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1 00:00:02,680 00:00:06,280 For centuries, pilgrimage was one of the greatest adventures. For centuries, pilgrimage was one of the greatest adventures.
2 00:00:08,440 00:00:10,560 Epic journeys around the country... Epic journeys around the country...
3 00:00:12,920 00:00:17,000 You're going the wrong way. This is the Pilgrim's Way to Canterbury! You're going the wrong way. This is the Pilgrim's Way to Canterbury!
4 00:00:17,000 00:00:18,240 ..and across the world! ..and across the world!
5 00:00:28,880 00:00:30,960 'I'll be retracing the steps of our ancestors.' 'I'll be retracing the steps of our ancestors.'
6 00:00:33,000 00:00:34,360 Oh! Oh!
7 00:00:35,960 00:00:40,400 It's the spot where Jesus is said to have been born. It's the spot where Jesus is said to have been born.
8 00:00:42,040 00:00:44,200 'Exploring the hidden...' 'Exploring the hidden...'
9 00:00:45,200 00:00:48,480 Some people might think this is quite macabre. Some people might think this is quite macabre.
10 00:00:48,480 00:00:50,920 '..and the darker side of pilgrimage.' '..and the darker side of pilgrimage.'
11 00:00:50,920 00:00:54,760 What this gives a sense of is the scale of prostitution. What this gives a sense of is the scale of prostitution.
12 00:00:55,760 00:01:00,240 And discovering why so many modern pilgrims are taking to the road. And discovering why so many modern pilgrims are taking to the road.
13 00:01:00,240 00:01:02,960 Come on, now, that was incredible! Come on, now, that was incredible!
14 00:01:04,360 00:01:08,480 My journey has taken me from the north of England to Canterbury. My journey has taken me from the north of England to Canterbury.
15 00:01:08,480 00:01:10,120 On this leg, I'm travelling through On this leg, I'm travelling through
16 00:01:10,120 00:01:13,360 France into northern Spain, Switzerland and on to Rome. France into northern Spain, Switzerland and on to Rome.
17 00:01:14,600 00:01:15,680 Rome! Rome!
18 00:01:18,120 00:01:21,120 Then I'll journey east into Turkey, across the Mediterranean Then I'll journey east into Turkey, across the Mediterranean
19 00:01:21,120 00:01:25,120 into the Holy Land, to my final destination...Jerusalem. into the Holy Land, to my final destination...Jerusalem.
20 00:01:27,680 00:01:30,280 It's a gobsmacker. It's a breath-taker-awayer. It's a gobsmacker. It's a breath-taker-awayer.
21 00:01:47,200 00:01:49,880 I was close to the coast in northern France. I was close to the coast in northern France.
22 00:01:49,880 00:01:53,320 For centuries, pilgrims from the British Isles have arrived here For centuries, pilgrims from the British Isles have arrived here
23 00:01:53,320 00:01:54,840 on the mainland of Europe, on the mainland of Europe,
24 00:01:54,840 00:01:57,240 and begun epic treks across the Continent. and begun epic treks across the Continent.
25 00:02:02,960 00:02:05,720 They went on arduous journeys in search of shrines They went on arduous journeys in search of shrines
26 00:02:05,720 00:02:08,640 and holy sites, along well-trodden paths. and holy sites, along well-trodden paths.
27 00:02:11,520 00:02:14,040 I do LOVE the simple act of walking. I do LOVE the simple act of walking.
28 00:02:15,040 00:02:16,840 Much underrated now, when we can Much underrated now, when we can
29 00:02:16,840 00:02:20,320 all just jump in our cars and go anywhere. all just jump in our cars and go anywhere.
30 00:02:20,320 00:02:25,400 One foot in front of the other, the rhythm soon emerges. One foot in front of the other, the rhythm soon emerges.
31 00:02:26,880 00:02:31,400 Many British and European pilgrims were inspired by religious devotion, Many British and European pilgrims were inspired by religious devotion,
32 00:02:31,400 00:02:35,720 but some were also looking for excitement, romance and adventure. but some were also looking for excitement, romance and adventure.
33 00:02:35,720 00:02:38,840 In the 9th century, priests were criticised for going on pilgrimage In the 9th century, priests were criticised for going on pilgrimage
34 00:02:38,840 00:02:40,080 just to escape their duties. just to escape their duties.
35 00:02:41,640 00:02:44,400 In the 13th century, a French bishop complained people were In the 13th century, a French bishop complained people were
36 00:02:44,400 00:02:48,560 going on pilgrimage out of mere curiosity and the love of novelty. going on pilgrimage out of mere curiosity and the love of novelty.
37 00:02:48,560 00:02:51,000 They weren't so unlike us. They weren't so unlike us.
38 00:02:52,320 00:02:55,120 The thrill of travelling in foreign lands still draws people The thrill of travelling in foreign lands still draws people
39 00:02:55,120 00:02:56,920 to ancient pilgrim routes today. to ancient pilgrim routes today.
40 00:02:56,920 00:02:58,800 I met up with Ian Broderick I met up with Ian Broderick
41 00:02:58,800 00:03:02,000 who's walked thousands of miles across the Continent. who's walked thousands of miles across the Continent.
42 00:03:03,000 00:03:05,680 I've walked along this coast to Rome and Jerusalem. I've walked along this coast to Rome and Jerusalem.
43 00:03:05,680 00:03:07,880 You've walked to Jerusalem?! You've walked to Jerusalem?!
44 00:03:07,880 00:03:09,880 I have, indeed. I have, indeed.
45 00:03:09,880 00:03:13,600 My goodness. That's... I find that very inspiring. My goodness. That's... I find that very inspiring.
46 00:03:13,600 00:03:16,720 Yes, surprising, isn't it? SIMON LAUGHS Yes, surprising, isn't it? SIMON LAUGHS
47 00:03:16,720 00:03:20,960 When you go on your epic walks, When you go on your epic walks,
48 00:03:20,960 00:03:25,520 are you going for reasons of piety and devotion are you going for reasons of piety and devotion
49 00:03:25,520 00:03:27,560 or for adventure as well? or for adventure as well?
50 00:03:27,560 00:03:30,560 To define pilgrimage is a very complicated thing. To define pilgrimage is a very complicated thing.
51 00:03:30,560 00:03:31,760 It can be many things, It can be many things,
52 00:03:31,760 00:03:36,800 and the modern pilgrim isn't a purely devotional Christian pilgrim. and the modern pilgrim isn't a purely devotional Christian pilgrim.
53 00:03:36,800 00:03:40,960 We walk with more intention of discovery. We walk with more intention of discovery.
54 00:03:40,960 00:03:45,000 A lot of people say that pilgrimage mimics life. It's difficult, A lot of people say that pilgrimage mimics life. It's difficult,
55 00:03:45,000 00:03:47,680 it's tiring and there are events that surprise us, it's tiring and there are events that surprise us,
56 00:03:47,680 00:03:50,560 but the thing that I think surprises a lot of people but the thing that I think surprises a lot of people
57 00:03:50,560 00:03:53,880 is HOW they are on a pilgrimage and what happens to them. is HOW they are on a pilgrimage and what happens to them.
58 00:03:53,880 00:03:57,400 There's absolutely no hiding place on a pilgrimage There's absolutely no hiding place on a pilgrimage
59 00:03:57,400 00:03:59,080 if you're honest with yourself. if you're honest with yourself.
60 00:03:59,080 00:04:02,360 Because you're alone with your thoughts and your...? Because you're alone with your thoughts and your...?
61 00:04:02,360 00:04:05,560 And everything. Your emotions, aspirations and hopes. And everything. Your emotions, aspirations and hopes.
62 00:04:05,560 00:04:08,880 It's all there while you're walking. It unfolds with you. It's all there while you're walking. It unfolds with you.
63 00:04:15,640 00:04:18,760 I found Ian and what he's done really inspiring. I found Ian and what he's done really inspiring.
64 00:04:18,760 00:04:20,600 I think most people - I think most people -
65 00:04:20,600 00:04:23,160 if they'd heard there's someone who's walked to Jerusalem - if they'd heard there's someone who's walked to Jerusalem -
66 00:04:23,160 00:04:25,320 would think they're completely bonkers, would think they're completely bonkers,
67 00:04:25,320 00:04:26,680 but, of course, Ian's right. but, of course, Ian's right.
68 00:04:26,680 00:04:32,120 Travelling over land on foot is by far the most exciting Travelling over land on foot is by far the most exciting
69 00:04:32,120 00:04:34,200 and interesting and memorable way and interesting and memorable way
70 00:04:34,200 00:04:36,680 to engage with a country and a landscape. to engage with a country and a landscape.
71 00:04:38,040 00:04:42,120 He has had experience and racked up memories the like of which He has had experience and racked up memories the like of which
72 00:04:42,120 00:04:44,960 most people can't even begin to imagine. most people can't even begin to imagine.
73 00:04:52,640 00:04:56,520 The 500 years up to the early 16th century are considered The 500 years up to the early 16th century are considered
74 00:04:56,520 00:04:58,840 the golden age of pilgrimage in Europe. the golden age of pilgrimage in Europe.
75 00:04:58,840 00:05:02,040 In some years, a fifth of the population of the Continent In some years, a fifth of the population of the Continent
76 00:05:02,040 00:05:04,440 was either on pilgrimage or directly involved was either on pilgrimage or directly involved
77 00:05:04,440 00:05:06,640 in the industry of inns and churches and hostels in the industry of inns and churches and hostels
78 00:05:06,640 00:05:08,520 that sprung up around it. that sprung up around it.
79 00:05:09,760 00:05:11,520 As pilgrim numbers increased, As pilgrim numbers increased,
80 00:05:11,520 00:05:15,320 villages near popular shrines developed into towns. villages near popular shrines developed into towns.
81 00:05:15,320 00:05:17,040 Pilgrimage helped to shape Europe. Pilgrimage helped to shape Europe.
82 00:05:20,240 00:05:22,920 I've reached the small town of Saint-Omer, I've reached the small town of Saint-Omer,
83 00:05:22,920 00:05:25,160 which is probably one of the first places which is probably one of the first places
84 00:05:25,160 00:05:28,360 that British pilgrims coming to France would have arrived in. that British pilgrims coming to France would have arrived in.
85 00:05:29,520 00:05:31,400 They'd have headed for the cathedral. They'd have headed for the cathedral.
86 00:05:33,840 00:05:36,600 The town of Saint-Omer is just 30 miles inland The town of Saint-Omer is just 30 miles inland
87 00:05:36,600 00:05:38,280 from the English Channel. from the English Channel.
88 00:05:39,600 00:05:42,560 I followed in the footsteps of medieval pilgrims, who would have I followed in the footsteps of medieval pilgrims, who would have
89 00:05:42,560 00:05:45,880 marked their journeys with regular stops for prayers along the way. marked their journeys with regular stops for prayers along the way.
90 00:05:47,600 00:05:49,640 HE GASPS HE GASPS
91 00:05:57,280 00:06:00,160 (There are three people here praying.) (There are three people here praying.)
92 00:06:02,600 00:06:05,240 The cathedral was built and added to The cathedral was built and added to
93 00:06:05,240 00:06:08,560 between the 13th and 16th centuries. between the 13th and 16th centuries.
94 00:06:10,200 00:06:13,640 It's since survived the ravages of war and revolution It's since survived the ravages of war and revolution
95 00:06:13,640 00:06:17,720 and remains a fairly spectacular bit of Gothic architecture. and remains a fairly spectacular bit of Gothic architecture.
96 00:06:24,280 00:06:28,720 There is something awe-inspiring about... There is something awe-inspiring about...
97 00:06:28,720 00:06:31,520 cathedrals on a scale like this. cathedrals on a scale like this.
98 00:06:31,520 00:06:35,520 But cathedrals needed to make sure visitors kept coming. But cathedrals needed to make sure visitors kept coming.
99 00:06:37,320 00:06:43,200 A church like this would have really benefited from advertising A church like this would have really benefited from advertising
100 00:06:43,200 00:06:45,840 the potential and power of its relic. the potential and power of its relic.
101 00:06:45,840 00:06:49,840 Now a relic would be a bit of a saint or even a bit of cloth Now a relic would be a bit of a saint or even a bit of cloth
102 00:06:49,840 00:06:51,880 worn by a saint. worn by a saint.
103 00:06:51,880 00:06:55,120 A church wanted to have one that people believed in A church wanted to have one that people believed in
104 00:06:55,120 00:06:56,560 because if they believed in it, because if they believed in it,
105 00:06:56,560 00:07:00,040 then they would travel a great distance to witness it, then they would travel a great distance to witness it,
106 00:07:00,040 00:07:03,840 to try and touch it, and, of course, pilgrims meant money. to try and touch it, and, of course, pilgrims meant money.
