00:06:52,621 - It was a very funny story. - It was a very funny story.
106 00:06:52,788 00:06:54,790 Because it was a rather windy day, Because it was a rather windy day,
107 00:06:54,957 00:06:56,458 and she put her hand on the hat, and she put her hand on the hat,
108 00:06:56,625 00:06:58,627 and it ended up to have a dent in it. and it ended up to have a dent in it.
109 00:06:58,794 00:07:00,420 And so when, during all the ceremonies, And so when, during all the ceremonies,
110 00:07:00,587 00:07:02,172 it had a dent in the hat. it had a dent in the hat.
111 00:07:02,339 00:07:04,508 And everybody who copied it put a dent in it, And everybody who copied it put a dent in it,
112 00:07:04,675 00:07:07,386 which was so funny. (reporter laughing) which was so funny. (reporter laughing)
113 00:07:07,553 00:07:09,513 I was quite a young man, I was quite a young man,
114 00:07:09,680 00:07:11,765 but then I became very, very famous quickly on that. but then I became very, very famous quickly on that.
115 00:07:11,932 00:07:13,308 It was the first time in the history of Bergdorf It was the first time in the history of Bergdorf
116 00:07:13,475 00:07:16,687 that they promoted a designer personality. that they promoted a designer personality.
117 00:07:18,647 00:07:21,316 (audio screeching) (audio screeching)
118 00:07:21,483 00:07:24,903 And I headed a department of 150 milliners And I headed a department of 150 milliners
119 00:07:25,070 00:07:26,572 and 12 sales ladies. and 12 sales ladies.
120 00:07:27,739 00:07:31,285 - Bergdorf was a very rarefied world. - Bergdorf was a very rarefied world.
121 00:07:31,451 00:07:35,330 But he was born in Des Moines, Iowa, as I read, But he was born in Des Moines, Iowa, as I read,
122 00:07:35,497 00:07:38,625 because he never told me any of this. because he never told me any of this.
123 00:07:38,792 00:07:42,087 Halston was so busy moving forward. Halston was so busy moving forward.
124 00:07:42,254 00:07:45,007 I knew very little about Halston's personal life. I knew very little about Halston's personal life.
125 00:07:45,174 00:07:49,261 Certainly, I didn't know much about his background. Certainly, I didn't know much about his background.
126 00:07:49,428 00:07:51,930 In November of 1966, In November of 1966,
127 00:07:52,097 00:07:55,517 there was Truman Capote's Black and White Ball. there was Truman Capote's Black and White Ball.
128 00:07:55,684 00:07:57,978 - Everybody wanted to be at that ball, because it was it, - Everybody wanted to be at that ball, because it was it,
129 00:07:58,145 00:08:02,983 you know, as far as where you should go, you know? you know, as far as where you should go, you know?
130 00:08:03,150 00:08:06,904 - You would measure your social importance by (chuckling) - You would measure your social importance by (chuckling)
131 00:08:07,070 00:08:10,115 the invitation, getting one or not getting one. the invitation, getting one or not getting one.
132 00:08:10,282 00:08:12,159 - Do you know if he was invited to the ball? - Do you know if he was invited to the ball?
133 00:08:12,326 00:08:16,747 - I would have thought so, but now you, I have, I'm, - I would have thought so, but now you, I have, I'm,
134 00:08:16,914 00:08:20,167 I have my doubts, I don't know, was he? I have my doubts, I don't know, was he?
135 00:08:20,334 00:08:22,878 - Halston did not have an invite to the ball. - Halston did not have an invite to the ball.
136 00:08:23,045 00:08:25,589 (epic music) (epic music)
137 00:08:30,469 00:08:32,262 - Are you rolling, Harvey? - Are you rolling, Harvey?
138 00:08:32,429 00:08:35,098 We have filmed this black and white ball in color We have filmed this black and white ball in color
139 00:08:35,265 00:08:36,683 for your enlightenment. for your enlightenment.
140 00:08:36,850 00:08:39,770 Good heavens, here comes John Kenneth Galbraith. Good heavens, here comes John Kenneth Galbraith.
141 00:08:39,937 00:08:41,813 The Maharani of Baroda is here. The Maharani of Baroda is here.
142 00:08:41,980 00:08:46,568 And the Baroness de Rothchild, and Mrs. Loel Guinness. And the Baroness de Rothchild, and Mrs. Loel Guinness.
143 00:08:46,735 00:08:48,654 We only tell you this because we know that We only tell you this because we know that
144 00:08:48,820 00:08:51,323 you were not rich, social, or beautiful enough you were not rich, social, or beautiful enough
145 00:08:51,490 00:08:54,117 to be invited here tonight. to be invited here tonight.
146 00:08:54,284 00:08:56,119 - The irony is - The irony is
147 00:08:56,286 00:08:59,706 Halston had made more than 100 masks that night. Halston had made more than 100 masks that night.
148 00:08:59,873 00:09:03,627 Kay Graham, who owned The Washington Post. Kay Graham, who owned The Washington Post.
149 00:09:03,794 00:09:04,795 Candice Bergen. Candice Bergen.
150 00:09:06,046 00:09:08,382 Of course, D.D. Ryan. Of course, D.D. Ryan.
151 00:09:08,548 00:09:12,970 D.D. Ryan was certainly one of the chicest women going. D.D. Ryan was certainly one of the chicest women going.
152 00:09:13,136 00:09:15,514 - That's me, dancing with Truman - That's me, dancing with Truman
153 00:09:16,974 00:09:20,269 in the mask that Halston made for me. in the mask that Halston made for me.
154 00:09:20,435 00:09:24,231 - D.D. Ryan, former editor and fashion legend. - D.D. Ryan, former editor and fashion legend.
155 00:09:24,398 00:09:27,317 She had fallen on hard times since the '60s, She had fallen on hard times since the '60s,
156 00:09:27,484 00:09:29,319 so Halston gave her a job. so Halston gave her a job.
157 00:09:30,696 00:09:32,364 - I've known H from the beginning. - I've known H from the beginning.
158 00:09:32,531 00:09:34,241 From before the beginning, really. From before the beginning, really.
159 00:09:34,408 00:09:36,493 Back then, he was still a milliner. Back then, he was still a milliner.
160 00:09:36,660 00:09:39,830 Milliners didn't go through the front door. Milliners didn't go through the front door.
161 00:09:39,997 00:09:41,540 Different world then. Different world then.
162 00:09:43,208 00:09:44,334 - I must have said, are you going? - I must have said, are you going?
163 00:09:44,501 00:09:46,378 And he said, "Oh, yes." And he said, "Oh, yes."
164 00:09:47,838 00:09:49,464 That's all I can say. That's all I can say.
165 00:09:49,631 00:09:52,551 He didn't tell me everything. He didn't tell me everything.
166 00:09:52,718 00:09:56,888 He wasn't invited by Truman, but he got himself there. He wasn't invited by Truman, but he got himself there.
167 00:09:58,015 00:10:00,559 - Was this Halston? - Was this Halston?
168 00:10:00,726 00:10:01,560 Or this one? Or this one?
169 00:10:02,644 00:10:04,521 Was he even at the ball? Was he even at the ball?
170 00:10:08,817 00:10:10,819 He was on everybody's face that night. He was on everybody's face that night.
171 00:10:10,986 00:10:12,904 And yet, he was invisible. And yet, he was invisible.
172 00:10:16,116 00:10:17,534 - He called me one day and said, - He called me one day and said,
173 00:10:17,701 00:10:19,453 "There's something that I need to tell you." "There's something that I need to tell you."
174 00:10:19,619 00:10:23,248 I was in Southampton, I was invited to a very grand dinner. I was in Southampton, I was invited to a very grand dinner.
175 00:10:23,415 00:10:26,335 Our hostess is a client, and she likes me, Our hostess is a client, and she likes me,
176 00:10:26,501 00:10:27,669 and she invited me. and she invited me.
177 00:10:27,836 00:10:29,713 And we sat down. And we sat down.
178 00:10:29,880 00:10:32,591 And two of the husbands never sat down. And two of the husbands never sat down.
179 00:10:32,758 00:10:35,260 They stood behind their chairs, everybody was seated, They stood behind their chairs, everybody was seated,
180 00:10:35,427 00:10:37,012 and the hostess looked up. and the hostess looked up.
181 00:10:37,179 00:10:40,098 And they said, "If these two faggots are at table, And they said, "If these two faggots are at table,
182 00:10:40,265 00:10:42,893 "we will not be joining you for your dinner." "we will not be joining you for your dinner."
183 00:10:43,060 00:10:45,937 (gentle piano music) (gentle piano music)
184 00:10:47,814 00:10:50,901 He said, "Tom, I just need you to understand He said, "Tom, I just need you to understand
185 00:10:51,068 00:10:52,527 "that you and I could not hope "that you and I could not hope
186 00:10:52,694 00:10:56,907 "to be anything more than trained faggot poodles, "to be anything more than trained faggot poodles,
187 00:10:57,074 00:11:01,578 "to jump through the hoops of these rich people." "to jump through the hoops of these rich people."
188 00:11:06,625 00:11:08,126 - The mental image most people have - The mental image most people have
189 00:11:08,293 00:11:11,129 of a male homosexual looks pretty much like this. of a male homosexual looks pretty much like this.
190 00:11:11,296 00:11:14,383 A man with effeminate characteristics. A man with effeminate characteristics.
191 00:11:14,549 00:11:16,051 The film you are now watching The film you are now watching
192 00:11:16,218 00:11:18,345 is purposely being projected in its negative form is purposely being projected in its negative form
193 00:11:18,512 00:11:21,390 to prevent identification of the people it shows. to prevent identification of the people it shows.
194 00:11:21,556 00:11:23,225 The location is a public bathing beach The location is a public bathing beach
195 00:11:23,392 00:11:25,644 at 21st Street on Miami Beach. at 21st Street on Miami Beach.
196 00:11:25,811 00:11:28,105 The scenes were photographed with telescopic lenses The scenes were photographed with telescopic lenses
197 00:11:28,271 00:11:30,357 from a hidden vantage point. from a hidden vantage point.
198 00:11:30,524 00:11:32,150 Despite the negative image, Despite the negative image,
199 00:11:32,317 00:11:35,779 the actions themselves are easily recognized. the actions themselves are easily recognized.
200 00:11:37,114 00:11:39,616 (upbeat music) (upbeat music)
201 00:11:42,536 00:11:45,789 - I met Halston at Fire Island. - I met Halston at Fire Island.
202 00:11:45,956 00:11:50,627 He was just, you know, just a fabulous human being. He was just, you know, just a fabulous human being.
203 00:11:51,628 00:11:53,672 And we became fast friends. And we became fast friends.
204 00:11:54,923 00:11:59,428 ♪ This precious time just kept me waiting ♪ ♪ This precious time just kept me waiting ♪
205 00:12:00,971 00:12:06,726 - The freedom of our sexuality there, life before AIDS. - The freedom of our sexuality there, life before AIDS.
206 00:12:10,480 00:12:13,650 Halston and I partied a great deal together. Halston and I partied a great deal together.
207 00:12:14,776 00:12:17,070 ♪ In a brand new groove ♪ ♪ In a brand new groove ♪
208 00:12:17,237 00:12:19,322 - We would go dancing in Harlem. (chuckles) - We would go dancing in Harlem. (chuckles)
209 00:12:19,489 00:12:23,493 ♪ Don't need your help and your tight and old rules ♪ ♪ Don't need your help and your tight and old rules ♪
210 00:12:23,660 00:12:27,038 - It was always very, very, very eclectic. - It was always very, very, very eclectic.
211 00:12:27,205 00:12:28,206 - Now! - Now!
212 00:12:29,291 00:12:31,084 - But the '60s in general - But the '60s in general
213 00:12:31,251 00:12:34,504 were a political, moral, social revolution. were a political, moral, social revolution.
214 00:12:37,215 00:12:39,259 - Halston understood that there was - Halston understood that there was
215 00:12:39,426 00:12:42,429 a whole new social order coming in. a whole new social order coming in.
216 00:12:42,596 00:12:44,598 The war baby boom came of age. The war baby boom came of age.
217 00:12:44,764 00:12:47,434 Drugs, sex, and rock and roll. Drugs, sex, and rock and roll.
218 00:12:47,601 00:12:50,395 Even the French couture changed. Even the French couture changed.
219 00:12:50,562 00:12:52,397 St. Laurent, Givenchy, and Cardin St. Laurent, Givenchy, and Cardin
220 00:12:52,564 00:12:54,900 opened up ready-to-wear boutiques. opened up ready-to-wear boutiques.
221 00:12:55,066 00:12:57,277 And so, Halston saw all of that in Paris, And so, Halston saw all of that in Paris,
222 00:12:57,444 00:13:01,198 and there was tension with the Bergdorf people. and there was tension with the Bergdorf people.
223 00:13:17,255 00:13:21,176 - Halston came to see me, and he said, "I have backing. - Halston came to see me, and he said, "I have backing.
224 00:13:21,343 00:13:24,137 "Would you clean up your act?" "Would you clean up your act?"
225 00:13:24,304 00:13:26,097 I was deep into drugs by that time. I was deep into drugs by that time.
226 00:13:26,264 00:13:29,768 But I did stop intravenous drugs But I did stop intravenous drugs
227 00:13:29,935 00:13:32,229 and went to work with him. and went to work with him.
228 00:13:32,395 00:13:36,650 ♪ This the house that Jack built, y'all ♪ ♪ This the house that Jack built, y'all ♪
229 00:13:36,816 00:13:40,237 ♪ Remember this house ♪ ♪ Remember this house ♪
230 00:13:40,403 00:13:43,240 ♪ This was the land the he worked by hand ♪ ♪ This was the land the he worked by hand ♪
231 00:13:43,406 00:13:45,867 - Well, the salon was on 68th Street and Madison, - Well, the salon was on 68th Street and Madison,
232 00:13:46,034 00:13:50,247 in this little, tiny walk-up kind of derelict building. in this little, tiny walk-up kind of derelict building.
233 00:13:50,413 00:13:52,958 Compared to Bergdorf Goodman, I thought, like, you know, Compared to Bergdorf Goodman, I thought, like, you know,
234 00:13:53,124 00:13:55,794 wow, this is, like, didn't feel so fancy. wow, this is, like, didn't feel so fancy.
235 00:13:55,961 00:13:59,381 Then you went upstairs, a plain door, and you'd knock, Then you went upstairs, a plain door, and you'd knock,
236 00:13:59,548 00:14:01,007 and then you'd go in, it was just magic. and then you'd go in, it was just magic.
237 00:14:01,174 00:14:04,886 ♪ What is the use of crying ♪ ♪ What is the use of crying ♪
238 00:14:05,053 00:14:06,888 - Basically, it was just a floor-through apartment - Basically, it was just a floor-through apartment
239 00:14:07,055 00:14:09,349 that they turned into this incredible background, that they turned into this incredible background,
240 00:14:09,516 00:14:11,768 which is all just sort of magical and exotic, which is all just sort of magical and exotic,
241 00:14:11,935 00:14:13,520 and you felt like you were in an Indian palace and you felt like you were in an Indian palace
242 00:14:13,687 00:14:14,771 or you didn't know where you were. or you didn't know where you were.
243 00:14:14,938 00:14:16,398 You're on safari. You're on safari.
244 00:14:16,565 00:14:17,899 It was very wild. It was very wild.
245 00:14:18,066 00:14:19,276 And I remember the furniture, And I remember the furniture,
246 00:14:19,442 00:14:20,402 because it was very uncomfortable. because it was very uncomfortable.
247 00:14:20,569 00:14:21,903 It was horn furniture. It was horn furniture.
248 00:14:22,070 00:14:23,405 Like you sat in them, Like you sat in them,
249 00:14:23,572 00:14:24,322 and you just didn't want to sit in them, and you just didn't want to sit in them,
250 00:14:24,489 00:14:26,491 but it looked great. but it looked great.
251 00:14:26,658 00:14:28,952 ♪ In the house that Jack built ♪ ♪ The house that Jack built ♪ ♪ In the house that Jack built ♪ ♪ The house that Jack built ♪
252 00:14:29,119 00:14:30,328 ♪ I'm gonn' remember this house ♪ ♪ I'm gonn' remember this house ♪
253 00:14:30,495 00:14:31,955 ♪ The house that Jack built ♪ ♪ The house that Jack built ♪
254 00:14:32,122 00:14:34,583 - Halston made the atmosphere very democratic. - Halston made the atmosphere very democratic.
255 00:14:34,749 00:14:37,085 I mean, I'm a poor kid from Long Island City. I mean, I'm a poor kid from Long Island City.
256 00:14:37,252 00:14:41,798 But then there was Marisa Berenson and Berry, But then there was Marisa Berenson and Berry,
257 00:14:41,965 00:14:43,550 who grew up in Paris. who grew up in Paris.
258 00:14:44,968 00:14:46,761 - It was a mix of social circles. - It was a mix of social circles.
259 00:14:46,928 00:14:49,389 And that's what was so great about that era, And that's what was so great about that era,
260 00:14:49,556 00:14:52,350 is that it was a big mix of interesting, is that it was a big mix of interesting,
261 00:14:52,517 00:14:55,604 fascinating people. fascinating people.
262 00:14:55,770 00:14:56,938 Like Elsa. Like Elsa.
263 00:14:57,105 00:14:59,024 - I love to be with homosexuals. - I love to be with homosexuals.
264 00:14:59,190 00:15:02,736 I stay 15 years with homosexuals, and I loved them. I stay 15 years with homosexuals, and I loved them.
265 00:15:02,902 00:15:05,572 Because I didn't have the lover. Because I didn't have the lover.
266 00:15:05,739 00:15:07,365 (clapperboard snapping) (clapperboard snapping)
267 00:15:07,532 00:15:08,742 - Pat Cleveland was discovered on a subway car. - Pat Cleveland was discovered on a subway car.
268 00:15:08,908 00:15:11,036 - I was still in high school. - I was still in high school.
269 00:15:11,202 00:15:13,371 I went into the room, and he looked at me and he said, I went into the room, and he looked at me and he said,
270 00:15:13,538 00:15:17,459 "Okay, you'll be here tomorrow for the show." "Okay, you'll be here tomorrow for the show."
271 00:15:17,626 00:15:20,045 - He was totally laser-focused - He was totally laser-focused
272 00:15:20,211 00:15:21,755 on this collection on this collection
273 00:15:21,921 00:15:26,343 because, in his mind, I'm sure this was make or break. because, in his mind, I'm sure this was make or break.
274 00:15:26,509 00:15:28,053 - All the ladies of society were there. - All the ladies of society were there.
275 00:15:28,219 00:15:31,014 The Vogue ladies were sitting in the front row. The Vogue ladies were sitting in the front row.
276 00:15:31,181 00:15:33,850 Oh, my goodness, this is it, we're doing this show. Oh, my goodness, this is it, we're doing this show.
277 00:15:34,017 00:15:35,769 And he lined us girls up. And he lined us girls up.
278 00:15:35,935 00:15:37,270 We were all perfectly dressed. We were all perfectly dressed.
279 00:15:37,437 00:15:39,105 And he would go to the first girl, And he would go to the first girl,
280 00:15:39,272 00:15:41,316 and he'd whisper something into their ear. and he'd whisper something into their ear.
281 00:15:41,483 00:15:44,611 And he'd say, "Now, don't forget, you're the best." And he'd say, "Now, don't forget, you're the best."
282 00:15:55,997 00:15:59,334 ♪ And what costume shall the poor girl wear ♪ ♪ And what costume shall the poor girl wear ♪
283 00:15:59,501 00:16:02,045 - His clothes hit me like, this is it. - His clothes hit me like, this is it.
284 00:16:02,212 00:16:05,632 This is the fashion that I would want to wear. This is the fashion that I would want to wear.
285 00:16:05,799 00:16:09,302 ♪ To all tomorrow's parties ♪ ♪ To all tomorrow's parties ♪
286 00:16:09,469 00:16:10,804 - No zippers. - No zippers.
287 00:16:10,970 00:16:13,306 Just get in and out over your head. Just get in and out over your head.
288 00:16:13,473 00:16:14,808 ♪ A hand-me-down dress ♪ ♪ A hand-me-down dress ♪
289 00:16:14,974 00:16:16,434 - Overnight success. - Overnight success.
290 00:16:16,601 00:16:18,561 It was a clean look. It was a clean look.
291 00:16:18,728 00:16:23,817 The simplicity was really needed after the '60s. The simplicity was really needed after the '60s.
292 00:16:23,983 00:16:28,071 And it was all-American, from an all-American boy. And it was all-American, from an all-American boy.
293 00:16:31,366 00:16:33,618 (audience applauding) (audience applauding)
294 00:16:33,785 00:16:35,078 - Let's meet our first challenger. - Let's meet our first challenger.
295 00:16:35,245 00:16:37,497 So, will you enter and sign in, please? So, will you enter and sign in, please?
296 00:16:37,664 00:16:40,458 (playful music) (playful music)
297 00:16:40,625 00:16:41,960 Mr. X. Mr. X.
298 00:16:42,127 00:16:45,130 (audience applauding) (audience applauding)
299 00:16:47,757 00:16:49,467 Panel, this is Mr. X, Panel, this is Mr. X,
300 00:16:49,634 00:16:52,387 and may I tell you that Mr. X is concerned with a product. and may I tell you that Mr. X is concerned with a product.
301 00:16:52,554 00:16:55,014 And now let's show our audience just who our guest is And now let's show our audience just who our guest is
302 00:16:55,181 00:16:56,975 and what his product is. and what his product is.
303 00:16:58,226 00:17:01,271 (audience applauding) (audience applauding)
304 00:17:03,064 00:17:06,276 - Can I rule out that your name is Valentino? - Can I rule out that your name is Valentino?
305 00:17:06,443 00:17:08,194 - You can rule that out. - You can rule that out.
306 00:17:08,361 00:17:09,988 - All right, no, no, I'm sure if I hear the name, I'll know. - All right, no, no, I'm sure if I hear the name, I'll know.
307 00:17:10,155 00:17:11,698 It's because I don't recognize you on site. It's because I don't recognize you on site.
308 00:17:11,865 00:17:16,327 But would the clothing be the new sensation hot pants? But would the clothing be the new sensation hot pants?
309 00:17:16,494 00:17:17,412 - That's it! - Yes. - That's it! - Yes.
310 00:17:17,579 00:17:18,371 - Is that right? - Is that right?
311 00:17:18,538 00:17:19,247 (audience applauding) (audience applauding)
312 00:17:19,414 00:17:22,792 (mysterious music) (mysterious music)
313 00:17:27,797 00:17:30,550 - Felt like the beginning because he was so enthusiastic, - Felt like the beginning because he was so enthusiastic,
314 00:17:30,717 00:17:34,429 and everybody was so charmed with him, and so young, and everybody was so charmed with him, and so young,
315 00:17:34,596 00:17:36,014 and it was enticing. and it was enticing.
316 00:17:36,181 00:17:39,058 You just wanted to be in the room with him. You just wanted to be in the room with him.
317 00:17:40,143 00:17:41,436 - I was 18. - I was 18.
318 00:17:41,603 00:17:43,021 I was so innocent. I was so innocent.
319 00:17:43,188 00:17:44,314 I knew nothing. I knew nothing.
320 00:17:46,232 00:17:48,318 I was from the Midwest. I was from the Midwest.
321 00:17:48,485 00:17:50,612 Everyone was unusual for me. Everyone was unusual for me.
322 00:17:50,779 00:17:51,863 Like Pat Ast. Like Pat Ast.
323 00:17:53,156 00:17:56,659 She was an Andy Warhol superstar with frizzy hair. She was an Andy Warhol superstar with frizzy hair.
324 00:17:56,826 00:17:59,662 ♪ I'm just wild about Andy ♪ ♪ I'm just wild about Andy ♪
325 00:17:59,829 00:18:02,874 ♪ And Andy's wild about me ♪ ♪ And Andy's wild about me ♪
326 00:18:03,041 00:18:07,712 ♪ The heavenly blisses of his kisses ♪ ♪ The heavenly blisses of his kisses ♪
327 00:18:07,879 00:18:11,591 ♪ They fill me with ecstasy ♪ ♪ They fill me with ecstasy ♪
328 00:18:11,758 00:18:13,301 - This was definitely the in crowd. - This was definitely the in crowd.
329 00:18:13,468 00:18:15,136 Andy kept saying, "Oh, this is, you know, Andy kept saying, "Oh, this is, you know,
330 00:18:15,303 00:18:16,304 "this is so in, Bob. "this is so in, Bob.
331 00:18:16,471 00:18:17,680 "This is so in." "This is so in."
332 00:18:19,641 00:18:22,018 He knew Halston from the 1950s, He knew Halston from the 1950s,
333 00:18:22,185 00:18:26,481 when Andy was doing ads and windows for Bergdorf's. when Andy was doing ads and windows for Bergdorf's.
334 00:18:26,648 00:18:28,775 He was comfortable in the world of fashion. He was comfortable in the world of fashion.
335 00:18:28,942 00:18:30,819 ♪ Wild about me ♪ ♪ Wild about me ♪
336 00:18:30,985 00:18:33,446 (vibrant music) (vibrant music)
337 00:18:34,656 00:18:35,698 (phone line beeps) (phone line beeps)
338 00:18:43,081 00:18:44,457 (interviewer laughing) (interviewer laughing)
339 00:18:44,624 00:18:47,043 - Joe was not only the illustrator, - Joe was not only the illustrator,
340 00:18:47,210 00:18:48,837 but a close friend. but a close friend.
341 00:18:49,003 00:18:52,799 You know, Halston was very cool, and Joe was very hot. You know, Halston was very cool, and Joe was very hot.
342 00:18:56,302 00:18:57,762 - He was drawn to people - He was drawn to people
343 00:18:57,929 00:19:00,557 who just displayed their emotions. who just displayed their emotions.
344 00:19:00,723 00:19:04,352 And also, have this tremendous aesthetic side. And also, have this tremendous aesthetic side.
345 00:19:08,398 00:19:11,609 - And he believed so much on me, Halston. - And he believed so much on me, Halston.
346 00:19:11,776 00:19:15,071 - Elsa would be there drawing things all the time. - Elsa would be there drawing things all the time.
347 00:19:15,238 00:19:18,491 And Halston said, "You need to be a jewelry designer." And Halston said, "You need to be a jewelry designer."
348 00:19:18,658 00:19:21,494 And somehow she made this jewelry for us, which is, And somehow she made this jewelry for us, which is,
349 00:19:21,661 00:19:24,747 I had two of these, one was stolen. I had two of these, one was stolen.
350 00:19:24,914 00:19:25,832 - Why I did do jewelry? - Why I did do jewelry?
351 00:19:25,999 00:19:28,459 I just was trapped into it. I just was trapped into it.
352 00:19:28,626 00:19:32,589 I did something for fun, it became a success. I did something for fun, it became a success.
353 00:19:32,755 00:19:34,424 - Really? - Really?
354 00:19:35,592 00:19:36,551 - We were hipsters. - We were hipsters.
355 00:19:36,718 00:19:38,094 We thought we were. We thought we were.
356 00:19:38,261 00:19:41,264 We probably weren't at all, but, you know. We probably weren't at all, but, you know.
357 00:19:41,431 00:19:44,017 My husband, Bill, was starting to work at Halston's. My husband, Bill, was starting to work at Halston's.
358 00:19:44,183 00:19:46,561 They got along really well together. They got along really well together.
359 00:19:46,728 00:19:49,022 In the beginning, he couldn't wait to go to work. In the beginning, he couldn't wait to go to work.
360 00:19:49,188 00:19:51,983 And that's a great feeling, isn't it? And that's a great feeling, isn't it?
361 00:19:53,151 00:19:56,112 - Bill Dugan was the first disciple. - Bill Dugan was the first disciple.
362 00:19:56,279 00:20:00,408 And 12 years later, he was still spreading the gospel. And 12 years later, he was still spreading the gospel.