107 00:07:03,840 00:07:07,440 It meant money for the upkeep of the church, but also the wealth It meant money for the upkeep of the church, but also the wealth
108 00:07:07,440 00:07:11,040 and prosperity of the community around it, so relics had and prosperity of the community around it, so relics had
109 00:07:11,040 00:07:14,720 an enormous religious power, but also an economic power as well. an enormous religious power, but also an economic power as well.
110 00:07:16,000 00:07:19,400 The relic here is the tomb of Saint Erkembode, The relic here is the tomb of Saint Erkembode,
111 00:07:19,400 00:07:23,280 a 7th century Irish monk who became the bishop of the area. a 7th century Irish monk who became the bishop of the area.
112 00:07:23,280 00:07:26,160 He spent much of his time travelling huge distances on foot He spent much of his time travelling huge distances on foot
113 00:07:26,160 00:07:27,920 helping the poor. helping the poor.
114 00:07:27,920 00:07:31,520 By the end of his life, his devotion had left him unable to walk. By the end of his life, his devotion had left him unable to walk.
115 00:07:31,520 00:07:33,720 He became the patron saint of children who have He became the patron saint of children who have
116 00:07:33,720 00:07:37,520 difficulties in walking, and pilgrims came here hoping for cures. difficulties in walking, and pilgrims came here hoping for cures.
117 00:07:37,520 00:07:39,440 To my surprise, they still do. To my surprise, they still do.
118 00:07:39,440 00:07:44,440 There's a prayer here. It says, "Pray for our little baby." There's a prayer here. It says, "Pray for our little baby."
119 00:07:45,800 00:07:47,840 He's five-years-old. He's not well. He's five-years-old. He's not well.
120 00:07:47,840 00:07:51,120 He has to have surgery soon on his legs. He has to have surgery soon on his legs.
121 00:07:57,240 00:07:59,640 I've got a two-year-old son. I've got a two-year-old son.
122 00:07:59,640 00:08:03,960 He has...shoes that are of a similar size to this. He has...shoes that are of a similar size to this.
123 00:08:03,960 00:08:05,280 I find it almost... I find it almost...
124 00:08:06,600 00:08:08,760 It is heartbreaking to see this. It is heartbreaking to see this.
125 00:08:10,840 00:08:15,600 And I know that if he had a problem, there is nothing I would not do. And I know that if he had a problem, there is nothing I would not do.
126 00:08:15,600 00:08:17,800 There would be no lengths I wouldn't go to. There would be no lengths I wouldn't go to.
127 00:08:17,800 00:08:21,120 No God I wouldn't pray to... No God I wouldn't pray to...
128 00:08:21,120 00:08:23,040 to try and get help for him. to try and get help for him.
129 00:08:26,240 00:08:29,560 I can almost sense the desperation I can almost sense the desperation
130 00:08:29,560 00:08:32,200 that accompanies the placing of these shoes. that accompanies the placing of these shoes.
131 00:08:33,360 00:08:35,960 We cling to hope at difficult times. We cling to hope at difficult times.
132 00:08:39,280 00:08:44,880 And I sense that's what a lot of these shoes signify. And I sense that's what a lot of these shoes signify.
133 00:08:52,120 00:08:56,680 We're speeding across France. It's such a lovely way to travel. We're speeding across France. It's such a lovely way to travel.
134 00:09:02,600 00:09:07,760 Got a little map which shows modern pilgrimage routes across Europe, Got a little map which shows modern pilgrimage routes across Europe,
135 00:09:07,760 00:09:10,520 but they're all based on ancient routes... but they're all based on ancient routes...
136 00:09:12,000 00:09:15,920 ..and what I find really fascinating is just how they form ..and what I find really fascinating is just how they form
137 00:09:15,920 00:09:19,240 an almost web across the Continent. an almost web across the Continent.
138 00:09:21,720 00:09:28,000 The pilgrimage routes across Europe became our major routes The pilgrimage routes across Europe became our major routes
139 00:09:28,000 00:09:29,760 and motorways today. and motorways today.
140 00:09:31,360 00:09:33,720 In Western Europe there are now believed to be In Western Europe there are now believed to be
141 00:09:33,720 00:09:36,280 more than 6,000 pilgrimage sites. more than 6,000 pilgrimage sites.
142 00:09:36,280 00:09:38,800 They attract tens of millions of visitors every year, They attract tens of millions of visitors every year,
143 00:09:38,800 00:09:40,840 helping to drive tourism and travel. helping to drive tourism and travel.
144 00:09:41,960 00:09:45,000 I was heading towards a Spanish town that, by the early 12th century, I was heading towards a Spanish town that, by the early 12th century,
145 00:09:45,000 00:09:47,280 ranked alongside Rome and even Jerusalem ranked alongside Rome and even Jerusalem
146 00:09:47,280 00:09:49,120 as one of the holiest places on Earth. as one of the holiest places on Earth.
147 00:09:50,120 00:09:54,080 To get there, pilgrims followed an ancient route known as the Camino. To get there, pilgrims followed an ancient route known as the Camino.
148 00:09:55,680 00:09:58,640 It stretches over 500 miles. It stretches over 500 miles.
149 00:09:58,640 00:10:02,040 Starting in France, it climbs over the Pyrenees, winds through Starting in France, it climbs over the Pyrenees, winds through
150 00:10:02,040 00:10:06,320 northern Spain, and finishes in the Holy City of Santiago de Compostela. northern Spain, and finishes in the Holy City of Santiago de Compostela.
151 00:10:09,320 00:10:12,240 I arrived in the French border town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, I arrived in the French border town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port,
152 00:10:12,240 00:10:15,400 bustling with pilgrims preparing for their epic trek bustling with pilgrims preparing for their epic trek
153 00:10:15,400 00:10:18,360 along the Camino route to Santiago. along the Camino route to Santiago.
154 00:10:19,520 00:10:25,040 It's quite ironic, really, how a town like this now makes It's quite ironic, really, how a town like this now makes
155 00:10:25,040 00:10:29,760 such a living off the new pilgrims who aren't just tourists, such a living off the new pilgrims who aren't just tourists,
156 00:10:29,760 00:10:34,080 I suppose, they are adventure hikers in many respects. I suppose, they are adventure hikers in many respects.
157 00:10:35,440 00:10:37,280 Travelling has never been easier, Travelling has never been easier,
158 00:10:37,280 00:10:40,000 but the Camino is still drawing people from across the world, but the Camino is still drawing people from across the world,
159 00:10:40,000 00:10:44,200 who want to make the journey by foot the old-fashioned way. who want to make the journey by foot the old-fashioned way.
160 00:10:45,360 00:10:49,160 It also seems to attract a certain hardy and determined type. It also seems to attract a certain hardy and determined type.
161 00:10:49,160 00:10:51,120 I bumped into Lorna Jeanne, I bumped into Lorna Jeanne,
162 00:10:51,120 00:10:53,680 who as a child was caught in a house fire in her home. who as a child was caught in a house fire in her home.
163 00:10:53,680 00:10:55,720 Yeah, my parents... Yeah, my parents...
164 00:10:55,720 00:10:59,560 The house blew up and I was trapped inside, but... The house blew up and I was trapped inside, but...
165 00:10:59,560 00:11:01,600 Have you had many operations? Have you had many operations?
166 00:11:01,600 00:11:06,440 Oh, yeah. In the first nine months, 72. They lost count after that. Oh, yeah. In the first nine months, 72. They lost count after that.
167 00:11:06,440 00:11:09,600 72 operations? In the first nine months. 72 operations? In the first nine months.
168 00:11:09,600 00:11:13,200 That's the first nine... And do you still have to have surgeries? That's the first nine... And do you still have to have surgeries?
169 00:11:13,200 00:11:14,680 I should, but I don't... I should, but I don't...
170 00:11:14,680 00:11:17,160 I don't want to take the time out to be laid up. I don't want to take the time out to be laid up.
171 00:11:17,160 00:11:21,280 The time out of life? Yeah. I don't let anything get in my way. The time out of life? Yeah. I don't let anything get in my way.
172 00:11:21,280 00:11:23,440 Just look out, here I come! SHE LAUGHS Just look out, here I come! SHE LAUGHS
173 00:11:24,840 00:11:28,400 The Camino has become one of the most popular long distance The Camino has become one of the most popular long distance
174 00:11:28,400 00:11:30,440 pilgrimage routes in the world. pilgrimage routes in the world.
175 00:11:30,440 00:11:33,400 Nearly 200,000 hikers and bikers Nearly 200,000 hikers and bikers
176 00:11:33,400 00:11:36,880 completed the 500-mile route in 2012 alone. completed the 500-mile route in 2012 alone.
177 00:11:37,880 00:11:40,400 Don't let the Toytown train deceive you. Don't let the Toytown train deceive you.
178 00:11:41,520 00:11:44,560 The rest of the walk to Santiago de Compostelo The rest of the walk to Santiago de Compostelo
179 00:11:44,560 00:11:47,640 won't be...a theme park ride. won't be...a theme park ride.
180 00:11:47,640 00:11:50,840 It's arduous, it's a tough walk. It's arduous, it's a tough walk.
181 00:11:56,240 00:11:59,200 We didn't have time for me to trek the entire route, We didn't have time for me to trek the entire route,
182 00:11:59,200 00:12:02,280 which can take a month to six weeks, which can take a month to six weeks,
183 00:12:02,280 00:12:05,200 but I was able to get a real sense of the journey, but I was able to get a real sense of the journey,
184 00:12:05,200 00:12:07,400 which ultimately leads to a shrine which ultimately leads to a shrine
185 00:12:07,400 00:12:10,800 dedicated to one of the 12 apostles of Jesus. dedicated to one of the 12 apostles of Jesus.
186 00:12:10,800 00:12:14,440 In the 9th century, a Spanish bishop made the rather surprising In the 9th century, a Spanish bishop made the rather surprising
187 00:12:14,440 00:12:16,000 announcement that the remains of announcement that the remains of
188 00:12:16,000 00:12:20,440 St James had been found in what's now Santiago de Compostela. St James had been found in what's now Santiago de Compostela.
189 00:12:20,440 00:12:23,240 Countless pilgrims have since walked this way. Countless pilgrims have since walked this way.
190 00:12:23,240 00:12:27,480 Just look at the wind playing across the field here. Just look at the wind playing across the field here.
191 00:12:30,920 00:12:33,680 Most medieval Christians believed their place in heaven Most medieval Christians believed their place in heaven
192 00:12:33,680 00:12:36,800 would be secured if they embarked on journeys of endurance, would be secured if they embarked on journeys of endurance,
193 00:12:36,800 00:12:38,320 suffering and sacrifice. suffering and sacrifice.
194 00:12:42,360 00:12:45,320 Look at the countryside here that you walk through. Look at the countryside here that you walk through.
195 00:12:45,320 00:12:48,960 It doesn't entirely strike me as penance. It doesn't entirely strike me as penance.
196 00:12:53,320 00:12:56,720 By the 13th century, around half a million pilgrims a year By the 13th century, around half a million pilgrims a year
197 00:12:56,720 00:12:59,000 were walking to Santiago. were walking to Santiago.
198 00:12:59,000 00:13:01,800 An astonishing figure when the entire population of Europe An astonishing figure when the entire population of Europe
199 00:13:01,800 00:13:03,760 was little more than 70 million. was little more than 70 million.
200 00:13:03,760 00:13:07,560 The economic benefits to communities along the route were enormous. The economic benefits to communities along the route were enormous.
201 00:13:07,560 00:13:09,200 Pilgrimage wasn't cheap. Pilgrimage wasn't cheap.
202 00:13:09,200 00:13:12,720 There was food, donations, and places to stay to be paid for. There was food, donations, and places to stay to be paid for.
203 00:13:12,720 00:13:14,400 Most travellers had to pay tolls, Most travellers had to pay tolls,
204 00:13:14,400 00:13:17,840 but the pilgrims were supposed to be exempt. but the pilgrims were supposed to be exempt.
205 00:13:17,840 00:13:21,240 It was a system that didn't always work as it was supposed to, It was a system that didn't always work as it was supposed to,
206 00:13:21,240 00:13:26,360 so sometimes merchants pretended to be pilgrims, and sometimes pilgrims so sometimes merchants pretended to be pilgrims, and sometimes pilgrims
207 00:13:26,360 00:13:29,560 were unlawfully charged when they should have been allowed to travel were unlawfully charged when they should have been allowed to travel
208 00:13:29,560 00:13:33,560 for free, but there was a system, even if sometimes it broke down. for free, but there was a system, even if sometimes it broke down.
209 00:13:36,200 00:13:39,440 This is the town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, This is the town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada,
210 00:13:39,440 00:13:41,840 which developed to cater for pilgrims. which developed to cater for pilgrims.