363 00:20:00,575 00:20:03,536 - If you want to understand Halston's clothes, - If you want to understand Halston's clothes,
364 00:20:03,703 00:20:06,164 you have to understand the lineage first. you have to understand the lineage first.
365 00:20:06,331 00:20:08,917 You see, when he did his first line, You see, when he did his first line,
366 00:20:09,083 00:20:10,418 I think he was the first to be surprised I think he was the first to be surprised
367 00:20:10,585 00:20:13,379 at how good he really was. at how good he really was.
368 00:20:13,546 00:20:17,967 The other who was surprised, of course, was his mentor. The other who was surprised, of course, was his mentor.
369 00:20:22,889 00:20:25,808 - Oh, I think perhaps Charles James, - Oh, I think perhaps Charles James,
370 00:20:25,975 00:20:27,602 who was a friend of mine. who was a friend of mine.
371 00:20:27,769 00:20:29,896 (dramatic music) (dramatic music)
372 00:20:30,063 00:20:31,439 (audience applauding) (audience applauding)
373 00:20:31,606 00:20:33,274 - Charles James is such an amazing figure. - Charles James is such an amazing figure.
374 00:20:33,441 00:20:34,692 Difficult, controversial. Difficult, controversial.
375 00:20:34,859 00:20:35,818 But he's one of these people that, But he's one of these people that,
376 00:20:35,985 00:20:37,487 he was so amazingly talented. he was so amazingly talented.
377 00:20:37,654 00:20:40,782 ♪ I know what it is to be young ♪ ♪ I know what it is to be young ♪
378 00:20:40,949 00:20:42,325 - Even the Europeans understood - Even the Europeans understood
379 00:20:42,492 00:20:45,078 that Charles James was a singular genius. that Charles James was a singular genius.
380 00:20:45,244 00:20:46,913 ♪ You don't know what it is ♪ ♪ You don't know what it is ♪
381 00:20:47,080 00:20:48,831 ♪ To be old ♪ ♪ To be old ♪
382 00:20:48,998 00:20:51,334 - Halston had this incredible fascination, - Halston had this incredible fascination,
383 00:20:51,501 00:20:54,462 and I would say envy of Charles James. and I would say envy of Charles James.
384 00:20:54,629 00:20:58,383 ♪ You'll be saying the same thing ♪ ♪ You'll be saying the same thing ♪
385 00:20:58,549 00:21:00,134 - He mimicked Charles. - He mimicked Charles.
386 00:21:00,301 00:21:01,594 Charles would say things like, Charles would say things like,
387 00:21:01,761 00:21:04,263 "You're only as good as who you dress." "You're only as good as who you dress."
388 00:21:04,430 00:21:06,099 And suddenly Halston was saying, And suddenly Halston was saying,
389 00:21:06,265 00:21:09,185 "You're only as good as who you dress." "You're only as good as who you dress."
390 00:21:10,311 00:21:12,271 ♪ I've asked so many questions ♪ ♪ I've asked so many questions ♪
391 00:21:12,438 00:21:14,190 - In the late '60s, - In the late '60s,
392 00:21:14,357 00:21:17,527 Charles James was really out of his luck, and he owed money. Charles James was really out of his luck, and he owed money.
393 00:21:17,694 00:21:19,612 And he really wasn't designing. And he really wasn't designing.
394 00:21:19,779 00:21:21,698 ♪ Find all the answers ♪ ♪ Find all the answers ♪
395 00:21:21,864 00:21:23,074 - It's true that you're considering going on welfare, - It's true that you're considering going on welfare,
396 00:21:23,241 00:21:24,575 isn't it? - Yes, it is. isn't it? - Yes, it is.
397 00:21:24,742 00:21:26,452 In order to get my doctor's bills paid. In order to get my doctor's bills paid.
398 00:21:26,619 00:21:27,578 It's just the most shocking-- It's just the most shocking--
399 00:21:27,745 00:21:29,163 - Halston felt for him. - Halston felt for him.
400 00:21:29,330 00:21:31,916 ♪ There'll be days to remember ♪ ♪ There'll be days to remember ♪
401 00:21:32,083 00:21:33,626 - So he hired Charles James - So he hired Charles James
402 00:21:33,793 00:21:36,254 to help him with a collection. to help him with a collection.
403 00:21:55,440 00:21:57,734 (gentle piano music) (gentle piano music)
404 00:21:57,900 00:22:01,154 - James's working methodology was overworking - James's working methodology was overworking
405 00:22:01,320 00:22:03,614 and overworking the same idea, and overworking the same idea,
406 00:22:03,781 00:22:06,826 and creating things that were so incredibly complicated and creating things that were so incredibly complicated
407 00:22:06,993 00:22:09,203 that it simply wasn't viable. that it simply wasn't viable.
408 00:22:13,332 00:22:15,001 - Charles was furious throughout the whole thing - Charles was furious throughout the whole thing
409 00:22:15,168 00:22:16,669 'cause it wasn't right. 'cause it wasn't right.
410 00:22:16,836 00:22:20,256 Charles wanted control, Halston wanted control. Charles wanted control, Halston wanted control.
411 00:22:20,423 00:22:24,343 It was almost like father and rebellious son. It was almost like father and rebellious son.
412 00:22:24,510 00:22:25,470 It was a disaster, by the way. It was a disaster, by the way.
413 00:22:25,636 00:22:27,180 The collection was a disaster. The collection was a disaster.
414 00:22:27,346 00:22:28,681 - The few pieces that I've seen - The few pieces that I've seen
415 00:22:28,848 00:22:30,933 look a little tortured, frankly. look a little tortured, frankly.
416 00:22:31,100 00:22:32,727 Very typical of James's work, Very typical of James's work,
417 00:22:32,894 00:22:35,104 where he would take fabric and twist it and torque it. where he would take fabric and twist it and torque it.
418 00:22:35,271 00:22:37,690 And in the end result, you had things that looked amazing, And in the end result, you had things that looked amazing,
419 00:22:37,857 00:22:40,318 in a way, but somehow unwearable. in a way, but somehow unwearable.
420 00:22:42,445 00:22:44,781 - Halston said, "Well, I just want you to know that, - Halston said, "Well, I just want you to know that,
421 00:22:44,947 00:22:47,158 "you know, I'm locking Charles out of the workroom." "you know, I'm locking Charles out of the workroom."
422 00:22:52,371 00:22:55,249 - Halston is a middle-of-the-road man, - Halston is a middle-of-the-road man,
423 00:22:55,416 00:23:00,630 who would be better as a buyer in a store, or a stylist. who would be better as a buyer in a store, or a stylist.
424 00:23:02,006 00:23:07,470 He knows how to select good things to copy. He knows how to select good things to copy.
425 00:23:07,637 00:23:11,808 But his passion has been to put his name on it. But his passion has been to put his name on it.
426 00:23:11,974 00:23:18,147 For which action, the word plagiarism is correct. For which action, the word plagiarism is correct.
427 00:23:21,776 00:23:23,444 - Halston didn't copy. - Halston didn't copy.
428 00:23:23,611 00:23:26,030 Eventually, I went to work for Halston, Eventually, I went to work for Halston,
429 00:23:26,197 00:23:32,161 and I saw that Halston took concepts of Charles James and I saw that Halston took concepts of Charles James
430 00:23:32,328 00:23:33,663 and relaxed them. and relaxed them.
431 00:23:36,791 00:23:39,210 His clothes were for a modern time. His clothes were for a modern time.
432 00:23:39,377 00:23:41,504 For a time where women's lifestyle For a time where women's lifestyle
433 00:23:41,671 00:23:43,256 had changed completely. had changed completely.
434 00:23:43,422 00:23:44,382 I mean, he understood that. I mean, he understood that.
435 00:23:44,549 00:23:47,176 (ethereal music) (ethereal music)
436 00:23:50,805 00:23:52,348 - Elegance and ease. - Elegance and ease.
437 00:23:54,308 00:23:58,896 A sense of owning power, without being masculine. A sense of owning power, without being masculine.
438 00:24:00,148 00:24:02,984 And honoring the body that you have. And honoring the body that you have.
439 00:24:04,819 00:24:08,197 Basically, you were usually naked underneath. Basically, you were usually naked underneath.
440 00:24:08,364 00:24:11,075 - You were free inside your clothes. - You were free inside your clothes.
441 00:24:14,745 00:24:17,206 - He took away the cage. - He took away the cage.
442 00:24:17,373 00:24:18,749 And he made things And he made things
443 00:24:18,916 00:24:21,836 as though you didn't really need the structure as though you didn't really need the structure
444 00:24:22,003 00:24:24,589 as much as you needed the woman. as much as you needed the woman.
445 00:24:24,755 00:24:29,177 He really based most of his collection on most of us girls. He really based most of his collection on most of us girls.
446 00:24:29,343 00:24:30,845 - I think maybe we just had a pin there to hold it up, - I think maybe we just had a pin there to hold it up,
447 00:24:31,012 00:24:32,013 it might be good, huh? it might be good, huh?
448 00:24:32,180 00:24:33,514 - Mm-hmm. - Mm-hmm.
449 00:24:33,681 00:24:36,142 - Let's see you turn in it, Chrissy, huh? - Let's see you turn in it, Chrissy, huh?
450 00:24:36,309 00:24:40,354 - Fabric to Halston was like clay to a sculptor. - Fabric to Halston was like clay to a sculptor.
451 00:24:40,521 00:24:43,024 He knew how to use it. He knew how to use it.
452 00:24:43,191 00:24:47,528 And everything was cut on the bias, so it spiraled. And everything was cut on the bias, so it spiraled.
453 00:24:47,695 00:24:49,197 - Basically, bias is cutting fabric - Basically, bias is cutting fabric
454 00:24:49,363 00:24:52,241 on an oblique, or 45-degree angle. on an oblique, or 45-degree angle.
455 00:24:52,408 00:24:54,577 Fabric is usually cut on the straight grain. Fabric is usually cut on the straight grain.
456 00:24:54,744 00:24:55,828 If you've ever cut something on the bias, If you've ever cut something on the bias,
457 00:24:55,995 00:24:57,788 it flows over the body. it flows over the body.
458 00:24:57,955 00:25:00,458 It opens up, if you will. It opens up, if you will.
459 00:25:00,625 00:25:02,376 - It's very hard to do it. - It's very hard to do it.
460 00:25:02,543 00:25:03,794 Nothing is straight. Nothing is straight.
461 00:25:03,961 00:25:06,839 It's very hard to sew, everything moves. It's very hard to sew, everything moves.
462 00:25:07,006 00:25:09,842 Especially on chiffon, it's very hard to control. Especially on chiffon, it's very hard to control.
463 00:25:10,009 00:25:12,678 But he made it so easy. But he made it so easy.
464 00:25:12,845 00:25:15,348 - He just would throw a piece of fabric on the floor, - He just would throw a piece of fabric on the floor,
465 00:25:15,514 00:25:17,266 and cut through it. and cut through it.
466 00:25:17,433 00:25:21,520 Pick it up, throw it on you, and then, pfft, it was a dress. Pick it up, throw it on you, and then, pfft, it was a dress.
467 00:25:22,897 00:25:24,106 - That's genius. - That's genius.
468 00:25:25,441 00:25:26,400 It's a dress. It's a dress.
469 00:25:26,567 00:25:28,736 Just from the way he cut it. Just from the way he cut it.
470 00:25:28,903 00:25:30,571 I don't know anybody who could do that. I don't know anybody who could do that.
471 00:25:30,738 00:25:31,948 He's the only one. He's the only one.
472 00:25:55,596 00:25:58,724 - That's probably the largest Halston collection - That's probably the largest Halston collection
473 00:25:58,891 00:26:02,019 of all the museums in the States. of all the museums in the States.
474 00:26:02,186 00:26:03,437 When I started working here, When I started working here,
475 00:26:03,604 00:26:05,564 I started really looking at the clothes. I started really looking at the clothes.
476 00:26:05,731 00:26:09,860 And I'm most fascinated with the single-seam patterns. And I'm most fascinated with the single-seam patterns.
477 00:26:11,904 00:26:13,656 Similar to the one that's up there, Similar to the one that's up there,
478 00:26:13,823 00:26:15,157 which looks like a painting, which looks like a painting,
479 00:26:15,324 00:26:17,994 is actually the pattern for that dress. is actually the pattern for that dress.
480 00:26:19,078 00:26:20,329 It's really hard to see it, flat. It's really hard to see it, flat.
481 00:26:20,496 00:26:24,125 But, and just spirals. But, and just spirals.
482 00:26:24,875 00:26:26,210 And this is another one And this is another one
483 00:26:26,377 00:26:29,880 that is cut from one piece of fabric, folded. that is cut from one piece of fabric, folded.
484 00:26:30,047 00:26:34,510 You cut out the neck, and the seam goes from here to here, You cut out the neck, and the seam goes from here to here,
485 00:26:34,677 00:26:36,846 down the side, and then across. down the side, and then across.
486 00:26:37,013 00:26:38,973 It's one piece of fabric. It's one piece of fabric.
487 00:26:39,140 00:26:41,017 The pattern looks like a Cuisinart blade. The pattern looks like a Cuisinart blade.
488 00:26:41,183 00:26:44,520 (ethereal music) (ethereal music)
489 00:26:44,687 00:26:47,189 Very much like the art, at the time, like abstract art. Very much like the art, at the time, like abstract art.
490 00:26:47,356 00:26:51,736 It was reducing it down to its least common denominators. It was reducing it down to its least common denominators.
491 00:26:55,656 00:26:57,366 - I think if fashion history would write it, - I think if fashion history would write it,
492 00:26:57,533 00:26:59,660 I'd like to have a credit point of saying I'd like to have a credit point of saying
493 00:26:59,827 00:27:01,954 maybe we cleaned it up a bit, where, you know, maybe we cleaned it up a bit, where, you know,
494 00:27:02,121 00:27:04,165 I have a theory that less becomes more, so much. I have a theory that less becomes more, so much.
495 00:27:04,332 00:27:05,041 - Uh-huh. - Uh-huh.
496 00:27:06,792 00:27:09,086 - I felt more intimidated by Halston - I felt more intimidated by Halston
497 00:27:09,253 00:27:12,423 than by whatever man I met in my life. than by whatever man I met in my life.
498 00:27:12,590 00:27:14,008 - Because? - Because?
499 00:27:14,175 00:27:16,552 - Because everything he was doing was great. - Because everything he was doing was great.
500 00:27:16,719 00:27:18,387 Every time, every time. Every time, every time.
501 00:27:19,764 00:27:21,057 He astonished me. He astonished me.
502 00:27:22,183 00:27:23,768 - How do you feel when you, say, - How do you feel when you, say,
503 00:27:23,934 00:27:25,519 walk into a restaurant in New York, and a lady comes in walk into a restaurant in New York, and a lady comes in
504 00:27:25,686 00:27:28,022 looking smashing in a Halston outfit? looking smashing in a Halston outfit?
505 00:27:28,189 00:27:30,691 - I'm very proud. - I'm very proud.
506 00:27:30,858 00:27:34,570 I'm just very proud if somebody looks good in it, you know? I'm just very proud if somebody looks good in it, you know?
507 00:27:34,737 00:27:35,654 - What if she comes in - What if she comes in
508 00:27:35,821 00:27:38,032 and doesn't look good in it? and doesn't look good in it?
509 00:27:38,199 00:27:41,410 - Then I'm not so proud. (laughing) - Then I'm not so proud. (laughing)
510 00:27:41,577 00:27:42,578 (vibrant music) (vibrant music)
511 00:27:42,745 00:27:44,163 - The Halston market - The Halston market
512 00:27:44,330 00:27:45,915 is in the better stores across the country. is in the better stores across the country.
513 00:27:46,082 00:27:47,458 In New York, it's Bergdorf Goodman, In New York, it's Bergdorf Goodman,
514 00:27:47,625 00:27:49,293 where he has a boutique where he has a boutique
515 00:27:49,460 00:27:52,046 in the same spot he started selling hats to rich ladies in the same spot he started selling hats to rich ladies
516 00:27:52,213 00:27:53,839 15 years ago. 15 years ago.
517 00:27:54,006 00:27:55,925 This is Halston off the rack. This is Halston off the rack.
518 00:27:56,092 00:27:57,510 The favorite item? The favorite item?
519 00:27:57,676 00:28:00,429 An Ultrasuede shirt dress with a $200 price tag An Ultrasuede shirt dress with a $200 price tag
520 00:28:00,596 00:28:03,808 that has broken all previous sales records. that has broken all previous sales records.
521 00:28:05,226 00:28:06,435 - You're late. - You're late.
522 00:28:06,602 00:28:07,895 My god, are you ever on time, come on. My god, are you ever on time, come on.
523 00:28:08,062 00:28:09,814 - But for real extravagance, - But for real extravagance,
524 00:28:09,980 00:28:12,233 the ladies come to Halston's own showroom on Madison Avenue, the ladies come to Halston's own showroom on Madison Avenue,
525 00:28:12,400 00:28:14,735 where super saleswoman Pat Ast where super saleswoman Pat Ast
526 00:28:14,902 00:28:17,655 will give them that special treatment. will give them that special treatment.
527 00:28:17,822 00:28:19,240 - What about Pat Ast? - What about Pat Ast?
528 00:28:19,407 00:28:21,367 Some people have suggested that by using her, Some people have suggested that by using her,
529 00:28:21,534 00:28:24,370 you're putting down fashion a bit. you're putting down fashion a bit.
530 00:28:24,537 00:28:26,997 - Well, if you think that Patty is a put-down, - Well, if you think that Patty is a put-down,
531 00:28:27,164 00:28:28,124 but I don't think so. but I don't think so.
532 00:28:28,290 00:28:30,209 I take her very seriously. I take her very seriously.
533 00:28:30,376 00:28:33,087 And I like to make her glamorous. And I like to make her glamorous.
534 00:28:33,254 00:28:36,132 - Halston designs things that are made especially for me, - Halston designs things that are made especially for me,
535 00:28:36,298 00:28:39,135 which is the most incredible thing, 'cause looking at me, which is the most incredible thing, 'cause looking at me,
536 00:28:39,301 00:28:42,304 you know I'm not the normal size woman. you know I'm not the normal size woman.
537 00:28:43,597 00:28:45,516 - I think he appreciated the woman's body. - I think he appreciated the woman's body.
538 00:28:45,683 00:28:48,978 I think he appreciated all the different types of women. I think he appreciated all the different types of women.
539 00:28:49,145 00:28:52,064 He loved all of the diversity of his models. He loved all of the diversity of his models.
540 00:28:52,231 00:28:53,899 - If you take this down, Iman. - Yeah. - If you take this down, Iman. - Yeah.
541 00:28:54,066 00:28:56,610 - And you turn around, that way so you see a decollete. - And you turn around, that way so you see a decollete.
542 00:28:56,777 00:28:58,904 This is Iman's first show. This is Iman's first show.
543 00:28:59,071 00:29:00,656 She's never been in a fashion show before. She's never been in a fashion show before.
544 00:29:00,823 00:29:03,617 How do you feel about your first fashion show, Iman? How do you feel about your first fashion show, Iman?
545 00:29:03,784 00:29:05,161 - I'm very nervous. - I'm very nervous.
546 00:29:10,207 00:29:12,668 - He always loved different personalities. - He always loved different personalities.
547 00:29:12,835 00:29:14,336 And he encouraged that. And he encouraged that.
548 00:29:14,503 00:29:16,046 - Do you think that models are some of the sexy, - Do you think that models are some of the sexy,
549 00:29:16,213 00:29:17,631 most beautiful girls in the world? most beautiful girls in the world?
550 00:29:17,798 00:29:19,300 - Sometimes. - Sometimes.
551 00:29:19,467 00:29:20,426 - Do you think they should all be in the movies? - Do you think they should all be in the movies?
552 00:29:20,593 00:29:22,261 - No. - No.
553 00:29:22,428 00:29:25,556 - He also loved the idea of being controversial. - He also loved the idea of being controversial.
554 00:29:25,723 00:29:27,391 I remember the Coty Award Show, I remember the Coty Award Show,
555 00:29:27,558 00:29:31,770 he decided it was gonna be a happening, so anything goes. he decided it was gonna be a happening, so anything goes.
556 00:29:31,937 00:29:32,897 - Tell me something. - Tell me something.
557 00:29:33,063 00:29:34,565 - I'm gonna tell you. - I'm gonna tell you.
558 00:29:34,732 00:29:36,358 I hope that show goes better than the rehearsal. I hope that show goes better than the rehearsal.
559 00:29:36,525 00:29:40,446 - All the fashion world is waiting for the Coty Awards. - All the fashion world is waiting for the Coty Awards.
560 00:29:40,613 00:29:41,906 - The audience in the Coty Awards - The audience in the Coty Awards
561 00:29:42,072 00:29:44,158 tend to be a little more formal. tend to be a little more formal.
562 00:29:44,325 00:29:47,203 But Halston wanted to be very irreverent. But Halston wanted to be very irreverent.
563 00:29:47,369 00:29:50,247 - Andy and Halston came up with this idea - Andy and Halston came up with this idea
564 00:29:50,414 00:29:54,585 that it was like a talent show, Halston's Talent Hour. that it was like a talent show, Halston's Talent Hour.
565 00:29:56,879 00:30:01,550 ("When the Saints Go Marching In") ("When the Saints Go Marching In")
566 00:30:01,717 00:30:03,469 I played the clarinet. I played the clarinet.
567 00:30:03,636 00:30:06,555 He said, "What can you do?" (laughing) He said, "What can you do?" (laughing)
568 00:30:06,722 00:30:08,390 "What else can you do?" "What else can you do?"
569 00:30:11,852 00:30:13,896 ♪ Oh yeah ♪ ♪ Oh yeah ♪
570 00:30:15,397 00:30:18,067 - The audience, they didn't know what to make of it. - The audience, they didn't know what to make of it.
571 00:30:18,234 00:30:20,945 (chuckles) (chuckles)
572 00:30:21,111 00:30:23,155 Halston wanted it to be, just throw everything in, Halston wanted it to be, just throw everything in,
573 00:30:23,322 00:30:24,907 including the kitchen sink. including the kitchen sink.
574 00:30:25,074 00:30:29,245 And by the way, have Pat come out of the birthday cake. And by the way, have Pat come out of the birthday cake.
575 00:30:30,746 00:30:33,958 ♪ Ah ah ah ah ah ♪ ♪ Ah ah ah ah ah ♪
576 00:30:34,124 00:30:38,295 ♪ Happy birthday to me ♪ ♪ Happy birthday to me ♪
577 00:30:38,462 00:30:42,758 ♪ Happy birthday to me ♪ ♪ Happy birthday to me ♪
578 00:30:42,925 00:30:46,762 ♪ Happy birthday, happy birthday ♪ ♪ Happy birthday, happy birthday ♪
579 00:30:47,888 00:30:51,392 (gentle instrumental music) (gentle instrumental music)
580 00:30:55,104 00:30:58,274 - He took a chance, a leap of faith to be something - He took a chance, a leap of faith to be something
581 00:30:58,440 00:31:02,152 that maybe a lot of people think they can't do. that maybe a lot of people think they can't do.
582 00:31:06,448 00:31:09,493 He would say, "You can have anything you want. He would say, "You can have anything you want.
583 00:31:09,660 00:31:12,079 "You're a good person." "You're a good person."
584 00:31:12,246 00:31:14,582 You know, that feeling that somebody believes in you. You know, that feeling that somebody believes in you.
585 00:31:14,748 00:31:16,208 You know? You know?
586 00:31:16,375 00:31:20,004 And because of that, you know, he made me stronger. And because of that, you know, he made me stronger.
587 00:31:22,673 00:31:25,217 (chuckling) (chuckling)
588 00:31:25,384 00:31:30,472 Waterproof. (chuckling) Waterproof. (chuckling)
589 00:31:35,644 00:31:39,106 I remember one time we went out West to do a show, I remember one time we went out West to do a show,
590 00:31:39,273 00:31:41,150 and Halston said, "I want you to come with me. and Halston said, "I want you to come with me.
591 00:31:41,317 00:31:43,611 I wanna see something." I wanna see something."
592 00:31:43,777 00:31:45,529 He rented a car. He rented a car.
593 00:31:45,696 00:31:49,199 And you never saw him drive 'cause we'd always be in limos. And you never saw him drive 'cause we'd always be in limos.
594 00:31:49,366 00:31:53,245 And we went way out in the middle of nowhere, out there. And we went way out in the middle of nowhere, out there.
595 00:31:53,412 00:31:54,955 Not a lot to look at. (chuckles) Not a lot to look at. (chuckles)
596 00:31:55,122 00:31:56,165 Sky and earth. Sky and earth.
597 00:32:00,753 00:32:02,254 And he said, "That's where I grew up. And he said, "That's where I grew up.
598 00:32:02,421 00:32:04,256 "This is where I grew up." "This is where I grew up."
599 00:32:04,423 00:32:05,883 And we'd be in the middle of nowhere. And we'd be in the middle of nowhere.
600 00:32:06,050 00:32:09,345 Just, like, farms, with the big rolls of hay. Just, like, farms, with the big rolls of hay.
601 00:32:09,511 00:32:14,350 He said, "I just wanted to come by here." He said, "I just wanted to come by here."
602 00:32:19,480 00:32:22,858 - I only lived in Iowa for about five minutes, you know. - I only lived in Iowa for about five minutes, you know.
603 00:32:23,025 00:32:25,069 I mean, I moved out of Iowa as a young man. I mean, I moved out of Iowa as a young man.
604 00:32:25,235 00:32:26,737 It was during the Second World War, It was during the Second World War,
605 00:32:26,904 00:32:28,155 and my father was in a business and my father was in a business
606 00:32:28,322 00:32:30,282 that took us from one place to another, that took us from one place to another,
607 00:32:30,449 00:32:31,992 so I lived in the Lake of the Ozarks, so I lived in the Lake of the Ozarks,
608 00:32:32,159 00:32:34,995 and I lived in Kentucky, and I lived in Missouri, and I lived in Kentucky, and I lived in Missouri,
609 00:32:35,162 00:32:37,623 and then we finally settled in Indiana. and then we finally settled in Indiana.
610 00:32:37,790 00:32:39,083 So I was all over, you know. So I was all over, you know.
611 00:32:39,249 00:32:42,044 It was sort of an unsettled time. It was sort of an unsettled time.
612 00:32:42,211 00:32:44,380 - When you do go back home-- - When you do go back home--
613 00:32:44,546 00:32:46,882 - There is no home in Iowa, you see? - There is no home in Iowa, you see?
614 00:32:47,049 00:32:48,967 What else do you think we should go over? What else do you think we should go over?
615 00:32:49,134 00:32:50,761 - Just a little bit of the history. - Just a little bit of the history.
616 00:32:50,928 00:32:52,638 I think that would be good for us to have and so forth. I think that would be good for us to have and so forth.
617 00:32:52,805 00:32:54,640 - Oh, let's not go into the whole history crap, you know. - Oh, let's not go into the whole history crap, you know.
618 00:32:54,807 00:32:55,974 What about right now? What about right now?
619 00:32:56,141 00:32:57,559 - But this is history. - But this is history.
620 00:32:57,726 00:33:00,437 - The past just doesn't interest me so much. - The past just doesn't interest me so much.
621 00:33:00,604 00:33:04,274 I think you have pretty much, I think you have enough. I think you have pretty much, I think you have enough.
622 00:33:04,441 00:33:05,818 - And we need a transcript - And we need a transcript
623 00:33:05,984 00:33:07,444 as soon as possible. as soon as possible.
624 00:33:08,904 00:33:11,782 (jazz noir music) (jazz noir music)
625 00:33:42,938 00:33:44,565 - His mother would come and visit, - His mother would come and visit,
626 00:33:44,732 00:33:47,401 and she always called him Hahl-ston. and she always called him Hahl-ston.
627 00:33:48,861 00:33:52,322 And he had changed the pronunciation to Hall-ston, And he had changed the pronunciation to Hall-ston,
628 00:33:52,489 00:33:54,366 but she would correct you. but she would correct you.
629 00:33:54,533 00:33:58,454 "His name is Hahl-ston, it's a family name." "His name is Hahl-ston, it's a family name."