211 00:13:41,840 00:13:45,200 The cathedral adopted a local legend as a real miracle. The cathedral adopted a local legend as a real miracle.
212 00:13:45,200 00:13:48,120 Even today, it encourages pilgrims in through the doors. Even today, it encourages pilgrims in through the doors.
213 00:13:49,320 00:13:54,560 The eye is initially drawn to this incredible shrine here. The eye is initially drawn to this incredible shrine here.
214 00:13:54,560 00:13:56,680 A vision in gold. A vision in gold.
215 00:13:56,680 00:13:58,280 But in reality, But in reality,
216 00:13:58,280 00:14:01,560 most people come here to have a look at this over here. most people come here to have a look at this over here.
217 00:14:03,840 00:14:06,120 COCKEREL CROWS COCKEREL CROWS
218 00:14:06,120 00:14:07,200 Chickens! Chickens!
219 00:14:14,200 00:14:15,560 This is a bit bonkers. This is a bit bonkers.
220 00:14:17,520 00:14:20,200 There is a long story behind this. There is a long story behind this.
221 00:14:20,200 00:14:23,840 Basically, a young man was unjustly hung Basically, a young man was unjustly hung
222 00:14:23,840 00:14:26,000 and even though he was still swinging and even though he was still swinging
223 00:14:26,000 00:14:29,560 with his head in the noose, his parents realised he was still alive with his head in the noose, his parents realised he was still alive
224 00:14:29,560 00:14:32,760 and they ran to see the local judge and said, and they ran to see the local judge and said,
225 00:14:32,760 00:14:36,320 "Our son was wrongly hanged and he's still alive", and the judge said "Our son was wrongly hanged and he's still alive", and the judge said
226 00:14:36,320 00:14:41,720 "Nonsense! Your son is no more alive than this roast chicken that I'm eating here." "Nonsense! Your son is no more alive than this roast chicken that I'm eating here."
227 00:14:41,720 00:14:43,880 At which point, the chicken came back to life, At which point, the chicken came back to life,
228 00:14:43,880 00:14:46,600 jumped up and walked around on the table. jumped up and walked around on the table.
229 00:14:46,600 00:14:48,760 COCKEREL CROWS COCKEREL CROWS
230 00:14:50,120 00:14:52,360 It's not a story I really like actually, It's not a story I really like actually,
231 00:14:52,360 00:14:55,720 because I tend to think of our ancestors as being not that because I tend to think of our ancestors as being not that
232 00:14:55,720 00:14:58,160 dissimilar from us, and perhaps being a bit wise dissimilar from us, and perhaps being a bit wise
233 00:14:58,160 00:15:02,880 and cynical as well, but this story suggests they'd believe anything. and cynical as well, but this story suggests they'd believe anything.
234 00:15:08,320 00:15:13,240 It is very relevant to pilgrimage in the spreading of stories. It is very relevant to pilgrimage in the spreading of stories.
235 00:15:13,240 00:15:19,480 It does suggest to me that however unbelievable a tale might be, It does suggest to me that however unbelievable a tale might be,
236 00:15:19,480 00:15:24,320 if it has strong religious tones to it, if it has strong religious tones to it,
237 00:15:24,320 00:15:28,040 then a cathedral will stick with it, go with it, then a cathedral will stick with it, go with it,
238 00:15:28,040 00:15:30,680 and make of it as much as they can. and make of it as much as they can.
239 00:15:41,040 00:15:42,760 Camino! Camino!
240 00:15:46,320 00:15:49,600 By the 16th century, the Camino was in decline, By the 16th century, the Camino was in decline,
241 00:15:49,600 00:15:52,400 caused partly by outbreaks of disease and war caused partly by outbreaks of disease and war
242 00:15:52,400 00:15:55,000 and the rise of Protestant Christianity, and the rise of Protestant Christianity,
243 00:15:55,000 00:15:57,120 which was opposed to pilgrimage. which was opposed to pilgrimage.
244 00:15:57,120 00:16:00,480 But in the last 30 years, the Camino's been revived. But in the last 30 years, the Camino's been revived.
245 00:16:00,480 00:16:03,080 Travellers have increased 100-fold. Travellers have increased 100-fold.
246 00:16:03,080 00:16:05,440 How much weight are you carrying on there? How much weight are you carrying on there?
247 00:16:05,440 00:16:08,160 I think maybe 15 with the water. I think maybe 15 with the water.
248 00:16:08,160 00:16:11,480 15 kilograms? Yeah. How much is Julie carrying? 15 kilograms? Yeah. How much is Julie carrying?
249 00:16:11,480 00:16:12,520 Maybe two? Maybe two?
250 00:16:12,520 00:16:14,280 THEY LAUGH THEY LAUGH
251 00:16:15,400 00:16:17,960 I met an Australian couple, Julie and Owen, I met an Australian couple, Julie and Owen,
252 00:16:17,960 00:16:20,160 who were ten days into their Camino. who were ten days into their Camino.
253 00:16:21,720 00:16:25,320 It's a unique way to see a country. It's a unique way to see a country.
254 00:16:25,320 00:16:27,760 The fact that it happens over a span of days, The fact that it happens over a span of days,
255 00:16:27,760 00:16:30,840 it gives you a really different sort of outlook on it. it gives you a really different sort of outlook on it.
256 00:16:30,840 00:16:32,320 It's amazing. It's amazing.
257 00:16:32,320 00:16:35,120 Are you both people of faith? Are you both people of faith?
258 00:16:35,120 00:16:37,240 No, it's secular. No, it's secular.
259 00:16:37,240 00:16:40,280 It's a bit of a self discovery and a kind of a... It's a bit of a self discovery and a kind of a...
260 00:16:40,280 00:16:45,000 a...you know, relationship exercise in a way. a...you know, relationship exercise in a way.
261 00:16:45,000 00:16:48,680 I don't want to be too cheeky, but what do you mean? I don't want to be too cheeky, but what do you mean?
262 00:16:48,680 00:16:49,760 I don't know. I don't know.
263 00:16:49,760 00:16:53,400 You know, you're with somebody all day, every day, You know, you're with somebody all day, every day,
264 00:16:53,400 00:16:56,320 and often completely isolated. and often completely isolated.
265 00:16:58,000 00:16:59,600 You know, and it's... You know, and it's...
266 00:16:59,600 00:17:01,480 I guess when you've reached your... I guess when you've reached your...
267 00:17:01,480 00:17:06,040 a bit of a pain threshold, you can get just a little bit testy, a bit of a pain threshold, you can get just a little bit testy,
268 00:17:06,040 00:17:08,920 but that's when the patience needs to come in. but that's when the patience needs to come in.
269 00:17:08,920 00:17:12,440 Yeah, and just go OK, it's all right, we're not on the schedule. Yeah, and just go OK, it's all right, we're not on the schedule.
270 00:17:12,440 00:17:14,360 We can rest if we need to. We can rest if we need to.
271 00:17:14,360 00:17:17,360 Walk with someone and you really, er, Walk with someone and you really, er,
272 00:17:17,360 00:17:20,840 you learn a lot about them and yourself. Mmm. you learn a lot about them and yourself. Mmm.
273 00:17:20,840 00:17:22,560 For better or worse. Yep. For better or worse. Yep.
274 00:17:33,360 00:17:36,400 Walking the Camino is about more than just putting one foot Walking the Camino is about more than just putting one foot
275 00:17:36,400 00:17:40,360 in front of the other, setting a target and reaching the destination. in front of the other, setting a target and reaching the destination.
276 00:17:43,360 00:17:46,480 The simple act of walking for hours, even days on end, The simple act of walking for hours, even days on end,
277 00:17:46,480 00:17:49,440 gives you something we don't often get in the 21st century - gives you something we don't often get in the 21st century -
278 00:17:49,440 00:17:50,840 a time to reflect. a time to reflect.
279 00:17:53,400 00:17:56,960 I suppose the most frightening thing for me about it is that I suppose the most frightening thing for me about it is that
280 00:17:56,960 00:18:00,560 you are left alone with your thoughts in many cases. you are left alone with your thoughts in many cases.
281 00:18:03,600 00:18:06,200 And personally, I find that frightening. And personally, I find that frightening.
282 00:18:06,200 00:18:09,040 It's not that I've got demons in my mind. It's not that I've got demons in my mind.
283 00:18:09,040 00:18:12,080 It's just so many things to think about. It's just so many things to think about.
284 00:18:13,640 00:18:15,080 So many life issues, So many life issues,
285 00:18:15,080 00:18:18,440 so many challenges I'll start to dwell on. so many challenges I'll start to dwell on.
286 00:18:20,480 00:18:23,600 We occupy ourselves so much now to try and We occupy ourselves so much now to try and
287 00:18:23,600 00:18:27,640 perhaps avoid considering aspects of life like that. perhaps avoid considering aspects of life like that.
288 00:18:27,640 00:18:31,120 We separate ourselves off from having to think about those We separate ourselves off from having to think about those
289 00:18:31,120 00:18:34,840 sort of things, and on a walk like this, on a pilgrimage, sort of things, and on a walk like this, on a pilgrimage,
290 00:18:34,840 00:18:37,360 on a long walk, you're confronted by them. on a long walk, you're confronted by them.
291 00:18:44,680 00:18:48,560 Around half those walking the Camino are no longer religious pilgrims. Around half those walking the Camino are no longer religious pilgrims.
292 00:18:48,560 00:18:52,040 At least in the medieval sense of penance and suffering. At least in the medieval sense of penance and suffering.
293 00:18:52,040 00:18:54,800 It seemed to me they're often well-off adventure hikers, It seemed to me they're often well-off adventure hikers,
294 00:18:54,800 00:18:57,680 seeking an experience they'll remember for ever. seeking an experience they'll remember for ever.
295 00:18:58,680 00:19:01,680 Many choose to stay overnight at one of the scores of pilgrim Many choose to stay overnight at one of the scores of pilgrim
296 00:19:01,680 00:19:03,000 hostels along the route. hostels along the route.
297 00:19:04,040 00:19:06,520 Wow. That's where we're going. Wow. That's where we're going.
298 00:19:08,640 00:19:11,400 There's a whole infrastructure along the Camino, catering There's a whole infrastructure along the Camino, catering
299 00:19:11,400 00:19:15,520 for the needs of modern travellers, just as there was in medieval times. for the needs of modern travellers, just as there was in medieval times.
300 00:19:17,960 00:19:19,800 Hola. Hola. Hola. Hola.
301 00:19:20,960 00:19:22,880 This is the hostel of San Nicolas. This is the hostel of San Nicolas.
302 00:19:27,400 00:19:28,840 Look at this place! Look at this place!
303 00:19:30,720 00:19:34,200 Macarrones. Pasta Italiana. Macarrones. Pasta Italiana.
304 00:19:34,200 00:19:37,800 It's run by a religious charity who provide weary pilgrims with It's run by a religious charity who provide weary pilgrims with
305 00:19:37,800 00:19:41,280 a hearty meal and a very welcome bed for the night. a hearty meal and a very welcome bed for the night.
306 00:19:41,280 00:19:43,000 Augusto. Augusto. Augusto. Augusto.
307 00:19:43,000 00:19:44,680 Augusto. Encantada. Augusto. Encantada.
308 00:19:44,680 00:19:46,760 Very nice to meet you. Habla ingles? Very nice to meet you. Habla ingles?
309 00:19:47,920 00:19:49,000 Very bit. Very bit.
310 00:19:49,000 00:19:50,840 Very bit. A little. Yeah, yeah. Very bit. A little. Yeah, yeah.
311 00:19:50,840 00:19:54,440 But you have a good firm handshake and that's what matters! But you have a good firm handshake and that's what matters!
312 00:19:56,000 00:19:59,600 BELL RINGS BELL RINGS
313 00:20:04,680 00:20:07,880 Before dinner, the hosts at this hostel gather everyone together Before dinner, the hosts at this hostel gather everyone together
314 00:20:07,880 00:20:09,880 to perform a religious ritual. to perform a religious ritual.
315 00:20:14,200 00:20:16,280 They're going to wash our feet. They're going to wash our feet.
316 00:20:16,280 00:20:18,080 One foot. One foot.
317 00:20:18,080 00:20:19,360 My goodness. My goodness.
318 00:20:22,440 00:20:25,480 Cleaning the smelly feet of two dozen hikers struck me Cleaning the smelly feet of two dozen hikers struck me
319 00:20:25,480 00:20:27,720 as an act of extreme penitence by the hosts. as an act of extreme penitence by the hosts.
320 00:20:29,040 00:20:31,960 HOST SPEAKS IN SPANISH HOST SPEAKS IN SPANISH
321 00:20:36,760 00:20:39,240 For me it was a rather humbling experience. For me it was a rather humbling experience.