630 00:33:58,620 00:34:02,249 She also used to say Hahl-ston had disappeared, She also used to say Hahl-ston had disappeared,
631 00:34:03,459 00:34:07,296 but Hall-ston was a force to be reckoned with. but Hall-ston was a force to be reckoned with.
632 00:34:12,384 00:34:16,346 And this is the manager of the boutique. And this is the manager of the boutique.
633 00:34:16,513 00:34:19,892 Ed was just as handsome as Halston. Ed was just as handsome as Halston.
634 00:34:20,058 00:34:25,063 And had just as much charisma. And had just as much charisma.
635 00:34:30,110 00:34:32,029 - Ed Austin. - Ed Austin.
636 00:34:32,196 00:34:33,405 (phone line beeps) (phone line beeps)
637 00:34:33,572 00:34:35,282 - Never mentioned his dad, - Never mentioned his dad,
638 00:34:35,449 00:34:38,702 but he called his mom every week, every Monday afternoon. but he called his mom every week, every Monday afternoon.
639 00:34:38,869 00:34:40,579 Hallie Mae. Hallie Mae.
640 00:34:40,746 00:34:43,457 I'm being careful about what I'm saying. I'm being careful about what I'm saying.
641 00:34:43,624 00:34:45,751 I don't know how much you know about me. I don't know how much you know about me.
642 00:34:45,918 00:34:48,962 - I didn't know it at the time, but apparently, - I didn't know it at the time, but apparently,
643 00:34:49,129 00:34:52,549 Halston and Ed had had a relationship earlier. Halston and Ed had had a relationship earlier.
644 00:34:52,716 00:34:55,177 (thunder rumbling) (thunder rumbling)
645 00:34:55,344 00:34:56,762 - I was kept hidden. - I was kept hidden.
646 00:34:56,929 00:34:58,889 I still don't know why. I still don't know why.
647 00:34:59,056 00:35:01,350 I would go to his house at night. I would go to his house at night.
648 00:35:01,517 00:35:03,018 The doorman would stop me and say, The doorman would stop me and say,
649 00:35:03,185 00:35:06,522 "The deliveries go in the back," that sort of thing. "The deliveries go in the back," that sort of thing.
650 00:35:08,732 00:35:11,235 We had a wonderful relationship. We had a wonderful relationship.
651 00:35:11,401 00:35:15,697 He used to call me the crown prince, and he was the king. He used to call me the crown prince, and he was the king.
652 00:35:15,864 00:35:18,033 - When did it end? - When did it end?
653 00:35:19,827 00:35:22,162 - One Christmas, - One Christmas,
654 00:35:22,329 00:35:25,707 Ed had done this absolutely beautiful window. Ed had done this absolutely beautiful window.
655 00:35:27,376 00:35:32,422 And that was the day that Victor Hugo took over. And that was the day that Victor Hugo took over.
656 00:35:47,104 00:35:48,355 - Victor came down - Victor came down
657 00:35:48,522 00:35:51,066 and started to rearrange Ed's window. and started to rearrange Ed's window.
658 00:35:53,610 00:35:57,072 It was very asymmetrical, and very haphazard. It was very asymmetrical, and very haphazard.
659 00:35:58,991 00:36:01,869 But Halston came and loved the window. But Halston came and loved the window.
660 00:36:03,412 00:36:08,292 When Ed saw it, he just put on his coat and went home. When Ed saw it, he just put on his coat and went home.
661 00:36:08,458 00:36:10,961 It was the changing of the guard. It was the changing of the guard.
662 00:36:12,254 00:36:14,464 - Are you looking for his Rosebud? - Are you looking for his Rosebud?
663 00:36:14,631 00:36:17,009 The one thing that explains his whole life? The one thing that explains his whole life?
664 00:36:17,175 00:36:18,343 You won't find one. You won't find one.
665 00:36:18,510 00:36:20,012 Not with Halston. Not with Halston.
666 00:36:20,178 00:36:22,806 What you see is what you get, baby. What you see is what you get, baby.
667 00:36:25,726 00:36:27,394 - Victor was Venezuelan, - Victor was Venezuelan,
668 00:36:27,561 00:36:31,481 and he was a bad boy who got into a lot of trouble. and he was a bad boy who got into a lot of trouble.
669 00:36:33,191 00:36:36,236 - My theory has always been that - My theory has always been that
670 00:36:36,403 00:36:39,281 Halston came from an alcoholic family. Halston came from an alcoholic family.
671 00:36:41,116 00:36:43,911 That his father had a problem. That his father had a problem.
672 00:36:44,077 00:36:47,873 And that Halston recreated his family life with Victor And that Halston recreated his family life with Victor
673 00:36:48,040 00:36:50,375 as the dysfunctional person as the dysfunctional person
674 00:36:50,542 00:36:55,505 who is constantly going to keep everything off balance. who is constantly going to keep everything off balance.
675 00:36:55,672 00:36:59,009 (upbeat music) (upbeat music)
676 00:37:24,201 00:37:26,495 - He'd do the pregnancy, Patty Hearst. - He'd do the pregnancy, Patty Hearst.
677 00:37:26,662 00:37:27,871 I mean, really crazy. I mean, really crazy.
678 00:37:28,038 00:37:31,875 But this was his personality, extreme. But this was his personality, extreme.
679 00:37:58,986 00:38:00,570 - Roy, I found these pictures of us - Roy, I found these pictures of us
680 00:38:00,737 00:38:05,867 in my mom's attic. in my mom's attic.
681 00:38:10,956 00:38:14,793 Darling H, you love life and I love you. Darling H, you love life and I love you.
682 00:38:14,960 00:38:18,255 - Ladies and gentlemen, Liza Minnelli. - Ladies and gentlemen, Liza Minnelli.
683 00:38:18,422 00:38:23,051 (epic music) (audience applauding) (epic music) (audience applauding)
684 00:38:23,760 00:38:25,137 - When I met Halston, - When I met Halston,
685 00:38:25,303 00:38:27,639 I just remember him talking and me listening. I just remember him talking and me listening.
686 00:38:27,806 00:38:29,391 (camera shutter clicks) (camera shutter clicks)
687 00:38:29,558 00:38:31,810 He'd say, "I got it, all right," and just put it on you. He'd say, "I got it, all right," and just put it on you.
688 00:38:31,977 00:38:34,062 And it danced with you, that's it. And it danced with you, that's it.
689 00:38:34,229 00:38:36,773 His clothes danced with you. His clothes danced with you.
690 00:38:36,940 00:38:38,191 (camera shutter clicks) (camera shutter clicks)
691 00:38:38,358 00:38:40,402 We were joined at the hip from then on. We were joined at the hip from then on.
692 00:38:40,569 00:38:41,778 He was like my dad, in a way, He was like my dad, in a way,
693 00:38:41,945 00:38:44,322 because when I was a little girl, because when I was a little girl,
694 00:38:44,489 00:38:48,744 my father would give me five costumes every year. my father would give me five costumes every year.
695 00:38:48,910 00:38:53,081 And it was a dress from An American In Paris. And it was a dress from An American In Paris.
696 00:38:53,248 00:38:56,918 And perfectly made, exactly like for the ladies. And perfectly made, exactly like for the ladies.
697 00:38:58,003 00:39:00,797 And I guess I got into appreciating And I guess I got into appreciating
698 00:39:01,882 00:39:05,135 how clothes could change the way you felt. how clothes could change the way you felt.
699 00:39:06,887 00:39:08,930 - She dressed only in Halston, ever. - She dressed only in Halston, ever.
700 00:39:09,097 00:39:10,515 I mean, she still does. I mean, she still does.
701 00:39:10,682 00:39:11,933 - Yes. (audience applauding) - Yes. (audience applauding)
702 00:39:12,100 00:39:13,310 - Liza Minnelli. - Liza Minnelli.
703 00:39:13,477 00:39:15,645 (audience cheering and applauding) (audience cheering and applauding)
704 00:39:15,812 00:39:18,940 ♪ Say yes ♪ ♪ Say yes ♪
705 00:39:19,107 00:39:22,611 ♪ Life keeps happening every day ♪ ♪ Life keeps happening every day ♪
706 00:39:22,778 00:39:24,654 - And this is Halston, who is, I think, today, - And this is Halston, who is, I think, today,
707 00:39:24,821 00:39:26,281 wouldn't you say, the best-known name, wouldn't you say, the best-known name,
708 00:39:26,448 00:39:27,699 no, you shouldn't say best and worst no, you shouldn't say best and worst
709 00:39:27,866 00:39:29,451 'cause then other designers get upset. 'cause then other designers get upset.
710 00:39:29,618 00:39:31,119 You're pretty good, Halston. - Thank you. You're pretty good, Halston. - Thank you.
711 00:39:31,286 00:39:32,704 (all laughing) (all laughing)
712 00:39:32,871 00:39:34,956 ♪ You'll never win if you never play ♪ ♪ You'll never win if you never play ♪
713 00:39:35,123 00:39:38,627 - He would always think, how do I go to that next level? - He would always think, how do I go to that next level?
714 00:39:38,794 00:39:42,005 ♪ There's mink and marigold right outside ♪ ♪ There's mink and marigold right outside ♪
715 00:39:42,172 00:39:43,465 ♪ And long white Cadillacs ♪ ♪ And long white Cadillacs ♪
716 00:39:43,632 00:39:45,383 - He was looking for a perfume company. - He was looking for a perfume company.
717 00:39:45,550 00:39:48,845 ♪ Nothing's gained if there's nothing tried ♪ ♪ Nothing's gained if there's nothing tried ♪
718 00:39:49,012 00:39:50,180 ♪ Say yes ♪ ♪ Say yes ♪
719 00:39:50,347 00:39:51,973 - Every single week, - Every single week,
720 00:39:52,140 00:39:54,976 he was having meetings with Revlon's Sol Levine, Coty. he was having meetings with Revlon's Sol Levine, Coty.
721 00:39:55,143 00:39:57,187 - A Mr. Bannon of IFF, - A Mr. Bannon of IFF,
722 00:39:57,354 00:40:00,107 he'd like to meet with you today if possible. he'd like to meet with you today if possible.
723 00:40:00,273 00:40:03,777 - And then finally, Max Factor. - And then finally, Max Factor.
724 00:40:03,944 00:40:07,280 And Max Factor was a subsidiary of Norton Simon. And Max Factor was a subsidiary of Norton Simon.
725 00:40:07,447 00:40:11,535 ♪ Say yes ♪ ♪ Say yes ♪
726 00:40:11,701 00:40:13,078 ♪ Yes, I can ♪ ♪ Yes, I can ♪
727 00:40:13,245 00:40:15,872 - I remember Halston saying to Andy and me, - I remember Halston saying to Andy and me,
728 00:40:16,039 00:40:18,875 "You know, I really like the Norton Simon people "You know, I really like the Norton Simon people
729 00:40:19,042 00:40:21,336 "because they're all so tall." "because they're all so tall."
730 00:40:25,298 00:40:28,135 David Mahoney was the chairman of Norton Simon. David Mahoney was the chairman of Norton Simon.
731 00:40:28,301 00:40:30,595 And he was tall, good-looking, And he was tall, good-looking,
732 00:40:30,762 00:40:32,848 and you know, a lot of glamour. and you know, a lot of glamour.
733 00:40:33,014 00:40:36,518 ♪ There's lots of chaff, but there's lots of wheat ♪ ♪ There's lots of chaff, but there's lots of wheat ♪
734 00:40:46,236 00:40:49,156 ♪ Say yes ♪ ♪ Say yes ♪
735 00:40:49,322 00:40:50,949 - It seemed like a good match. - It seemed like a good match.
736 00:40:51,116 00:40:55,120 If he was bought in total under Norton Simon, If he was bought in total under Norton Simon,
737 00:40:55,287 00:40:58,039 he'd have the freedom to explore and to develop more he'd have the freedom to explore and to develop more
738 00:40:58,206 00:41:00,041 of what Halston wanted. of what Halston wanted.
739 00:41:00,208 00:41:01,084 ♪ Yes, I'll dare ♪ ♪ Yes, I'll dare ♪
740 00:41:01,251 00:41:03,920 ♪ Yes, I'll fly ♪ ♪ Yes, I'll fly ♪
741 00:41:14,222 00:41:18,894 ♪ Yes (chuckling) ♪ (audience applauding) ♪ Yes (chuckling) ♪ (audience applauding)
742 00:41:19,811 00:41:22,731 (gentle piano music) (gentle piano music)
743 00:41:26,026 00:41:28,445 - At the time, it seemed like a huge coup. - At the time, it seemed like a huge coup.
744 00:41:28,612 00:41:31,198 And all his friends, I mean, including Andy and all of us, And all his friends, I mean, including Andy and all of us,
745 00:41:31,364 00:41:33,241 were very happy for him. were very happy for him.
746 00:41:33,408 00:41:37,370 - He told me, "Gino, we're gonna be very busy - He told me, "Gino, we're gonna be very busy
747 00:41:37,537 00:41:41,833 "because I'm gonna design furniture, car interiors. "because I'm gonna design furniture, car interiors.
748 00:41:42,000 00:41:44,878 "I'm gonna design a carpet." "I'm gonna design a carpet."
749 00:41:45,045 00:41:46,963 - Well, don't you find that if you take on that many things, - Well, don't you find that if you take on that many things,
750 00:41:47,130 00:41:49,216 that one of your projects is going to suffer? that one of your projects is going to suffer?
751 00:41:49,382 00:41:50,926 - It's rather like growing a tree. - It's rather like growing a tree.
752 00:41:51,092 00:41:52,302 You know, everyone thinks you're an overnight success. You know, everyone thinks you're an overnight success.
753 00:41:52,469 00:41:54,429 I've worked very hard for 20 years. I've worked very hard for 20 years.
754 00:41:54,596 00:41:56,723 And, you know, it's just a further extension of it, And, you know, it's just a further extension of it,
755 00:41:56,890 00:41:58,266 it's another branch. it's another branch.
756 00:41:58,433 00:42:01,728 And they all help each other, in a curious way. And they all help each other, in a curious way.
757 00:42:03,855 00:42:07,067 - Was this the beginning of the end? - Was this the beginning of the end?
758 00:42:07,234 00:42:08,944 Or was it just the beginning? Or was it just the beginning?
759 00:42:09,110 00:42:11,613 (vibrant music) (vibrant music)
760 00:42:14,658 00:42:18,078 - In 1973, five American designers - In 1973, five American designers
761 00:42:18,245 00:42:19,913 and five French designers and five French designers
762 00:42:20,080 00:42:23,792 were showing their collections at one time, at one place, were showing their collections at one time, at one place,
763 00:42:23,959 00:42:26,002 the Palace of Versailles. the Palace of Versailles.
764 00:42:28,463 00:42:31,132 - American designers had never been invited - American designers had never been invited
765 00:42:31,299 00:42:32,550 to show in Paris. to show in Paris.
766 00:42:34,094 00:42:36,471 And this was a huge, huge deal. And this was a huge, huge deal.
767 00:42:40,517 00:42:41,851 - For Halston, it was very important. - For Halston, it was very important.
768 00:42:42,018 00:42:44,312 He'd go as far as he had to go to get it He'd go as far as he had to go to get it
769 00:42:44,479 00:42:47,357 to be the best he thought he could make it. to be the best he thought he could make it.
770 00:42:47,524 00:42:50,860 - He realized that you need a star in there. - He realized that you need a star in there.
771 00:42:52,529 00:42:55,991 What happened was that Halston got David Mahoney What happened was that Halston got David Mahoney
772 00:42:56,157 00:43:00,036 to sponsor the trip, and David loved it. to sponsor the trip, and David loved it.
773 00:43:00,203 00:43:01,788 He fit right in there. He fit right in there.
774 00:43:01,955 00:43:06,042 (gentle instrumental music) (gentle instrumental music)
775 00:43:06,209 00:43:07,752 - David Mahoney seemed to me - David Mahoney seemed to me
776 00:43:07,919 00:43:10,297 to be fairly ambitious socially. to be fairly ambitious socially.
777 00:43:10,463 00:43:12,924 And like so many self-made people, And like so many self-made people,
778 00:43:13,091 00:43:17,595 they wanted to be part of this kinda cafe society. they wanted to be part of this kinda cafe society.
779 00:43:22,642 00:43:25,395 - It was a very competitive evening. - It was a very competitive evening.
780 00:43:28,023 00:43:30,233 - I think the designers were having difficulty - I think the designers were having difficulty
781 00:43:30,400 00:43:32,193 with each other. with each other.
782 00:43:32,360 00:43:35,488 The French took up all the time for the rehearsal, The French took up all the time for the rehearsal,
783 00:43:35,655 00:43:37,574 and we were the addendums. and we were the addendums.
784 00:43:38,658 00:43:40,243 It was rude, actually. It was rude, actually.
785 00:43:41,494 00:43:44,873 - Their whole presentation was beyond grand. - Their whole presentation was beyond grand.
786 00:43:46,416 00:43:47,751 They changed orchestras They changed orchestras
787 00:43:47,917 00:43:51,046 for each of the different designer segments. for each of the different designer segments.
788 00:43:51,212 00:43:52,756 - We couldn't rehearse. - We couldn't rehearse.
789 00:43:52,922 00:43:55,258 All of us were waiting and waiting. All of us were waiting and waiting.
790 00:43:55,425 00:43:57,427 It was cold, damp. It was cold, damp.
791 00:43:57,594 00:44:00,722 Unfortunately with Halston, it got to him. Unfortunately with Halston, it got to him.
792 00:44:00,889 00:44:02,724 - A terrible fight seems to break out. - A terrible fight seems to break out.
793 00:44:02,891 00:44:06,811 I heard some very vicious things were said. I heard some very vicious things were said.
794 00:44:06,978 00:44:09,856 - He did have a blowup, very dramatic. - He did have a blowup, very dramatic.
795 00:44:10,940 00:44:13,610 - It was very difficult. - It was very difficult.
796 00:44:13,777 00:44:15,445 Halston left, and Liza said, you know, Halston left, and Liza said, you know,
797 00:44:15,612 00:44:17,906 "We've got to get this show done." "We've got to get this show done."
798 00:44:18,073 00:44:20,367 - She's the one who sat down with Halston. - She's the one who sat down with Halston.
799 00:44:20,533 00:44:22,202 She unified everybody. She unified everybody.
800 00:44:23,995 00:44:27,082 - We'd open, and I'd sing Bonjour Paris. - We'd open, and I'd sing Bonjour Paris.
801 00:44:28,249 00:44:31,461 ♪ I wanna step out down the Champs-Elysee ♪ ♪ I wanna step out down the Champs-Elysee ♪
802 00:44:31,628 00:44:34,798 ♪ From the Arch of Triumph to the Petit Palais ♪ ♪ From the Arch of Triumph to the Petit Palais ♪
803 00:44:34,964 00:44:37,425 ♪ That's for me ♪ ♪ That's for me ♪
804 00:44:37,592 00:44:40,678 ♪ Bonjour, Paris ♪ - Bonjour, Paris! ♪ Bonjour, Paris ♪ - Bonjour, Paris!
805 00:44:40,845 00:44:41,930 So. So.
806 00:44:42,097 00:44:44,891 (upbeat music) (upbeat music)
807 00:44:45,058 00:44:46,434 Let's get started. Let's get started.
808 00:44:46,601 00:44:47,769 And we were off. And we were off.
809 00:44:51,856 00:44:53,817 - It was directed like a musical. - It was directed like a musical.
810 00:44:53,983 00:44:57,237 - Liza said, "Look, it doesn't wanna look rehearsed. - Liza said, "Look, it doesn't wanna look rehearsed.
811 00:44:57,404 00:45:00,323 "The more human, the more goofed up, "The more human, the more goofed up,
812 00:45:00,490 00:45:03,118 "that's gonna make this happen." "that's gonna make this happen."
813 00:45:04,577 00:45:06,996 - We were so wild, in comparison. - We were so wild, in comparison.
814 00:45:07,163 00:45:10,208 We had 12 African-American girls. We had 12 African-American girls.
815 00:45:10,375 00:45:11,668 They only had one. They only had one.
816 00:45:16,381 00:45:20,718 - No sets, it was just straightforward fashion, - No sets, it was just straightforward fashion,
817 00:45:20,885 00:45:24,973 in your face, and modern. in your face, and modern.
818 00:45:29,978 00:45:33,398 - All of that energy and that joy and that wonder - All of that energy and that joy and that wonder
819 00:45:33,565 00:45:35,275 and that curiosity. and that curiosity.
820 00:45:35,442 00:45:36,734 Well, that is America. Well, that is America.
821 00:45:36,901 00:45:39,404 (audience applauding) (audience applauding)
822 00:45:39,571 00:45:41,823 At the end of Halston's piece, At the end of Halston's piece,
823 00:45:43,241 00:45:46,202 they threw their programs up in the air. they threw their programs up in the air.
824 00:45:46,369 00:45:47,620 They went bananas. They went bananas.
825 00:45:48,997 00:45:52,584 - Versailles put American fashion on the map. - Versailles put American fashion on the map.
826 00:45:52,750 00:45:53,501 On the map. On the map.
827 00:45:55,211 00:45:58,131 - Halston was at the top of his game. - Halston was at the top of his game.
828 00:45:58,298 00:46:01,384 He came like a king of the Americans. He came like a king of the Americans.
829 00:46:01,551 00:46:04,012 - Versailles was an extension - Versailles was an extension
830 00:46:04,179 00:46:07,182 of what he felt he could achieve going down the road of what he felt he could achieve going down the road
831 00:46:07,348 00:46:09,184 because of Norton Simon. because of Norton Simon.
832 00:46:11,519 00:46:14,105 When he came back, the whole thing changed. When he came back, the whole thing changed.
833 00:46:14,272 00:46:16,774 His first real office by himself His first real office by himself
834 00:46:16,941 00:46:20,278 was all lined with mirrors, all along. was all lined with mirrors, all along.
835 00:46:20,445 00:46:22,864 It was like, totally mirrored. It was like, totally mirrored.
836 00:46:23,031 00:46:26,201 Very modern and very slick and minimal. Very modern and very slick and minimal.
837 00:46:26,367 00:46:30,371 You can see his changing of his whole almost psyche. You can see his changing of his whole almost psyche.
838 00:46:32,332 00:46:35,460 The hair started getting cut less bohemian, The hair started getting cut less bohemian,
839 00:46:35,627 00:46:38,213 more crisp and clean, opened his face. more crisp and clean, opened his face.
840 00:46:38,379 00:46:40,256 The white shirt, the tie. The white shirt, the tie.
841 00:46:41,591 00:46:42,926 He's very in control. He's very in control.
842 00:46:43,092 00:46:45,011 He's very, he is Halston. He's very, he is Halston.
843 00:46:46,387 00:46:48,097 He is Halston, you know? He is Halston, you know?
844 00:46:48,264 00:46:49,807 And it was like, wow! And it was like, wow!
845 00:46:51,476 00:46:54,145 (slow jazz music) (slow jazz music)
846 00:46:57,982 00:47:00,485 - I'm Halston, and this is my home. - I'm Halston, and this is my home.
847 00:47:02,779 00:47:05,073 The architect was Paul Rudolph. The architect was Paul Rudolph.
848 00:47:05,240 00:47:07,992 And the day I saw it, I bought it. And the day I saw it, I bought it.
849 00:47:08,159 00:47:09,869 It's the only real modern house It's the only real modern house
850 00:47:10,036 00:47:12,539 built in the City of New York since the Second World War. built in the City of New York since the Second World War.
851 00:47:12,705 00:47:15,458 It's like living in a three-dimensional sculpture. It's like living in a three-dimensional sculpture.
852 00:47:15,625 00:47:18,169 - When I was hired by Norton Simon, - When I was hired by Norton Simon,
853 00:47:18,336 00:47:20,088 of course I had to meet Halston. of course I had to meet Halston.
854 00:47:20,255 00:47:22,882 So I went to his townhouse. So I went to his townhouse.
855 00:47:23,049 00:47:24,759 And he showed me through the whole thing, And he showed me through the whole thing,
856 00:47:24,926 00:47:27,345 and he was clearly delighted with his new toy. and he was clearly delighted with his new toy.
857 00:47:27,512 00:47:29,305 And I was terribly impressed. And I was terribly impressed.
858 00:47:29,472 00:47:30,932 And I remember saying to him, And I remember saying to him,
859 00:47:31,099 00:47:32,892 I'm gonna enjoy making money for you, Halston, I'm gonna enjoy making money for you, Halston,
860 00:47:33,059 00:47:35,478 'cause you know how to spend it. 'cause you know how to spend it.
861 00:47:36,896 00:47:39,148 My brief was that, whatever else you do, My brief was that, whatever else you do,
862 00:47:39,315 00:47:42,777 you've got to get the fragrance underway. you've got to get the fragrance underway.
863 00:47:42,944 00:47:45,947 He wanted Elsa to design the bottle. He wanted Elsa to design the bottle.
864 00:47:46,114 00:47:47,532 - Elsa Peretti would come in. - Elsa Peretti would come in.
865 00:47:47,699 00:47:50,493 He wanted it to be sort of a teardrop shape, He wanted it to be sort of a teardrop shape,
866 00:47:50,660 00:47:53,204 like her iconic necklaces. like her iconic necklaces.
867 00:47:53,371 00:47:57,333 And they went through a number of iterations. And they went through a number of iterations.
868 00:47:57,500 00:48:00,420 - I design not thinking about the deadline. - I design not thinking about the deadline.
869 00:48:00,587 00:48:03,798 You know how much time it take me to do this glass? You know how much time it take me to do this glass?
870 00:48:03,965 00:48:05,466 - - No. - - No.
871 00:48:05,633 00:48:07,176 - From '74 up to now. - From '74 up to now.
872 00:48:08,469 00:48:10,513 And they're still not good. And they're still not good.
873 00:48:10,680 00:48:13,641 (ethereal music) (ethereal music)
874 00:48:13,808 00:48:16,477 - No one had ever seen a bottle like that. - No one had ever seen a bottle like that.
875 00:48:16,644 00:48:18,354 It had a curved neck. It had a curved neck.
876 00:48:18,521 00:48:20,106 Max Factor people hated it. Max Factor people hated it.
877 00:48:20,273 00:48:21,691 - Production people at Max Factor called me and said, - Production people at Max Factor called me and said,
878 00:48:21,858 00:48:24,527 "You know what this nut is doing now? "You know what this nut is doing now?
879 00:48:24,694 00:48:27,155 "He's putting out a bottle that looks like a glob. "He's putting out a bottle that looks like a glob.
880 00:48:27,322 00:48:29,157 "You can't fill it from the top. "You can't fill it from the top.
881 00:48:29,324 00:48:31,451 "It won't work." "It won't work."
882 00:48:31,618 00:48:33,244 - They had to get a special stopper. - They had to get a special stopper.
883 00:48:33,411 00:48:35,330 They were talking about the economics of it. They were talking about the economics of it.
884 00:48:35,496 00:48:36,998 - I don't think Halston really cared - I don't think Halston really cared
885 00:48:37,165 00:48:38,499 what they thought. what they thought.
886 00:48:38,666 00:48:41,377 (machinery whirring) (machinery whirring)
887 00:48:43,004 00:48:44,756 - It is my name attached to it, - It is my name attached to it,
888 00:48:44,922 00:48:47,008 so I want to live with this for a long time. so I want to live with this for a long time.
889 00:48:47,175 00:48:51,054 Just the bottle alone is a revolutionary new concept. Just the bottle alone is a revolutionary new concept.
890 00:48:51,220 00:48:52,639 - Then I got another phone call. - Then I got another phone call.
891 00:48:52,805 00:48:54,432 It said, "You also realize what he's doing? It said, "You also realize what he's doing?
892 00:48:54,599 00:48:58,269 "He's not even putting his name on it." "He's not even putting his name on it."
893 00:48:58,436 00:49:00,313 - Because he thought it was a work of art. - Because he thought it was a work of art.
894 00:49:00,480 00:49:03,733 And simplicity was the keynote. And simplicity was the keynote.
895 00:49:03,900 00:49:05,109 So his name was on the ribbon So his name was on the ribbon
896 00:49:05,276 00:49:07,153 with which the bottle itself was tied. with which the bottle itself was tied.
897 00:49:07,320 00:49:11,115 No one else had done it that way before. No one else had done it that way before.
898 00:49:11,282 00:49:13,743 And then the fragrance caught on. And then the fragrance caught on.
899 00:49:14,827 00:49:16,454 It became a seller. It became a seller.
900 00:49:16,621 00:49:18,623 (exciting music) (exciting music)
901 00:49:18,790 00:49:21,793 The largest American designer fragrance. The largest American designer fragrance.
902 00:49:21,959 00:49:24,045 The stores couldn't get it fast enough. The stores couldn't get it fast enough.
903 00:49:24,212 00:49:25,380 It was ballistic. It was ballistic.
904 00:49:25,546 00:49:26,964 - You'd get into a taxi in New York, - You'd get into a taxi in New York,
905 00:49:27,131 00:49:28,466 and the taxi driver would say, and the taxi driver would say,
906 00:49:28,633 00:49:31,886 "Oh, you smell good, you're wearing Halston." "Oh, you smell good, you're wearing Halston."
907 00:49:34,305 00:49:38,059 Once it started to go, everything started to go. Once it started to go, everything started to go.
908 00:49:40,395 00:49:43,022 - I began a very large license program. - I began a very large license program.
909 00:49:43,189 00:49:45,108 We were the first American designer We were the first American designer
910 00:49:45,274 00:49:48,486 to really do this heavy. to really do this heavy.
911 00:49:48,653 00:49:52,115 - I have two fragrances for men, a tie licensee, - I have two fragrances for men, a tie licensee,
912 00:49:52,281 00:49:53,616 two suede sport jackets. two suede sport jackets.
913 00:49:53,783 00:49:56,911 We have an entire cosmetic line. We have an entire cosmetic line.
914 00:49:57,078 00:49:58,162 My name is Halston. My name is Halston.
915 00:49:58,329 00:49:59,706 I'm Halston. I'm Halston.
916 00:49:59,872 00:50:01,249 - You've got luggage, you've got-- - You've got luggage, you've got--
917 00:50:01,416 00:50:03,000 - Rugs, sheets, perfume, cosmetics. - Rugs, sheets, perfume, cosmetics.
918 00:50:03,167 00:50:04,377 - Really? - Really?
919 00:50:04,544 00:50:05,336 - Shoes, bags, gloves, sunglasses, - Shoes, bags, gloves, sunglasses,
920 00:50:05,503 00:50:07,171 all kinds of things. all kinds of things.
921 00:50:07,338 00:50:08,673 - Holy cow, you wouldn't have 20 till payday, would you? - Holy cow, you wouldn't have 20 till payday, would you?
922 00:50:08,840 00:50:11,092 I'm a little short. (audience laughing) I'm a little short. (audience laughing)
923 00:50:11,259 00:50:13,469 - The United States of America. - The United States of America.
924 00:50:13,636 00:50:17,598 - He designed the uniform for the '76 Olympics. - He designed the uniform for the '76 Olympics.
925 00:50:17,765 00:50:19,851 - He designed the new Girl Scout Uniform for leaders, - He designed the new Girl Scout Uniform for leaders,
926 00:50:20,017 00:50:22,395 so we don't have to wear the drab-looking things we used to. so we don't have to wear the drab-looking things we used to.
927 00:50:22,562 00:50:23,646 Thank you. - Thank you very much, Thank you. - Thank you very much,
928 00:50:23,813 00:50:26,274 you know. (audience applauding) you know. (audience applauding)
929 00:50:26,441 00:50:27,942 - And you also dressed the Avis-- - And you also dressed the Avis--
930 00:50:28,109 00:50:30,069 - Well, the whole Avis Company. - Well, the whole Avis Company.
931 00:50:30,236 00:50:31,195 No, I do a lot of things like that. No, I do a lot of things like that.
932 00:50:31,362 00:50:32,739 - When do you sleep? - When do you sleep?
933 00:50:32,905 00:50:34,407 - Oh, well, I sleep. (audience applauding) - Oh, well, I sleep. (audience applauding)
934 00:50:34,574 00:50:36,117 - I would call that the golden years. - I would call that the golden years.
935 00:50:36,284 00:50:38,786 What he touched turned to gold. What he touched turned to gold.
936 00:50:40,246 00:50:43,875 He set up the deal for Elsa to go with Tiffany. He set up the deal for Elsa to go with Tiffany.
937 00:50:44,041 00:50:48,337 - Halston took me there, and there I was, with Tiffany. - Halston took me there, and there I was, with Tiffany.
938 00:50:48,504 00:50:50,465 - That's it, that's it, that's all, please. - That's it, that's it, that's all, please.
939 00:50:50,631 00:50:51,591 - He made the wedding clothes - He made the wedding clothes
940 00:50:51,758 00:50:53,468 for Sly and the Family Stone. for Sly and the Family Stone.
941 00:50:55,178 00:50:56,304 - He designed - He designed
942 00:50:56,471 00:50:57,972 all the costumes for Martha Graham, all the costumes for Martha Graham,
943 00:50:58,139 00:51:00,308 and then supported the company. and then supported the company.
944 00:51:00,475 00:51:02,894 (dramatic music) (dramatic music)
945 00:51:03,060 00:51:05,605 - He had a lot of things on his plate. - He had a lot of things on his plate.
946 00:51:05,772 00:51:10,318 And I have a feeling that is where some of the tension And I have a feeling that is where some of the tension
947 00:51:10,485 00:51:11,819 started to happen. started to happen.
948 00:51:14,447 00:51:16,449 - Halston felt that he, individually, - Halston felt that he, individually,
949 00:51:16,616 00:51:18,910 had to design everything that was licensed, had to design everything that was licensed,
950 00:51:19,076 00:51:21,412 and that was a monumental task. and that was a monumental task.
951 00:51:23,456 00:51:24,999 - I must be a part of it. - I must be a part of it.
952 00:51:25,166 00:51:27,794 I never, ever just lent my name I never, ever just lent my name
953 00:51:27,960 00:51:30,546 for a commercial business venture. for a commercial business venture.
954 00:51:32,507 00:51:35,510 - From the first day I got there, - From the first day I got there,
955 00:51:35,676 00:51:38,763 one of the things that I did every couple of weeks one of the things that I did every couple of weeks
956 00:51:38,930 00:51:42,141 was go to the bank and take out a ton of cash was go to the bank and take out a ton of cash
957 00:51:42,308 00:51:45,394 and bring it back in an envelope. and bring it back in an envelope.
958 00:51:45,561 00:51:47,188 He'd say, "I might be in a meeting, He'd say, "I might be in a meeting,
959 00:51:47,355 00:51:50,942 but if Mr. Fisher comes, but if Mr. Fisher comes,
960 00:51:51,108 00:51:53,319 "just give him the envelope." "just give him the envelope."
961 00:51:56,364 00:51:59,575 I never saw him snort cocaine, but I paid, I never saw him snort cocaine, but I paid,
962 00:52:01,410 00:52:04,664 I mean, I got a lot of money every few weeks. I mean, I got a lot of money every few weeks.
963 00:52:04,831 00:52:06,040 $2,000 to $3,000. $2,000 to $3,000.
964 00:52:07,291 00:52:09,252 - I want to stop all the kind of bullshit - I want to stop all the kind of bullshit
965 00:52:09,418 00:52:10,753 that we were drug addicts. that we were drug addicts.
966 00:52:10,920 00:52:13,214 We'd smoke, yeah, but we work. We'd smoke, yeah, but we work.
967 00:52:14,549 00:52:17,051 For that our things were going. For that our things were going.
968 00:52:17,218 00:52:18,845 For that Halston thing. For that Halston thing.
969 00:52:19,011 00:52:20,179 What do you think, with Halston, What do you think, with Halston,
970 00:52:20,346 00:52:22,390 we were there and smoking? we were there and smoking?
971 00:52:22,557 00:52:26,352 No, we were thinking, what you wear, what you do No, we were thinking, what you wear, what you do
972 00:52:26,519 00:52:28,271 all night long. all night long.
973 00:52:28,437 00:52:31,148 I was working all night long. I was working all night long.
974 00:52:31,315 00:52:35,069 Yeah, we took drugs (snorts) of course. Yeah, we took drugs (snorts) of course.
975 00:52:35,236 00:52:39,657 How you cannot take drugs, being up all night long? How you cannot take drugs, being up all night long?
976 00:52:39,824 00:52:41,367 But it was smoking. But it was smoking.
977 00:52:41,534 00:52:44,036 It was not heavy drugs. It was not heavy drugs.
978 00:52:44,203 00:52:45,955 A little coke sometimes. A little coke sometimes.
979 00:52:47,957 00:52:49,542 - Halston took me into his office one day, - Halston took me into his office one day,
980 00:52:49,709 00:52:50,835 and he just said, "You know, and he just said, "You know,
981 00:52:51,002 00:52:52,336 I want somebody who is completely I want somebody who is completely
982 00:52:52,503 00:52:54,380 committed to the business." committed to the business."
983 00:52:58,551 00:53:01,137 - I went to work for Halston. - I went to work for Halston.
984 00:53:01,304 00:53:03,180 The best thing I ever did. The best thing I ever did.
985 00:53:04,557 00:53:07,560 I was totally, 1,000% devoted to him. I was totally, 1,000% devoted to him.
986 00:53:07,727 00:53:10,521 I remember going in to set up my office. I remember going in to set up my office.
987 00:53:10,688 00:53:12,023 It would start to rain. It would start to rain.
988 00:53:12,189 00:53:13,858 And when I got off the elevator, And when I got off the elevator,
989 00:53:14,025 00:53:15,568 Halston was standing there. Halston was standing there.
990 00:53:15,735 00:53:19,447 He looked at me, and he said, "You're all wet." He looked at me, and he said, "You're all wet."
991 00:53:19,614 00:53:22,491 He was carrying a red raincoat, and he said, He was carrying a red raincoat, and he said,
992 00:53:22,658 00:53:24,201 "I want you to try this on. "I want you to try this on.
993 00:53:24,368 00:53:26,746 "I made this for Liza, but I want you to have it." "I made this for Liza, but I want you to have it."
994 00:53:26,913 00:53:29,540 (jazz noir music) (jazz noir music)
995 00:53:31,292 00:53:33,127 He was such a hard worker. He was such a hard worker.
996 00:53:33,294 00:53:35,087 I mean, he'd come in early, go home late, I mean, he'd come in early, go home late,
997 00:53:35,254 00:53:37,757 and always accomplish something. and always accomplish something.
998 00:53:37,924 00:53:39,133 Until Studio 54. Until Studio 54.
999 00:53:41,469 00:53:44,138 ♪ Dance ♪ ♪ Dance ♪
1000 00:53:44,305 00:53:45,848 ♪ Just a feeling ♪ ♪ Just a feeling ♪
1001 00:53:46,015 00:53:50,436 ♪ Dance ♪ ♪ Just a feeling ♪ ♪ Dance ♪ ♪ Just a feeling ♪
1002 00:53:55,066 00:53:57,652 ♪ Just a feeling ♪ ♪ Just a feeling ♪
1003 00:54:00,488 00:54:02,740 - I took Halston to Studio 54. - I took Halston to Studio 54.
1004 00:54:02,907 00:54:04,909 So I don't know what other stories you heard, So I don't know what other stories you heard,
1005 00:54:05,076 00:54:07,203 but I remember that was the first time, and he says, but I remember that was the first time, and he says,
1006 00:54:07,370 00:54:09,330 "I'm gonna bring friends." "I'm gonna bring friends."
1007 00:54:14,001 00:54:17,672 - Halston gave a birthday party for Bianca Jagger, - Halston gave a birthday party for Bianca Jagger,
1008 00:54:17,838 00:54:19,215 and Bianca got on the horse, and Bianca got on the horse,
1009 00:54:19,382 00:54:22,718 and that photograph went around the world. and that photograph went around the world.
1010 00:54:22,885 00:54:27,139 And that made 54 like the place where everybody went. And that made 54 like the place where everybody went.
1011 00:54:27,306 00:54:31,310 (camera shutter clicking) (camera shutter clicking)
1012 00:54:31,477 00:54:33,479 - You're a devotee of Studio 54. - You're a devotee of Studio 54.
1013 00:54:33,646 00:54:35,022 What do you see there? What do you see there?
1014 00:54:35,189 00:54:36,732 - As Truman said, it's the only democracy. - As Truman said, it's the only democracy.
1015 00:54:36,899 00:54:40,152 It's good for everybody on every level of society. It's good for everybody on every level of society.
1016 00:54:40,319 00:54:41,696 - This is the scene - This is the scene
1017 00:54:41,862 00:54:44,156 outside a New York disco called Studio 54. outside a New York disco called Studio 54.
1018 00:54:44,323 00:54:47,284 This is the place that's in with the disco crowd, This is the place that's in with the disco crowd,
1019 00:54:47,451 00:54:51,372 except that these people are still out. except that these people are still out.
1020 00:54:51,539 00:54:53,165 Of course, Liza Minnelli and her kind of celebrities Of course, Liza Minnelli and her kind of celebrities
1021 00:54:53,332 00:54:54,875 sweep right through the protective ranks sweep right through the protective ranks
1022 00:54:55,042 00:54:58,295 of doorkeepers. of doorkeepers.
1023 00:54:58,462 00:55:00,548 - They are discriminating at Studio 54. - They are discriminating at Studio 54.
1024 00:55:00,715 00:55:03,217 Recently, a president of a Wall Street brokerage firm Recently, a president of a Wall Street brokerage firm
1025 00:55:03,384 00:55:05,261 was ejected, and he was a member. was ejected, and he was a member.
1026 00:55:05,428 00:55:08,264 So he's suing for a million. So he's suing for a million.
1027 00:55:08,431 00:55:09,557 - I'll do a Donna Summer song. - I'll do a Donna Summer song.
1028 00:55:09,724 00:55:11,225 Ah. (laughing) Ah. (laughing)
1029 00:55:11,392 00:55:13,728 (disco music) (disco music)
1030 00:55:16,981 00:55:19,775 - I think they lived out a lot of their fantasies. - I think they lived out a lot of their fantasies.
1031 00:55:19,942 00:55:22,611 As gay boys, Hollywood was such a big influence As gay boys, Hollywood was such a big influence
1032 00:55:22,778 00:55:25,156 on both Andy and Halston. on both Andy and Halston.
1033 00:55:25,322 00:55:26,824 - I was born in the Midwest. - I was born in the Midwest.
1034 00:55:26,991 00:55:30,411 And, you know, much of your life was really probably And, you know, much of your life was really probably
1035 00:55:30,578 00:55:35,541 involved in going to the movies on Saturdays and Sundays. involved in going to the movies on Saturdays and Sundays.
1036 00:55:35,708 00:55:37,043 - If you were at a dinner party - If you were at a dinner party
1037 00:55:37,209 00:55:38,544 and you could have one person on the left and you could have one person on the left
1038 00:55:38,711 00:55:40,379 and one on the right, who would that be? and one on the right, who would that be?
1039 00:55:40,546 00:55:41,839 - Halston and Elizabeth Taylor. - Halston and Elizabeth Taylor.
1040 00:55:42,006 00:55:42,965 - Why? - Why?
1041 00:55:43,132 00:55:45,718 - Oh, they're both wonderful. - Oh, they're both wonderful.
1042 00:55:45,885 00:55:47,094 - They weren't society, - They weren't society,
1043 00:55:47,261 00:55:49,638 but they became a new kind of society. but they became a new kind of society.
1044 00:55:52,016 00:55:54,435 Suddenly, you know, gays were part of society. Suddenly, you know, gays were part of society.
1045 00:55:54,602 00:55:57,271 Many more Jews were part of society. Many more Jews were part of society.
1046 00:56:00,399 00:56:02,109 - He wasn't a snob. - He wasn't a snob.
1047 00:56:02,276 00:56:03,903 Halston wasn't a snob. Halston wasn't a snob.
1048 00:56:04,070 00:56:05,780 He wasn't uppity. He wasn't uppity.
1049 00:56:05,946 00:56:07,281 He wasn't anything. He wasn't anything.
1050 00:56:07,448 00:56:09,075 - Both you and Halston come from Indiana. - Both you and Halston come from Indiana.
1051 00:56:09,241 00:56:11,452 You sound like Cary Grant, you sound like Noel Coward. You sound like Cary Grant, you sound like Noel Coward.
1052 00:56:11,619 00:56:13,287 (both laughing) (both laughing)
1053 00:56:13,454 00:56:15,039 You moved the accent. You moved the accent.
1054 00:56:15,206 00:56:16,582 Were you unhappy at some point with where you came from, Were you unhappy at some point with where you came from,
1055 00:56:16,749 00:56:18,584 and decided, I'm going to show them? and decided, I'm going to show them?
1056 00:56:18,751 00:56:20,086 - Never. - Never.
1057 00:56:20,252 00:56:21,420 Never. Never.
1058 00:56:21,587 00:56:22,797 I wasn't, anyway. I wasn't, anyway.
1059 00:56:26,383 00:56:29,345 - Well, everybody was free love, and free this, - Well, everybody was free love, and free this,
1060 00:56:29,512 00:56:33,140 and poppers and coke and this and that. and poppers and coke and this and that.
1061 00:56:38,187 00:56:42,233 It got very muddy, and it's like quicksand. It got very muddy, and it's like quicksand.
1062 00:56:43,609 00:56:46,779 If everybody around you is going down, If everybody around you is going down,
1063 00:56:46,946 00:56:48,864 you're gonna go too. you're gonna go too.
1064 00:56:52,743 00:56:55,496 - Victor was a destructive force. - Victor was a destructive force.
1065 00:56:55,663 00:56:58,374 Andy did Victor's portraits, I think he did two. Andy did Victor's portraits, I think he did two.
1066 00:56:58,541 00:57:00,292 And one day, Victor shows up And one day, Victor shows up
1067 00:57:00,459 00:57:02,837 with the paintings completely covered with graffiti, with the paintings completely covered with graffiti,
1068 00:57:03,003 00:57:04,171 and just a mess. and just a mess.
1069 00:57:06,507 00:57:09,051 And he had painted over them, And he had painted over them,
1070 00:57:09,218 00:57:13,514 thinking this was like taking Andy's art to another level. thinking this was like taking Andy's art to another level.
1071 00:57:13,681 00:57:15,307 And Andy was really mad. And Andy was really mad.
1072 00:57:15,474 00:57:16,809 And Andy was like, And Andy was like,
1073 00:57:16,976 00:57:18,519 "Don't think I'm doing new ones, Victor." "Don't think I'm doing new ones, Victor."
1074 00:57:32,116 00:57:34,535 (upbeat music) (upbeat music)
1075 00:57:36,036 00:57:40,833 - Company was booming, so I went out looking for space. - Company was booming, so I went out looking for space.
1076 00:57:41,000 00:57:44,753 And I came upon this thing in Olympic Tower, And I came upon this thing in Olympic Tower,
1077 00:57:44,920 00:57:46,463 and that was the end of the search, and that was the end of the search,
1078 00:57:46,630 00:57:51,010 because Halston, "That's the one we're gonna get." because Halston, "That's the one we're gonna get."
1079 00:57:51,177 00:57:52,636 The architect came up with some plans, The architect came up with some plans,
1080 00:57:52,803 00:57:54,555 and Halston didn't like them. and Halston didn't like them.
1081 00:57:54,722 00:57:58,017 He wanted something that took spectacular use of the space. He wanted something that took spectacular use of the space.
1082 00:57:58,184 00:58:01,562 And he began to design what he wanted. And he began to design what he wanted.
1083 00:58:17,578 00:58:19,413 Mirrors everywhere. Mirrors everywhere.
1084 00:58:19,580 00:58:20,623 The walls were mirrors. The walls were mirrors.
1085 00:58:20,789 00:58:23,334 Everything was mirrors. Everything was mirrors.
1086 00:58:23,500 00:58:25,002 Except my office. Except my office.
1087 00:58:25,169 00:58:26,921 I wouldn't allow them to put up mirrors in my office. I wouldn't allow them to put up mirrors in my office.
1088 00:58:27,087 00:58:28,964 I didn't wanna look at myself all day. I didn't wanna look at myself all day.
1089 00:58:32,218 00:58:35,596 - Halston made sure that his entire workroom - Halston made sure that his entire workroom
1090 00:58:35,763 00:58:38,849 were in a room with a lot of windows, were in a room with a lot of windows,
1091 00:58:39,016 00:58:42,519 so that as they sewed and fitted every day, so that as they sewed and fitted every day,
1092 00:58:42,686 00:58:44,813 they didn't feel confined. they didn't feel confined.
1093 00:58:44,980 00:58:47,066 That really impressed me. That really impressed me.
1094 00:58:47,233 00:58:51,070 - When the workmen saw the space, the women wept. - When the workmen saw the space, the women wept.
1095 00:58:52,529 00:58:55,032 - That was the best workroom in the world. - That was the best workroom in the world.
1096 00:58:55,199 00:58:57,743 Was even too good to be a workroom. Was even too good to be a workroom.
1097 00:58:57,910 00:59:00,412 (upbeat music) (upbeat music)
1098 00:59:13,634 00:59:16,762 - There wasn't, at the time, I don't think there is today, - There wasn't, at the time, I don't think there is today,
1099 00:59:16,929 00:59:20,808 a fashion house ever as grand as that was. a fashion house ever as grand as that was.
1100 00:59:25,771 00:59:30,359 (camera shutter clicking) (camera shutter clicking)
1101 00:59:35,281 00:59:36,907 - In that space, - In that space,
1102 00:59:37,074 00:59:39,785 he had reached something very specific to him. he had reached something very specific to him.
1103 00:59:39,952 00:59:42,288 That's where he felt he belonged. That's where he felt he belonged.
1104 00:59:42,454 00:59:44,498 ♪ I'm in with the in crowd ♪ ♪ I'm in with the in crowd ♪
1105 00:59:44,665 00:59:47,001 - The shows there were amazing. - The shows there were amazing.
1106 00:59:47,167 00:59:49,878 You felt like walking on a cloud down the runway. You felt like walking on a cloud down the runway.
1107 00:59:50,045 00:59:52,965 ♪ I'm in with the in crowd ♪ ♪ I'm in with the in crowd ♪
1108 00:59:53,132 00:59:55,592 - Once he moved into the Olympic Tower, - Once he moved into the Olympic Tower,
1109 00:59:55,759 00:59:58,595 his front row was the most glamorous in New York. his front row was the most glamorous in New York.
1110 00:59:58,762 01:00:01,724 Diana Vreeland, Lee Radziwill, Liza Minnelli. Diana Vreeland, Lee Radziwill, Liza Minnelli.
1111 01:00:01,890 01:00:03,559 (camera shutter clicking) (camera shutter clicking)
1112 01:00:03,726 01:00:06,478 - He was the first to really bring in movie stars. - He was the first to really bring in movie stars.
1113 01:00:06,645 01:00:09,898 (audience applauding) (audience applauding)
1114 01:00:10,065 01:00:11,275 - They are the elite of New York City, - They are the elite of New York City,
1115 01:00:11,442 01:00:13,152 and they've been invited by Halston, and they've been invited by Halston,
1116 01:00:13,319 01:00:15,487 who's standing here beside me. who's standing here beside me.
1117 01:00:17,156 01:00:18,198 - I always saw him as famous. - I always saw him as famous.
1118 01:00:18,365 01:00:20,075 - I made it in New York. - I made it in New York.
1119 01:00:20,242 01:00:23,704 - But then, of course, it became ginormous. - But then, of course, it became ginormous.
1120 01:00:25,331 01:00:26,749 - And what he did was - And what he did was
1121 01:00:26,915 01:00:28,292 he surrounded himself for public appearances he surrounded himself for public appearances
1122 01:00:28,459 01:00:30,919 with what became known as the Halstonettes. with what became known as the Halstonettes.
1123 01:00:31,086 01:00:33,255 ♪ I go where the in crowd goes ♪ ♪ I go where the in crowd goes ♪
1124 01:00:33,422 01:00:35,424 - Brilliant marketing, brilliant. - Brilliant marketing, brilliant.
1125 01:00:38,302 01:00:41,555 - Sometimes there were 20 of us, you know? - Sometimes there were 20 of us, you know?
1126 01:00:43,265 01:00:44,808 - Some of the people I knew in the fashion business, - Some of the people I knew in the fashion business,
1127 01:00:44,975 01:00:46,060 I mean, they were totally dismissive. I mean, they were totally dismissive.
1128 01:00:46,226 01:00:47,686 I mean, who does he think he is? I mean, who does he think he is?
1129 01:00:47,853 01:00:49,563 And the answer is, what picture is gonna run? And the answer is, what picture is gonna run?
1130 01:00:49,730 01:00:51,315 Is it gonna be some fashion designer standing by himself? Is it gonna be some fashion designer standing by himself?
1131 01:00:51,482 01:00:55,319 Or is it gonna be Halston with the Halstonettes? Or is it gonna be Halston with the Halstonettes?
1132 01:00:55,486 01:01:00,074 ♪ They know the in crowd is out of sight ♪ ♪ They know the in crowd is out of sight ♪
1133 01:01:02,493 01:01:03,535 - I want to run the faces of all - I want to run the faces of all
1134 01:01:03,702 01:01:05,245 the women close-up. the women close-up.
1135 01:01:05,412 01:01:06,121 - Right. - Right.
1136 01:01:06,288 01:01:08,082 - We've done that. - We've done that.
1137 01:01:08,248 01:01:09,583 Okay, where are the-- Okay, where are the--
1138 01:01:09,750 01:01:10,542 - John Fairchild is the publisher - John Fairchild is the publisher
1139 01:01:10,709 01:01:12,169 of Women's Wear. of Women's Wear.
1140 01:01:12,336 01:01:14,088 As always, he has the final word As always, he has the final word
1141 01:01:14,254 01:01:17,925 on how last night's party will look in the next edition. on how last night's party will look in the next edition.
1142 01:01:18,092 01:01:21,053 Women's Wear is the bible of the industry. Women's Wear is the bible of the industry.
1143 01:01:21,220 01:01:22,471 - Halston, if they stand on the table, - Halston, if they stand on the table,
1144 01:01:22,638 01:01:25,015 will it hurt the table? will it hurt the table?
1145 01:01:25,182 01:01:26,433 - It would, 'cause I just had 'em lacquered. - It would, 'cause I just had 'em lacquered.
1146 01:01:26,600 01:01:28,143 - No, no, no. - No, no, no.
1147 01:01:28,310 01:01:29,520 Can they stand on the table with their bare feet? Can they stand on the table with their bare feet?
1148 01:01:29,686 01:01:31,647 - Whatever makes you happy. - Whatever makes you happy.
1149 01:01:31,814 01:01:32,856 Assistants. Assistants.
1150 01:01:33,023 01:01:34,441 - Yes? - Yes?
1151 01:01:34,608 01:01:36,860 - Boy, what a shot that is, whoa. - Boy, what a shot that is, whoa.
1152 01:01:37,027 01:01:38,779 - Leave the candles. - Leave the candles.
1153 01:01:59,758 01:02:01,760 - Everybody at the Olympic Tower called him H. - Everybody at the Olympic Tower called him H.
1154 01:02:01,927 01:02:02,928 And they'd say, "H?" And they'd say, "H?"
1155 01:02:03,095 01:02:05,389 And he'd say, "I am the emperor." And he'd say, "I am the emperor."
1156 01:02:06,473 01:02:09,977 And he was believing this stuff. And he was believing this stuff.
1157 01:02:10,144 01:02:11,603 - Halston, is it tougher to get on top, - Halston, is it tougher to get on top,
1158 01:02:11,770 01:02:13,063 or to stay on top? or to stay on top?
1159 01:02:14,982 01:02:17,151 - Halston said, "Let me tell you, we're going to China." - Halston said, "Let me tell you, we're going to China."