322 00:20:41,480 00:20:44,080 Gracias. Gracias. Gracias. Gracias.
323 00:20:44,080 00:20:47,600 There was an intimate feel to the hostel that I really enjoyed. There was an intimate feel to the hostel that I really enjoyed.
324 00:20:47,600 00:20:50,520 It was a chance to share a meal and stories with fellow travellers It was a chance to share a meal and stories with fellow travellers
325 00:20:50,520 00:20:53,480 and discover their reasons for walking the Camino. and discover their reasons for walking the Camino.
326 00:21:01,560 00:21:04,840 Ramina and Natalia had come all the way from South America. Ramina and Natalia had come all the way from South America.
327 00:21:04,840 00:21:07,360 Can you tell us why you're doing this? Can you tell us why you're doing this?
328 00:21:13,960 00:21:16,440 Are you very religious? No. Are you very religious? No.
329 00:21:23,000 00:21:26,760 And it's a big meditation. All day you're walking, and your... And it's a big meditation. All day you're walking, and your...
330 00:21:26,760 00:21:30,560 all your head is doing... remember your family. all your head is doing... remember your family.
331 00:21:30,560 00:21:34,640 Remember your, I don't know, all your life goes through your head. Remember your, I don't know, all your life goes through your head.
332 00:21:34,640 00:21:40,840 All day long, because you're walking and you're alone, and it's good. All day long, because you're walking and you're alone, and it's good.
333 00:21:40,840 00:21:45,840 You think about lots of stuff you never did, or questioned before. You think about lots of stuff you never did, or questioned before.
334 00:21:48,040 00:21:50,680 Have you had moments while you've been walking Have you had moments while you've been walking
335 00:21:50,680 00:21:56,760 when you've been thinking almost too much and the tears start to flow? when you've been thinking almost too much and the tears start to flow?
336 00:21:56,760 00:21:59,040 No tears. No tears. No tears. No tears.
337 00:21:59,040 00:22:01,200 Angry! I want to get there. Angry! I want to get there.
338 00:22:02,440 00:22:03,760 It's very brave of you. It's very brave of you.
339 00:22:04,800 00:22:07,840 We are brave! It's OK. We are brave! It's OK.
340 00:22:16,440 00:22:22,200 There's a real community along the Camino that I haven't expected, There's a real community along the Camino that I haven't expected,
341 00:22:22,200 00:22:24,800 and been quite surprised to experience here. and been quite surprised to experience here.
342 00:22:27,080 00:22:29,240 I can completely see the attraction. I can completely see the attraction.
343 00:22:29,240 00:22:33,080 I think it's a magnificent and completely memorable thing to do. I think it's a magnificent and completely memorable thing to do.
344 00:22:34,080 00:22:39,280 I've been blessed with a lot of travel experiences in recent years. I've been blessed with a lot of travel experiences in recent years.
345 00:22:39,280 00:22:43,120 The last ten years particularly. But I won't forget this. The last ten years particularly. But I won't forget this.
346 00:22:44,400 00:22:47,240 I think that's why a lot of people are doing it as well. I think that's why a lot of people are doing it as well.
347 00:22:47,240 00:22:50,200 It does provide you with experiences that you're going to remember. It does provide you with experiences that you're going to remember.
348 00:22:56,680 00:22:59,320 COCKEREL CROWS COCKEREL CROWS
349 00:23:12,560 00:23:15,360 NEARBY BUSTLE AND CHATTER NEARBY BUSTLE AND CHATTER
350 00:23:18,520 00:23:20,680 Oh, everybody else appears to be up. Oh, everybody else appears to be up.
351 00:23:23,040 00:23:26,040 This lot are all hardcore, aren't they? This lot are all hardcore, aren't they?
352 00:23:26,040 00:23:29,880 Hardcore by my standards anyway! 07:30. Hardcore by my standards anyway! 07:30.
353 00:23:29,880 00:23:31,280 They've up and left. They've up and left.
354 00:23:33,640 00:23:35,880 I think I'd better follow them on the path. I think I'd better follow them on the path.
355 00:23:44,600 00:23:47,480 There are many different reasons to walk the Camino. There are many different reasons to walk the Camino.
356 00:23:47,480 00:23:50,960 A time to think, religious devotion, or for many, A time to think, religious devotion, or for many,
357 00:23:50,960 00:23:54,960 the sheer physical challenge of completing an epic journey. the sheer physical challenge of completing an epic journey.
358 00:23:54,960 00:23:57,160 But everyone shares the same goal. But everyone shares the same goal.
359 00:23:57,160 00:24:01,040 The city of Santiago de Compostela, home to the shrine of St James. The city of Santiago de Compostela, home to the shrine of St James.
360 00:24:02,400 00:24:04,560 CHEERING AND APPLAUSE CHEERING AND APPLAUSE
361 00:24:05,920 00:24:08,520 In the main square of the town, pilgrims and walkers In the main square of the town, pilgrims and walkers
362 00:24:08,520 00:24:11,560 were arriving and celebrating the end of their Camino. were arriving and celebrating the end of their Camino.
363 00:24:11,560 00:24:13,160 # And cheer with voices true # And cheer with voices true
364 00:24:13,160 00:24:15,880 # Rah-rah for Notre Dame (YOU RAH-RAH!) # Rah-rah for Notre Dame (YOU RAH-RAH!)
365 00:24:15,880 00:24:18,600 # We will fight in every game # We will fight in every game
366 00:24:18,600 00:24:23,280 # While her loyal sons are marching onward to victory # While her loyal sons are marching onward to victory
367 00:24:23,280 00:24:29,720 # For Notre Dame. # # For Notre Dame. #
368 00:24:30,800 00:24:33,840 Come on, now, that was incredible! Come on, now, that was incredible!
369 00:24:33,840 00:24:36,720 Surround sound effect. You cannot buy that! Surround sound effect. You cannot buy that!
370 00:24:36,720 00:24:38,440 Thank you very much. Thank you very much.
371 00:24:38,440 00:24:40,200 If you want to, though, we've got CDs! If you want to, though, we've got CDs!
372 00:24:40,200 00:24:42,160 LAUGHTER LAUGHTER
373 00:24:48,080 00:24:51,000 For someone without faith like me, the tale of how St James For someone without faith like me, the tale of how St James
374 00:24:51,000 00:24:54,120 ended up here is frankly pretty unbelievable. ended up here is frankly pretty unbelievable.
375 00:24:54,120 00:24:56,840 Apparently James was beheaded in the Holy Land, Apparently James was beheaded in the Holy Land,
376 00:24:56,840 00:25:00,160 but stories say his remains were put into a crewless stone boat but stories say his remains were put into a crewless stone boat
377 00:25:00,160 00:25:03,600 that angels helped transport to northern Spain. that angels helped transport to northern Spain.
378 00:25:03,600 00:25:06,920 Scallop shells worn by pilgrims testify to one of the miracles Scallop shells worn by pilgrims testify to one of the miracles
379 00:25:06,920 00:25:09,920 that followed, when a horse and rider were saved from the sea that followed, when a horse and rider were saved from the sea
380 00:25:09,920 00:25:11,760 and emerged covered in shells. and emerged covered in shells.
381 00:25:13,920 00:25:18,440 I met up with author Nancy Frey, who guides pilgrims along the Camino. I met up with author Nancy Frey, who guides pilgrims along the Camino.
382 00:25:18,440 00:25:22,160 She's also studied how the city of Santiago developed around St James She's also studied how the city of Santiago developed around St James
383 00:25:22,160 00:25:24,960 and how it's still defined by pilgrimage today. and how it's still defined by pilgrimage today.
384 00:25:24,960 00:25:28,680 So is Santiago, then, one of the best examples of a town or city So is Santiago, then, one of the best examples of a town or city
385 00:25:28,680 00:25:34,320 that owes its entire existence to a holy shrine and to pilgrimage? that owes its entire existence to a holy shrine and to pilgrimage?
386 00:25:34,320 00:25:37,960 Absolutely, and what is remarkable is that it was competing with Absolutely, and what is remarkable is that it was competing with
387 00:25:37,960 00:25:39,960 thousands of other sites. thousands of other sites.
388 00:25:39,960 00:25:42,680 And what is amazing is that it really And what is amazing is that it really
389 00:25:42,680 00:25:45,680 rose to the surface of all of the other ones rose to the surface of all of the other ones
390 00:25:45,680 00:25:50,000 because James is said to be one of Christ's inner circle. because James is said to be one of Christ's inner circle.
391 00:25:50,000 00:25:52,560 He's one of the most important apostles. Mm. He's one of the most important apostles. Mm.
392 00:25:52,560 00:25:56,520 He's someone who's referred to at key moments in the ministry of Christ He's someone who's referred to at key moments in the ministry of Christ
393 00:25:56,520 00:26:00,600 and they had his whole body here. and they had his whole body here.
394 00:26:00,600 00:26:05,720 And that obviously helped to sustain Christianity in Spain, didn't it? And that obviously helped to sustain Christianity in Spain, didn't it?
395 00:26:05,720 00:26:09,800 Absolutely, because it becomes an anchor point for Absolutely, because it becomes an anchor point for
396 00:26:09,800 00:26:13,120 this pilgrimage, for Christianity, in the whole north west, this pilgrimage, for Christianity, in the whole north west,
397 00:26:13,120 00:26:18,280 and at the same time as telling the evolving story of Spain's history. and at the same time as telling the evolving story of Spain's history.
398 00:26:19,880 00:26:21,120 In the 8th century, In the 8th century,
399 00:26:21,120 00:26:23,880 Spain was invaded by the Moors from North Africa, Spain was invaded by the Moors from North Africa,
400 00:26:23,880 00:26:27,720 and became predominantly Muslim for more than 700 years. and became predominantly Muslim for more than 700 years.
401 00:26:27,720 00:26:30,280 But a pocket of Christianity remained in the remote north But a pocket of Christianity remained in the remote north
402 00:26:30,280 00:26:33,360 in the area around what's now Santiago. in the area around what's now Santiago.
403 00:26:33,360 00:26:36,400 So it was rather convenient that the remains of St James So it was rather convenient that the remains of St James
404 00:26:36,400 00:26:38,800 were discovered here in the 9th century. were discovered here in the 9th century.
405 00:26:38,800 00:26:40,920 They became a rallying point for Christians They became a rallying point for Christians
406 00:26:40,920 00:26:42,520 trying to reclaim the country. trying to reclaim the country.
407 00:26:44,080 00:26:47,200 Ironically, James, a fisherman who became an apostle, Ironically, James, a fisherman who became an apostle,
408 00:26:47,200 00:26:50,920 was used in death to encourage Christian soldiers. was used in death to encourage Christian soldiers.
409 00:26:50,920 00:26:54,480 He became a lucky warrior mascot who was said to appear at key He became a lucky warrior mascot who was said to appear at key
410 00:26:54,480 00:26:56,640 battles against the Moors, battles against the Moors,
411 00:26:56,640 00:26:59,800 but today he's most often pictured as a humble pilgrim. but today he's most often pictured as a humble pilgrim.
412 00:27:01,040 00:27:03,560 He has all of these facets. He has all of these facets.
413 00:27:03,560 00:27:06,680 There's this important figure next to Christ as an apostle, There's this important figure next to Christ as an apostle,
414 00:27:06,680 00:27:11,040 and then as this figure of movement, of a journey, discovery, and then as this figure of movement, of a journey, discovery,
415 00:27:11,040 00:27:15,360 the spirituality, and then of course used as a military figure. the spirituality, and then of course used as a military figure.
416 00:27:15,360 00:27:18,560 And this is one of the reasons why I think it has been such And this is one of the reasons why I think it has been such
417 00:27:18,560 00:27:21,560 a successful image, because it is malleable. a successful image, because it is malleable.
418 00:27:21,560 00:27:25,760 You can change him and he has been changed and manipulated over time. You can change him and he has been changed and manipulated over time.
419 00:27:25,760 00:27:27,280 So is he really in there? So is he really in there?
420 00:27:27,280 00:27:28,880 I don't think it really matters I don't think it really matters
421 00:27:28,880 00:27:32,000 because people have been believing for more than a thousand years because people have been believing for more than a thousand years
422 00:27:32,000 00:27:36,240 that he is there, and it has the consequence, the result of that that he is there, and it has the consequence, the result of that
423 00:27:36,240 00:27:39,280 has been the creation of this remarkable way has been the creation of this remarkable way
424 00:27:39,280 00:27:43,920 and the presence of millions of people over the last thousand years, and the presence of millions of people over the last thousand years,
425 00:27:43,920 00:27:48,640 who have believed or who have come here to visit this place or to who have believed or who have come here to visit this place or to
426 00:27:48,640 00:27:52,760 journey, to have their own journey of discovery, and here they are. journey, to have their own journey of discovery, and here they are.