1160 01:02:17,317 01:02:18,152 I'm like, wow. I'm like, wow.
1161 01:02:20,612 01:02:21,738 - China wanted to show the world - China wanted to show the world
1162 01:02:21,905 01:02:23,907 that they were opening up. that they were opening up.
1163 01:02:24,074 01:02:26,493 So they invited the master of publicity So they invited the master of publicity
1164 01:02:26,660 01:02:28,537 to visit the silk cities. to visit the silk cities.
1165 01:02:31,331 01:02:32,875 - Come on, D.D., come on, everybody. - Come on, D.D., come on, everybody.
1166 01:02:33,041 01:02:36,503 What I want to explain to you all is what we're doing. What I want to explain to you all is what we're doing.
1167 01:02:36,670 01:02:41,383 - With the China trip, you could see the brain working. - With the China trip, you could see the brain working.
1168 01:02:41,550 01:02:46,054 Each girl had their own personal collection designed. Each girl had their own personal collection designed.
1169 01:02:46,221 01:02:48,307 Everything, all laid out. Everything, all laid out.
1170 01:02:48,474 01:02:51,351 - We just needed to pack our lingerie and makeup. - We just needed to pack our lingerie and makeup.
1171 01:02:51,518 01:02:53,312 - We will also go to the Ming tombs, - We will also go to the Ming tombs,
1172 01:02:53,479 01:02:55,647 and we'll go to the Forbidden City. and we'll go to the Forbidden City.
1173 01:02:55,814 01:02:57,691 And one of the best places is going to be, of course, And one of the best places is going to be, of course,
1174 01:02:57,858 01:03:00,027 the Great Wall of China. the Great Wall of China.
1175 01:03:00,194 01:03:02,988 - Every affair, you know, dinner here, dinner there. - Every affair, you know, dinner here, dinner there.
1176 01:03:03,155 01:03:04,656 Everything was choreographed. Everything was choreographed.
1177 01:03:04,823 01:03:06,241 It was just incredible. It was just incredible.
1178 01:03:06,408 01:03:08,660 - If it's a cold day, she'll wear, you know, - If it's a cold day, she'll wear, you know,
1179 01:03:08,827 01:03:11,580 sort of a shawl like this, but this is a Chinatex silk. sort of a shawl like this, but this is a Chinatex silk.
1180 01:03:11,747 01:03:13,707 - He just had total control. - He just had total control.
1181 01:03:13,874 01:03:15,167 - Hi, Andy. - Hi, Andy. - Hi, Andy. - Hi, Andy.
1182 01:03:15,334 01:03:16,585 - Come on in - Come on in
1183 01:03:16,752 01:03:18,462 and get photographed, Andy. (chuckling) and get photographed, Andy. (chuckling)
1184 01:03:18,629 01:03:22,716 - He asked me one day, "Do you dream of what you're doing?" - He asked me one day, "Do you dream of what you're doing?"
1185 01:03:22,883 01:03:25,886 And, obviously, I was exhausted from going to Studio 54 And, obviously, I was exhausted from going to Studio 54
1186 01:03:26,053 01:03:27,471 and all those parties, and I was like, and all those parties, and I was like,
1187 01:03:27,638 01:03:29,014 no, I haven't dreamt of it. no, I haven't dreamt of it.
1188 01:03:29,181 01:03:31,725 He's like, "You know, Naeem, it'll be amazing. He's like, "You know, Naeem, it'll be amazing.
1189 01:03:31,892 01:03:33,936 "You'll be a great designer when you start dreaming. "You'll be a great designer when you start dreaming.
1190 01:03:34,102 01:03:35,729 "It should come to you in the night, "It should come to you in the night,
1191 01:03:35,896 01:03:37,940 "then you know that you are thinking about it." "then you know that you are thinking about it."
1192 01:03:38,106 01:03:41,527 - Naeem, why don't you show Andy, put the lights on, - Naeem, why don't you show Andy, put the lights on,
1193 01:03:41,693 01:03:43,570 and make 'em sparkle over there, huh? and make 'em sparkle over there, huh?
1194 01:03:43,737 01:03:45,405 Those are your things. Those are your things.
1195 01:03:45,572 01:03:49,993 - So to him, night and day, it was there. - So to him, night and day, it was there.
1196 01:03:50,160 01:03:52,079 - You see, this is only part of them. - You see, this is only part of them.
1197 01:03:52,246 01:03:54,790 We've got another about 15 people, 'cause all-- We've got another about 15 people, 'cause all--
1198 01:03:54,957 01:03:56,416 - There must have been about 30 people. - There must have been about 30 people.
1199 01:03:56,583 01:03:58,210 And I was coordinating it. And I was coordinating it.
1200 01:03:58,377 01:04:01,463 There was 100 pieces of Hartmann luggage. There was 100 pieces of Hartmann luggage.
1201 01:04:03,799 01:04:04,841 - We were going to China. - We were going to China.
1202 01:04:05,008 01:04:06,677 Who got invited to China? Who got invited to China?
1203 01:04:06,843 01:04:08,387 (models cheering and laughing) (models cheering and laughing)
1204 01:04:08,554 01:04:09,930 (upbeat music) (upbeat music)
1205 01:04:15,852 01:04:17,521 - I said to a Chinese executive, - I said to a Chinese executive,
1206 01:04:17,688 01:04:19,231 we're coming with a lot of luggage. we're coming with a lot of luggage.
1207 01:04:19,398 01:04:20,148 Do you have a way of handling it? Do you have a way of handling it?
1208 01:04:20,315 01:04:21,316 He said, "Oh, yes, yes." He said, "Oh, yes, yes."
1209 01:04:21,483 01:04:24,027 And he came with a shopping cart. And he came with a shopping cart.
1210 01:04:24,194 01:04:28,824 They had one shopping cart to move our luggage. (laughing) They had one shopping cart to move our luggage. (laughing)
1211 01:04:33,453 01:04:35,455 - This is the beginning of the world tour of fashions - This is the beginning of the world tour of fashions
1212 01:04:35,622 01:04:36,999 by Halston. by Halston.
1213 01:04:37,165 01:04:37,791 - I think there's a big change. - I think there's a big change.
1214 01:04:37,958 01:04:39,376 - Why? - Why?
1215 01:04:39,543 01:04:42,087 - Well, I think it's America's time, really. - Well, I think it's America's time, really.
1216 01:04:46,133 01:04:47,509 - Here he is, - Here he is,
1217 01:04:47,676 01:04:50,095 sort of an ambassador of American fashion. sort of an ambassador of American fashion.
1218 01:04:50,262 01:04:53,223 He became somewhat like a world figure. He became somewhat like a world figure.
1219 01:04:54,474 01:04:55,017 (camera shutter clicks) (camera shutter clicks)
1220 01:05:08,196 01:05:09,573 (speaking in foreign language) (speaking in foreign language)
1221 01:05:09,740 01:05:12,868 (camera shutter clicking) (camera shutter clicking)
1222 01:05:14,995 01:05:19,458 - But we were basically there to go to the silk factories. - But we were basically there to go to the silk factories.
1223 01:05:19,625 01:05:23,295 - Those people who had done the fabrics - Those people who had done the fabrics
1224 01:05:23,462 01:05:26,548 actually got to see how you could play with the fabric. actually got to see how you could play with the fabric.
1225 01:05:26,715 01:05:29,885 So they were just, like, in awe. So they were just, like, in awe.
1226 01:05:30,052 01:05:31,511 It was wonderful. It was wonderful.
1227 01:05:31,678 01:05:34,681 I was in awe of them being in awe of us. I was in awe of them being in awe of us.
1228 01:05:35,974 01:05:37,100 - That's great. (woman laughing) - That's great. (woman laughing)
1229 01:05:37,267 01:05:39,645 That's great, I love that on you. That's great, I love that on you.
1230 01:05:39,811 01:05:41,104 I love that on you. (crowd applauding) I love that on you. (crowd applauding)
1231 01:05:41,271 01:05:42,439 - It might be a little tight, - It might be a little tight,
1232 01:05:42,606 01:05:44,983 but I consider it a great compliment but I consider it a great compliment
1233 01:05:45,150 01:05:47,527 that she wanted to put it on. that she wanted to put it on.
1234 01:05:47,694 01:05:49,488 - Halston was saying, "No, they wanna modernize. - Halston was saying, "No, they wanna modernize.
1235 01:05:49,655 01:05:51,073 "They wanna modernize here." "They wanna modernize here."
1236 01:05:51,239 01:05:53,241 - Is it that complicated to change the patterns? - Is it that complicated to change the patterns?
1237 01:05:53,408 01:05:55,869 - I think that made the trip for Halston. - I think that made the trip for Halston.
1238 01:05:56,036 01:05:58,997 Because I think he thought he could contribute something Because I think he thought he could contribute something
1239 01:05:59,164 01:06:03,710 to the people of China. (camera shutter clicking) to the people of China. (camera shutter clicking)
1240 01:06:04,503 01:06:05,879 - That was really PR. - That was really PR.
1241 01:06:06,046 01:06:08,465 And he got tremendous amount of publicity. And he got tremendous amount of publicity.
1242 01:06:08,632 01:06:10,175 He was all over. He was all over.
1243 01:06:10,342 01:06:12,135 And when you see the pictures, they were beautiful. And when you see the pictures, they were beautiful.
1244 01:06:12,302 01:06:14,554 I mean, they looked fantastic. I mean, they looked fantastic.
1245 01:06:14,721 01:06:17,224 You know, if you didn't know the back side of the story, You know, if you didn't know the back side of the story,
1246 01:06:17,391 01:06:20,394 it looked like a fantastic trip. it looked like a fantastic trip.
1247 01:06:20,560 01:06:22,854 Halston and the group here, Halston and the group there. Halston and the group here, Halston and the group there.
1248 01:06:23,021 01:06:24,439 They all looked great. They all looked great.
1249 01:06:24,606 01:06:26,274 You know, half of them are really miserable, You know, half of them are really miserable,
1250 01:06:26,441 01:06:29,236 but they all looked terrific. (laughing) but they all looked terrific. (laughing)
1251 01:06:37,994 01:06:41,081 (audio screeching) (audio screeching)
1252 01:06:46,086 01:06:47,379 - Oh, I'm staying. - Oh, I'm staying.
1253 01:06:47,546 01:06:49,548 It's exhausting, and I'm just starting. It's exhausting, and I'm just starting.
1254 01:06:49,715 01:06:53,218 - We had a film crew following us the whole time. - We had a film crew following us the whole time.
1255 01:06:56,179 01:06:59,558 - Every day was directed by Halston. - Every day was directed by Halston.
1256 01:07:00,642 01:07:02,060 - Get out of the camera way. - Get out of the camera way.
1257 01:07:02,227 01:07:03,395 The cameras are here, so you can't be here, The cameras are here, so you can't be here,
1258 01:07:03,562 01:07:04,563 you have to be on the other side. you have to be on the other side.
1259 01:07:04,730 01:07:06,440 - He just wanted total control. - He just wanted total control.
1260 01:07:06,606 01:07:09,443 And it was too much, it became too much. And it was too much, it became too much.
1261 01:07:09,609 01:07:13,113 - I want you all stand up there, on the runway. - I want you all stand up there, on the runway.
1262 01:07:13,280 01:07:14,531 Not in twos and twos. Not in twos and twos.
1263 01:07:14,698 01:07:15,574 You're doing it like a fashion show. You're doing it like a fashion show.
1264 01:07:15,741 01:07:17,617 It looks so dumb. It looks so dumb.
1265 01:07:17,784 01:07:19,619 Go out again. Go out again.
1266 01:07:19,786 01:07:21,496 No, not please, just do it. No, not please, just do it.
1267 01:07:21,663 01:07:23,540 - He was a perfectionist. - He was a perfectionist.
1268 01:07:23,707 01:07:26,710 He had a very rough time in giving up. He had a very rough time in giving up.
1269 01:07:26,877 01:07:29,087 It was an emotional, like, lock-in. It was an emotional, like, lock-in.
1270 01:07:29,254 01:07:30,297 - No, nothing's lined up. - No, nothing's lined up.
1271 01:07:30,464 01:07:31,173 Connie? Connie?
1272 01:07:33,467 01:07:35,969 Can't you people line it up like I've lined it up? Can't you people line it up like I've lined it up?
1273 01:07:36,136 01:07:37,095 I mean, really. I mean, really.
1274 01:07:37,262 01:07:38,597 Look at the boards. Look at the boards.
1275 01:07:38,764 01:07:39,973 It's so dumb. It's so dumb.
1276 01:07:40,140 01:07:42,100 What do you think I did all this for? What do you think I did all this for?
1277 01:07:42,267 01:07:43,852 Well, I hope nobody has to go tonight Well, I hope nobody has to go tonight
1278 01:07:44,019 01:07:46,813 because we've got to go through this. because we've got to go through this.
1279 01:07:48,023 01:07:49,775 - He was a bit of a bully. - He was a bit of a bully.
1280 01:07:49,941 01:07:52,444 You really had to stand up to him, otherwise, you'd be lost. You really had to stand up to him, otherwise, you'd be lost.
1281 01:07:52,611 01:07:54,696 And there wasn't a lot of people who could do that. And there wasn't a lot of people who could do that.
1282 01:07:54,863 01:07:57,657 Very, very few people in our company. Very, very few people in our company.
1283 01:07:58,784 01:08:01,161 - He would snap at you. - He would snap at you.
1284 01:08:01,328 01:08:05,165 And even though we all had the same amount of abuse, And even though we all had the same amount of abuse,
1285 01:08:06,833 01:08:08,376 you took it personally. you took it personally.
1286 01:08:08,543 01:08:11,713 I never, ever got used to being yelled at. I never, ever got used to being yelled at.
1287 01:08:13,757 01:08:16,384 - It just became a different relationship - It just became a different relationship
1288 01:08:16,551 01:08:18,345 and a different company. and a different company.
1289 01:08:22,307 01:08:26,186 - Even with Faye, I mean, she defended that man. - Even with Faye, I mean, she defended that man.
1290 01:08:26,353 01:08:28,438 But he'd just take it all out on her. But he'd just take it all out on her.
1291 01:08:28,605 01:08:32,776 Scream and yell at the top of his lungs, I mean. Scream and yell at the top of his lungs, I mean.
1292 01:08:32,943 01:08:33,985 - Come on, come on, D. D. - Come on, come on, D. D.
1293 01:08:34,152 01:08:35,320 Come on, everybody. Come on, everybody.
1294 01:08:35,487 01:08:37,697 Don't walk out like you're a parade. Don't walk out like you're a parade.
1295 01:08:37,864 01:08:41,701 - But the aura of it all, and being a part of it, - But the aura of it all, and being a part of it,
1296 01:08:41,868 01:08:43,036 kept you hooked. kept you hooked.
1297 01:08:44,162 01:08:45,580 You know, eventually, You know, eventually,
1298 01:08:45,747 01:08:48,917 he had all of us wear black at the office. he had all of us wear black at the office.
1299 01:08:50,252 01:08:53,713 He wanted us to be a backdrop to the clothes. He wanted us to be a backdrop to the clothes.
1300 01:08:55,507 01:08:59,135 And everything, to him, was a PR event. And everything, to him, was a PR event.
1301 01:08:59,302 01:09:00,804 We were all PR events. We were all PR events.
1302 01:09:00,971 01:09:07,143 It was the stage set that was us. It was the stage set that was us.
1303 01:09:08,270 01:09:09,145 - Margaret. - Margaret.
1304 01:09:09,312 01:09:11,064 (Margaret laughing) (Margaret laughing)
1305 01:09:11,231 01:09:13,358 - What we're looking for is the illusion of art. - What we're looking for is the illusion of art.
1306 01:09:13,525 01:09:14,693 - Can I give you a little bit of highlight there? - Can I give you a little bit of highlight there?
1307 01:09:14,860 01:09:16,069 That's very good. That's very good.
1308 01:09:18,280 01:09:21,992 - You see, our mistake, including Halston, - You see, our mistake, including Halston,
1309 01:09:22,158 01:09:24,744 is to take our name too seriously. is to take our name too seriously.
1310 01:09:26,621 01:09:27,873 I mean, for me. I mean, for me.
1311 01:09:28,039 01:09:29,916 I was a jewelry designer. I was a jewelry designer.
1312 01:09:31,042 01:09:32,878 I was a good jewelry designer. I was a good jewelry designer.
1313 01:09:33,044 01:09:35,463 I dedicate all my time to it. I dedicate all my time to it.
1314 01:09:57,944 01:10:03,700 - We had fights because he was so much out of it, you know. - We had fights because he was so much out of it, you know.
1315 01:10:03,867 01:10:05,577 Because I'm vulgar. Because I'm vulgar.
1316 01:10:05,744 01:10:07,621 Not vulgar, but, you know, I cannot withstand all the time, Not vulgar, but, you know, I cannot withstand all the time,
1317 01:10:07,787 01:10:11,458 thinking that the pencil has to be like that, impossible. thinking that the pencil has to be like that, impossible.
1318 01:10:11,625 01:10:12,292 (clapperboard snapping) (clapperboard snapping)
1319 01:10:24,012 01:10:30,810 (ominous music) (ominous music)
1320 01:10:35,857 01:10:42,322 - He became a real loner. - He became a real loner.
1321 01:10:47,410 01:10:49,204 - And did you see the Elizabeth cover? - And did you see the Elizabeth cover?
1322 01:10:49,371 01:10:50,789 - Oh, it's so-- - Oh, that's beautiful. - Oh, it's so-- - Oh, that's beautiful.
1323 01:10:50,956 01:10:52,290 - Isn't that wonderful? - I love it for her. - Isn't that wonderful? - I love it for her.
1324 01:10:52,457 01:10:53,833 - She looks great. - She looks really great. - She looks great. - She looks really great.
1325 01:10:54,000 01:10:55,377 - I love the picture of her inside. - I love the picture of her inside.
1326 01:10:55,543 01:10:56,336 - It's good. - It's good.
1327 01:10:59,172 01:11:00,507 - Oh, it looks great. - Oh, it looks great.
1328 01:11:00,674 01:11:02,092 - Do you like that? - Mm-hmm, I love it. - Do you like that? - Mm-hmm, I love it.
1329 01:11:02,258 01:11:03,843 - Yeah, I think Elizabeth will like that. - Yeah, I think Elizabeth will like that.
1330 01:11:04,010 01:11:05,595 - Color is fabulous. - Color is fabulous.
1331 01:11:05,762 01:11:07,722 Fabulous, it looks good, uh-huh. Fabulous, it looks good, uh-huh.
1332 01:11:07,889 01:11:11,351 - With the cover of Harper's Bazaar, I just love it on her. - With the cover of Harper's Bazaar, I just love it on her.
1333 01:11:11,518 01:11:12,602 - And the truth of the matter is - And the truth of the matter is
1334 01:11:12,769 01:11:14,604 that his business was slowing down. that his business was slowing down.
1335 01:11:14,771 01:11:18,024 He peaked, and other names were showing up. He peaked, and other names were showing up.
1336 01:11:20,068 01:11:21,194 - Which brings us to Calvins, - Which brings us to Calvins,
1337 01:11:21,361 01:11:23,697 and the survival of the fittest. and the survival of the fittest.
1338 01:11:23,863 01:11:26,449 - Good morning, Calvin Klein, I presume. - Good morning, Calvin Klein, I presume.
1339 01:11:26,616 01:11:28,034 Is that your name? Is that your name?
1340 01:11:30,203 01:11:34,499 - Perry Ellis is a new name in fashion. - Perry Ellis is a new name in fashion.
1341 01:11:39,587 01:11:43,925 - But Halston was never one to fall behind. - But Halston was never one to fall behind.
1342 01:11:47,345 01:11:49,681 - I am pleased to announce an association - I am pleased to announce an association
1343 01:11:49,848 01:11:53,143 between Halston Enterprises and JCPenney. between Halston Enterprises and JCPenney.
1344 01:11:53,309 01:11:57,564 Today, we have signed $1 billion retail sales agreement. Today, we have signed $1 billion retail sales agreement.
1345 01:11:57,731 01:12:00,233 - It was a license over five years. - It was a license over five years.
1346 01:12:00,400 01:12:03,695 The largest designer deal that had ever been made. The largest designer deal that had ever been made.
1347 01:12:03,862 01:12:05,780 Enough money to make anyone, even Norton Simon, Enough money to make anyone, even Norton Simon,
1348 01:12:05,947 01:12:07,657 sit up and take notice. sit up and take notice.
1349 01:12:09,242 01:12:12,328 - I begged him, I begged him not to do the Penney thing. - I begged him, I begged him not to do the Penney thing.
1350 01:12:12,495 01:12:14,205 This is gonna kill us. This is gonna kill us.
1351 01:12:14,372 01:12:16,207 And he kept saying, "No, no, no, no, no. And he kept saying, "No, no, no, no, no.
1352 01:12:16,374 01:12:19,002 "I wanna dress everybody in America." "I wanna dress everybody in America."
1353 01:12:21,046 01:12:22,756 - It sounded like a good deal to me, - It sounded like a good deal to me,
1354 01:12:22,922 01:12:26,593 to create things for people who couldn't afford his, yes. to create things for people who couldn't afford his, yes.
1355 01:12:26,760 01:12:28,219 - Well, you know, strangely enough, - Well, you know, strangely enough,
1356 01:12:28,386 01:12:30,388 when I was a kid, I always shopped at Penney's. when I was a kid, I always shopped at Penney's.
1357 01:12:30,555 01:12:33,141 My mother always took me to Penney's to buy all the clothes My mother always took me to Penney's to buy all the clothes
1358 01:12:33,308 01:12:35,018 that we wore to school and everything else. that we wore to school and everything else.
1359 01:12:35,185 01:12:37,353 And it's true, I come from Des Moines, Iowa. And it's true, I come from Des Moines, Iowa.
1360 01:12:37,520 01:12:39,564 And my mother being a practical Midwestern lady, And my mother being a practical Midwestern lady,
1361 01:12:39,731 01:12:41,483 always took us there. always took us there.
1362 01:12:41,649 01:12:44,360 - In one highly-publicized stroke of the pen, - In one highly-publicized stroke of the pen,
1363 01:12:44,527 01:12:47,030 Halston moved from class to mass. Halston moved from class to mass.
1364 01:12:47,197 01:12:48,615 The reaction of the fashion world The reaction of the fashion world
1365 01:12:48,782 01:12:50,950 ranged from shock to outrage. ranged from shock to outrage.
1366 01:12:52,202 01:12:53,703 - JCPenney? - JCPenney?
1367 01:12:53,870 01:12:55,163 - Yes, JCPenney, - Yes, JCPenney,
1368 01:12:55,330 01:12:57,290 that nationwide middle-class retailer that nationwide middle-class retailer
1369 01:12:57,457 01:12:59,375 that offers clothes right off the rack, that offers clothes right off the rack,
1370 01:12:59,542 01:13:01,920 has landed a very big designer. has landed a very big designer.
1371 01:13:02,087 01:13:02,962 - Would you expect to find a designer - Would you expect to find a designer
1372 01:13:03,129 01:13:04,547 like Halston in here? like Halston in here?
1373 01:13:04,714 01:13:07,133 - No, not Halston in JCPenney. - No, not Halston in JCPenney.
1374 01:13:07,300 01:13:08,718 - Obviously, we're very excited about it. - Obviously, we're very excited about it.
1375 01:13:08,885 01:13:11,221 We think it is a catch. We think it is a catch.
1376 01:13:11,387 01:13:13,473 - JCPenney is trying to trade up. - JCPenney is trying to trade up.
1377 01:13:13,640 01:13:15,266 But they're not quite gonna change their name But they're not quite gonna change their name
1378 01:13:15,433 01:13:17,477 to JCPeigner or JCPeignoir. to JCPeigner or JCPeignoir.
1379 01:13:19,145 01:13:20,814 - I believe in our country, and I like America, - I believe in our country, and I like America,
1380 01:13:20,980 01:13:22,273 and I like Americans to look good. and I like Americans to look good.
1381 01:13:22,440 01:13:23,691 And I'm an American designer, And I'm an American designer,
1382 01:13:23,858 01:13:25,318 and I love the opportunity to do it. and I love the opportunity to do it.
1383 01:13:25,485 01:13:27,112 - It's a first - It's a first
1384 01:13:27,278 01:13:28,822 between a department store chain and a major designer, between a department store chain and a major designer,
1385 01:13:28,988 01:13:30,657 with the clothes expected to be on the racks with the clothes expected to be on the racks
1386 01:13:30,824 01:13:32,534 in the fall of '83. in the fall of '83.
1387 01:13:32,700 01:13:35,537 - That makes a very good mix from both catalog and retail. - That makes a very good mix from both catalog and retail.
1388 01:13:35,703 01:13:37,622 - This is called Halston III. - This is called Halston III.
1389 01:13:37,789 01:13:39,457 - It's called Halston III. - Why? - It's called Halston III. - Why?
1390 01:13:39,624 01:13:42,460 - Well, it's really the third stage of my career. - Well, it's really the third stage of my career.
1391 01:13:42,627 01:13:44,170 The first being in the millinery business, The first being in the millinery business,
1392 01:13:44,337 01:13:45,713 and then in fancy clothes and then in fancy clothes
1393 01:13:45,880 01:13:47,298 and dressing all the stars and things. and dressing all the stars and things.
1394 01:13:47,465 01:13:51,928 And now, a larger public, dressing America, really. And now, a larger public, dressing America, really.
1395 01:13:52,095 01:13:52,971 - He said he would design it, - He said he would design it,
1396 01:13:53,138 01:13:54,556 and he designed it. and he designed it.
1397 01:13:54,722 01:13:56,599 And everybody, of course, wanted a piece of it. And everybody, of course, wanted a piece of it.
1398 01:13:56,766 01:14:00,478 You know, the guy who made scarves wanted Halston scarves. You know, the guy who made scarves wanted Halston scarves.
1399 01:14:00,645 01:14:02,355 The guy who made shoes wanted Halston shoes. The guy who made shoes wanted Halston shoes.
1400 01:14:02,522 01:14:04,524 All that was going on. All that was going on.
1401 01:14:04,691 01:14:08,361 - JCPenney is an organization that is so vast, - JCPenney is an organization that is so vast,
1402 01:14:08,528 01:14:10,905 it's not like one person oversees the whole thing. it's not like one person oversees the whole thing.
1403 01:14:11,072 01:14:15,076 And so, talk about cultures, different cultures completely. And so, talk about cultures, different cultures completely.
1404 01:14:15,243 01:14:17,662 - We asked Penney executives to sum up the Halston III line - We asked Penney executives to sum up the Halston III line
1405 01:14:17,829 01:14:19,247 in one word. in one word.
1406 01:14:19,414 01:14:20,039 - Profit. - Profit.
1407 01:14:20,206 01:14:21,082 - Volume. - Volume.
1408 01:14:21,249 01:14:23,209 - It's what America wants. - It's what America wants.
1409 01:14:26,671 01:14:27,922 - Things became so tense - Things became so tense
1410 01:14:28,089 01:14:29,841 that Norton Simon brought in consultants that Norton Simon brought in consultants
1411 01:14:30,008 01:14:34,053 to fix the relationship. to fix the relationship.
1412 01:14:39,100 01:14:40,518 - When I got involved in it and everything, - When I got involved in it and everything,
1413 01:14:40,685 01:14:43,354 I thought, oh, boy, we're really in for it, Billie. I thought, oh, boy, we're really in for it, Billie.
1414 01:14:43,521 01:14:45,773 I mean, shit, this is a mother lode. I mean, shit, this is a mother lode.
1415 01:14:45,940 01:14:48,401 These people really need help. These people really need help.
1416 01:14:48,568 01:14:50,486 Some sketches they couldn't read. Some sketches they couldn't read.
1417 01:14:50,653 01:14:53,114 Fabrics they didn't know anything about. Fabrics they didn't know anything about.
1418 01:14:53,281 01:14:54,782 Everybody would pat me on the head and say, Everybody would pat me on the head and say,
1419 01:14:54,949 01:14:57,785 "Oh, listen, just leave it to us, we'll work it out. "Oh, listen, just leave it to us, we'll work it out.
1420 01:14:57,952 01:14:59,162 "You just be artistical." "You just be artistical."
1421 01:14:59,329 01:15:00,747 (woman laughing) (woman laughing)
1422 01:15:00,914 01:15:03,124 Well, no, no way. Well, no, no way.
1423 01:15:03,291 01:15:05,710 The only way it'll work, let me tell you, listen to daddy. The only way it'll work, let me tell you, listen to daddy.
1424 01:15:05,877 01:15:07,086 - Yes, I'm listening. - Yes, I'm listening.
1425 01:15:07,253 01:15:08,129 - The only way it'll work is - The only way it'll work is
1426 01:15:08,296 01:15:09,589 to make the goddamn dress, to make the goddamn dress,
1427 01:15:09,756 01:15:11,174 which, we're making the goddamn dress. which, we're making the goddamn dress.
1428 01:15:11,341 01:15:13,009 And then they go and look at the goddamn dress, And then they go and look at the goddamn dress,
1429 01:15:13,176 01:15:14,761 they'll see the point of difference. they'll see the point of difference.
1430 01:15:14,928 01:15:16,304 I'm just trying to make it work. I'm just trying to make it work.
1431 01:15:16,471 01:15:17,722 - I know that. - I know that.
1432 01:15:17,889 01:15:20,058 I know that, it was-- - Desperately. I know that, it was-- - Desperately.
1433 01:15:23,770 01:15:25,355 - All the plants, he's got to understand - All the plants, he's got to understand
1434 01:15:25,521 01:15:27,565 that we've got to commit, like, eight months in advance. that we've got to commit, like, eight months in advance.
1435 01:15:27,732 01:15:29,275 We need to get the approvals and the go-aheads We need to get the approvals and the go-aheads
1436 01:15:29,442 01:15:30,610 and the concepts. and the concepts.
1437 01:15:30,777 01:15:32,528 But he's so involved with everything, But he's so involved with everything,
1438 01:15:32,695 01:15:34,280 that everything take, that everything take,
1439 01:15:34,447 01:15:37,450 on the label, the label took him months. on the label, the label took him months.
1440 01:15:37,617 01:15:40,954 (vibrant electronic music) (vibrant electronic music)
1441 01:15:42,372 01:15:45,166 - America has heard about it. - America has heard about it.
1442 01:15:45,333 01:15:48,044 And we've all dreamt about it. And we've all dreamt about it.
1443 01:15:48,211 01:15:52,006 And now, after months of anticipation, it's here. And now, after months of anticipation, it's here.
1444 01:15:53,925 01:15:56,678 The Halston III Collection for 1983. The Halston III Collection for 1983.
1445 01:15:59,681 01:16:01,391 - This is an experiment, you know? - This is an experiment, you know?
1446 01:16:01,557 01:16:03,977 And it could succeed, it could not succeed. And it could succeed, it could not succeed.
1447 01:16:04,143 01:16:06,771 (exciting music) (exciting music)
1448 01:16:11,484 01:16:12,902 - Quite a show. - Quite a show.
1449 01:16:13,069 01:16:16,364 500 of the fashionables sat in a huge room, 500 of the fashionables sat in a huge room,
1450 01:16:16,531 01:16:20,326 dominated by a 60-foot whale hanging down from the ceiling. dominated by a 60-foot whale hanging down from the ceiling.
1451 01:16:20,493 01:16:24,247 People didn't know where to cry bravo or thar she blows. People didn't know where to cry bravo or thar she blows.
1452 01:16:24,414 01:16:28,293 - This has been probably the most challenging and gratifying - This has been probably the most challenging and gratifying
1453 01:16:28,459 01:16:30,712 fashion exercise in my career. fashion exercise in my career.
1454 01:16:33,464 01:16:36,301 - He did really give a lot to it. - He did really give a lot to it.
1455 01:16:36,467 01:16:38,261 I mean, he was really taking it seriously. I mean, he was really taking it seriously.
1456 01:16:38,428 01:16:41,139 He did a really well-conceived line. He did a really well-conceived line.
1457 01:16:42,682 01:16:45,518 - Gosh, we had about 26 models in there. - Gosh, we had about 26 models in there.
1458 01:16:45,685 01:16:46,853 The clothes looked spectacular. The clothes looked spectacular.
1459 01:16:47,020 01:16:48,604 It was perfect for that audience. It was perfect for that audience.
1460 01:16:48,771 01:16:52,608 And everybody looked fabulous, and very good reviews. And everybody looked fabulous, and very good reviews.
1461 01:16:52,775 01:16:56,154 And the show was very successful, very. And the show was very successful, very.
1462 01:16:56,321 01:16:58,823 (audience applauding) (audience applauding)
1463 01:16:58,990 01:17:00,241 - I'm telling him how great his show was. - I'm telling him how great his show was.
1464 01:17:00,408 01:17:01,617 And I knew he was behind it. And I knew he was behind it.
1465 01:17:01,784 01:17:03,202 - I love your board of directors, - I love your board of directors,
1466 01:17:03,369 01:17:05,663 wanting to go out and buy it right away. (laughing) wanting to go out and buy it right away. (laughing)
1467 01:17:05,830 01:17:07,165 That's great. That's great.
1468 01:17:07,332 01:17:08,458 - Well, we'll have a lot more great showings. - Well, we'll have a lot more great showings.
1469 01:17:08,624 01:17:09,625 - You know, I think so. - You know, I think so.
1470 01:17:09,792 01:17:10,960 - It's the first of many to come. - It's the first of many to come.
1471 01:17:11,127 01:17:12,170 - No, I'm very proud of it. - No, I'm very proud of it.
1472 01:17:12,337 01:17:13,129 It's wonderful, a wonderful thing. It's wonderful, a wonderful thing.
1473 01:17:13,296 01:17:18,217 (audience applauding) (audience applauding)
1474 01:17:23,306 01:17:24,557 - They had a big flag out at the museum - They had a big flag out at the museum
1475 01:17:24,724 01:17:26,434 when they had the show. when they had the show.
1476 01:17:26,601 01:17:29,354 And Ira Neimark, who was the President of Bergdorf-Goodman, And Ira Neimark, who was the President of Bergdorf-Goodman,
1477 01:17:29,520 01:17:31,397 and Jackie, his wife, were coming home from dinner, and Jackie, his wife, were coming home from dinner,
1478 01:17:31,564 01:17:33,483 and they saw this Halston flag. and they saw this Halston flag.
1479 01:17:33,649 01:17:35,568 He called his senior merchandising He called his senior merchandising
1480 01:17:35,735 01:17:36,903 manager that night manager that night
1481 01:17:37,070 01:17:41,074 at home, and she called me at home at home, and she called me at home
1482 01:17:42,033 01:17:45,036 and said he wants everything out of the store. and said he wants everything out of the store.
1483 01:17:45,203 01:17:46,537 The fragrance, the ready-to-wear, everything. The fragrance, the ready-to-wear, everything.
1484 01:17:46,704 01:17:48,581 He doesn't want anything to do with Halston. He doesn't want anything to do with Halston.
1485 01:17:48,748 01:17:51,125 (ominous music) (ominous music)
1486 01:17:52,794 01:17:54,712 - Didn't you run into some trouble with Bergdorf, - Didn't you run into some trouble with Bergdorf,
1487 01:17:54,879 01:17:55,713 who was the first place you had a boutique? who was the first place you had a boutique?
1488 01:17:55,880 01:17:57,215 - Oh, not at all. - Oh, not at all.
1489 01:17:57,382 01:17:58,883 No, I don't think so. No, I don't think so.
1490 01:17:59,050 01:18:00,593 You know, Bergdorf, you know, I wish them well. You know, Bergdorf, you know, I wish them well.
1491 01:18:00,760 01:18:02,512 I started my career at Bergdorf I started my career at Bergdorf
1492 01:18:02,678 01:18:04,514 and helped to make Bergdorf famous. and helped to make Bergdorf famous.
1493 01:18:04,680 01:18:06,099 But Bergdorf is a rather small account But Bergdorf is a rather small account
1494 01:18:06,265 01:18:09,143 compared to all America. compared to all America.
1495 01:18:09,310 01:18:10,645 - He was very upset. - He was very upset.
1496 01:18:10,812 01:18:12,397 He didn't understand it. He didn't understand it.
1497 01:18:12,563 01:18:15,441 Also, shocked over the fact that Also, shocked over the fact that
1498 01:18:15,608 01:18:17,110 that could happen that quickly. that could happen that quickly.
1499 01:18:17,276 01:18:18,653 - Did Bergdorf-Goodman drop your line - Did Bergdorf-Goodman drop your line
1500 01:18:18,820 01:18:21,406 because you went to Penney's? because you went to Penney's?
1501 01:18:21,572 01:18:23,449 - They, I think, felt threatened. - They, I think, felt threatened.
1502 01:18:23,616 01:18:25,993 But I think there's a way out of it. But I think there's a way out of it.
1503 01:18:26,160 01:18:28,371 - Your connection to Bergdorf is a very important, - Your connection to Bergdorf is a very important,
1504 01:18:28,538 01:18:29,455 in terms of, wasn't that the first to give you-- in terms of, wasn't that the first to give you--
1505 01:18:29,622 01:18:31,457 - I helped to make Bergdorf. - I helped to make Bergdorf.
1506 01:18:31,624 01:18:33,042 - He stepped out of the norm. - He stepped out of the norm.
1507 01:18:33,209 01:18:37,213 And people like their boundaries And people like their boundaries
1508 01:18:37,380 01:18:40,800 that are set between them and those. that are set between them and those.
1509 01:18:40,967 01:18:43,511 - The fancy-shmancy guys are saying - The fancy-shmancy guys are saying
1510 01:18:43,678 01:18:47,598 that undermines your elegant, chic hoi polloi. that undermines your elegant, chic hoi polloi.
1511 01:18:47,765 01:18:48,933 - Oh, it doesn't. - Oh, it doesn't.
1512 01:18:49,100 01:18:50,601 My business is very good. My business is very good.
1513 01:18:50,768 01:18:52,353 You know, if one store more or less doesn't like it, You know, if one store more or less doesn't like it,
1514 01:18:52,520 01:18:54,647 I mean, you know, I'm sorry. I mean, you know, I'm sorry.
1515 01:18:54,814 01:18:56,774 - Yeah, but you can't-- - I tried my best. - Yeah, but you can't-- - I tried my best.
1516 01:18:56,941 01:18:59,235 - And then I started getting all kinds of calls - And then I started getting all kinds of calls
1517 01:18:59,402 01:19:02,488 from presidents of the stores all over the United States, from presidents of the stores all over the United States,
1518 01:19:02,655 01:19:06,534 and merchandising managers, cutting back on orders. and merchandising managers, cutting back on orders.
1519 01:19:09,203 01:19:11,289 It was pure hell after that. It was pure hell after that.
1520 01:19:11,456 01:19:14,876 He realized that he had done the wrong thing. He realized that he had done the wrong thing.
1521 01:19:16,961 01:19:19,881 - You know, the press could be mean. - You know, the press could be mean.
1522 01:19:20,047 01:19:22,133 They were not supporting him. They were not supporting him.
1523 01:19:22,300 01:19:23,968 That seemed odd to me. That seemed odd to me.
1524 01:19:25,261 01:19:27,847 It just seemed like a gang. It just seemed like a gang.
1525 01:19:28,014 01:19:29,515 One person misbehaves, One person misbehaves,
1526 01:19:29,682 01:19:33,186 and then everybody's bullying this one person. and then everybody's bullying this one person.
1527 01:19:35,563 01:19:38,858 - Clearly, the purpose was to strengthen Penney's position - Clearly, the purpose was to strengthen Penney's position
1528 01:19:39,025 01:19:41,819 as a supplier of fashionable merchandise. as a supplier of fashionable merchandise.
1529 01:19:41,986 01:19:43,446 - Good. - Good.
1530 01:19:43,613 01:19:45,072 - Okay, fine, that's a diplomatic answer. - Okay, fine, that's a diplomatic answer.
1531 01:19:45,239 01:19:46,157 - I guess you got what you need. - I guess you got what you need.
1532 01:19:46,324 01:19:47,325 - Oh, absolutely. - Oh, absolutely.
1533 01:19:47,492 01:19:48,784 - You can cut out and chop away - You can cut out and chop away
1534 01:19:48,951 01:19:50,703 and do what you need, okay. - Oh, no-- and do what you need, okay. - Oh, no--
1535 01:19:52,246 01:19:55,666 - The JCPenney thing became so enormous a problem, - The JCPenney thing became so enormous a problem,
1536 01:19:55,833 01:19:59,378 that the distance between us became too great. that the distance between us became too great.
1537 01:20:00,630 01:20:02,507 He wanted me to leave, He wanted me to leave,
1538 01:20:02,673 01:20:04,383 but he didn't want to say he wanted me to leave. but he didn't want to say he wanted me to leave.
1539 01:20:04,550 01:20:08,804 He wanted to make things so unpleasant that I would leave. He wanted to make things so unpleasant that I would leave.
1540 01:20:10,181 01:20:12,642 I pushed him too hard. I pushed him too hard.
1541 01:20:12,808 01:20:15,728 I pushed too many licenses down on him. I pushed too many licenses down on him.
1542 01:20:18,147 01:20:20,733 (dramatic music) (dramatic music)
1543 01:20:23,736 01:20:27,156 - Things got out of control, and I started not to feel well. - Things got out of control, and I started not to feel well.
1544 01:20:27,323 01:20:29,700 So I went to the doctor, and he said, So I went to the doctor, and he said,
1545 01:20:29,867 01:20:32,036 "You have the beginning of an ulcer." "You have the beginning of an ulcer."
1546 01:20:32,203 01:20:36,374 And it was from the stress. And it was from the stress.
1547 01:20:41,420 01:20:45,049 I just got to the point where I couldn't deal with it. I just got to the point where I couldn't deal with it.
1548 01:20:45,216 01:20:46,551 And had to leave. And had to leave.
1549 01:20:46,717 01:20:47,927 I hated to leave. I hated to leave.
1550 01:20:48,094 01:20:52,974 I loved Halston, but I had to get out. I loved Halston, but I had to get out.
1551 01:20:58,020 01:21:00,690 - I saw him frustrated, and like, - I saw him frustrated, and like,
1552 01:21:00,856 01:21:04,485 "How can this thing come into my life?" "How can this thing come into my life?"
1553 01:21:04,652 01:21:08,281 And I said, well, maybe you have to drop the whole thing And I said, well, maybe you have to drop the whole thing
1554 01:21:08,447 01:21:12,118 and come with me, and get outta here. and come with me, and get outta here.
1555 01:21:12,285 01:21:15,538 We'll just get a boat, you'll take a break. We'll just get a boat, you'll take a break.
1556 01:21:17,582 01:21:23,462 And he'd say, "I can't go." (sniffles) And he'd say, "I can't go." (sniffles)
1557 01:21:28,593 01:21:31,178 - They say that when it rains, it pours. - They say that when it rains, it pours.
1558 01:21:31,345 01:21:33,889 Well, a perfect storm was about to happen Well, a perfect storm was about to happen
1559 01:21:34,056 01:21:36,183 when his good friend David Mahoney when his good friend David Mahoney
1560 01:21:36,350 01:21:38,686 threw him into the belly of the whale. threw him into the belly of the whale.
1561 01:21:38,853 01:21:42,565 (audio screeching) (audio screeching)
1562 01:21:42,732 01:21:45,067 - The day before the JCPenney show, - The day before the JCPenney show,
1563 01:21:45,234 01:21:47,903 David made an offer to buy Norton Simon. David made an offer to buy Norton Simon.
1564 01:21:48,070 01:21:50,239 (gentle instrumental music) (gentle instrumental music)
1565 01:21:50,406 01:21:52,450 He was gonna take it private, He was gonna take it private,
1566 01:21:52,617 01:21:56,037 and he could make an awful lot of money doing that. and he could make an awful lot of money doing that.
1567 01:21:56,203 01:21:57,788 - Takeover mania in America. - Takeover mania in America.
1568 01:21:57,955 01:22:00,041 Huge corporations are gobbling one another Huge corporations are gobbling one another
1569 01:22:00,207 01:22:02,501 at a rate unmatched in history. at a rate unmatched in history.
1570 01:22:02,668 01:22:04,545 - But Esmark came along out of the blue. - But Esmark came along out of the blue.
1571 01:22:04,712 01:22:06,213 (bell ringing) (bell ringing)
1572 01:22:06,380 01:22:08,466 They made an outside bid that was better than David's They made an outside bid that was better than David's
1573 01:22:08,633 01:22:10,009 and won the battle. and won the battle.
1574 01:22:13,888 01:22:15,139 - I don't know how Halston felt, - I don't know how Halston felt,
1575 01:22:15,306 01:22:17,224 because after Norton Simon sold him, because after Norton Simon sold him,
1576 01:22:17,391 01:22:19,810 David Mahoney was, you know, not there. David Mahoney was, you know, not there.
1577 01:22:19,977 01:22:22,396 - You cannot expect other people - You cannot expect other people
1578 01:22:22,563 01:22:24,649 to be interested in your welfare all the time. to be interested in your welfare all the time.
1579 01:22:24,815 01:22:27,026 It's unfair, and it's illogical. It's unfair, and it's illogical.
1580 01:22:27,193 01:22:28,819 So therefore, you'd better take care of your own instincts So therefore, you'd better take care of your own instincts
1581 01:22:28,986 01:22:30,196 and your own efforts. and your own efforts.
1582 01:22:30,363 01:22:31,489 - Dog eat dog, look out for yourself, - Dog eat dog, look out for yourself,
1583 01:22:31,656 01:22:33,324 or is that what you mean? or is that what you mean?
1584 01:22:33,491 01:22:34,617 - Well, no, I really don't mean that, - Well, no, I really don't mean that,
1585 01:22:34,784 01:22:37,078 although that's part of it, Jane. although that's part of it, Jane.
1586 01:22:37,244 01:22:38,663 - You know how business is. - You know how business is.
1587 01:22:38,829 01:22:40,998 You know how money is, you know how that is. You know how money is, you know how that is.
1588 01:22:41,165 01:22:43,376 It's the pollution in the air. It's the pollution in the air.
1589 01:22:45,086 01:22:48,381 - Esmark wasn't really in the fashion business. - Esmark wasn't really in the fashion business.
1590 01:22:48,547 01:22:50,174 Except for maybe. Except for maybe.
1591 01:22:50,341 01:22:53,135 - Feeling smashing, or the height of fashion? - Feeling smashing, or the height of fashion?
1592 01:22:53,302 01:22:55,388 Playtex once and you'll Playtex for keeps. Playtex once and you'll Playtex for keeps.
1593 01:22:55,554 01:22:57,098 For comfort to please you. For comfort to please you.
1594 01:22:57,264 01:23:00,267 - So Halston was put under Joel Smilow, - So Halston was put under Joel Smilow,
1595 01:23:00,434 01:23:02,019 one of America's toughest bosses, one of America's toughest bosses,
1596 01:23:02,186 01:23:04,522 according to Fortune Magazine. according to Fortune Magazine.
1597 01:23:04,689 01:23:06,982 - This is a little teeny company. - This is a little teeny company.
1598 01:23:07,149 01:23:09,318 You know, sort of a flyspeck. You know, sort of a flyspeck.
1599 01:23:09,485 01:23:11,362 And so, think of it, And so, think of it,
1600 01:23:11,529 01:23:15,408 if supposing you owned the New York Yankees, if supposing you owned the New York Yankees,
1601 01:23:15,574 01:23:18,577 and you also owned a class D farm's team and you also owned a class D farm's team
1602 01:23:20,246 01:23:22,748 in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania.
1603 01:23:22,915 01:23:24,333 How much time would you spend How much time would you spend
1604 01:23:24,500 01:23:26,585 with your Bethlehem, Pennsylvania farm team? with your Bethlehem, Pennsylvania farm team?
1605 01:23:26,752 01:23:31,757 (jazz noir music) (jazz noir music)
1606 01:23:36,762 01:23:40,933 - In 1983, my uncle asked me to come to dinner - In 1983, my uncle asked me to come to dinner
1607 01:23:41,100 01:23:42,727 while I was here. while I was here.
1608 01:23:42,893 01:23:46,313 I had recently graduated from college. I had recently graduated from college.
1609 01:23:46,480 01:23:48,065 I was very green. I was very green.
1610 01:23:48,232 01:23:49,900 And he dropped the bomb on me. And he dropped the bomb on me.
1611 01:23:50,067 01:23:52,695 He said, "Well, would you like to work for me?" He said, "Well, would you like to work for me?"
1612 01:23:52,862 01:23:56,741 And I just sort of did a somersault and said, And I just sort of did a somersault and said,
1613 01:23:56,907 01:23:58,075 okay, I would love to work for you. okay, I would love to work for you.
1614 01:23:58,242 01:23:59,452 When do I start? When do I start?
1615 01:24:02,121 01:24:04,498 I think maybe he wanted to bring in a family member I think maybe he wanted to bring in a family member
1616 01:24:04,665 01:24:06,667 who he could trust 100%. who he could trust 100%.
1617 01:24:08,419 01:24:10,629 There was a new manager there from Esmark There was a new manager there from Esmark
1618 01:24:10,796 01:24:12,298 who had just come on. who had just come on.
1619 01:24:13,466 01:24:16,844 Do I have to say his name? (chuckles) Do I have to say his name? (chuckles)
1620 01:24:17,011 01:24:17,511 - You don't wanna say his name? - You don't wanna say his name?
1621 01:24:17,678 01:24:18,429 - No. - No.
1622 01:24:18,596 01:24:21,390 (jazz noir music) (jazz noir music)
1623 01:24:45,623 01:24:49,585 - My first day at Halston was interesting. - My first day at Halston was interesting.
1624 01:24:49,752 01:24:52,588 I never seen anything quite like it. I never seen anything quite like it.
1625 01:24:52,755 01:24:55,382 Here, I'm the kid from Brooklyn, right? Here, I'm the kid from Brooklyn, right?
1626 01:24:55,549 01:24:59,178 Yet got into this world of Halston's Yet got into this world of Halston's
1627 01:24:59,345 01:25:01,514 castle, Olympic Tower. castle, Olympic Tower.
1628 01:25:08,687 01:25:10,064 Look, Ma, I'm on television. Look, Ma, I'm on television.
1629 01:25:10,231 01:25:11,941 - It's about time. - It's about time.
1630 01:25:12,107 01:25:16,070 - There was a kind of a pinkie throw, everywhere you went. - There was a kind of a pinkie throw, everywhere you went.
1631 01:25:18,322 01:25:22,326 Halston was a little bit Hollywood, in my parlance. Halston was a little bit Hollywood, in my parlance.
1632 01:25:23,828 01:25:26,288 But I thought we hit it off. But I thought we hit it off.
1633 01:25:26,455 01:25:29,250 (guests chattering) (guests chattering)
1634 01:25:32,753 01:25:35,548 - You'd never think Carl ever be with Halston. - You'd never think Carl ever be with Halston.
1635 01:25:35,714 01:25:39,176 I mean, physically, mentally, anything. I mean, physically, mentally, anything.
1636 01:25:39,343 01:25:42,972 But when Carl came in, in a very strange way, But when Carl came in, in a very strange way,
1637 01:25:43,138 01:25:45,641 Halston liked him a lot. Halston liked him a lot.
1638 01:25:45,808 01:25:47,184 - He kept saying, - He kept saying,
1639 01:25:47,351 01:25:49,603 "I've never had the right kind of management. "I've never had the right kind of management.
1640 01:25:49,770 01:25:51,981 "And that's part of our problem." "And that's part of our problem."
1641 01:25:52,147 01:25:54,441 And he gives me a kiss on the forehead. And he gives me a kiss on the forehead.
1642 01:25:54,608 01:25:55,860 It was wonderful. It was wonderful.
1643 01:25:56,026 01:25:58,654 And then he says, "You're now the king." And then he says, "You're now the king."
1644 01:25:58,821 01:26:01,448 And he made, with his own hands, And he made, with his own hands,
1645 01:26:01,615 01:26:04,577 the crown that he gave me. the crown that he gave me.
1646 01:26:04,743 01:26:07,913 (jazz noir music) (jazz noir music)
1647 01:26:08,080 01:26:10,583 - Halston, I think, honestly believed - Halston, I think, honestly believed
1648 01:26:10,749 01:26:15,087 that Carl Epstein was going to mediate with big business. that Carl Epstein was going to mediate with big business.
1649 01:26:17,423 01:26:19,925 But I remember thinking to myself, But I remember thinking to myself,
1650 01:26:20,092 01:26:22,928 well, there are two men in this room. well, there are two men in this room.
1651 01:26:23,095 01:26:26,849 But there's only one king at Halston Enterprises. But there's only one king at Halston Enterprises.
1652 01:26:30,227 01:26:32,938 (speaking in foreign language) (speaking in foreign language)
1653 01:26:33,105 01:26:36,358 - Voila. (chuckling) - Voila. (chuckling)
1654 01:26:36,525 01:26:38,360 I thought, hey, this is fun. I thought, hey, this is fun.
1655 01:26:38,527 01:26:42,865 Clothes had to be made for me similar to what he wears. Clothes had to be made for me similar to what he wears.
1656 01:26:43,032 01:26:46,243 Oh, my wife, my kids are getting all these clothes. Oh, my wife, my kids are getting all these clothes.
1657 01:26:46,410 01:26:50,581 And then one day, he introduces me to Liza Minnelli. And then one day, he introduces me to Liza Minnelli.
1658 01:26:52,166 01:26:54,710 I said, you know, this is, to hell with the business. I said, you know, this is, to hell with the business.
1659 01:26:54,877 01:26:55,836 This is great. This is great.
1660 01:26:56,962 01:27:00,132 You know, this is the way to live. You know, this is the way to live.
1661 01:27:00,299 01:27:01,967 - We had budget meetings and, apparently, - We had budget meetings and, apparently,
1662 01:27:02,134 01:27:03,385 theirs was a disaster. theirs was a disaster.
1663 01:27:03,552 01:27:06,805 Carl was not doing what we agreed to. Carl was not doing what we agreed to.
1664 01:27:06,972 01:27:08,599 I'm at the top, I'm at the top,
1665 01:27:08,766 01:27:09,850 and I don't care what's happening in the engine room. and I don't care what's happening in the engine room.
1666 01:27:10,017 01:27:11,810 I know the engine isn't running. I know the engine isn't running.
1667 01:27:11,977 01:27:13,854 And it wasn't. And it wasn't.
1668 01:27:14,021 01:27:15,522 Turn this into a brand. Turn this into a brand.
1669 01:27:15,689 01:27:17,816 Turn this into something we can handle, Turn this into something we can handle,
1670 01:27:17,983 01:27:20,277 and stop having it be this airy-fairy kind of, and stop having it be this airy-fairy kind of,
1671 01:27:20,444 01:27:22,780 I work when I want to, I'm not inspired, I'm an artist I work when I want to, I'm not inspired, I'm an artist
1672 01:27:22,947 01:27:24,698 kind of thing. kind of thing.
1673 01:27:24,865 01:27:27,493 - I read all the personnel files, - I read all the personnel files,
1674 01:27:27,660 01:27:29,745 and I had my rude awakening. and I had my rude awakening.
1675 01:27:29,912 01:27:33,374 D. D. Ryan, I have to laugh. D. D. Ryan, I have to laugh.
1676 01:27:34,500 01:27:38,045 Halston said, "Well, she's the resident geisha." Halston said, "Well, she's the resident geisha."
1677 01:27:40,965 01:27:42,925 Bill Dugan was another one. Bill Dugan was another one.
1678 01:27:43,092 01:27:45,219 He said, "Well, he amuses me." He said, "Well, he amuses me."
1679 01:27:46,303 01:27:48,472 And then he had Victor Hugo. And then he had Victor Hugo.