427 00:27:52,760 00:27:55,920 So it doesn't matter whether there are bones or not because it's here. So it doesn't matter whether there are bones or not because it's here.
428 00:27:57,000 00:27:58,560 Whether the remains of St James Whether the remains of St James
429 00:27:58,560 00:28:01,720 are here or not, the cathedral to house his legend took more are here or not, the cathedral to house his legend took more
430 00:28:01,720 00:28:03,400 than 100 years to complete. than 100 years to complete.
431 00:28:05,960 00:28:09,680 It was finally consecrated in the early 13th century. It was finally consecrated in the early 13th century.
432 00:28:09,680 00:28:13,160 It was designed to impress. A job it still does today. It was designed to impress. A job it still does today.
433 00:28:14,760 00:28:16,160 Now that is a vision. Now that is a vision.
434 00:28:18,360 00:28:20,120 Look at it! Look at it!
435 00:28:20,120 00:28:22,880 The light streaming down, it looks ethereal. The light streaming down, it looks ethereal.
436 00:28:24,680 00:28:26,360 Not of this world. Not of this world.
437 00:28:30,680 00:28:36,480 I think it's quite hard to imagine how a pilgrim who has trekked I think it's quite hard to imagine how a pilgrim who has trekked
438 00:28:36,480 00:28:40,800 here would feel at that sight, but surely you would... here would feel at that sight, but surely you would...
439 00:28:40,800 00:28:45,480 I feel, as a person without faith, I feel in the presence of something... I feel, as a person without faith, I feel in the presence of something...
440 00:28:46,640 00:28:48,520 ..something holy. ..something holy.
441 00:28:48,520 00:28:51,400 CHORAL SINGING CHORAL SINGING
442 00:28:56,920 00:29:00,720 Thousands of walkers and cyclists were crammed into the cathedral Thousands of walkers and cyclists were crammed into the cathedral
443 00:29:00,720 00:29:05,320 for the Sunday Mass, which for many marks the end of their journey. for the Sunday Mass, which for many marks the end of their journey.
444 00:29:05,320 00:29:07,360 There are even some local worshippers. There are even some local worshippers.
445 00:29:14,600 00:29:17,600 As the bags are going around, I can hear all the coins As the bags are going around, I can hear all the coins
446 00:29:17,600 00:29:19,000 and the money jangling. and the money jangling.
447 00:29:22,560 00:29:26,080 A cathedral like this would earn a fortune from pilgrims. A cathedral like this would earn a fortune from pilgrims.
448 00:29:34,200 00:29:35,680 The finale of the Mass The finale of the Mass
449 00:29:35,680 00:29:38,600 involves one of the world's largest incense burners. involves one of the world's largest incense burners.
450 00:29:40,080 00:29:42,720 HE SPEAKS IN SPANISH HE SPEAKS IN SPANISH
451 00:30:07,240 00:30:11,040 They used to do this to fumigate the stench from the pilgrims They used to do this to fumigate the stench from the pilgrims
452 00:30:11,040 00:30:13,040 massed into the cathedral. massed into the cathedral.
453 00:30:13,040 00:30:15,960 Now of course they still do it for religious reasons, Now of course they still do it for religious reasons,
454 00:30:15,960 00:30:17,720 but it's part of the drama. but it's part of the drama.
455 00:30:17,720 00:30:20,520 It's part of the theatre of the whole occasion. It's part of the theatre of the whole occasion.
456 00:30:20,520 00:30:23,480 This is what makes it such an event for people This is what makes it such an event for people
457 00:30:23,480 00:30:25,760 finishing their pilgrimage. APPLAUSE finishing their pilgrimage. APPLAUSE
458 00:30:25,760 00:30:27,200 Listen to that! Listen to that!
459 00:30:30,360 00:30:33,640 While these travellers celebrated the end of their journey, While these travellers celebrated the end of their journey,
460 00:30:33,640 00:30:35,600 the next part of my journey would take me the next part of my journey would take me
461 00:30:35,600 00:30:38,680 to one of the most important pilgrimage routes through Europe. to one of the most important pilgrimage routes through Europe.
462 00:30:39,720 00:30:42,120 The route between Britain and the holy city of Rome The route between Britain and the holy city of Rome
463 00:30:42,120 00:30:44,440 was first mapped in the 10th century. was first mapped in the 10th century.
464 00:30:44,440 00:30:47,640 Pilgrims following it had to cross one of Europe's biggest obstacles... Pilgrims following it had to cross one of Europe's biggest obstacles...
465 00:30:48,960 00:30:50,160 ..the Alps. ..the Alps.
466 00:31:00,760 00:31:03,760 I've come to an area where a 12th century abbot I've come to an area where a 12th century abbot
467 00:31:03,760 00:31:08,800 travelling from Iceland to Rome tells us the different travelling from Iceland to Rome tells us the different
468 00:31:08,800 00:31:13,880 pilgrimage routes from Northern Europe to Italy all converged. pilgrimage routes from Northern Europe to Italy all converged.
469 00:31:13,880 00:31:19,120 They would have been Scandinavians, English, Franks, French, Flemish, They would have been Scandinavians, English, Franks, French, Flemish,
470 00:31:19,120 00:31:21,480 all coming through this area. all coming through this area.
471 00:31:24,320 00:31:27,120 Look at this, there's snow just on the road here. Look at this, there's snow just on the road here.
472 00:31:27,120 00:31:29,680 Almost like a chunk of it has fallen off. Almost like a chunk of it has fallen off.
473 00:31:30,800 00:31:32,320 Can still just get past, Can still just get past,
474 00:31:32,320 00:31:35,000 but I know I won't be able to go for much further. but I know I won't be able to go for much further.
475 00:31:36,160 00:31:38,280 And then it's going to be time to walk. And then it's going to be time to walk.
476 00:31:39,880 00:31:42,880 Most modern travellers now use a boring tunnel under Most modern travellers now use a boring tunnel under
477 00:31:42,880 00:31:46,360 the mountain, but for thousands of years, pilgrims, merchants the mountain, but for thousands of years, pilgrims, merchants
478 00:31:46,360 00:31:49,800 and armies all crossed the Alps at the Great St Bernard Pass. and armies all crossed the Alps at the Great St Bernard Pass.
479 00:31:52,080 00:31:53,840 This must be as far as I can go. This must be as far as I can go.
480 00:31:56,600 00:31:57,880 Oh, stop the car. Oh, stop the car.
481 00:32:00,240 00:32:02,920 The pass is 8,000 feet above sea level The pass is 8,000 feet above sea level
482 00:32:02,920 00:32:06,640 and conditions for crossing it are notoriously unpredictable. and conditions for crossing it are notoriously unpredictable.
483 00:32:10,200 00:32:12,960 There are numerous accounts of pilgrims crossing the Alps There are numerous accounts of pilgrims crossing the Alps
484 00:32:12,960 00:32:16,320 who lost their companions to avalanches or exposure. who lost their companions to avalanches or exposure.
485 00:32:16,320 00:32:18,800 The snow here can be 10 metres deep in winter The snow here can be 10 metres deep in winter
486 00:32:18,800 00:32:22,520 and the temperature drops to minus 30 centigrade. and the temperature drops to minus 30 centigrade.
487 00:32:22,520 00:32:25,560 In the 10th century, even an Archbishop of Canterbury In the 10th century, even an Archbishop of Canterbury
488 00:32:25,560 00:32:28,640 froze to death here while making a pilgrimage to Rome. froze to death here while making a pilgrimage to Rome.
489 00:32:30,320 00:32:34,960 Even in summer time, as it is now, when the sky is blue, Even in summer time, as it is now, when the sky is blue,
490 00:32:34,960 00:32:36,960 it's still snowy up here. it's still snowy up here.
491 00:32:36,960 00:32:39,880 Imagine the conditions in winter. Imagine the conditions in winter.
492 00:32:39,880 00:32:41,760 People still crossed then. People still crossed then.
493 00:32:47,560 00:32:50,960 To provide shelter and safety for pilgrims and travellers, To provide shelter and safety for pilgrims and travellers,
494 00:32:50,960 00:32:54,720 an 11th century monk founded a hostel at the top of the pass. an 11th century monk founded a hostel at the top of the pass.
495 00:32:54,720 00:32:58,080 He was St Bernard, the apostle of the Alps. He was St Bernard, the apostle of the Alps.
496 00:33:00,240 00:33:03,080 Look, there he is. Just round there. At the top. Look, there he is. Just round there. At the top.
497 00:33:03,080 00:33:04,600 Come round the bend. Come round the bend.
498 00:33:04,600 00:33:08,440 It's a hostel, a refuge, a monastery, It's a hostel, a refuge, a monastery,
499 00:33:08,440 00:33:10,520 and a very welcome sight! and a very welcome sight!
500 00:33:15,360 00:33:19,320 A medieval manuscript describes this place as one of the three columns A medieval manuscript describes this place as one of the three columns
501 00:33:19,320 00:33:22,040 built by God for the support of his poor people. built by God for the support of his poor people.
502 00:33:24,480 00:33:28,200 Today, the hostel is run by three canons and two sisters from the Today, the hostel is run by three canons and two sisters from the
503 00:33:28,200 00:33:32,440 Augustine order, who provide food and shelter for passing pilgrims. Augustine order, who provide food and shelter for passing pilgrims.
504 00:33:32,440 00:33:35,720 Oh, it's lovely. Look at this! Oh, it's lovely. Look at this!
505 00:33:37,240 00:33:38,840 What a lovely mountain room. What a lovely mountain room.
506 00:33:38,840 00:33:41,600 Brother Raphael showed me to my room for the night. Brother Raphael showed me to my room for the night.
507 00:33:41,600 00:33:43,160 Oh, yes. Oh, yes.
508 00:33:43,160 00:33:48,160 If you want to see where are the toilets and the douche... If you want to see where are the toilets and the douche...
509 00:33:48,160 00:33:50,200 I'm sure I'll find them. I'm sure I'll find them.
510 00:33:50,200 00:33:55,400 If you want anything, you ring the bell and somebody will answer. If you want anything, you ring the bell and somebody will answer.
511 00:33:55,400 00:33:58,880 Assist. Thank you very much indeed, sir. Assist. Thank you very much indeed, sir.
512 00:33:58,880 00:34:02,480 I pray... I wish you a good stay here. I pray... I wish you a good stay here.
513 00:34:02,480 00:34:03,920 That's lovely of you. That's lovely of you.
514 00:34:05,120 00:34:07,560 BELL RINGS BELL RINGS
515 00:34:11,800 00:34:13,160 To look after visitors, To look after visitors,
516 00:34:13,160 00:34:16,160 the canons have a small team working behind the scenes. the canons have a small team working behind the scenes.
517 00:34:16,160 00:34:17,680 I offered to help out. I offered to help out.
518 00:34:20,000 00:34:23,240 That's the first time I've ever served soup to anyone. That's the first time I've ever served soup to anyone.
519 00:34:25,560 00:34:26,880 Back in here? Yeah. Back in here? Yeah.
520 00:34:28,200 00:34:30,840 Pascal has worked here for the last three years. Pascal has worked here for the last three years.
521 00:34:33,040 00:34:38,400 Does it feel like you're continuing the spirit of St Bernard? Does it feel like you're continuing the spirit of St Bernard?
522 00:34:38,400 00:34:39,560 Yes, yes. Yes, yes.
523 00:34:40,560 00:34:43,560 For sure, it's really touristic here, but sometimes, For sure, it's really touristic here, but sometimes,
524 00:34:43,560 00:34:47,920 and especially in summer, we have people come here with nothing. and especially in summer, we have people come here with nothing.
525 00:34:47,920 00:34:53,600 I remember last year, a guy who came here with nothing, and we... I remember last year, a guy who came here with nothing, and we...
526 00:34:53,600 00:34:56,600 he didn't pay anything, and we gave clothes. he didn't pay anything, and we gave clothes.
527 00:34:56,600 00:35:00,680 Everything. It's not a problem. We really welcome everybody. Everything. It's not a problem. We really welcome everybody.
528 00:35:00,680 00:35:03,960 This is a very special... a special place to work, isn't it? This is a very special... a special place to work, isn't it?
529 00:35:03,960 00:35:06,840 Which you get pilgrims coming to as well. Which you get pilgrims coming to as well.
530 00:35:06,840 00:35:11,000 Yes, we get pilgrims. Over and...more and more every year. Yes, we get pilgrims. Over and...more and more every year.
531 00:35:11,000 00:35:12,720 More and more are coming. Yes. Yes. More and more are coming. Yes. Yes.
532 00:35:12,720 00:35:15,040 They always say it's for spirituality, you know? They always say it's for spirituality, you know?
533 00:35:15,040 00:35:18,040 Just to walk and... Just to walk and...
534 00:35:18,040 00:35:20,640 just don't think about my job, just don't think about my job,
535 00:35:20,640 00:35:22,880 don't think about my life. don't think about my life.
536 00:35:22,880 00:35:26,920 Just to do other things, and don't think about anything. Just to do other things, and don't think about anything.
537 00:35:26,920 00:35:29,200 Get on the road. Yes, exactly. Get on the road. Yes, exactly.
538 00:35:32,000 00:35:33,840 You haven't eaten enough! You haven't eaten enough!
539 00:35:33,840 00:35:36,000 It was good! I was full! It was good! I was full!
540 00:35:36,000 00:35:37,720 You were full. OK! You were full. OK!
541 00:35:39,640 00:35:41,120 Thank you! Thank you!
542 00:35:41,120 00:35:43,560 My aim is just not to break a plate. My aim is just not to break a plate.
543 00:35:53,720 00:35:56,640 This ancient Christian refuge hasn't closed its doors This ancient Christian refuge hasn't closed its doors
544 00:35:56,640 00:35:58,600 for a thousand years. for a thousand years.
545 00:35:58,600 00:36:02,200 It's open to everyone, no matter what their religion or philosophy. It's open to everyone, no matter what their religion or philosophy.
546 00:36:03,960 00:36:06,960 To stretch out the muscles after the long climb up the mountain, To stretch out the muscles after the long climb up the mountain,
547 00:36:06,960 00:36:10,200 I joined other visitors at a yoga and meditation class. I joined other visitors at a yoga and meditation class.
548 00:36:10,200 00:36:13,600 Just check in with your body. What's your body doing? Just check in with your body. What's your body doing?
549 00:36:14,720 00:36:17,960 How does it feel in your legs? How do your shoulders feel? How does it feel in your legs? How do your shoulders feel?
550 00:36:19,200 00:36:22,040 These design students from the University of Utah These design students from the University of Utah
551 00:36:22,040 00:36:24,920 are on a European pilgrimage visiting holy sites are on a European pilgrimage visiting holy sites
552 00:36:24,920 00:36:27,200 and places that inspired works of literature. and places that inspired works of literature.
553 00:36:31,440 00:36:33,160 How was the yoga for you? How was the yoga for you?
554 00:36:33,160 00:36:36,240 Oh, I loved it. I cried a little, to tell you the truth. Oh, I loved it. I cried a little, to tell you the truth.
555 00:36:36,240 00:36:38,600 Did you? Yes, I was being a baby. Did you? Yes, I was being a baby.
556 00:36:39,600 00:36:44,200 For 19-year-old Ricky, it's his first experience of pilgrimage. For 19-year-old Ricky, it's his first experience of pilgrimage.
557 00:36:44,200 00:36:48,080 I actually...I love walking, hiking. I've been athletic my whole life. I actually...I love walking, hiking. I've been athletic my whole life.
558 00:36:48,080 00:36:51,320 Sports, and so I decided I have to do it. Sports, and so I decided I have to do it.
559 00:36:51,320 00:36:55,040 Was it the history, the promise of special experiences Was it the history, the promise of special experiences
560 00:36:55,040 00:36:56,400 that drew you in? that drew you in?
561 00:36:56,400 00:36:58,480 I kind of...spiritually, I wanted to do it. I kind of...spiritually, I wanted to do it.
562 00:36:58,480 00:37:00,280 I've got to get some meaning in my life. I've got to get some meaning in my life.
563 00:37:00,280 00:37:02,640 Is that what this is going to help you with, do you think? Is that what this is going to help you with, do you think?
564 00:37:02,640 00:37:05,040 I hope so. I believe. I hope so. I believe.
565 00:37:09,120 00:37:11,680 The majority of the students are Mormons. The majority of the students are Mormons.
566 00:37:11,680 00:37:13,880 They were being put to work around the hostel, They were being put to work around the hostel,
567 00:37:13,880 00:37:15,880 apparently so they could learn about the life apparently so they could learn about the life
568 00:37:15,880 00:37:18,680 of St Bernard and the value of service. of St Bernard and the value of service.
569 00:37:20,640 00:37:22,200 Oh, my goodness. Oh, my goodness.
570 00:37:26,440 00:37:28,560 What are you doing? What are you doing?
571 00:37:29,880 00:37:32,600 Hard to reach spaces, I guess. Hard to reach spaces, I guess.
572 00:37:33,640 00:37:35,560 You be careful! You be careful!
573 00:37:35,560 00:37:36,640 Oh, I'm good. Oh, I'm good.
574 00:37:37,840 00:37:43,560 Avec de l'eau. Ah, OK, oui. C'est tout. OK? OK. Je comprends. Avec de l'eau. Ah, OK, oui. C'est tout. OK? OK. Je comprends.
575 00:37:43,560 00:37:47,040 Simon, one for you. Oh, you are so kind! Simon, one for you. Oh, you are so kind!
576 00:37:49,000 00:37:52,720 Do you think there is a deeper meaning to doing things like this, Do you think there is a deeper meaning to doing things like this,
577 00:37:52,720 00:37:55,680 or is it just learning to do things or is it just learning to do things
578 00:37:55,680 00:37:57,480 you don't necessarily want to do? you don't necessarily want to do?
579 00:37:57,480 00:38:02,120 In a way, we get to see the monks' perspective of service. In a way, we get to see the monks' perspective of service.
580 00:38:02,120 00:38:05,480 Maintaining the cleanliness of the church Maintaining the cleanliness of the church
581 00:38:05,480 00:38:07,320 is a service for the monks. is a service for the monks.
582 00:38:07,320 00:38:10,720 We are repaying them for what they do for the pilgrims. We are repaying them for what they do for the pilgrims.
583 00:38:10,720 00:38:13,200 It's kind of like what goes around comes around. It's kind of like what goes around comes around.
584 00:38:13,200 00:38:15,160 Good karma and all that, right? Good karma and all that, right?
585 00:38:15,160 00:38:17,480 Good karma? Yeah. Good karma? Yeah.
586 00:38:20,600 00:38:22,760 Yoga, karma, Mormons. Yoga, karma, Mormons.
587 00:38:22,760 00:38:26,440 I was surprised by this very modern mixing of cultures and religions. I was surprised by this very modern mixing of cultures and religions.
588 00:38:26,440 00:38:28,720 In the hostel museum I talked to Alex, In the hostel museum I talked to Alex,
589 00:38:28,720 00:38:31,080 one of the leaders of the group. one of the leaders of the group.
590 00:38:31,080 00:38:35,320 We come from a highly concentrated Mormon background, We come from a highly concentrated Mormon background,
591 00:38:35,320 00:38:36,960 where it's a bubble. where it's a bubble.
592 00:38:36,960 00:38:39,440 I mean, it's a different world. I mean, it's a different world.
593 00:38:39,440 00:38:41,880 All of us are culture shocked when we go out into the world All of us are culture shocked when we go out into the world
594 00:38:41,880 00:38:43,920 and see that not everybody is Mormon and see that not everybody is Mormon
595 00:38:43,920 00:38:46,320 and everybody does the same things we do. and everybody does the same things we do.
596 00:38:46,320 00:38:48,080 So to come to Switzerland? So to come to Switzerland?
597 00:38:48,080 00:38:50,760 To come to Switzerland is a big eye-opener, To come to Switzerland is a big eye-opener,
598 00:38:50,760 00:38:53,120 because we're involved with a lot of things, because we're involved with a lot of things,
599 00:38:53,120 00:38:54,840 like we went to Mass yesterday. like we went to Mass yesterday.
600 00:38:54,840 00:38:58,600 98% of the students that we have have never been to a Catholic Mass, 98% of the students that we have have never been to a Catholic Mass,
601 00:38:58,600 00:39:01,480 and so it's easy just to write that off as, and so it's easy just to write that off as,
602 00:39:01,480 00:39:04,760 "Oh, this is foreign to me and so this is useless," "Oh, this is foreign to me and so this is useless,"
603 00:39:04,760 00:39:07,760 but what we're trying to do is show the students that, no, but what we're trying to do is show the students that, no,
604 00:39:07,760 00:39:10,200 this has the same amount of value to the people here this has the same amount of value to the people here
605 00:39:10,200 00:39:12,600 as what we do back home. as what we do back home.
606 00:39:12,600 00:39:15,680 Do you feel like this is a part of a pilgrimage? Do you feel like this is a part of a pilgrimage?
607 00:39:15,680 00:39:17,880 Yes, I do. I think... I don't know. Yes, I do. I think... I don't know.
608 00:39:17,880 00:39:22,480 I define pilgrimage simply as a journey that an individual I define pilgrimage simply as a journey that an individual
609 00:39:22,480 00:39:25,520 just feels like he or she needs to take. just feels like he or she needs to take.
610 00:39:25,520 00:39:28,840 A pilgrimage is not so much an escape in my opinion, A pilgrimage is not so much an escape in my opinion,
611 00:39:28,840 00:39:30,120 at least not for me. at least not for me.
612 00:39:30,120 00:39:34,120 A pilgrimage is a time for you to try to find a reality A pilgrimage is a time for you to try to find a reality
613 00:39:34,120 00:39:35,520 to the human condition to the human condition
614 00:39:35,520 00:39:38,800 that you may not have tapped into before in your life. that you may not have tapped into before in your life.
615 00:39:38,800 00:39:40,240 That's good. That's good.
616 00:39:43,000 00:39:45,520 It was time for me to head south It was time for me to head south
617 00:39:45,520 00:39:48,320 to the centre of Catholic Europe, Italy. to the centre of Catholic Europe, Italy.
618 00:39:58,680 00:40:02,320 I'm really zipping around on this journey. France, Spain, Switzerland. I'm really zipping around on this journey. France, Spain, Switzerland.
619 00:40:02,320 00:40:05,320 I'm now driving through Italy, across Italy in fact, I'm now driving through Italy, across Italy in fact,
620 00:40:05,320 00:40:08,320 to a town on the eastern side of the country, to a town on the eastern side of the country,
621 00:40:08,320 00:40:11,720 which has seen a massive boom in the number of people and visitors which has seen a massive boom in the number of people and visitors
622 00:40:11,720 00:40:14,320 and pilgrims who have been heading there in recent years. and pilgrims who have been heading there in recent years.
623 00:40:17,760 00:40:21,400 San Giovanni Rotondo was once a small sheep farming town. San Giovanni Rotondo was once a small sheep farming town.
624 00:40:21,400 00:40:24,360 It's now a booming pilgrimage destination. It's now a booming pilgrimage destination.
625 00:40:28,880 00:40:33,080 The pilgrims are here because of Padre Pio, an Italian friar The pilgrims are here because of Padre Pio, an Italian friar
626 00:40:33,080 00:40:35,560 who became famous for his miraculous powers who became famous for his miraculous powers
627 00:40:35,560 00:40:37,240 and Christ-like suffering. and Christ-like suffering.
628 00:40:38,360 00:40:41,480 Padre Pio died in 1968. Padre Pio died in 1968.
629 00:40:41,480 00:40:46,160 San Giovanni reportedly now gets more than two million visitors every year. San Giovanni reportedly now gets more than two million visitors every year.
630 00:40:49,080 00:40:53,600 This is a pilgrimage site unlike anything we've seen This is a pilgrimage site unlike anything we've seen
631 00:40:53,600 00:40:56,200 anywhere on this journey so far. anywhere on this journey so far.
632 00:40:56,200 00:40:58,360 Very modern. Very modern.
633 00:40:58,360 00:41:01,400 Ludicrously so, to a certain degree. Ludicrously so, to a certain degree.
634 00:41:01,400 00:41:05,240 Personally I go for old and old-fashioned, Personally I go for old and old-fashioned,
635 00:41:05,240 00:41:07,560 but this is... but this is...
636 00:41:07,560 00:41:10,000 This is very 20th and 21st century. This is very 20th and 21st century.
637 00:41:18,960 00:41:24,120 This cathedral opened in 2004 and can hold up to 8,000 pilgrims, This cathedral opened in 2004 and can hold up to 8,000 pilgrims,
638 00:41:24,120 00:41:27,960 reflecting the mass appeal of what many see as the cult of Padre Pio. reflecting the mass appeal of what many see as the cult of Padre Pio.
639 00:41:29,560 00:41:31,880 It's a mega-church, eh? It's a mega-church, eh?
640 00:41:31,880 00:41:34,000 Proof of the old adage, Proof of the old adage,
641 00:41:34,000 00:41:36,960 perhaps, if you build it, they will come. perhaps, if you build it, they will come.
642 00:41:42,920 00:41:46,440 Followers of Padre Pio believed he had the ability to read souls Followers of Padre Pio believed he had the ability to read souls
643 00:41:46,440 00:41:49,440 and appear in two places at once. and appear in two places at once.