1680 01:27:48,639 01:27:51,350 I'll never forget once, he called me, frantic, I'll never forget once, he called me, frantic,
1681 01:27:51,517 01:27:54,103 Victor Hugo was gonna kill him. Victor Hugo was gonna kill him.
1682 01:27:54,269 01:27:59,149 - Victor held the entire office captive for several hours. - Victor held the entire office captive for several hours.
1683 01:27:59,775 01:28:01,902 He was kind of like a mad dog. He was kind of like a mad dog.
1684 01:28:02,069 01:28:03,779 - Probably shocking to Carl, because I don't think Carl - Probably shocking to Carl, because I don't think Carl
1685 01:28:03,946 01:28:06,198 was in the habit of taking drugs, period. was in the habit of taking drugs, period.
1686 01:28:06,365 01:28:08,701 Except, you know, Pepto-Bismol. Except, you know, Pepto-Bismol.
1687 01:28:09,952 01:28:12,413 - I just decided to duck out and go to the Top of the Sixes - I just decided to duck out and go to the Top of the Sixes
1688 01:28:12,579 01:28:15,582 and have some gin and tonics. and have some gin and tonics.
1689 01:28:15,749 01:28:18,961 - It was a crazy never-never land. - It was a crazy never-never land.
1690 01:28:19,128 01:28:22,172 Then, I checked all the expense stuff. Then, I checked all the expense stuff.
1691 01:28:22,339 01:28:24,049 And that blew my mind. And that blew my mind.
1692 01:28:24,216 01:28:25,467 The flowers. The flowers.
1693 01:28:25,634 01:28:28,053 (jazz noir music) (jazz noir music)
1694 01:28:28,220 01:28:30,472 - Carl had me in to talk to me about - Carl had me in to talk to me about
1695 01:28:30,639 01:28:33,225 what was being spent on the flower budget. what was being spent on the flower budget.
1696 01:28:33,392 01:28:35,102 And I said, And I said,
1697 01:28:35,269 01:28:39,023 yes, I know what's being spent on the flower budget, Carl. yes, I know what's being spent on the flower budget, Carl.
1698 01:28:39,189 01:28:41,734 I'm writing up the bills myself. I'm writing up the bills myself.
1699 01:28:41,900 01:28:43,610 - Esmark believed you could have plastic plants - Esmark believed you could have plastic plants
1700 01:28:43,777 01:28:45,696 instead of orchid plants. instead of orchid plants.
1701 01:28:45,863 01:28:46,864 They're plants. They're plants.
1702 01:28:48,115 01:28:50,242 - Entertainment, which was enormous. - Entertainment, which was enormous.
1703 01:28:50,409 01:28:52,411 The kitchen cost. The kitchen cost.
1704 01:28:52,578 01:28:55,080 Example, they would prepare a meal for him Example, they would prepare a meal for him
1705 01:28:55,247 01:28:59,334 while he's in Montauk, and put it on a private plane, while he's in Montauk, and put it on a private plane,
1706 01:28:59,501 01:29:03,589 fly it to Montauk, and deliver it to Halston's house. fly it to Montauk, and deliver it to Halston's house.
1707 01:29:03,756 01:29:06,341 And that was a company expense? And that was a company expense?
1708 01:29:06,508 01:29:09,678 That meal must have cost $2,000. That meal must have cost $2,000.
1709 01:29:09,845 01:29:14,183 - (laughing) It was '80s. - (laughing) It was '80s.
1710 01:29:14,349 01:29:17,102 - Martha Graham was honored in Paris last night. - Martha Graham was honored in Paris last night.
1711 01:29:17,269 01:29:19,271 She was presented with the Cross of the Chevalier She was presented with the Cross of the Chevalier
1712 01:29:19,438 01:29:21,065 of the Legion of Honor. of the Legion of Honor.
1713 01:29:21,231 01:29:24,568 - The honeymoon ended when he was going to go to Paris - The honeymoon ended when he was going to go to Paris
1714 01:29:24,735 01:29:26,862 with Martha Graham. with Martha Graham.
1715 01:29:27,029 01:29:29,990 He's gonna take his staff with him. He's gonna take his staff with him.
1716 01:29:30,157 01:29:33,243 We calculated the cost of doing that. We calculated the cost of doing that.
1717 01:29:33,410 01:29:36,872 And just the workroom, it was 125,000. And just the workroom, it was 125,000.
1718 01:29:37,039 01:29:40,584 So I then told Halston, you can't do it. So I then told Halston, you can't do it.
1719 01:29:40,751 01:29:42,628 Halston was so incensed. Halston was so incensed.
1720 01:29:43,879 01:29:46,048 "How dare you say no to me?" "How dare you say no to me?"
1721 01:29:47,174 01:29:48,884 It was like Jekyll and Hyde. It was like Jekyll and Hyde.
1722 01:29:49,051 01:29:51,053 Suddenly Mr. Hyde came out. Suddenly Mr. Hyde came out.
1723 01:29:53,430 01:29:55,724 From then on, I was the enemy. From then on, I was the enemy.
1724 01:29:57,476 01:30:01,105 - Carl, every morning, would put little sticky notes - Carl, every morning, would put little sticky notes
1725 01:30:01,271 01:30:04,983 on Halston's table about what had to happen today, on Halston's table about what had to happen today,
1726 01:30:05,150 01:30:07,027 or what things were gonna be taken away. or what things were gonna be taken away.
1727 01:30:07,194 01:30:09,822 And he didn't like it. And he didn't like it.
1728 01:30:09,988 01:30:11,657 - We need to do this, we need to do that. - We need to do this, we need to do that.
1729 01:30:11,824 01:30:14,326 And it was just like, you're bossing him around? And it was just like, you're bossing him around?
1730 01:30:14,493 01:30:16,620 Like, no one does that. Like, no one does that.
1731 01:30:16,787 01:30:17,996 - It was a big struggle. - It was a big struggle.
1732 01:30:18,163 01:30:19,498 And it got worse and worse, And it got worse and worse,
1733 01:30:19,665 01:30:21,208 and he started coming in later and later and he started coming in later and later
1734 01:30:21,375 01:30:27,339 so he wouldn't have to deal with seeing those people. so he wouldn't have to deal with seeing those people.
1735 01:30:32,469 01:30:35,180 - Be careful, it's a little dark here, hold on. - Be careful, it's a little dark here, hold on.
1736 01:30:44,481 01:30:46,984 History is filled with wars. History is filled with wars.
1737 01:30:47,151 01:30:49,153 But you have to understand the difference But you have to understand the difference
1738 01:30:49,319 01:30:51,530 between strategy and tactics. between strategy and tactics.
1739 01:30:52,739 01:30:54,783 Strategy is the art of war. Strategy is the art of war.
1740 01:30:56,243 01:30:58,412 Tactics is the art of battle. Tactics is the art of battle.
1741 01:31:00,455 01:31:04,042 The only real battle you must never lose is the last one. The only real battle you must never lose is the last one.
1742 01:31:04,209 01:31:06,712 (ominous music) (ominous music)
1743 01:31:11,008 01:31:14,052 - There was rumor that a junior designer was coming in - There was rumor that a junior designer was coming in
1744 01:31:14,219 01:31:18,098 to help with the JCPenney, and just huge workload. to help with the JCPenney, and just huge workload.
1745 01:31:21,018 01:31:23,729 - In the middle of February, picked up the phone, - In the middle of February, picked up the phone,
1746 01:31:23,896 01:31:28,108 and this very deep voice said, "John Ridge, this is Halston." and this very deep voice said, "John Ridge, this is Halston."
1747 01:31:28,275 01:31:30,861 And he said, "Can you come see me?" And he said, "Can you come see me?"
1748 01:31:31,028 01:31:32,571 So of course, I did. So of course, I did.
1749 01:31:32,738 01:31:36,491 And it turned out that it wasn't really an interview. And it turned out that it wasn't really an interview.
1750 01:31:36,658 01:31:39,870 It was, "When can you start?" It was, "When can you start?"
1751 01:31:40,037 01:31:42,831 And I think he just needed to know there was one head, And I think he just needed to know there was one head,
1752 01:31:42,998 01:31:46,376 two arms, and that I knew who Charles James was. two arms, and that I knew who Charles James was.
1753 01:32:04,394 01:32:06,521 - Probably after a month, I went to Carl and said, - Probably after a month, I went to Carl and said,
1754 01:32:06,688 01:32:10,067 I'm leaving, this is just an impossible situation. I'm leaving, this is just an impossible situation.
1755 01:32:10,234 01:32:11,360 We were there until eight, nine. We were there until eight, nine.
1756 01:32:11,526 01:32:13,779 We never knew when we were leaving. We never knew when we were leaving.
1757 01:32:13,946 01:32:17,741 I can't be responsible for what the workroom cost. I can't be responsible for what the workroom cost.
1758 01:32:17,908 01:32:19,576 And Carl said to me, And Carl said to me,
1759 01:32:19,743 01:32:22,913 "Don't leave, things are going to change." "Don't leave, things are going to change."
1760 01:32:23,080 01:32:25,749 (jazz noir music) (jazz noir music)
1761 01:32:27,376 01:32:30,087 - There was something called the Werner Report. - There was something called the Werner Report.
1762 01:32:30,254 01:32:33,465 But it was so hush hush, I didn't see it But it was so hush hush, I didn't see it
1763 01:32:33,632 01:32:37,469 until probably seven or eight months after I was there. until probably seven or eight months after I was there.
1764 01:32:37,636 01:32:38,971 When I read it, When I read it,
1765 01:32:39,137 01:32:41,974 it dawned on me that everything was tactical. it dawned on me that everything was tactical.
1766 01:32:42,140 01:32:44,226 They were gonna solve their problem They were gonna solve their problem
1767 01:32:44,393 01:32:46,395 by how we train the staff, by how we train the staff,
1768 01:32:46,561 01:32:50,023 how we make the staff unafraid of Halston. how we make the staff unafraid of Halston.
1769 01:32:50,190 01:32:54,778 How they would learn to cope with Halston and his tirades. How they would learn to cope with Halston and his tirades.
1770 01:32:55,195 01:32:56,989 Mahoney's attitude was, Mahoney's attitude was,
1771 01:32:57,155 01:33:00,784 we are not gonna try to control Halston. we are not gonna try to control Halston.
1772 01:33:00,951 01:33:04,037 My strategy was going back to square one. My strategy was going back to square one.
1773 01:33:05,455 01:33:08,583 Sometimes the kindest thing in the world you can do is Sometimes the kindest thing in the world you can do is
1774 01:33:08,750 01:33:10,168 to say no to somebody. to say no to somebody.
1775 01:33:11,628 01:33:14,423 He started coming in at four o'clock in the afternoon, He started coming in at four o'clock in the afternoon,
1776 01:33:14,589 01:33:16,758 and he wants the workroom to wait for him and he wants the workroom to wait for him
1777 01:33:16,925 01:33:18,635 to come in at that time. to come in at that time.
1778 01:33:18,802 01:33:21,763 I told him, it's not gonna happen. I told him, it's not gonna happen.
1779 01:33:21,930 01:33:26,226 They're gonna leave at five o'clock, period, done, over. They're gonna leave at five o'clock, period, done, over.
1780 01:33:28,145 01:33:30,147 In the final analysis, In the final analysis,
1781 01:33:30,314 01:33:33,358 he is like me and everybody else in that place, he is like me and everybody else in that place,
1782 01:33:33,525 01:33:35,068 an employee. an employee.
1783 01:33:35,235 01:33:36,695 - Carl was answerable. - Carl was answerable.
1784 01:33:36,862 01:33:39,698 And, you know, it's all about the bottom line. And, you know, it's all about the bottom line.
1785 01:33:39,865 01:33:41,575 - That's right, we knew that. - That's right, we knew that.
1786 01:33:41,742 01:33:46,163 - I suppose he was there to just slowly push Halston out. - I suppose he was there to just slowly push Halston out.
1787 01:33:46,330 01:33:47,581 They had the brand. They had the brand.
1788 01:33:47,748 01:33:50,584 Halston was the diva designer Halston was the diva designer
1789 01:33:50,751 01:33:54,379 that they didn't necessarily need anymore. that they didn't necessarily need anymore.
1790 01:33:54,546 01:33:57,424 Halston started taking legal counsel. Halston started taking legal counsel.
1791 01:34:00,052 01:34:03,221 - When I first met him, he was quite distraught. - When I first met him, he was quite distraught.
1792 01:34:03,388 01:34:05,349 He was so frustrated and so angry He was so frustrated and so angry
1793 01:34:05,515 01:34:09,561 he had trouble completing sentences and thoughts. he had trouble completing sentences and thoughts.
1794 01:34:09,728 01:34:11,355 Suddenly he was cast adrift. Suddenly he was cast adrift.
1795 01:34:11,521 01:34:13,190 Well, I guess I can best put it the way Halston put it, Well, I guess I can best put it the way Halston put it,
1796 01:34:13,357 01:34:16,610 that the folks from Planet Tampon landed that the folks from Planet Tampon landed
1797 01:34:16,777 01:34:17,903 on Planet Halston. on Planet Halston.
1798 01:34:18,070 01:34:20,781 (dramatic music) (dramatic music)
1799 01:34:20,947 01:34:22,032 - I'm going to pass this back and forth - I'm going to pass this back and forth
1800 01:34:22,199 01:34:23,575 like this. - Okay, all right. like this. - Okay, all right.
1801 01:34:23,742 01:34:24,659 - You don't have to worry about. - You don't have to worry about.
1802 01:34:24,826 01:34:26,411 - I saw him tired at times. - I saw him tired at times.
1803 01:34:26,578 01:34:28,872 I thought he was really tired. I thought he was really tired.
1804 01:34:30,040 01:34:32,084 - One time I came in, - One time I came in,
1805 01:34:32,250 01:34:35,670 and I think he might have had a panic session. and I think he might have had a panic session.
1806 01:34:38,006 01:34:39,633 He just seemed very stressed. He just seemed very stressed.
1807 01:34:39,800 01:34:40,759 And I said, can I do anything? And I said, can I do anything?
1808 01:34:40,926 01:34:42,844 He said, "No, just sit here. He said, "No, just sit here.
1809 01:34:43,011 01:34:44,262 "Just sit here." "Just sit here."
1810 01:34:44,429 01:34:47,432 And we sat there for, like, 30 minutes. And we sat there for, like, 30 minutes.
1811 01:34:47,599 01:34:50,268 Wow, that's new. Wow, that's new.
1812 01:34:51,770 01:34:56,274 - Halston never asked me what I thought of his collection. - Halston never asked me what I thought of his collection.
1813 01:35:01,238 01:35:04,825 This time, he asked me what I thought of his collection. This time, he asked me what I thought of his collection.
1814 01:35:04,991 01:35:07,285 And, honestly, it was like someone had punched me And, honestly, it was like someone had punched me
1815 01:35:07,452 01:35:12,082 in my stomach, because I knew that he was feeling in my stomach, because I knew that he was feeling
1816 01:35:12,249 01:35:14,209 not as strong as he had been. not as strong as he had been.
1817 01:35:14,376 01:35:15,961 And it made me sad. And it made me sad.
1818 01:35:18,588 01:35:20,298 - If you lived in another epoch - If you lived in another epoch
1819 01:35:20,465 01:35:23,593 in another time in another city, could you pick it for me? in another time in another city, could you pick it for me?
1820 01:35:23,760 01:35:24,428 - Oh, no way. - Oh, no way.
1821 01:35:24,594 01:35:25,804 I like right now. I like right now.
1822 01:35:25,971 01:35:27,139 And tomorrow's going to be better, And tomorrow's going to be better,
1823 01:35:27,305 01:35:28,807 and next week is going to be better. and next week is going to be better.
1824 01:35:28,974 01:35:30,767 No, no, no, I'm the all-time optimist. No, no, no, I'm the all-time optimist.
1825 01:35:30,934 01:35:33,061 No, I like right now. No, I like right now.
1826 01:35:33,228 01:35:35,605 - The problem was simply drugs. - The problem was simply drugs.
1827 01:35:37,941 01:35:40,193 He had gone way too far. He had gone way too far.
1828 01:35:40,360 01:35:42,320 - I don't do tuxedos. - I don't do tuxedos.
1829 01:35:42,487 01:35:44,281 - He was out of control. - He was out of control.
1830 01:35:45,824 01:35:50,829 Out of control was symmetrical with Esmark taking over. Out of control was symmetrical with Esmark taking over.
1831 01:35:50,996 01:35:53,874 So you tell me which is the chicken and which is the egg. So you tell me which is the chicken and which is the egg.
1832 01:35:54,040 01:35:56,793 - Some time in that spring, Liza went to Betty Ford. - Some time in that spring, Liza went to Betty Ford.
1833 01:35:56,960 01:36:00,714 And Halston said, "It's great that things like this exist And Halston said, "It's great that things like this exist
1834 01:36:00,881 01:36:02,007 "for those who need them. "for those who need them.
1835 01:36:02,174 01:36:03,425 "Of course, the rest of us "Of course, the rest of us
1836 01:36:03,592 01:36:05,760 "have to get on and earn a living." "have to get on and earn a living."
1837 01:36:07,471 01:36:11,641 - Very hard to do an interview about your best friend, - Very hard to do an interview about your best friend,
1838 01:36:13,059 01:36:15,896 especially if what's popular in that day and age especially if what's popular in that day and age
1839 01:36:16,062 01:36:17,689 is digging a little. is digging a little.
1840 01:36:17,856 01:36:19,191 I don't like it. I don't like it.
1841 01:36:19,357 01:36:21,026 I hated it when they did it to my mother I hated it when they did it to my mother
1842 01:36:21,193 01:36:23,028 or my father or myself. or my father or myself.
1843 01:36:23,195 01:36:26,698 And I won't do it to Halston, I just won't. And I won't do it to Halston, I just won't.
1844 01:36:26,865 01:36:28,658 I refuse. I refuse.
1845 01:36:33,622 01:36:37,292 (audience applauding) (audience applauding)
1846 01:36:37,459 01:36:40,795 - In June, he had summer to do for JCPenney, - In June, he had summer to do for JCPenney,
1847 01:36:42,255 01:36:45,383 Which was way late at that point. Which was way late at that point.
1848 01:36:45,550 01:36:47,511 - Halston cooled off. - Halston cooled off.
1849 01:36:47,677 01:36:50,055 He don't want do JCPenney anymore. He don't want do JCPenney anymore.
1850 01:36:50,222 01:36:51,556 I don't know why, I don't know why,
1851 01:36:51,723 01:36:53,683 but that's when everything went upside-down. but that's when everything went upside-down.
1852 01:36:53,850 01:36:56,436 (dramatic music) (dramatic music)
1853 01:36:57,646 01:36:59,147 - I think he thought that if he went on strike - I think he thought that if he went on strike
1854 01:36:59,314 01:37:02,067 and didn't design the collections and didn't design the collections
1855 01:37:02,234 01:37:06,238 that he had some power over the situation, you know. that he had some power over the situation, you know.
1856 01:37:07,405 01:37:09,074 - I'm getting calls from JCPenney saying, - I'm getting calls from JCPenney saying,
1857 01:37:09,241 01:37:10,909 "Where are our products? "Where are our products?
1858 01:37:11,076 01:37:12,452 "Where are the designs? "Where are the designs?
1859 01:37:12,619 01:37:14,829 "He hasn't approved them." "He hasn't approved them."
1860 01:37:14,996 01:37:18,041 And whether he was doing that to get revenge on Carl, And whether he was doing that to get revenge on Carl,
1861 01:37:18,208 01:37:20,001 or whether he was doing it because he was doped up, or whether he was doing it because he was doped up,
1862 01:37:20,168 01:37:21,795 it wasn't happening. it wasn't happening.
1863 01:37:21,962 01:37:23,380 - They were very frustrated - They were very frustrated
1864 01:37:23,547 01:37:27,217 because they couldn't get sketches from Halston. because they couldn't get sketches from Halston.
1865 01:37:27,384 01:37:28,885 So one day, I drew them a jacket So one day, I drew them a jacket
1866 01:37:29,052 01:37:30,387 'cause they had to have a jacket, 'cause they had to have a jacket,
1867 01:37:30,554 01:37:31,680 and Halston wasn't there, and Halston wasn't there,
1868 01:37:31,846 01:37:35,433 and I, well, he was not too happy and I, well, he was not too happy
1869 01:37:35,600 01:37:37,811 that I'd given them a sketch. that I'd given them a sketch.
1870 01:37:39,646 01:37:43,108 But Penney's was very happy about it. But Penney's was very happy about it.
1871 01:37:43,275 01:37:45,652 And I think that they went away viewing me as a source And I think that they went away viewing me as a source
1872 01:37:45,819 01:37:49,656 that they could turn to and get something. that they could turn to and get something.
1873 01:37:49,823 01:37:51,866 And that was kind of the beginning And that was kind of the beginning
1874 01:37:52,033 01:37:55,203 of my personal relationship with Penney's. of my personal relationship with Penney's.
1875 01:37:56,496 01:37:57,664 - It is inappropriate - It is inappropriate
1876 01:37:57,831 01:37:59,583 to have John Ridge involved in areas to have John Ridge involved in areas
1877 01:37:59,749 01:38:02,043 which do not fall under his responsibilities, which do not fall under his responsibilities,
1878 01:38:02,210 01:38:03,878 signed Halston. signed Halston.
1879 01:38:04,045 01:38:06,423 To John Ridge from Carl Epstein. To John Ridge from Carl Epstein.
1880 01:38:06,590 01:38:08,800 Please keep up the good work. Please keep up the good work.
1881 01:38:10,010 01:38:13,221 - Carl was hell-bent on isolating Halston. - Carl was hell-bent on isolating Halston.
1882 01:38:14,472 01:38:16,850 Halston felt that he could no longer work with Carl. Halston felt that he could no longer work with Carl.
1883 01:38:17,017 01:38:19,519 All he was good at was destroying. All he was good at was destroying.
1884 01:38:21,229 01:38:22,522 We decided the best thing for Halston We decided the best thing for Halston
1885 01:38:22,689 01:38:24,232 would be to go to Montauk would be to go to Montauk
1886 01:38:24,399 01:38:28,361 and give everybody a chance to take a deep breath. and give everybody a chance to take a deep breath.
1887 01:38:28,528 01:38:31,448 We thought that there would be a deep breath taken also We thought that there would be a deep breath taken also
1888 01:38:31,615 01:38:33,825 on the part of the Esmark people. on the part of the Esmark people.
1889 01:38:33,992 01:38:35,619 Turned out not to be the case. Turned out not to be the case.
1890 01:38:35,785 01:38:37,746 (jazz noir music) (jazz noir music)
1891 01:38:37,912 01:38:40,582 - Carl started cleaning house. - Carl started cleaning house.
1892 01:38:40,749 01:38:44,002 D. D. Ryan, Bill Dugan. D. D. Ryan, Bill Dugan.
1893 01:38:44,169 01:38:46,254 - I was fired. - I was fired.
1894 01:38:46,421 01:38:48,590 - May I have your attention, please? - May I have your attention, please?
1895 01:38:48,757 01:38:50,008 - They couldn't touch me - They couldn't touch me
1896 01:38:50,175 01:38:52,052 because he still had an office there because he still had an office there
1897 01:38:52,218 01:38:54,888 and I was still his secretary. and I was still his secretary.
1898 01:38:55,055 01:38:57,515 I remember him calling me. I remember him calling me.
1899 01:38:57,682 01:39:00,810 Carl held a meeting in front of all the employees Carl held a meeting in front of all the employees
1900 01:39:00,977 01:39:03,063 at Halston Enterprises. at Halston Enterprises.
1901 01:39:03,229 01:39:07,067 He said that it would no longer be a one-man show. He said that it would no longer be a one-man show.
1902 01:39:08,318 01:39:09,819 John David Ridge was promoted John David Ridge was promoted
1903 01:39:09,986 01:39:12,739 and would be in charge of the design. and would be in charge of the design.
1904 01:39:14,282 01:39:15,742 He is livid. He is livid.
1905 01:39:15,909 01:39:16,993 "It's my name on the label. "It's my name on the label.
1906 01:39:17,160 01:39:18,745 "How dare you?" "How dare you?"
1907 01:39:18,912 01:39:20,872 - It was his company, his people, - It was his company, his people,
1908 01:39:21,039 01:39:23,458 his workers, everything. his workers, everything.
1909 01:39:23,625 01:39:25,085 So, we went back So, we went back
1910 01:39:25,251 01:39:29,881 and it unraveled into a very unpleasant scenario. and it unraveled into a very unpleasant scenario.
1911 01:39:30,048 01:39:32,592 - It was like having two chefs in the kitchen. - It was like having two chefs in the kitchen.
1912 01:39:32,759 01:39:35,845 Everybody was saying, well, let's divide Everybody was saying, well, let's divide
1913 01:39:36,012 01:39:37,180 the space up there, the space up there,
1914 01:39:37,347 01:39:38,890 and this half is Halston and this half is Halston
1915 01:39:39,057 01:39:41,935 and this other half is Halston III with John Ridge. and this other half is Halston III with John Ridge.
1916 01:39:42,102 01:39:44,062 - At some point, I said no. - At some point, I said no.
1917 01:39:45,397 01:39:48,608 No, you can get someone else to do it, but I'm not going. No, you can get someone else to do it, but I'm not going.
1918 01:39:48,775 01:39:52,904 I knew, at this point, I knew Halston pretty well, the man. I knew, at this point, I knew Halston pretty well, the man.
1919 01:39:53,071 01:39:56,324 - There was a lot of angst going on. - There was a lot of angst going on.
1920 01:39:56,491 01:39:59,160 And so, I had my first meeting with Roy. And so, I had my first meeting with Roy.
1921 01:39:59,327 01:40:01,037 "Yes, Bregman, what can I do for you?" "Yes, Bregman, what can I do for you?"
1922 01:40:01,204 01:40:06,251 And I'd say, well, Roy, that was the beginning. (laughing) And I'd say, well, Roy, that was the beginning. (laughing)
1923 01:40:11,381 01:40:13,091 He was talking about going into another business. He was talking about going into another business.
1924 01:40:13,258 01:40:15,093 That's why I started calling him Roy. That's why I started calling him Roy.
1925 01:40:15,260 01:40:17,345 I said, you don't own your name, pal. I said, you don't own your name, pal.
1926 01:40:17,512 01:40:18,388 Read the small print. Read the small print.
1927 01:40:18,555 01:40:19,973 We own your name. We own your name.
1928 01:40:20,140 01:40:22,767 (dramatic music) (dramatic music)
1929 01:40:24,436 01:40:26,438 - This was all blowing up. - This was all blowing up.
1930 01:40:27,647 01:40:32,652 They said to me, "I want you to go in and talk to him." They said to me, "I want you to go in and talk to him."
1931 01:40:32,819 01:40:34,571 I was there that morning, too, we were sitting, he and I, I was there that morning, too, we were sitting, he and I,
1932 01:40:34,738 01:40:38,032 in his office, till about one, 1:30 in the morning. in his office, till about one, 1:30 in the morning.
1933 01:40:38,199 01:40:41,369 And he said to me, "We can do this." And he said to me, "We can do this."
1934 01:40:41,536 01:40:43,663 I said, we can do what? I said, we can do what?
1935 01:40:43,830 01:40:46,791 He said, "We can take this over He said, "We can take this over
1936 01:40:46,958 01:40:48,168 "and get it away from the corporation "and get it away from the corporation
1937 01:40:48,334 01:40:49,544 "and run it as an." "and run it as an."
1938 01:40:49,711 01:40:52,005 I said, Halston, it would never work. I said, Halston, it would never work.
1939 01:40:52,172 01:40:53,715 Where is this money gonna come from? Where is this money gonna come from?
1940 01:40:53,882 01:40:57,010 I said, do you know how much money you spend? I said, do you know how much money you spend?
1941 01:40:57,177 01:40:58,470 And how luxurious. And how luxurious.
1942 01:40:59,721 01:41:01,347 I said, just take a look around. I said, just take a look around.
1943 01:41:01,514 01:41:03,433 You've had the biggest and the best. You've had the biggest and the best.