644 00:41:49,440 00:41:52,440 It's claimed he could miraculously cure people, It's claimed he could miraculously cure people,
645 00:41:52,440 00:41:53,720 help the blind to see, help the blind to see,
646 00:41:53,720 00:41:56,800 and even rose into the sky to protect this town and even rose into the sky to protect this town
647 00:41:56,800 00:41:59,440 from American bombers during the Second World War. from American bombers during the Second World War.
648 00:42:01,680 00:42:05,320 Beneath the cathedral, a 75-metre corridor is adorned Beneath the cathedral, a 75-metre corridor is adorned
649 00:42:05,320 00:42:07,360 from floor to ceiling from floor to ceiling
650 00:42:07,360 00:42:09,680 with Padre Pio mosaics that promote his legend. with Padre Pio mosaics that promote his legend.
651 00:42:10,760 00:42:14,400 The gold has come from tonnes of jewellery donated by devoted pilgrims. The gold has come from tonnes of jewellery donated by devoted pilgrims.
652 00:42:18,080 00:42:22,360 It's almost overwhelming to see all this imagery of him. It's almost overwhelming to see all this imagery of him.
653 00:42:22,360 00:42:23,840 Goodness me. Goodness me.
654 00:42:23,840 00:42:27,560 This is "Padre Pio answers the mail" on this side. This is "Padre Pio answers the mail" on this side.
655 00:42:31,520 00:42:34,000 Padre Pio, Padre Pio, Padre Pio, Padre Pio, Padre Pio, Padre Pio,
656 00:42:34,000 00:42:36,960 doing everything, being everywhere. doing everything, being everywhere.
657 00:42:38,400 00:42:39,640 Quite bizarre. Quite bizarre.
658 00:42:42,720 00:42:47,560 I suppose one of the main things that's made Padre Pio so popular... I suppose one of the main things that's made Padre Pio so popular...
659 00:42:47,560 00:42:50,240 He had the stigmata. He had the stigmata.
660 00:42:50,240 00:42:54,560 A stigmata is when a person appears to develop identical wounds A stigmata is when a person appears to develop identical wounds
661 00:42:54,560 00:42:58,040 to those of Christ on the cross suffering crucifixion, to those of Christ on the cross suffering crucifixion,
662 00:42:58,040 00:43:01,600 so blood seeping from hands, so blood seeping from hands,
663 00:43:01,600 00:43:03,480 just the same as those of Christ. just the same as those of Christ.
664 00:43:06,720 00:43:09,920 The imagery here is completely mind-blowing. The imagery here is completely mind-blowing.
665 00:43:11,840 00:43:15,560 It looks very much like an attempt to turn Padre Pio It looks very much like an attempt to turn Padre Pio
666 00:43:15,560 00:43:17,640 into not just a saint into not just a saint
667 00:43:17,640 00:43:21,880 but somebody worthy of almost divine veneration, but somebody worthy of almost divine veneration,
668 00:43:21,880 00:43:24,280 somebody akin to Jesus. somebody akin to Jesus.
669 00:43:25,640 00:43:29,320 This is unlike any other veneration of a Christian saint This is unlike any other veneration of a Christian saint
670 00:43:29,320 00:43:32,040 I'm aware of anywhere in the world. I'm aware of anywhere in the world.
671 00:43:32,040 00:43:34,400 It's more extreme, more intense, It's more extreme, more intense,
672 00:43:34,400 00:43:36,520 and frankly more over the top. and frankly more over the top.
673 00:43:39,000 00:43:40,720 An Italian historian has claimed An Italian historian has claimed
674 00:43:40,720 00:43:45,040 Padre Pio kept his stigmata wounds open by using carbolic acid. Padre Pio kept his stigmata wounds open by using carbolic acid.
675 00:43:45,040 00:43:48,080 The Vatican was suspicious of Padre Pio. The Vatican was suspicious of Padre Pio.
676 00:43:48,080 00:43:50,760 Two popes had him investigated and twice banned him Two popes had him investigated and twice banned him
677 00:43:50,760 00:43:53,200 from performing priestly duties. from performing priestly duties.
678 00:43:53,200 00:43:57,080 But after he died they couldn't control his popular appeal, But after he died they couldn't control his popular appeal,
679 00:43:57,080 00:44:01,720 and in 2002 he was given the highest honour possible bestowed by the Catholic Church... and in 2002 he was given the highest honour possible bestowed by the Catholic Church...
680 00:44:01,720 00:44:03,080 a sainthood. a sainthood.
681 00:44:06,160 00:44:09,320 His body is now kept on display in a purpose-built crypt. His body is now kept on display in a purpose-built crypt.
682 00:44:18,240 00:44:21,680 Rarely in the history of Christianity has the cult of a saint Rarely in the history of Christianity has the cult of a saint
683 00:44:21,680 00:44:23,920 expanded so rapidly and so powerfully expanded so rapidly and so powerfully
684 00:44:23,920 00:44:26,880 as it has around Padre Pio. as it has around Padre Pio.
685 00:44:26,880 00:44:28,960 After the Vatican, After the Vatican,
686 00:44:28,960 00:44:32,800 this is claimed to be the second largest pilgrimage site in Europe. this is claimed to be the second largest pilgrimage site in Europe.
687 00:44:55,120 00:44:59,640 Well, that was unlike any Christian church or building, shrine Well, that was unlike any Christian church or building, shrine
688 00:44:59,640 00:45:02,400 or sanctuary I've been to anywhere in the world. or sanctuary I've been to anywhere in the world.
689 00:45:03,840 00:45:07,200 It's extraordinary how important Padre Pio's become. It's extraordinary how important Padre Pio's become.
690 00:45:07,200 00:45:12,000 He went from being a fairly small-town friar He went from being a fairly small-town friar
691 00:45:12,000 00:45:17,120 to a figure of national importance and then global significance. to a figure of national importance and then global significance.
692 00:45:27,000 00:45:30,520 The adoration of saintly figures isn't unusual, of course, The adoration of saintly figures isn't unusual, of course,
693 00:45:30,520 00:45:32,240 but here it's big business. but here it's big business.
694 00:45:38,520 00:45:40,480 To help spread the word further, To help spread the word further,
695 00:45:40,480 00:45:43,640 there's a global media operation which bears his name. there's a global media operation which bears his name.
696 00:45:50,920 00:45:52,720 Wow. Wow.
697 00:45:52,720 00:45:57,000 Padre Pio TV station transmits live from the cathedral Padre Pio TV station transmits live from the cathedral
698 00:45:57,000 00:45:59,880 five times a day, every day. five times a day, every day.
699 00:45:59,880 00:46:02,240 This is what you call a feed, isn't it? This is your... This is what you call a feed, isn't it? This is your...
700 00:46:02,240 00:46:05,080 Yes. This is the Mass. This is the Mass. Yes. Yes. This is the Mass. This is the Mass. Yes.
701 00:46:05,080 00:46:08,200 And where is...? Live. Live, OK. OK? And where is...? Live. Live, OK. OK?
702 00:46:08,200 00:46:11,280 The channel's watched around the world, including across Asia The channel's watched around the world, including across Asia
703 00:46:11,280 00:46:13,560 and North and South America. and North and South America.
704 00:46:13,560 00:46:16,120 Stefania is a producer at the station. Stefania is a producer at the station.
705 00:46:16,120 00:46:18,920 Do you have any viewing figures for how many people Do you have any viewing figures for how many people
706 00:46:18,920 00:46:21,400 will be seeing the Mass at the moment? will be seeing the Mass at the moment?
707 00:46:21,400 00:46:25,720 We have an average of 300,000 people every day. We have an average of 300,000 people every day.
708 00:46:25,720 00:46:28,400 300,000? Yes. Yes. 300,000? Yes. Yes.
709 00:46:28,400 00:46:30,440 And that's around the planet? Yes. And that's around the planet? Yes.
710 00:46:30,440 00:46:32,840 The TV station is run by monks. The TV station is run by monks.
711 00:46:32,840 00:46:35,800 The president is Padre Mariano Devito. The president is Padre Mariano Devito.
712 00:46:35,800 00:46:39,760 Is it a little bit unusual for an order of monks Is it a little bit unusual for an order of monks
713 00:46:39,760 00:46:42,200 to be involved in television? to be involved in television?
714 00:46:42,200 00:46:44,560 Or is it just the 21st century? Or is it just the 21st century?
715 00:47:09,800 00:47:14,120 There is almost an industry around Padre Pio. There is almost an industry around Padre Pio.
716 00:47:33,600 00:47:36,680 Coach-loads of visitors arrive here daily. Coach-loads of visitors arrive here daily.
717 00:47:36,680 00:47:40,240 In this poor region of Italy, the town and its 30,000 residents In this poor region of Italy, the town and its 30,000 residents
718 00:47:40,240 00:47:43,840 earn more than £100 million a year from visiting pilgrims. earn more than £100 million a year from visiting pilgrims.
719 00:47:47,120 00:47:50,720 It's fascinating how the economy of a place like this can become It's fascinating how the economy of a place like this can become
720 00:47:50,720 00:47:54,400 dependent on, but can exist in the first place, because of pilgrimage. dependent on, but can exist in the first place, because of pilgrimage.
721 00:47:54,400 00:47:58,400 I've seen it elsewhere on my journey, but never quite so starkly. I've seen it elsewhere on my journey, but never quite so starkly.
722 00:47:58,400 00:48:02,880 We've got a hotel here just on this street, hotel here, We've got a hotel here just on this street, hotel here,
723 00:48:02,880 00:48:06,600 hotel, hotel, restaurant, cafe, restaurant, cafe. hotel, hotel, restaurant, cafe, restaurant, cafe.
724 00:48:07,920 00:48:09,720 All the way down this street All the way down this street
725 00:48:09,720 00:48:15,520 there are now scores of hotels in this town, which, frankly, there are now scores of hotels in this town, which, frankly,
726 00:48:15,520 00:48:18,720 if the cult of Padre Pio wasn't here, if the cult of Padre Pio wasn't here,
727 00:48:18,720 00:48:21,800 would probably deserve just a couple of little guest houses. would probably deserve just a couple of little guest houses.
728 00:48:23,680 00:48:27,200 The town actually has more than 120 hotels serving The town actually has more than 120 hotels serving
729 00:48:27,200 00:48:29,320 the 21st-century pilgrim industry. the 21st-century pilgrim industry.
730 00:48:30,720 00:48:33,520 I went to one to meet the owner, Franco, who's lived I went to one to meet the owner, Franco, who's lived
731 00:48:33,520 00:48:37,080 all his life in San Giovanni and has seen the town transformed. all his life in San Giovanni and has seen the town transformed.
732 00:48:38,200 00:48:40,760 Have your family always been hoteliers? Have your family always been hoteliers?
733 00:49:02,680 00:49:09,000 Do you find it slightly astonishing that you have opened a hotel, Do you find it slightly astonishing that you have opened a hotel,
734 00:49:09,000 00:49:10,800 you've had great success, you've had great success,
735 00:49:10,800 00:49:14,440 and now the story of Padre Pio's spread so far? and now the story of Padre Pio's spread so far?
736 00:49:40,120 00:49:42,520 'Franco employs over 100 staff, 'Franco employs over 100 staff,
737 00:49:42,520 00:49:45,400 'serving an increasing number of guests.' 'serving an increasing number of guests.'
738 00:49:45,400 00:49:49,680 You seem to have an Olympic-size swimming pool out here! You seem to have an Olympic-size swimming pool out here!
739 00:49:49,680 00:49:53,280 'Modern pilgrims who come here, even for just a weekend, 'Modern pilgrims who come here, even for just a weekend,
740 00:49:53,280 00:49:56,080 'often expect a certain level of luxury.' 'often expect a certain level of luxury.'
741 00:49:56,080 00:49:57,640 There is this line, isn't there? There is this line, isn't there?
742 00:49:57,640 00:50:00,680 This sort of divide where people are called pilgrims or they're This sort of divide where people are called pilgrims or they're
743 00:50:00,680 00:50:04,880 called tourists, but maybe the two are becoming one now, called tourists, but maybe the two are becoming one now,
744 00:50:04,880 00:50:06,680 and certainly in a place like this. and certainly in a place like this.
745 00:50:31,800 00:50:33,520 Thank you. Thank you.
746 00:50:33,520 00:50:36,480 Prego. Grazie a voi. Thank you! Prego. Grazie a voi. Thank you!
747 00:50:46,680 00:50:49,240 I think what this town represents I think what this town represents
748 00:50:49,240 00:50:52,720 is the globalisation of pilgrimage. is the globalisation of pilgrimage.