1944 01:41:03,600 01:41:07,520 And this kind of money is not gonna be found again. And this kind of money is not gonna be found again.
1945 01:41:11,983 01:41:15,695 - They requested, and I put that in quotation marks, - They requested, and I put that in quotation marks,
1946 01:41:15,862 01:41:18,656 that I not be present at the meeting. that I not be present at the meeting.
1947 01:41:21,159 01:41:22,494 I'm sitting in my office, I'm sitting in my office,
1948 01:41:22,660 01:41:25,371 and I felt like having a cup of tea. and I felt like having a cup of tea.
1949 01:41:25,538 01:41:27,248 So I thought I'd go into the kitchen. So I thought I'd go into the kitchen.
1950 01:41:27,415 01:41:30,627 I go to the door, put my key in the lock, I go to the door, put my key in the lock,
1951 01:41:30,794 01:41:32,170 key is not working. key is not working.
1952 01:41:34,130 01:41:35,715 I couldn't understand, why the key? I couldn't understand, why the key?
1953 01:41:35,882 01:41:38,426 So I run around to the front door. So I run around to the front door.
1954 01:41:39,719 01:41:43,306 And there's a guy working on the door there, a locksmith. And there's a guy working on the door there, a locksmith.
1955 01:41:43,473 01:41:45,308 He's changing the locks. He's changing the locks.
1956 01:41:46,601 01:41:48,603 I said, who hired you? I said, who hired you?
1957 01:41:48,770 01:41:49,729 - Mr. Halston. - Mr. Halston.
1958 01:41:50,980 01:41:58,530 - I stormed into that meeting, and I just blew my top. - I stormed into that meeting, and I just blew my top.
1959 01:41:59,697 01:42:02,200 Even his lawyer was shocked. Even his lawyer was shocked.
1960 01:42:02,367 01:42:04,577 - (laughing) No, Halston didn't change the locks. - (laughing) No, Halston didn't change the locks.
1961 01:42:04,744 01:42:05,912 He was locked out. He was locked out.
1962 01:42:07,831 01:42:10,208 Carl admitted he changed the locks. Carl admitted he changed the locks.
1963 01:42:10,375 01:42:12,085 - Job is done, Mr. Epstein. - Job is done, Mr. Epstein.
1964 01:42:12,252 01:42:13,753 - You actually admitted it. - You actually admitted it.
1965 01:42:13,920 01:42:15,588 - I admitted it? - I admitted it?
1966 01:42:15,755 01:42:18,758 - In Women's Wear Daily, several months later. - In Women's Wear Daily, several months later.
1967 01:42:18,925 01:42:23,388 When there was a story about trouble at the Olympic Tower. When there was a story about trouble at the Olympic Tower.
1968 01:42:25,932 01:42:29,853 - I said, look, that's it, I've had it. - I said, look, that's it, I've had it.
1969 01:42:30,019 01:42:31,437 You know, I don't wanna have to think about You know, I don't wanna have to think about
1970 01:42:31,604 01:42:33,022 somebody changing the locks. somebody changing the locks.
1971 01:42:33,189 01:42:35,733 Either he goes or I go. Either he goes or I go.
1972 01:42:40,780 01:42:43,032 - When Epstein gave 'em the signal, they said, - When Epstein gave 'em the signal, they said,
1973 01:42:43,199 01:42:45,577 "We're done, you're done." "We're done, you're done."
1974 01:42:45,743 01:42:49,455 And Halston was out. And Halston was out.
1975 01:42:54,419 01:42:56,129 - It was weird. - It was weird.
1976 01:42:56,296 01:43:02,135 It was surreal that this coup d'etat happened so quickly. It was surreal that this coup d'etat happened so quickly.
1977 01:43:07,140 01:43:10,351 - I was very heartbroken for him. - I was very heartbroken for him.
1978 01:43:10,518 01:43:12,896 He was like a man without a country. He was like a man without a country.
1979 01:43:13,062 01:43:14,272 The Halston name, The Halston name,
1980 01:43:15,815 01:43:18,610 that was the most important thing in his entire life, that was the most important thing in his entire life,
1981 01:43:18,776 01:43:23,031 could be used by that corporation could be used by that corporation
1982 01:43:23,197 01:43:24,616 without his consent. without his consent.
1983 01:43:24,782 01:43:28,328 - Halston Enterprises and Organization MINE, - Halston Enterprises and Organization MINE,
1984 01:43:28,494 01:43:32,874 a symbolic signing of the licensing agreement for Mexico. a symbolic signing of the licensing agreement for Mexico.
1985 01:43:34,959 01:43:39,672 (speaking in foreign language) (vibrant music) (speaking in foreign language) (vibrant music)
1986 01:43:41,299 01:43:42,175 - Hola. - Hola.
1987 01:43:42,342 01:43:44,344 ♪ Halston ♪ ♪ Halston ♪
1988 01:43:45,386 01:43:47,805 (dramatic music) (dramatic music)
1989 01:44:00,443 01:44:02,278 - Week after week, month after month, - Week after week, month after month,
1990 01:44:02,445 01:44:06,324 he realized that he didn't have much clout anymore he realized that he didn't have much clout anymore
1991 01:44:06,491 01:44:07,784 with the company. with the company.
1992 01:44:10,620 01:44:11,913 - When one comes in to make a company healthy, - When one comes in to make a company healthy,
1993 01:44:12,080 01:44:15,458 it depends how you define health. it depends how you define health.
1994 01:44:15,625 01:44:17,502 - People were suddenly at peace, - People were suddenly at peace,
1995 01:44:17,669 01:44:21,339 had comfortable jobs, were not being shouted at. had comfortable jobs, were not being shouted at.
1996 01:44:22,924 01:44:24,342 - We had not much to do. - We had not much to do.
1997 01:44:24,509 01:44:25,969 No movie star. No movie star.
1998 01:44:26,135 01:44:27,512 No celebrity. No celebrity.
1999 01:44:27,679 01:44:30,890 JCPenney, and that's it. JCPenney, and that's it.
2000 01:44:31,307 01:44:33,142 And not even, because at one point And not even, because at one point
2001 01:44:33,309 01:44:35,186 they used to do everything in China. they used to do everything in China.
2002 01:44:35,353 01:44:37,563 We just would send the pattern, We just would send the pattern,
2003 01:44:37,730 01:44:40,692 and they used to make everything there. and they used to make everything there.
2004 01:44:44,362 01:44:45,738 - Carl told me one day - Carl told me one day
2005 01:44:45,905 01:44:48,700 that he was gonna sell off all the samples. that he was gonna sell off all the samples.
2006 01:44:53,746 01:44:58,001 - That was his record that should be in a museum, - That was his record that should be in a museum,
2007 01:44:58,167 01:45:01,671 and they decided to sell those important pieces and they decided to sell those important pieces
2008 01:45:01,838 01:45:04,090 for 25 bucks, 50 bucks apiece. for 25 bucks, 50 bucks apiece.
2009 01:45:08,177 01:45:09,303 - But it was just stuff sitting there, - But it was just stuff sitting there,
2010 01:45:09,470 01:45:11,848 year after year, doing nothing. year after year, doing nothing.
2011 01:45:15,977 01:45:18,980 - Some pieces went here, some pieces went there. - Some pieces went here, some pieces went there.
2012 01:45:19,147 01:45:25,236 But the mother lode of it is gone, eliminated, erased. But the mother lode of it is gone, eliminated, erased.
2013 01:45:26,070 01:45:27,989 It was hostile. It was hostile.
2014 01:45:28,156 01:45:30,158 - There was nothing personal about it. - There was nothing personal about it.
2015 01:45:30,324 01:45:32,285 If you want to call something personal, If you want to call something personal,
2016 01:45:32,452 01:45:33,828 I really didn't give a damn I really didn't give a damn
2017 01:45:33,995 01:45:36,497 what Halston's reaction would be. what Halston's reaction would be.
2018 01:45:36,664 01:45:38,374 We were beyond that. We were beyond that.
2019 01:45:38,541 01:45:41,419 - Why not give it to a museum? - Why not give it to a museum?
2020 01:45:44,672 01:45:45,882 - And then there was a bookcase - And then there was a bookcase
2021 01:45:46,049 01:45:48,426 full of video tapes of the shows. full of video tapes of the shows.
2022 01:45:48,593 01:45:50,178 Said to Carl, well, I want these tapes. Said to Carl, well, I want these tapes.
2023 01:45:50,344 01:45:52,388 He said, "No, Halston has copies." He said, "No, Halston has copies."
2024 01:45:52,555 01:45:54,057 (static crackling) (audio screeching) (static crackling) (audio screeching)
2025 01:45:54,223 01:45:55,850 (video beeping) - How do you do? (video beeping) - How do you do?
2026 01:45:56,017 01:45:57,143 I'm Halston. I'm Halston.
2027 01:45:57,310 01:45:58,770 - Carl said he was gonna erase them - Carl said he was gonna erase them
2028 01:45:58,936 01:46:01,898 and sell the blanks to the next tenant. and sell the blanks to the next tenant.
2029 01:46:05,401 01:46:07,278 (models cheering and laughing) (models cheering and laughing)
2030 01:46:07,445 01:46:09,238 - Everyone thinks you're an overnight success. - Everyone thinks you're an overnight success.
2031 01:46:09,405 01:46:12,033 I had worked very hard for 20 years. I had worked very hard for 20 years.
2032 01:46:12,200 01:46:13,076 This is. This is.
2033 01:46:13,242 01:46:16,120 ♪ Happy birthday to me ♪ ♪ Happy birthday to me ♪
2034 01:46:17,997 01:46:21,959 (video humming) (static crackling) (video humming) (static crackling)
2035 01:46:22,126 01:46:24,337 (audio screeching) (audio screeching)
2036 01:46:24,504 01:46:27,215 - There is no home in Iowa, you see. - There is no home in Iowa, you see.
2037 01:46:27,381 01:46:32,136 (static hissing) (static hissing)
2038 01:46:48,194 01:46:50,822 - I really wanted to show this photo. - I really wanted to show this photo.
2039 01:46:50,988 01:46:55,451 So, my grandparents, this is Hallie Mae and James Edward. So, my grandparents, this is Hallie Mae and James Edward.
2040 01:46:55,618 01:46:57,495 (gentle guitar music) (gentle guitar music)
2041 01:46:57,662 01:46:59,247 They were working class. They were working class.
2042 01:46:59,413 01:47:04,085 My grandmother, I'm not sure, made it past ninth grade. My grandmother, I'm not sure, made it past ninth grade.
2043 01:47:04,252 01:47:06,003 They had four children. They had four children.
2044 01:47:07,922 01:47:09,841 My father first. My father first.
2045 01:47:10,007 01:47:13,719 And then Roy Halston Frowick came along in 1932. And then Roy Halston Frowick came along in 1932.
2046 01:47:18,057 01:47:19,142 You know, times were tough. You know, times were tough.
2047 01:47:19,308 01:47:21,561 Grew up in the Depression era. Grew up in the Depression era.
2048 01:47:24,188 01:47:26,649 Halston and my father weren't close with their father. Halston and my father weren't close with their father.
2049 01:47:26,816 01:47:29,527 They loved him, but he had a temper. They loved him, but he had a temper.
2050 01:47:32,280 01:47:34,615 My grandmother took him under her wing My grandmother took him under her wing
2051 01:47:34,782 01:47:37,910 and was sort of protecting him. and was sort of protecting him.
2052 01:47:38,077 01:47:42,456 She was a sweet, sweet, soft-spoken, very mellow woman, She was a sweet, sweet, soft-spoken, very mellow woman,
2053 01:47:42,623 01:47:46,669 and you just felt so calm around her. and you just felt so calm around her.
2054 01:47:51,716 01:47:54,760 When she passed away, Halston was in the middle of JCPenney, When she passed away, Halston was in the middle of JCPenney,
2055 01:47:54,927 01:47:56,929 but he didn't tell them anything. but he didn't tell them anything.
2056 01:47:57,096 01:47:59,265 He just said he had to leave. He just said he had to leave.
2057 01:48:01,267 01:48:02,894 He suffered silently. He suffered silently.
2058 01:48:06,564 01:48:10,067 Halston wasn't estranged from his family per se, Halston wasn't estranged from his family per se,
2059 01:48:10,234 01:48:12,528 it's just that the family's very conservative. it's just that the family's very conservative.
2060 01:48:12,695 01:48:16,490 He felt that they wouldn't understand his lifestyle He felt that they wouldn't understand his lifestyle
2061 01:48:16,657 01:48:19,368 with Victor there, and although he was constantly trying with Victor there, and although he was constantly trying
2062 01:48:19,535 01:48:21,746 to get him out of his life, and I was there. to get him out of his life, and I was there.
2063 01:48:21,913 01:48:23,581 And eventually he did. And eventually he did.
2064 01:48:25,917 01:48:29,086 I kept trying to tell him to reconnect with his siblings, I kept trying to tell him to reconnect with his siblings,
2065 01:48:29,253 01:48:31,255 telling him, they're not gonna judge you. telling him, they're not gonna judge you.
2066 01:48:31,422 01:48:33,090 The family's there for you. The family's there for you.
2067 01:48:33,257 01:48:35,676 And at a certain point, And at a certain point,
2068 01:48:35,843 01:48:39,305 I helped him organize the first family reunion in Montauk. I helped him organize the first family reunion in Montauk.
2069 01:48:48,814 01:48:51,108 He let his hair down He let his hair down
2070 01:48:51,275 01:48:54,654 and was the brother that he was 40 years prior. and was the brother that he was 40 years prior.
2071 01:48:59,533 01:49:02,828 But he was who he was, so he had to plan it, But he was who he was, so he had to plan it,
2072 01:49:02,995 01:49:05,248 every moment of it. every moment of it.
2073 01:49:05,414 01:49:08,584 They got all white sweat suits for one event, They got all white sweat suits for one event,
2074 01:49:08,751 01:49:12,296 and they got all Army uniforms for the safari. and they got all Army uniforms for the safari.
2075 01:49:14,173 01:49:16,759 - He loved life and you could tell that about him. - He loved life and you could tell that about him.
2076 01:49:16,926 01:49:17,969 You could tell. You could tell.
2077 01:49:20,346 01:49:25,101 - I think he just wanted, maybe to slow down a little. - I think he just wanted, maybe to slow down a little.
2078 01:49:25,268 01:49:26,769 Being a regular person. Being a regular person.
2079 01:49:28,104 01:49:30,564 Here, he was Halston. Here, he was Halston.
2080 01:49:30,731 01:49:33,901 But I think inside, he was, you know, Roy. But I think inside, he was, you know, Roy.
2081 01:49:38,781 01:49:41,033 - It came to a point where he said, - It came to a point where he said,
2082 01:49:41,200 01:49:44,620 "I'm not gonna be able to go back to designing, "I'm not gonna be able to go back to designing,
2083 01:49:44,787 01:49:47,290 "so you need to kind of pursue your own life." "so you need to kind of pursue your own life."
2084 01:49:47,456 01:49:49,292 You know, he didn't want to hold me back. You know, he didn't want to hold me back.
2085 01:49:49,458 01:49:54,130 So I decided to move to California. So I decided to move to California.
2086 01:49:54,755 01:49:57,800 (gentle guitar music) (gentle guitar music)
2087 01:49:57,967 01:50:00,803 It was a difficult decision to make. It was a difficult decision to make.
2088 01:50:00,970 01:50:02,471 But I bought a car But I bought a car
2089 01:50:02,638 01:50:04,932 and told him I wanted to take him for a drive and told him I wanted to take him for a drive
2090 01:50:05,099 01:50:08,269 up the Hudson River to blow off the stink. up the Hudson River to blow off the stink.
2091 01:50:12,064 01:50:14,442 It was a beautiful, sunny Sunday. It was a beautiful, sunny Sunday.
2092 01:50:14,608 01:50:16,819 And at certain point, through the chatter, he said, And at certain point, through the chatter, he said,
2093 01:50:16,986 01:50:19,322 "Well, I have to tell you something." "Well, I have to tell you something."
2094 01:50:19,488 01:50:20,906 And he revealed to me at that point And he revealed to me at that point
2095 01:50:21,073 01:50:23,034 that he was sick with HIV. that he was sick with HIV.
2096 01:50:24,493 01:50:28,039 And I just shut down and started freaking out. And I just shut down and started freaking out.
2097 01:50:29,957 01:50:32,668 And he said, "It's not a death sentence." And he said, "It's not a death sentence."
2098 01:50:32,835 01:50:34,879 So I did the stiff upper lip thing, So I did the stiff upper lip thing,
2099 01:50:35,046 01:50:37,298 'cause he didn't like people to cry, 'cause he didn't like people to cry,
2100 01:50:37,465 01:50:38,924 and just went along with it like, and just went along with it like,
2101 01:50:39,091 01:50:41,594 no, it's not a death sentence, no. no, it's not a death sentence, no.
2102 01:50:45,389 01:50:46,891 But you have to remember, But you have to remember,
2103 01:50:47,058 01:50:49,393 so many people were getting sick in those days. so many people were getting sick in those days.
2104 01:50:49,560 01:50:52,313 - The fashion industry here is being devastated by AIDS. - The fashion industry here is being devastated by AIDS.
2105 01:50:52,480 01:50:54,190 - When Perry Ellis died in 1986, - When Perry Ellis died in 1986,
2106 01:50:54,357 01:50:56,192 his company denied it was AIDS-related. his company denied it was AIDS-related.
2107 01:50:56,359 01:50:58,110 - There is no drug, there is no treatment, - There is no drug, there is no treatment,
2108 01:50:58,277 01:51:01,113 there's no vaccine, there's no prevention, there is no cure. there's no vaccine, there's no prevention, there is no cure.
2109 01:51:01,280 01:51:03,074 - No one was beating it. - No one was beating it.
2110 01:51:04,575 01:51:05,785 I was terrified. I was terrified.
2111 01:51:06,952 01:51:09,205 I was scared for him. I was scared for him.
2112 01:51:09,372 01:51:10,498 - I didn't wanna leave. - I didn't wanna leave.
2113 01:51:10,664 01:51:12,124 I kept asking him and asking him, I kept asking him and asking him,
2114 01:51:12,291 01:51:14,377 and even the last day I said, I can stay here. and even the last day I said, I can stay here.
2115 01:51:14,543 01:51:17,338 I can live here, I can be your nurse, I can take you, I can live here, I can be your nurse, I can take you,
2116 01:51:17,505 01:51:19,507 I can get your stuff if you don't want to go out. I can get your stuff if you don't want to go out.
2117 01:51:19,673 01:51:24,053 And he was like, "No, I don't want you to do that." And he was like, "No, I don't want you to do that."
2118 01:51:24,220 01:51:27,306 So I left. So I left.
2119 01:51:37,400 01:51:41,028 - He handled it the way he had to handle it. - He handled it the way he had to handle it.
2120 01:51:41,195 01:51:43,489 You know, denial, and then fighting it and saying, You know, denial, and then fighting it and saying,
2121 01:51:43,656 01:51:44,698 "No, this is not gonna take me." "No, this is not gonna take me."
2122 01:51:44,865 01:51:47,451 And then finally realizing it had. And then finally realizing it had.
2123 01:51:49,161 01:51:51,956 (solemn music) (solemn music)
2124 01:51:59,213 01:52:00,965 He decided to sell the house. He decided to sell the house.
2125 01:52:12,393 01:52:15,813 (gentle piano music) (gentle piano music)
2126 01:52:15,980 01:52:17,690 - He decided he was gonna live - He decided he was gonna live
2127 01:52:17,857 01:52:22,278 his last moments of his life with his family in California. his last moments of his life with his family in California.
2128 01:52:24,363 01:52:26,657 He didn't want anybody to know, He didn't want anybody to know,
2129 01:52:26,824 01:52:30,828 so I didn't tell anybody until I had to tell my dad. so I didn't tell anybody until I had to tell my dad.
2130 01:52:35,374 01:52:39,587 - He left, and he completely hid away - He left, and he completely hid away
2131 01:52:39,753 01:52:41,839 and didn't want anybody to see him. and didn't want anybody to see him.
2132 01:52:42,006 01:52:44,383 - We would write him letters. - We would write him letters.
2133 01:52:48,554 01:52:51,432 - I did not know that he was ill. - I did not know that he was ill.
2134 01:52:51,599 01:52:53,726 I wish I could call him now. I wish I could call him now.
2135 01:52:56,187 01:52:59,982 - That was a period of people I knew - That was a period of people I knew
2136 01:53:00,733 01:53:03,611 that they will never come back. that they will never come back.
2137 01:53:03,777 01:53:05,237 But I remember them. But I remember them.
2138 01:53:06,697 01:53:08,782 I don't regret those times. I don't regret those times.
2139 01:53:08,949 01:53:10,326 I am alone, though. I am alone, though.
2140 01:53:11,827 01:53:13,412 And you are a voyeur. And you are a voyeur.
2141 01:53:16,582 01:53:18,334 - I tried to find out what was going on, - I tried to find out what was going on,
2142 01:53:18,501 01:53:21,253 and then I heard the stories that he was in California, and then I heard the stories that he was in California,
2143 01:53:21,420 01:53:25,049 driving along the coast in a convertible Rolls-Royce, driving along the coast in a convertible Rolls-Royce,
2144 01:53:25,216 01:53:29,470 enjoying his life with his sunglasses and his hands out, enjoying his life with his sunglasses and his hands out,
2145 01:53:30,930 01:53:32,473 enjoying the breeze. enjoying the breeze.
2146 01:53:33,891 01:53:35,392 That's how I see him. That's how I see him.
2147 01:54:31,532 01:54:36,328 (epic music) (epic music)
2148 01:54:41,375 01:54:46,005 - He passed away the night of the Academy Awards, actually. - He passed away the night of the Academy Awards, actually.
2149 01:54:46,755 01:54:49,008 And his name was up on a television screen. And his name was up on a television screen.
2150 01:55:00,853 01:55:03,606 We had a beautiful ceremony, We had a beautiful ceremony,
2151 01:55:03,772 01:55:06,984 and we played Fanfare for a Common Man. and we played Fanfare for a Common Man.
2152 01:55:07,151 01:55:10,863 ("Fanfare for the Common Man") ("Fanfare for the Common Man")
2153 01:55:13,157 01:55:14,450 Halston was a common man. Halston was a common man.
2154 01:55:14,617 01:55:16,160 He came from nowhere. He came from nowhere.
2155 01:55:17,786 01:55:21,582 At the end, he said, "I just wanna fade away." At the end, he said, "I just wanna fade away."
2156 01:55:21,749 01:55:25,586 But as somebody like him, he couldn't just fade away. But as somebody like him, he couldn't just fade away.
2157 01:55:29,965 01:55:31,258 - The death of a great American designer. - The death of a great American designer.
2158 01:55:31,425 01:55:33,093 His name was Halston. His name was Halston.
2159 01:55:33,260 01:55:35,471 He was only 57 when he died in California. He was only 57 when he died in California.
2160 01:55:35,638 01:55:37,681 Yesterday he died as the result of AIDS. Yesterday he died as the result of AIDS.
2161 01:55:37,848 01:55:39,016 - With AIDS. - The cause, - With AIDS. - The cause,
2162 01:55:39,183 01:55:40,601 AIDS-related cancer. AIDS-related cancer.
2163 01:55:40,768 01:55:44,605 - We profoundly hope that it has a positive impact - We profoundly hope that it has a positive impact
2164 01:55:44,772 01:55:47,232 on the public in becoming increasingly aware on the public in becoming increasingly aware
2165 01:55:47,399 01:55:50,319 of this terrible problem, and doing something about it. of this terrible problem, and doing something about it.
2166 01:55:50,486 01:55:53,030 (upbeat music) (upbeat music)
2167 01:55:57,951 01:55:59,662 - Five months later, - Five months later,
2168 01:55:59,828 01:56:04,041 Halston Enterprises closed its Olympic Tower headquarters. Halston Enterprises closed its Olympic Tower headquarters.
2169 01:56:04,500 01:56:07,044 (audio screeching) (audio screeching)
2170 01:56:09,880 01:56:11,715 Today, fashion is fast. Today, fashion is fast.
2171 01:56:13,926 01:56:18,555 And high up above the streets, in his beloved Olympic Tower, And high up above the streets, in his beloved Olympic Tower,
2172 01:56:21,266 01:56:23,227 a private investment firm. a private investment firm.
2173 01:56:25,562 01:56:27,898 It's morning again in America. It's morning again in America.
2174 01:56:30,317 01:56:33,070 - Does it look pretty much the same? - Does it look pretty much the same?
2175 01:56:35,197 01:56:37,074 - Oh, sure it's fun and it's not fun, - Oh, sure it's fun and it's not fun,
2176 01:56:37,241 01:56:40,494 and it's upbeat and downbeat and everything else, you know. and it's upbeat and downbeat and everything else, you know.
2177 01:56:40,661 01:56:44,540 But as my mother says, it's the price you have to pay. But as my mother says, it's the price you have to pay.
2178 01:56:45,874 01:56:46,583 Thank you. Thank you.
2179 01:56:48,419 01:56:49,253 Okay? Okay?
2180 01:56:49,420 01:56:50,254 It's a wrap. (laughing) It's a wrap. (laughing)
2181 01:57:06,353 01:57:11,108 ♪ I am for a life around the corner ♪ ♪ I am for a life around the corner ♪
2182 01:57:11,525 01:57:15,946 ♪ That takes you by surprise ♪ ♪ That takes you by surprise ♪
2183 01:57:16,113 01:57:20,492 ♪ That comes leaves all you need ♪ ♪ That comes leaves all you need ♪
2184 01:57:20,659 01:57:22,870 ♪ And more besides ♪ ♪ And more besides ♪
2185 01:57:23,036 01:57:27,708 ♪ I am for a life and time by numbers ♪ ♪ I am for a life and time by numbers ♪
2186 01:57:28,417 01:57:32,796 ♪ Blast in fast and low ♪ ♪ Blast in fast and low ♪
2187 01:57:32,963 01:57:37,050 ♪ Add 'em up, account for luck ♪ ♪ Add 'em up, account for luck ♪
2188 01:57:37,217 01:57:39,636 ♪ You never know ♪ ♪ You never know ♪
2189 01:57:39,803 01:57:44,767 ♪ I am into friendship and plain sailing ♪ ♪ I am into friendship and plain sailing ♪
2190 01:57:44,933 01:57:49,146 ♪ Through frenzied ports o'call ♪ ♪ Through frenzied ports o'call ♪
2191 01:57:49,313 01:57:53,525 ♪ O shake the hand to beat the band ♪ ♪ O shake the hand to beat the band ♪
2192 01:57:53,692 01:57:56,195 ♪ With love is all ♪ ♪ With love is all ♪
2193 01:57:56,361 01:58:00,991 ♪ Or nothing to the man who wants tomorrow ♪ ♪ Or nothing to the man who wants tomorrow ♪
2194 01:58:01,617 01:58:05,871 ♪ There's one in every town ♪ ♪ There's one in every town ♪
2195 01:58:06,038 01:58:10,417 ♪ A crazy guy, he'd rather die ♪ ♪ A crazy guy, he'd rather die ♪
2196 01:58:10,584 01:58:13,170 ♪ Than be tied down ♪ ♪ Than be tied down ♪
2197 01:58:13,337 01:58:18,091 ♪ I am for the man who drives the hammer ♪ ♪ I am for the man who drives the hammer ♪
2198 01:58:18,258 01:58:22,638 ♪ To rock you till the grave ♪ ♪ To rock you till the grave ♪
2199 01:58:22,805 01:58:29,394 ♪ His power drill shocks a million miles away ♪ ♪ His power drill shocks a million miles away ♪
2200 01:58:29,978 01:58:34,858 ♪ I am for the revolution's coming ♪ ♪ I am for the revolution's coming ♪
2201 01:58:35,025 01:58:39,238 ♪ I don't know where she's been ♪ ♪ I don't know where she's been ♪
2202 01:58:39,404 01:58:41,698 ♪ For those who dare... ♪ ♪ For those who dare... ♪