749 00:50:52,720 00:50:56,280 I think I'd have expected that in the 21st century, I think I'd have expected that in the 21st century,
750 00:50:56,280 00:50:59,840 people would have been turning away from religious belief people would have been turning away from religious belief
751 00:50:59,840 00:51:02,880 and pilgrimage to places like this, but quite the opposite. and pilgrimage to places like this, but quite the opposite.
752 00:51:02,880 00:51:05,440 They've now got people coming from around the world here, They've now got people coming from around the world here,
753 00:51:05,440 00:51:08,440 and as long as they continue to come, and as long as they continue to come,
754 00:51:08,440 00:51:11,400 the locals here are going to keep raking in the money. the locals here are going to keep raking in the money.
755 00:51:14,320 00:51:16,920 Pilgrimage trips were the forerunner of the modern holiday. Pilgrimage trips were the forerunner of the modern holiday.
756 00:51:16,920 00:51:20,360 Even the word is ultimately derived from "Holy Day." Even the word is ultimately derived from "Holy Day."
757 00:51:20,360 00:51:24,080 European pilgrimage had been in decline, but in recent decades, European pilgrimage had been in decline, but in recent decades,
758 00:51:24,080 00:51:27,800 as we've become wealthier with more spare time, it's booming. as we've become wealthier with more spare time, it's booming.
759 00:51:27,800 00:51:30,640 We're softies compared to hardy medieval pilgrims, We're softies compared to hardy medieval pilgrims,
760 00:51:30,640 00:51:32,120 but we still have belief. but we still have belief.
761 00:51:32,120 00:51:34,640 Now many want to combine holiday and Holy Day - Now many want to combine holiday and Holy Day -
762 00:51:34,640 00:51:36,840 a pilgrimage, but with a swimming pool. a pilgrimage, but with a swimming pool.
763 00:51:43,560 00:51:47,400 An ancient pilgrimage route took me towards my final destination. An ancient pilgrimage route took me towards my final destination.
764 00:51:50,120 00:51:52,840 Travellers from Britain and Northern Europe walked this way Travellers from Britain and Northern Europe walked this way
765 00:51:52,840 00:51:56,880 for centuries to get their first glimpse of the eternal city. for centuries to get their first glimpse of the eternal city.
766 00:51:58,680 00:52:01,400 HE LAUGHS Flipping 'eck! HE LAUGHS Flipping 'eck!
767 00:52:03,800 00:52:05,120 Look at that! Look at that!
768 00:52:07,480 00:52:08,680 Rome! Rome!
769 00:52:11,360 00:52:15,520 This would have been the first chance that hundreds This would have been the first chance that hundreds
770 00:52:15,520 00:52:19,480 of thousands of pilgrims would have had to see this extraordinary of thousands of pilgrims would have had to see this extraordinary
771 00:52:19,480 00:52:23,440 city coming over the hill, and there it is in front of you. city coming over the hill, and there it is in front of you.
772 00:52:24,600 00:52:26,160 Vatican down there. Vatican down there.
773 00:52:27,720 00:52:32,600 Imagine coming here and really believing in your very core Imagine coming here and really believing in your very core
774 00:52:32,600 00:52:35,680 that your soul would benefit from this journey, that your soul would benefit from this journey,
775 00:52:35,680 00:52:38,080 from arriving here. from arriving here.
776 00:52:38,080 00:52:41,080 You think what's wrapped up in that. You think what's wrapped up in that.
777 00:52:41,080 00:52:45,680 The history, the culture, the power, the civilisation, The history, the culture, the power, the civilisation,
778 00:52:45,680 00:52:46,720 the religion. the religion.
779 00:52:49,280 00:52:53,840 Not just generations of it, but century after century. Not just generations of it, but century after century.
780 00:52:53,840 00:52:58,400 It's been one of the planet's great destinations. It's been one of the planet's great destinations.
781 00:53:05,720 00:53:07,320 And still today, And still today,
782 00:53:07,320 00:53:11,040 Rome pulls in the crowds like no other pilgrimage site in Europe. Rome pulls in the crowds like no other pilgrimage site in Europe.
783 00:53:17,920 00:53:20,560 People come to Rome now in their millions for all sorts of People come to Rome now in their millions for all sorts of
784 00:53:20,560 00:53:24,960 reasons, but what really drew people in the past, pilgrims particularly, reasons, but what really drew people in the past, pilgrims particularly,
785 00:53:24,960 00:53:28,520 was the incredible collection of relics that were housed here. was the incredible collection of relics that were housed here.
786 00:53:28,520 00:53:32,720 For hundreds of years, Rome had the finest collection of relics For hundreds of years, Rome had the finest collection of relics
787 00:53:32,720 00:53:35,440 in the world, including the Ark Of The Covenant, in the world, including the Ark Of The Covenant,
788 00:53:35,440 00:53:38,640 the tablets of Moses and even, apparently, the tablets of Moses and even, apparently,
789 00:53:38,640 00:53:40,680 Jesus' foreskin and his umbilical cord. Jesus' foreskin and his umbilical cord.
790 00:53:44,280 00:53:46,480 It would have taken Medieval pilgrims months It would have taken Medieval pilgrims months
791 00:53:46,480 00:53:48,160 to walk here from Britain. to walk here from Britain.
792 00:53:48,160 00:53:51,360 They would have been exhausted, but the city that awaited them They would have been exhausted, but the city that awaited them
793 00:53:51,360 00:53:52,560 had its disappointments. had its disappointments.
794 00:53:54,400 00:53:56,760 Many of the buildings were in ruins. Many of the buildings were in ruins.
795 00:53:56,760 00:54:01,800 Some of them were being quarried and mined for building material. Some of them were being quarried and mined for building material.
796 00:54:01,800 00:54:05,080 It would have been a huge shock to pilgrims arriving here. It would have been a huge shock to pilgrims arriving here.
797 00:54:05,080 00:54:07,840 They'd heard tales of this grand city, They'd heard tales of this grand city,
798 00:54:07,840 00:54:11,080 but the glory days of the Roman Empire were long past. but the glory days of the Roman Empire were long past.
799 00:54:35,000 00:54:37,480 The Tiber in those days as well The Tiber in those days as well
800 00:54:37,480 00:54:41,680 wasn't the pleasant, flowing river that it is today. wasn't the pleasant, flowing river that it is today.
801 00:54:41,680 00:54:44,880 In fact, it was a bit of a mosquito-infested swamp. In fact, it was a bit of a mosquito-infested swamp.
802 00:54:46,600 00:54:49,400 That was another great threat to pilgrims and travellers That was another great threat to pilgrims and travellers
803 00:54:49,400 00:54:52,840 because, of course, mosquitoes often carry disease because, of course, mosquitoes often carry disease
804 00:54:52,840 00:54:59,240 and Italy wasn't declared malaria-free until 1970. and Italy wasn't declared malaria-free until 1970.
805 00:54:59,240 00:55:03,080 Pilgrims who came here contracted it, and speaking of somebody who Pilgrims who came here contracted it, and speaking of somebody who
806 00:55:03,080 00:55:07,200 also managed to get it, although in Africa, I can assure you also managed to get it, although in Africa, I can assure you
807 00:55:07,200 00:55:10,440 it's about the most unpleasant thing you can go through in life. it's about the most unpleasant thing you can go through in life.
808 00:55:21,320 00:55:24,320 Despite all the threats and the challenges that faced them Despite all the threats and the challenges that faced them
809 00:55:24,320 00:55:26,920 on their long journey, and even when they got to Rome, on their long journey, and even when they got to Rome,
810 00:55:26,920 00:55:30,160 pilgrims kept coming, and they came for one thing in particular. pilgrims kept coming, and they came for one thing in particular.
811 00:55:35,200 00:55:38,760 St Peter's and the Vatican is where the apostle Peter was martyred, St Peter's and the Vatican is where the apostle Peter was martyred,
812 00:55:38,760 00:55:40,280 crucified upside down. crucified upside down.
813 00:55:41,880 00:55:43,520 This is the perfect time to be here. This is the perfect time to be here.
814 00:55:43,520 00:55:46,920 It's 10:45 on a Sunday morning, It's 10:45 on a Sunday morning,
815 00:55:46,920 00:55:48,440 and people are gathering. and people are gathering.
816 00:55:49,800 00:55:52,240 I've come to St Peter's Square at a time when I've come to St Peter's Square at a time when
817 00:55:52,240 00:55:56,000 pilgrims arrive in their thousands to be blessed by the Pope. pilgrims arrive in their thousands to be blessed by the Pope.
818 00:55:57,880 00:56:00,720 People have come here from all over the world. People have come here from all over the world.
819 00:56:00,720 00:56:03,200 I can see the flags of Brazil, I can see the flags of Brazil,
820 00:56:03,200 00:56:06,920 India over there, Poland, Argentina. India over there, Poland, Argentina.
821 00:56:06,920 00:56:10,120 They're here for the Pope, they're here for the Vatican, They're here for the Pope, they're here for the Vatican,
822 00:56:10,120 00:56:11,960 and Rome, of course, is still and Rome, of course, is still
823 00:56:11,960 00:56:14,840 the biggest pilgrimage destination in Europe. the biggest pilgrimage destination in Europe.
824 00:56:17,360 00:56:19,080 Travelling across the Continent, Travelling across the Continent,
825 00:56:19,080 00:56:22,840 I'd seen the powerful effects holy places had on pilgrims, I'd seen the powerful effects holy places had on pilgrims,
826 00:56:22,840 00:56:25,200 but this was a much jollier gathering. but this was a much jollier gathering.
827 00:56:25,200 00:56:28,040 We weren't seeing yet another bit of bone belonging to a saint We weren't seeing yet another bit of bone belonging to a saint
828 00:56:28,040 00:56:30,320 who lived hundreds of years ago. who lived hundreds of years ago.
829 00:56:30,320 00:56:31,760 For Catholics in the Square, For Catholics in the Square,
830 00:56:31,760 00:56:35,640 the living father of their church was about to appear. the living father of their church was about to appear.
831 00:56:35,640 00:56:37,600 Look at the tiny little figure up there! Look at the tiny little figure up there!
832 00:56:37,600 00:56:39,240 CROWD CHEERS AND APPLAUDS CROWD CHEERS AND APPLAUDS
833 00:56:39,240 00:56:41,560 It is astonishing how many people are here, It is astonishing how many people are here,
834 00:56:41,560 00:56:45,400 but this is an audience - not a very private audience - but this is an audience - not a very private audience -
835 00:56:45,400 00:56:49,280 but one nonetheless, with a man who's close to God, but one nonetheless, with a man who's close to God,
836 00:56:49,280 00:56:52,040 but somebody who is a very big celebrity as well. but somebody who is a very big celebrity as well.
837 00:56:55,640 00:56:58,240 CHEERING CHEERING
838 00:57:13,920 00:57:15,360 CHEERING CHEERING
839 00:57:15,360 00:57:17,880 This was the end of a journey that had taught me much This was the end of a journey that had taught me much
840 00:57:17,880 00:57:21,040 about the history and beliefs of the Continent. about the history and beliefs of the Continent.
841 00:57:21,040 00:57:23,800 I really feel I've come to understand how pilgrimage I really feel I've come to understand how pilgrimage
842 00:57:23,800 00:57:28,920 has helped to define routes and towns and cities across Europe has helped to define routes and towns and cities across Europe
843 00:57:28,920 00:57:31,480 and how it continues to define them today. and how it continues to define them today.
844 00:57:35,320 00:57:38,720 I'd learned that European pilgrimage has always been a challenge, I'd learned that European pilgrimage has always been a challenge,
845 00:57:38,720 00:57:41,560 but a great opportunity for adventure. but a great opportunity for adventure.
846 00:57:41,560 00:57:44,000 And clearly, for those who follow a pilgrim's path, And clearly, for those who follow a pilgrim's path,
847 00:57:44,000 00:57:46,480 it's about what they discover on the way, it's about what they discover on the way,
848 00:57:46,480 00:57:50,400 and about themselves, and not just about racing for the journey's end. and about themselves, and not just about racing for the journey's end.
849 00:58:01,200 00:58:03,720 CHEERING CHEERING
850 00:58:08,280 00:58:10,800 'Next time, on the final leg of my travels, 'Next time, on the final leg of my travels,
851 00:58:10,800 00:58:12,680 'I go from Turkey to the Holy Land...' 'I go from Turkey to the Holy Land...'
852 00:58:13,680 00:58:15,600 I can't quite believe it. I can't quite believe it.
853 00:58:15,600 00:58:18,880 The Church of the Nativity! I'm in Bethlehem. The Church of the Nativity! I'm in Bethlehem.
854 00:58:18,880 00:58:22,520 '..and finish my journey in the city of Jerusalem.' '..and finish my journey in the city of Jerusalem.'
855 00:58:24,040 00:58:26,600 It's...utterly overwhelming. It's...utterly overwhelming.
856 00:58:50,920 00:58:54,320 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd