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For centuries, pilgrimage was
one of the greatest adventures.
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Epic journeys around the country...
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You're going the wrong way. This is
the Pilgrim's Way to Canterbury!
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..and across the world!
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'I'll be retracing
the steps of our ancestors.'
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Oh!
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It's the spot where
Jesus is said to have been born.
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'Exploring the hidden...'
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Some people might think
this is quite macabre.
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'..and the darker side
of pilgrimage.'
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What this gives a sense of
is the scale of prostitution.
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And discovering why so many modern
pilgrims are taking to the road.
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Come on, now, that was incredible!
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My journey has taken me from
the north of England to Canterbury.
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On this leg, I'm travelling through
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France into northern Spain,
Switzerland and on to Rome.
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Rome!
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Then I'll journey east into Turkey,
across the Mediterranean
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into the Holy Land,
to my final destination...Jerusalem.
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It's a gobsmacker.
It's a breath-taker-awayer.
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I was close to the coast
in northern France.
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For centuries, pilgrims from the
British Isles have arrived here
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on the mainland of Europe,
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and begun epic treks
across the Continent.
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They went on arduous journeys
in search of shrines
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and holy sites,
along well-trodden paths.
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I do LOVE the simple act of walking.
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Much underrated now, when we can
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all just jump in our cars
and go anywhere.
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One foot in front of the other,
the rhythm soon emerges.
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Many British and European pilgrims
were inspired by religious devotion,
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but some were also looking for
excitement, romance and adventure.
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In the 9th century, priests were
criticised for going on pilgrimage
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just to escape their duties.
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In the 13th century, a French bishop
complained people were
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going on pilgrimage out of mere
curiosity and the love of novelty.
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They weren't so unlike us.
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The thrill of travelling in
foreign lands still draws people
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to ancient pilgrim routes today.
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I met up with Ian Broderick
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who's walked thousands of miles
across the Continent.
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I've walked along this coast
to Rome and Jerusalem.
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You've walked to Jerusalem?!
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I have, indeed.
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My goodness. That's...
I find that very inspiring.
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Yes, surprising, isn't it?
SIMON LAUGHS
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When you go on your epic walks,
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are you going for reasons
of piety and devotion
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or for adventure as well?
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To define pilgrimage
is a very complicated thing.
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It can be many things,
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and the modern pilgrim isn't a
purely devotional Christian pilgrim.
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We walk with more
intention of discovery.
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A lot of people say that pilgrimage
mimics life. It's difficult,
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it's tiring and there are events
that surprise us,
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but the thing that I think
surprises a lot of people
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is HOW they are on a pilgrimage
and what happens to them.
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There's absolutely
no hiding place on a pilgrimage
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if you're honest with yourself.
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Because you're alone
with your thoughts and your...?
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And everything.
Your emotions, aspirations and hopes.
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It's all there while you're walking.
It unfolds with you.
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I found Ian
and what he's done really inspiring.
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I think most people -
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if they'd heard there's someone
who's walked to Jerusalem -
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would think they're
completely bonkers,
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but, of course, Ian's right.
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Travelling over land on foot
is by far the most exciting
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and interesting and memorable way
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to engage with a country
and a landscape.
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He has had experience and racked up
memories the like of which
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most people can't even
begin to imagine.
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The 500 years up to the
early 16th century are considered
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the golden age of pilgrimage
in Europe.
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In some years, a fifth of the
population of the Continent
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was either on pilgrimage
or directly involved
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in the industry of inns
and churches and hostels
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that sprung up around it.
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As pilgrim numbers increased,
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villages near popular shrines
developed into towns.
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Pilgrimage helped to shape Europe.
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I've reached the small town
of Saint-Omer,
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which is probably
one of the first places
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that British pilgrims coming
to France would have arrived in.
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They'd have headed
for the cathedral.
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The town of Saint-Omer
is just 30 miles inland
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from the English Channel.
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I followed in the footsteps
of medieval pilgrims, who would have
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marked their journeys with regular
stops for prayers along the way.
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HE GASPS
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(There are three people here
praying.)
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The cathedral was built and added to
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between the 13th
and 16th centuries.
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It's since survived
the ravages of war and revolution
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and remains a fairly spectacular bit
of Gothic architecture.
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There is something
awe-inspiring about...
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cathedrals on a scale like this.
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But cathedrals needed to make sure
visitors kept coming.
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A church like this would have
really benefited from advertising
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the potential and power
of its relic.
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Now a relic would be a bit
of a saint or even a bit of cloth
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worn by a saint.
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A church wanted to have one
that people believed in
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because if they believed in it,
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then they would travel
a great distance to witness it,
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to try and touch it, and, of course,
pilgrims meant money.
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It meant money for the upkeep
of the church, but also the wealth
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and prosperity of the community
around it, so relics had
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an enormous religious power,
but also an economic power as well.
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The relic here is
the tomb of Saint Erkembode,
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a 7th century Irish monk
who became the bishop of the area.
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He spent much of his time
travelling huge distances on foot
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helping the poor.
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By the end of his life, his devotion
had left him unable to walk.
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He became the patron saint
of children who have
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difficulties in walking, and
pilgrims came here hoping for cures.
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To my surprise, they still do.
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There's a prayer here.
It says, "Pray for our little baby."
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He's five-years-old. He's not well.
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He has to have surgery soon
on his legs.
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I've got a two-year-old son.
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He has...shoes that are of
a similar size to this.
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I find it almost...
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It is heartbreaking to see this.
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And I know that if he had a problem,
there is nothing I would not do.
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There would be no lengths
I wouldn't go to.
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No God I wouldn't pray to...
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to try and get help for him.
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I can almost sense the desperation
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that accompanies
the placing of these shoes.
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We cling to hope at difficult times.
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And I sense that's what
a lot of these shoes signify.
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We're speeding across France.
It's such a lovely way to travel.
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Got a little map which shows modern
pilgrimage routes across Europe,
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but they're all based on
ancient routes...
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..and what I find really
fascinating is just how they form
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an almost web across the Continent.
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The pilgrimage routes across Europe
became our major routes
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and motorways today.
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In Western Europe there are now
believed to be
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more than 6,000 pilgrimage sites.
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They attract tens of millions
of visitors every year,
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helping to drive tourism and travel.
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I was heading towards a Spanish town
that, by the early 12th century,
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ranked alongside Rome
and even Jerusalem
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as one of the holiest places
on Earth.
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To get there, pilgrims followed an
ancient route known as the Camino.
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It stretches over 500 miles.
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Starting in France, it climbs over
the Pyrenees, winds through
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northern Spain, and finishes in the
Holy City of Santiago de Compostela.
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I arrived in the French border town
of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port,
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bustling with pilgrims
preparing for their epic trek
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along the Camino route to Santiago.
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It's quite ironic, really,
how a town like this now makes
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such a living off the new pilgrims
who aren't just tourists,
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I suppose, they are adventure
hikers in many respects.
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Travelling has never been easier,
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but the Camino is still drawing
people from across the world,
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who want to make the journey
by foot the old-fashioned way.
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It also seems to attract
a certain hardy and determined type.
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I bumped into Lorna Jeanne,
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who as a child was caught
in a house fire in her home.
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Yeah, my parents...
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The house blew up
and I was trapped inside, but...
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Have you had many operations?
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Oh, yeah. In the first nine months,
72. They lost count after that.
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72 operations?
In the first nine months.
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That's the first nine... And do you
still have to have surgeries?
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I should, but I don't...
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I don't want to take the time out
to be laid up.
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The time out of life? Yeah.
I don't let anything get in my way.
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Just look out, here I come!
SHE LAUGHS
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The Camino has become one
of the most popular long distance
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pilgrimage routes in the world.
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Nearly 200,000 hikers and bikers
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completed the 500-mile route
in 2012 alone.
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Don't let the Toytown train
deceive you.
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The rest of the walk
to Santiago de Compostelo
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won't be...a theme park ride.
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It's arduous, it's a tough walk.
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We didn't have time for me
to trek the entire route,
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which can take a month to six weeks,
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but I was able to get a real sense
of the journey,
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which ultimately leads to a shrine
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dedicated to one of the
12 apostles of Jesus.
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In the 9th century, a Spanish bishop
made the rather surprising
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announcement that the remains of
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St James had been found in what's
now Santiago de Compostela.
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Countless pilgrims have
since walked this way.
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Just look at the wind
playing across the field here.
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Most medieval Christians believed
their place in heaven
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would be secured if they embarked
on journeys of endurance,
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suffering and sacrifice.
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Look at the countryside here
that you walk through.
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It doesn't entirely strike me
as penance.
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By the 13th century, around half
a million pilgrims a year
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were walking to Santiago.
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An astonishing figure when
the entire population of Europe
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was little more than 70 million.
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The economic benefits to communities
along the route were enormous.
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Pilgrimage wasn't cheap.
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There was food, donations,
and places to stay to be paid for.
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Most travellers had to pay tolls,
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but the pilgrims were
supposed to be exempt.
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It was a system that didn't always
work as it was supposed to,
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so sometimes merchants pretended to
be pilgrims, and sometimes pilgrims
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were unlawfully charged when they
should have been allowed to travel
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for free, but there was a system,
even if sometimes it broke down.
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This is the town of
Santo Domingo de la Calzada,
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which developed to cater
for pilgrims.
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The cathedral adopted a local
legend as a real miracle.
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Even today, it encourages
pilgrims in through the doors.
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The eye is initially drawn to
this incredible shrine here.
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A vision in gold.
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But in reality,
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most people come here to have
a look at this over here.
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COCKEREL CROWS
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Chickens!
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This is a bit bonkers.
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There is a long story behind this.
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Basically,
a young man was unjustly hung
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and even though he was still
swinging
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with his head in the noose, his
parents realised he was still alive
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and they ran to see the local judge
and said,
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"Our son was wrongly hanged and he's
still alive", and the judge said
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"Nonsense! Your son is no
more alive than this roast chicken
that I'm eating here."
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At which point, the chicken
came back to life,
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jumped up
and walked around on the table.
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COCKEREL CROWS
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It's not a story
I really like actually,
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because I tend to think
of our ancestors as being not that
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dissimilar from us,
and perhaps being a bit wise
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and cynical as well, but this story
suggests they'd believe anything.
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It is very relevant to pilgrimage
in the spreading of stories.
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It does suggest to me that however
unbelievable a tale might be,
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if it has strong religious tones
to it,
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then a cathedral will stick with it,
go with it,
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and make of it as much as they can.
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Camino!
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00:15:46,320 --> 00:15:49,600
By the 16th century,
the Camino was in decline,
241
00:15:49,600 --> 00:15:52,400
caused partly by outbreaks
of disease and war
242
00:15:52,400 --> 00:15:55,000
and the rise of
Protestant Christianity,
243
00:15:55,000 --> 00:15:57,120
which was opposed to pilgrimage.
244
00:15:57,120 --> 00:16:00,480
But in the last 30 years,
the Camino's been revived.
245
00:16:00,480 --> 00:16:03,080
Travellers have increased 100-fold.
246
00:16:03,080 --> 00:16:05,440
How much weight are you
carrying on there?
247
00:16:05,440 --> 00:16:08,160
I think maybe 15 with the water.
248
00:16:08,160 --> 00:16:11,480
15 kilograms? Yeah.
How much is Julie carrying?
249
00:16:11,480 --> 00:16:12,520
Maybe two?
250
00:16:12,520 --> 00:16:14,280
THEY LAUGH
251
00:16:15,400 --> 00:16:17,960
I met an Australian couple,
Julie and Owen,
252
00:16:17,960 --> 00:16:20,160
who were ten days into their Camino.
253
00:16:21,720 --> 00:16:25,320
It's a unique way to see a country.
254
00:16:25,320 --> 00:16:27,760
The fact that it happens
over a span of days,
255
00:16:27,760 --> 00:16:30,840
it gives you a really different
sort of outlook on it.
256
00:16:30,840 --> 00:16:32,320
It's amazing.
257
00:16:32,320 --> 00:16:35,120
Are you both people of faith?
258
00:16:35,120 --> 00:16:37,240
No, it's secular.
259
00:16:37,240 --> 00:16:40,280
It's a bit of a self discovery
and a kind of a...
260
00:16:40,280 --> 00:16:45,000
a...you know, relationship
exercise in a way.
261
00:16:45,000 --> 00:16:48,680
I don't want to be too cheeky,
but what do you mean?
262
00:16:48,680 --> 00:16:49,760
I don't know.
263
00:16:49,760 --> 00:16:53,400
You know, you're with somebody
all day, every day,
264
00:16:53,400 --> 00:16:56,320
and often completely isolated.
265
00:16:58,000 --> 00:16:59,600
You know, and it's...
266
00:16:59,600 --> 00:17:01,480
I guess when you've reached your...
267
00:17:01,480 --> 00:17:06,040
a bit of a pain threshold, you can
get just a little bit testy,
268
00:17:06,040 --> 00:17:08,920
but that's
when the patience needs to come in.
269
00:17:08,920 --> 00:17:12,440
Yeah, and just go OK, it's all right,
we're not on the schedule.
270
00:17:12,440 --> 00:17:14,360
We can rest if we need to.
271
00:17:14,360 --> 00:17:17,360
Walk with someone
and you really, er,
272
00:17:17,360 --> 00:17:20,840
you learn a lot about them
and yourself. Mmm.
273
00:17:20,840 --> 00:17:22,560
For better or worse. Yep.
274
00:17:33,360 --> 00:17:36,400
Walking the Camino is about more
than just putting one foot
275
00:17:36,400 --> 00:17:40,360
in front of the other, setting a
target and reaching the destination.
276
00:17:43,360 --> 00:17:46,480
The simple act of walking for hours,
even days on end,
277
00:17:46,480 --> 00:17:49,440
gives you something we don't often
get in the 21st century -
278
00:17:49,440 --> 00:17:50,840
a time to reflect.
279
00:17:53,400 --> 00:17:56,960
I suppose the most frightening
thing for me about it is that
280
00:17:56,960 --> 00:18:00,560
you are left alone
with your thoughts in many cases.
281
00:18:03,600 --> 00:18:06,200
And personally,
I find that frightening.
282
00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:09,040
It's not that I've got
demons in my mind.
283
00:18:09,040 --> 00:18:12,080
It's just so many things to
think about.
284
00:18:13,640 --> 00:18:15,080
So many life issues,
285
00:18:15,080 --> 00:18:18,440
so many challenges
I'll start to dwell on.
286
00:18:20,480 --> 00:18:23,600
We occupy ourselves
so much now to try and
287
00:18:23,600 --> 00:18:27,640
perhaps avoid considering
aspects of life like that.
288
00:18:27,640 --> 00:18:31,120
We separate ourselves off from
having to think about those
289
00:18:31,120 --> 00:18:34,840
sort of things, and on a walk
like this, on a pilgrimage,
290
00:18:34,840 --> 00:18:37,360
on a long walk,
you're confronted by them.
291
00:18:44,680 --> 00:18:48,560
Around half those walking the Camino
are no longer religious pilgrims.
292
00:18:48,560 --> 00:18:52,040
At least in the medieval
sense of penance and suffering.
293
00:18:52,040 --> 00:18:54,800
It seemed to me they're often
well-off adventure hikers,
294
00:18:54,800 --> 00:18:57,680
seeking an experience
they'll remember for ever.
295
00:18:58,680 --> 00:19:01,680
Many choose to stay overnight at
one of the scores of pilgrim
296
00:19:01,680 --> 00:19:03,000
hostels along the route.
297
00:19:04,040 --> 00:19:06,520
Wow. That's where we're going.
298
00:19:08,640 --> 00:19:11,400
There's a whole infrastructure
along the Camino, catering
299
00:19:11,400 --> 00:19:15,520
for the needs of modern travellers,
just as there was in medieval times.
300
00:19:17,960 --> 00:19:19,800
Hola. Hola.
301
00:19:20,960 --> 00:19:22,880
This is the hostel of San Nicolas.
302
00:19:27,400 --> 00:19:28,840
Look at this place!
303
00:19:30,720 --> 00:19:34,200
Macarrones. Pasta Italiana.
304
00:19:34,200 --> 00:19:37,800
It's run by a religious charity
who provide weary pilgrims with
305
00:19:37,800 --> 00:19:41,280
a hearty meal and a very welcome
bed for the night.
306
00:19:41,280 --> 00:19:43,000
Augusto. Augusto.
307
00:19:43,000 --> 00:19:44,680
Augusto. Encantada.
308
00:19:44,680 --> 00:19:46,760
Very nice to meet you. Habla ingles?
309
00:19:47,920 --> 00:19:49,000
Very bit.
310
00:19:49,000 --> 00:19:50,840
Very bit. A little. Yeah, yeah.
311
00:19:50,840 --> 00:19:54,440
But you have a good firm handshake
and that's what matters!
312
00:19:56,000 --> 00:19:59,600
BELL RINGS
313
00:20:04,680 --> 00:20:07,880
Before dinner, the hosts at this
hostel gather everyone together
314
00:20:07,880 --> 00:20:09,880
to perform a religious ritual.
315
00:20:14,200 --> 00:20:16,280
They're going to wash our feet.
316
00:20:16,280 --> 00:20:18,080
One foot.
317
00:20:18,080 --> 00:20:19,360
My goodness.
318
00:20:22,440 --> 00:20:25,480
Cleaning the smelly feet of
two dozen hikers struck me
319
00:20:25,480 --> 00:20:27,720
as an act of extreme
penitence by the hosts.
320
00:20:29,040 --> 00:20:31,960
HOST SPEAKS IN SPANISH
321
00:20:36,760 --> 00:20:39,240
For me it was a rather
humbling experience.
322
00:20:41,480 --> 00:20:44,080
Gracias. Gracias.
323
00:20:44,080 --> 00:20:47,600
There was an intimate feel to
the hostel that I really enjoyed.
324
00:20:47,600 --> 00:20:50,520
It was a chance to share a meal
and stories with fellow travellers
325
00:20:50,520 --> 00:20:53,480
and discover their reasons
for walking the Camino.
326
00:21:01,560 --> 00:21:04,840
Ramina and Natalia had come all
the way from South America.
327
00:21:04,840 --> 00:21:07,360
Can you tell us
why you're doing this?
328
00:21:13,960 --> 00:21:16,440
Are you very religious? No.
329
00:21:23,000 --> 00:21:26,760
And it's a big meditation.
All day you're walking, and your...
330
00:21:26,760 --> 00:21:30,560
all your head is doing...
remember your family.
331
00:21:30,560 --> 00:21:34,640
Remember your, I don't know, all
your life goes through your head.
332
00:21:34,640 --> 00:21:40,840
All day long, because you're walking
and you're alone, and it's good.
333
00:21:40,840 --> 00:21:45,840
You think about lots of stuff you
never did, or questioned before.
334
00:21:48,040 --> 00:21:50,680
Have you had moments
while you've been walking
335
00:21:50,680 --> 00:21:56,760
when you've been thinking almost too
much and the tears start to flow?
336
00:21:56,760 --> 00:21:59,040
No tears. No tears.
337
00:21:59,040 --> 00:22:01,200
Angry! I want to get there.
338
00:22:02,440 --> 00:22:03,760
It's very brave of you.
339
00:22:04,800 --> 00:22:07,840
We are brave! It's OK.
340
00:22:16,440 --> 00:22:22,200
There's a real community along the
Camino that I haven't expected,
341
00:22:22,200 --> 00:22:24,800
and been quite surprised to
experience here.
342
00:22:27,080 --> 00:22:29,240
I can completely see the attraction.
343
00:22:29,240 --> 00:22:33,080
I think it's a magnificent and
completely memorable thing to do.
344
00:22:34,080 --> 00:22:39,280
I've been blessed with a lot of
travel experiences in recent years.
345
00:22:39,280 --> 00:22:43,120
The last ten years particularly.
But I won't forget this.
346
00:22:44,400 --> 00:22:47,240
I think that's why a lot of people
are doing it as well.
347
00:22:47,240 --> 00:22:50,200
It does provide you with experiences
that you're going to remember.
348
00:22:56,680 --> 00:22:59,320
COCKEREL CROWS
349
00:23:12,560 --> 00:23:15,360
NEARBY BUSTLE AND CHATTER
350
00:23:18,520 --> 00:23:20,680
Oh, everybody else appears to be up.
351
00:23:23,040 --> 00:23:26,040
This lot are all hardcore,
aren't they?
352
00:23:26,040 --> 00:23:29,880
Hardcore by my standards anyway!
07:30.
353
00:23:29,880 --> 00:23:31,280
They've up and left.
354
00:23:33,640 --> 00:23:35,880
I think I'd better follow them
on the path.
355
00:23:44,600 --> 00:23:47,480
There are many different reasons
to walk the Camino.
356
00:23:47,480 --> 00:23:50,960
A time to think,
religious devotion, or for many,
357
00:23:50,960 --> 00:23:54,960
the sheer physical challenge
of completing an epic journey.
358
00:23:54,960 --> 00:23:57,160
But everyone shares the same goal.
359
00:23:57,160 --> 00:24:01,040
The city of Santiago de Compostela,
home to the shrine of St James.
360
00:24:02,400 --> 00:24:04,560
CHEERING AND APPLAUSE
361
00:24:05,920 --> 00:24:08,520
In the main square of the town,
pilgrims and walkers
362
00:24:08,520 --> 00:24:11,560
were arriving and celebrating
the end of their Camino.
363
00:24:11,560 --> 00:24:13,160
# And cheer with voices true
364
00:24:13,160 --> 00:24:15,880
# Rah-rah for Notre Dame
(YOU RAH-RAH!)
365
00:24:15,880 --> 00:24:18,600
# We will fight in every game
366
00:24:18,600 --> 00:24:23,280
# While her loyal sons are marching
onward to victory
367
00:24:23,280 --> 00:24:29,720
# For Notre Dame. #
368
00:24:30,800 --> 00:24:33,840
Come on, now, that was incredible!
369
00:24:33,840 --> 00:24:36,720
Surround sound effect.
You cannot buy that!
370
00:24:36,720 --> 00:24:38,440
Thank you very much.
371
00:24:38,440 --> 00:24:40,200
If you want to,
though, we've got CDs!
372
00:24:40,200 --> 00:24:42,160
LAUGHTER
373
00:24:48,080 --> 00:24:51,000
For someone without faith like me,
the tale of how St James
374
00:24:51,000 --> 00:24:54,120
ended up here is frankly
pretty unbelievable.
375
00:24:54,120 --> 00:24:56,840
Apparently James was
beheaded in the Holy Land,
376
00:24:56,840 --> 00:25:00,160
but stories say his remains were
put into a crewless stone boat
377
00:25:00,160 --> 00:25:03,600
that angels helped transport
to northern Spain.
378
00:25:03,600 --> 00:25:06,920
Scallop shells worn by pilgrims
testify to one of the miracles
379
00:25:06,920 --> 00:25:09,920
that followed, when a horse
and rider were saved from the sea
380
00:25:09,920 --> 00:25:11,760
and emerged covered in shells.
381
00:25:13,920 --> 00:25:18,440
I met up with author Nancy Frey, who
guides pilgrims along the Camino.
382
00:25:18,440 --> 00:25:22,160
She's also studied how the city of
Santiago developed around St James
383
00:25:22,160 --> 00:25:24,960
and how it's still
defined by pilgrimage today.
384
00:25:24,960 --> 00:25:28,680
So is Santiago, then, one of the
best examples of a town or city
385
00:25:28,680 --> 00:25:34,320
that owes its entire existence to
a holy shrine and to pilgrimage?
386
00:25:34,320 --> 00:25:37,960
Absolutely, and what is remarkable
is that it was competing with
387
00:25:37,960 --> 00:25:39,960
thousands of other sites.
388
00:25:39,960 --> 00:25:42,680
And what is amazing is that it really
389
00:25:42,680 --> 00:25:45,680
rose to the surface of all
of the other ones
390
00:25:45,680 --> 00:25:50,000
because James is said to be
one of Christ's inner circle.
391
00:25:50,000 --> 00:25:52,560
He's one of the most
important apostles. Mm.
392
00:25:52,560 --> 00:25:56,520
He's someone who's referred to at key
moments in the ministry of Christ
393
00:25:56,520 --> 00:26:00,600
and they had his whole body here.
394
00:26:00,600 --> 00:26:05,720
And that obviously helped to sustain
Christianity in Spain, didn't it?
395
00:26:05,720 --> 00:26:09,800
Absolutely, because it becomes
an anchor point for
396
00:26:09,800 --> 00:26:13,120
this pilgrimage, for Christianity,
in the whole north west,
397
00:26:13,120 --> 00:26:18,280
and at the same time as telling the
evolving story of Spain's history.
398
00:26:19,880 --> 00:26:21,120
In the 8th century,
399
00:26:21,120 --> 00:26:23,880
Spain was invaded by the Moors
from North Africa,
400
00:26:23,880 --> 00:26:27,720
and became predominantly
Muslim for more than 700 years.
401
00:26:27,720 --> 00:26:30,280
But a pocket of Christianity
remained in the remote north
402
00:26:30,280 --> 00:26:33,360
in the area around what's now
Santiago.
403
00:26:33,360 --> 00:26:36,400
So it was rather convenient that
the remains of St James
404
00:26:36,400 --> 00:26:38,800
were discovered
here in the 9th century.
405
00:26:38,800 --> 00:26:40,920
They became a rallying point
for Christians
406
00:26:40,920 --> 00:26:42,520
trying to reclaim the country.
407
00:26:44,080 --> 00:26:47,200
Ironically, James,
a fisherman who became an apostle,
408
00:26:47,200 --> 00:26:50,920
was used in death to encourage
Christian soldiers.
409
00:26:50,920 --> 00:26:54,480
He became a lucky warrior mascot
who was said to appear at key
410
00:26:54,480 --> 00:26:56,640
battles against the Moors,
411
00:26:56,640 --> 00:26:59,800
but today he's most often
pictured as a humble pilgrim.
412
00:27:01,040 --> 00:27:03,560
He has all of these facets.
413
00:27:03,560 --> 00:27:06,680
There's this important figure next
to Christ as an apostle,
414
00:27:06,680 --> 00:27:11,040
and then as this figure of movement,
of a journey, discovery,
415
00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:15,360
the spirituality, and then of course
used as a military figure.
416
00:27:15,360 --> 00:27:18,560
And this is one of the reasons
why I think it has been such
417
00:27:18,560 --> 00:27:21,560
a successful image,
because it is malleable.
418
00:27:21,560 --> 00:27:25,760
You can change him and he has been
changed and manipulated over time.
419
00:27:25,760 --> 00:27:27,280
So is he really in there?
420
00:27:27,280 --> 00:27:28,880
I don't think it really matters
421
00:27:28,880 --> 00:27:32,000
because people have been believing
for more than a thousand years
422
00:27:32,000 --> 00:27:36,240
that he is there, and it has the
consequence, the result of that
423
00:27:36,240 --> 00:27:39,280
has been the creation of this
remarkable way
424
00:27:39,280 --> 00:27:43,920
and the presence of millions of
people over the last thousand years,
425
00:27:43,920 --> 00:27:48,640
who have believed or who have
come here to visit this place or to
426
00:27:48,640 --> 00:27:52,760
journey, to have their own journey
of discovery, and here they are.
427
00:27:52,760 --> 00:27:55,920
So it doesn't matter whether there
are bones or not because it's here.
428
00:27:57,000 --> 00:27:58,560
Whether the remains of St James
429
00:27:58,560 --> 00:28:01,720
are here or not, the cathedral
to house his legend took more
430
00:28:01,720 --> 00:28:03,400
than 100 years to complete.
431
00:28:05,960 --> 00:28:09,680
It was finally consecrated
in the early 13th century.
432
00:28:09,680 --> 00:28:13,160
It was designed to impress.
A job it still does today.
433
00:28:14,760 --> 00:28:16,160
Now that is a vision.
434
00:28:18,360 --> 00:28:20,120
Look at it!
435
00:28:20,120 --> 00:28:22,880
The light streaming down,
it looks ethereal.
436
00:28:24,680 --> 00:28:26,360
Not of this world.
437
00:28:30,680 --> 00:28:36,480
I think it's quite hard to imagine
how a pilgrim who has trekked
438
00:28:36,480 --> 00:28:40,800
here would feel at that sight,
but surely you would...
439
00:28:40,800 --> 00:28:45,480
I feel, as a person without faith, I
feel in the presence of something...
440
00:28:46,640 --> 00:28:48,520
..something holy.
441
00:28:48,520 --> 00:28:51,400
CHORAL SINGING
442
00:28:56,920 --> 00:29:00,720
Thousands of walkers and cyclists
were crammed into the cathedral
443
00:29:00,720 --> 00:29:05,320
for the Sunday Mass, which for many
marks the end of their journey.
444
00:29:05,320 --> 00:29:07,360
There are even some
local worshippers.
445
00:29:14,600 --> 00:29:17,600
As the bags are going around,
I can hear all the coins
446
00:29:17,600 --> 00:29:19,000
and the money jangling.
447
00:29:22,560 --> 00:29:26,080
A cathedral like this would earn
a fortune from pilgrims.
448
00:29:34,200 --> 00:29:35,680
The finale of the Mass
449
00:29:35,680 --> 00:29:38,600
involves one of the world's
largest incense burners.
450
00:29:40,080 --> 00:29:42,720
HE SPEAKS IN SPANISH
451
00:30:07,240 --> 00:30:11,040
They used to do this to fumigate
the stench from the pilgrims
452
00:30:11,040 --> 00:30:13,040
massed into the cathedral.
453
00:30:13,040 --> 00:30:15,960
Now of course they still do
it for religious reasons,
454
00:30:15,960 --> 00:30:17,720
but it's part of the drama.
455
00:30:17,720 --> 00:30:20,520
It's part of the theatre
of the whole occasion.
456
00:30:20,520 --> 00:30:23,480
This is what makes it such
an event for people
457
00:30:23,480 --> 00:30:25,760
finishing their pilgrimage.
APPLAUSE
458
00:30:25,760 --> 00:30:27,200
Listen to that!
459
00:30:30,360 --> 00:30:33,640
While these travellers celebrated
the end of their journey,
460
00:30:33,640 --> 00:30:35,600
the next part of my journey
would take me
461
00:30:35,600 --> 00:30:38,680
to one of the most important
pilgrimage routes through Europe.
462
00:30:39,720 --> 00:30:42,120
The route between Britain
and the holy city of Rome
463
00:30:42,120 --> 00:30:44,440
was first mapped
in the 10th century.
464
00:30:44,440 --> 00:30:47,640
Pilgrims following it had to cross
one of Europe's biggest obstacles...
465
00:30:48,960 --> 00:30:50,160
..the Alps.
466
00:31:00,760 --> 00:31:03,760
I've come to an area where
a 12th century abbot
467
00:31:03,760 --> 00:31:08,800
travelling from Iceland to Rome
tells us the different
468
00:31:08,800 --> 00:31:13,880
pilgrimage routes from Northern
Europe to Italy all converged.
469
00:31:13,880 --> 00:31:19,120
They would have been Scandinavians,
English, Franks, French, Flemish,
470
00:31:19,120 --> 00:31:21,480
all coming through this area.
471
00:31:24,320 --> 00:31:27,120
Look at this,
there's snow just on the road here.
472
00:31:27,120 --> 00:31:29,680
Almost like a chunk of it
has fallen off.
473
00:31:30,800 --> 00:31:32,320
Can still just get past,
474
00:31:32,320 --> 00:31:35,000
but I know I won't be able to
go for much further.
475
00:31:36,160 --> 00:31:38,280
And then it's going to be
time to walk.
476
00:31:39,880 --> 00:31:42,880
Most modern travellers now use
a boring tunnel under
477
00:31:42,880 --> 00:31:46,360
the mountain, but for thousands
of years, pilgrims, merchants
478
00:31:46,360 --> 00:31:49,800
and armies all crossed the Alps
at the Great St Bernard Pass.
479
00:31:52,080 --> 00:31:53,840
This must be as far as I can go.
480
00:31:56,600 --> 00:31:57,880
Oh, stop the car.
481
00:32:00,240 --> 00:32:02,920
The pass is 8,000 feet
above sea level
482
00:32:02,920 --> 00:32:06,640
and conditions for crossing it
are notoriously unpredictable.
483
00:32:10,200 --> 00:32:12,960
There are numerous accounts
of pilgrims crossing the Alps
484
00:32:12,960 --> 00:32:16,320
who lost their companions
to avalanches or exposure.
485
00:32:16,320 --> 00:32:18,800
The snow here can be 10 metres
deep in winter
486
00:32:18,800 --> 00:32:22,520
and the temperature drops
to minus 30 centigrade.
487
00:32:22,520 --> 00:32:25,560
In the 10th century,
even an Archbishop of Canterbury
488
00:32:25,560 --> 00:32:28,640
froze to death here
while making a pilgrimage to Rome.
489
00:32:30,320 --> 00:32:34,960
Even in summer time, as it is now,
when the sky is blue,
490
00:32:34,960 --> 00:32:36,960
it's still snowy up here.
491
00:32:36,960 --> 00:32:39,880
Imagine the conditions in winter.
492
00:32:39,880 --> 00:32:41,760
People still crossed then.
493
00:32:47,560 --> 00:32:50,960
To provide shelter and safety
for pilgrims and travellers,
494
00:32:50,960 --> 00:32:54,720
an 11th century monk founded
a hostel at the top of the pass.
495
00:32:54,720 --> 00:32:58,080
He was St Bernard,
the apostle of the Alps.
496
00:33:00,240 --> 00:33:03,080
Look, there he is.
Just round there. At the top.
497
00:33:03,080 --> 00:33:04,600
Come round the bend.
498
00:33:04,600 --> 00:33:08,440
It's a hostel, a refuge,
a monastery,
499
00:33:08,440 --> 00:33:10,520
and a very welcome sight!
500
00:33:15,360 --> 00:33:19,320
A medieval manuscript describes this
place as one of the three columns
501
00:33:19,320 --> 00:33:22,040
built by God for the support
of his poor people.
502
00:33:24,480 --> 00:33:28,200
Today, the hostel is run by three
canons and two sisters from the
503
00:33:28,200 --> 00:33:32,440
Augustine order, who provide food
and shelter for passing pilgrims.
504
00:33:32,440 --> 00:33:35,720
Oh, it's lovely. Look at this!
505
00:33:37,240 --> 00:33:38,840
What a lovely mountain room.
506
00:33:38,840 --> 00:33:41,600
Brother Raphael showed me
to my room for the night.
507
00:33:41,600 --> 00:33:43,160
Oh, yes.
508
00:33:43,160 --> 00:33:48,160
If you want to see where
are the toilets and the douche...
509
00:33:48,160 --> 00:33:50,200
I'm sure I'll find them.
510
00:33:50,200 --> 00:33:55,400
If you want anything, you ring
the bell and somebody will answer.
511
00:33:55,400 --> 00:33:58,880
Assist.
Thank you very much indeed, sir.
512
00:33:58,880 --> 00:34:02,480
I pray...
I wish you a good stay here.
513
00:34:02,480 --> 00:34:03,920
That's lovely of you.
514
00:34:05,120 --> 00:34:07,560
BELL RINGS
515
00:34:11,800 --> 00:34:13,160
To look after visitors,
516
00:34:13,160 --> 00:34:16,160
the canons have a small team
working behind the scenes.
517
00:34:16,160 --> 00:34:17,680
I offered to help out.
518
00:34:20,000 --> 00:34:23,240
That's the first time I've ever
served soup to anyone.
519
00:34:25,560 --> 00:34:26,880
Back in here? Yeah.
520
00:34:28,200 --> 00:34:30,840
Pascal has worked here
for the last three years.
521
00:34:33,040 --> 00:34:38,400
Does it feel like you're continuing
the spirit of St Bernard?
522
00:34:38,400 --> 00:34:39,560
Yes, yes.
523
00:34:40,560 --> 00:34:43,560
For sure, it's really touristic here,
but sometimes,
524
00:34:43,560 --> 00:34:47,920
and especially in summer, we have
people come here with nothing.
525
00:34:47,920 --> 00:34:53,600
I remember last year, a guy who came
here with nothing, and we...
526
00:34:53,600 --> 00:34:56,600
he didn't pay anything,
and we gave clothes.
527
00:34:56,600 --> 00:35:00,680
Everything. It's not a problem.
We really welcome everybody.
528
00:35:00,680 --> 00:35:03,960
This is a very special...
a special place to work, isn't it?
529
00:35:03,960 --> 00:35:06,840
Which you get pilgrims
coming to as well.
530
00:35:06,840 --> 00:35:11,000
Yes, we get pilgrims.
Over and...more and more every year.
531
00:35:11,000 --> 00:35:12,720
More and more are coming. Yes. Yes.
532
00:35:12,720 --> 00:35:15,040
They always say it's for
spirituality, you know?
533
00:35:15,040 --> 00:35:18,040
Just to walk and...
534
00:35:18,040 --> 00:35:20,640
just don't think about my job,
535
00:35:20,640 --> 00:35:22,880
don't think about my life.
536
00:35:22,880 --> 00:35:26,920
Just to do other things,
and don't think about anything.
537
00:35:26,920 --> 00:35:29,200
Get on the road. Yes, exactly.
538
00:35:32,000 --> 00:35:33,840
You haven't eaten enough!
539
00:35:33,840 --> 00:35:36,000
It was good! I was full!
540
00:35:36,000 --> 00:35:37,720
You were full. OK!
541
00:35:39,640 --> 00:35:41,120
Thank you!
542
00:35:41,120 --> 00:35:43,560
My aim is just not to
break a plate.
543
00:35:53,720 --> 00:35:56,640
This ancient Christian refuge
hasn't closed its doors
544
00:35:56,640 --> 00:35:58,600
for a thousand years.
545
00:35:58,600 --> 00:36:02,200
It's open to everyone, no matter
what their religion or philosophy.
546
00:36:03,960 --> 00:36:06,960
To stretch out the muscles after
the long climb up the mountain,
547
00:36:06,960 --> 00:36:10,200
I joined other visitors at
a yoga and meditation class.
548
00:36:10,200 --> 00:36:13,600
Just check in with your body.
What's your body doing?
549
00:36:14,720 --> 00:36:17,960
How does it feel in your legs?
How do your shoulders feel?
550
00:36:19,200 --> 00:36:22,040
These design students
from the University of Utah
551
00:36:22,040 --> 00:36:24,920
are on a European pilgrimage
visiting holy sites
552
00:36:24,920 --> 00:36:27,200
and places that inspired
works of literature.
553
00:36:31,440 --> 00:36:33,160
How was the yoga for you?
554
00:36:33,160 --> 00:36:36,240
Oh, I loved it. I cried a little,
to tell you the truth.
555
00:36:36,240 --> 00:36:38,600
Did you? Yes, I was being a baby.
556
00:36:39,600 --> 00:36:44,200
For 19-year-old Ricky, it's
his first experience of pilgrimage.
557
00:36:44,200 --> 00:36:48,080
I actually...I love walking, hiking.
I've been athletic my whole life.
558
00:36:48,080 --> 00:36:51,320
Sports,
and so I decided I have to do it.
559
00:36:51,320 --> 00:36:55,040
Was it the history, the promise of
special experiences
560
00:36:55,040 --> 00:36:56,400
that drew you in?
561
00:36:56,400 --> 00:36:58,480
I kind of...spiritually,
I wanted to do it.
562
00:36:58,480 --> 00:37:00,280
I've got to get some
meaning in my life.
563
00:37:00,280 --> 00:37:02,640
Is that what this is going to help
you with, do you think?
564
00:37:02,640 --> 00:37:05,040
I hope so. I believe.
565
00:37:09,120 --> 00:37:11,680
The majority of the students
are Mormons.
566
00:37:11,680 --> 00:37:13,880
They were being put to work
around the hostel,
567
00:37:13,880 --> 00:37:15,880
apparently so they could
learn about the life
568
00:37:15,880 --> 00:37:18,680
of St Bernard and
the value of service.
569
00:37:20,640 --> 00:37:22,200
Oh, my goodness.
570
00:37:26,440 --> 00:37:28,560
What are you doing?
571
00:37:29,880 --> 00:37:32,600
Hard to reach spaces, I guess.
572
00:37:33,640 --> 00:37:35,560
You be careful!
573
00:37:35,560 --> 00:37:36,640
Oh, I'm good.
574
00:37:37,840 --> 00:37:43,560
Avec de l'eau. Ah, OK, oui.
C'est tout. OK? OK. Je comprends.
575
00:37:43,560 --> 00:37:47,040
Simon, one for you.
Oh, you are so kind!
576
00:37:49,000 --> 00:37:52,720
Do you think there is a deeper
meaning to doing things like this,
577
00:37:52,720 --> 00:37:55,680
or is it just learning to do things
578
00:37:55,680 --> 00:37:57,480
you don't necessarily want to do?
579
00:37:57,480 --> 00:38:02,120
In a way, we get to see
the monks' perspective of service.
580
00:38:02,120 --> 00:38:05,480
Maintaining the cleanliness
of the church
581
00:38:05,480 --> 00:38:07,320
is a service for the monks.
582
00:38:07,320 --> 00:38:10,720
We are repaying them
for what they do for the pilgrims.
583
00:38:10,720 --> 00:38:13,200
It's kind of like what
goes around comes around.
584
00:38:13,200 --> 00:38:15,160
Good karma and all that, right?
585
00:38:15,160 --> 00:38:17,480
Good karma? Yeah.
586
00:38:20,600 --> 00:38:22,760
Yoga, karma, Mormons.
587
00:38:22,760 --> 00:38:26,440
I was surprised by this very modern
mixing of cultures and religions.
588
00:38:26,440 --> 00:38:28,720
In the hostel museum
I talked to Alex,
589
00:38:28,720 --> 00:38:31,080
one of the leaders of the group.
590
00:38:31,080 --> 00:38:35,320
We come from a highly concentrated
Mormon background,
591
00:38:35,320 --> 00:38:36,960
where it's a bubble.
592
00:38:36,960 --> 00:38:39,440
I mean, it's a different world.
593
00:38:39,440 --> 00:38:41,880
All of us are culture shocked
when we go out into the world
594
00:38:41,880 --> 00:38:43,920
and see that not everybody is Mormon
595
00:38:43,920 --> 00:38:46,320
and everybody does the same
things we do.
596
00:38:46,320 --> 00:38:48,080
So to come to Switzerland?
597
00:38:48,080 --> 00:38:50,760
To come to Switzerland
is a big eye-opener,
598
00:38:50,760 --> 00:38:53,120
because we're involved
with a lot of things,
599
00:38:53,120 --> 00:38:54,840
like we went to Mass yesterday.
600
00:38:54,840 --> 00:38:58,600
98% of the students that we have
have never been to a Catholic Mass,
601
00:38:58,600 --> 00:39:01,480
and so it's easy just to
write that off as,
602
00:39:01,480 --> 00:39:04,760
"Oh, this is foreign to me
and so this is useless,"
603
00:39:04,760 --> 00:39:07,760
but what we're trying to do is
show the students that, no,
604
00:39:07,760 --> 00:39:10,200
this has the same amount of value
to the people here
605
00:39:10,200 --> 00:39:12,600
as what we do back home.
606
00:39:12,600 --> 00:39:15,680
Do you feel like this is
a part of a pilgrimage?
607
00:39:15,680 --> 00:39:17,880
Yes, I do. I think... I don't know.
608
00:39:17,880 --> 00:39:22,480
I define pilgrimage simply
as a journey that an individual
609
00:39:22,480 --> 00:39:25,520
just feels like
he or she needs to take.
610
00:39:25,520 --> 00:39:28,840
A pilgrimage is not
so much an escape in my opinion,
611
00:39:28,840 --> 00:39:30,120
at least not for me.
612
00:39:30,120 --> 00:39:34,120
A pilgrimage is a time for you
to try to find a reality
613
00:39:34,120 --> 00:39:35,520
to the human condition
614
00:39:35,520 --> 00:39:38,800
that you may not have tapped
into before in your life.
615
00:39:38,800 --> 00:39:40,240
That's good.
616
00:39:43,000 --> 00:39:45,520
It was time for me to head south
617
00:39:45,520 --> 00:39:48,320
to the centre of Catholic Europe,
Italy.
618
00:39:58,680 --> 00:40:02,320
I'm really zipping around on this
journey. France, Spain, Switzerland.
619
00:40:02,320 --> 00:40:05,320
I'm now driving through Italy,
across Italy in fact,
620
00:40:05,320 --> 00:40:08,320
to a town on the eastern
side of the country,
621
00:40:08,320 --> 00:40:11,720
which has seen a massive boom
in the number of people and visitors
622
00:40:11,720 --> 00:40:14,320
and pilgrims who have been heading
there in recent years.
623
00:40:17,760 --> 00:40:21,400
San Giovanni Rotondo was once
a small sheep farming town.
624
00:40:21,400 --> 00:40:24,360
It's now a booming pilgrimage
destination.
625
00:40:28,880 --> 00:40:33,080
The pilgrims are here because of
Padre Pio, an Italian friar
626
00:40:33,080 --> 00:40:35,560
who became famous
for his miraculous powers
627
00:40:35,560 --> 00:40:37,240
and Christ-like suffering.
628
00:40:38,360 --> 00:40:41,480
Padre Pio died in 1968.
629
00:40:41,480 --> 00:40:46,160
San Giovanni reportedly now gets
more than two million visitors
every year.
630
00:40:49,080 --> 00:40:53,600
This is a pilgrimage site unlike
anything we've seen
631
00:40:53,600 --> 00:40:56,200
anywhere on this journey so far.
632
00:40:56,200 --> 00:40:58,360
Very modern.
633
00:40:58,360 --> 00:41:01,400
Ludicrously so, to a certain degree.
634
00:41:01,400 --> 00:41:05,240
Personally I go for old
and old-fashioned,
635
00:41:05,240 --> 00:41:07,560
but this is...
636
00:41:07,560 --> 00:41:10,000
This is very 20th and 21st century.
637
00:41:18,960 --> 00:41:24,120
This cathedral opened in 2004
and can hold up to 8,000 pilgrims,
638
00:41:24,120 --> 00:41:27,960
reflecting the mass appeal of what
many see as the cult of Padre Pio.
639
00:41:29,560 --> 00:41:31,880
It's a mega-church, eh?
640
00:41:31,880 --> 00:41:34,000
Proof of the old adage,
641
00:41:34,000 --> 00:41:36,960
perhaps, if you build it,
they will come.
642
00:41:42,920 --> 00:41:46,440
Followers of Padre Pio believed
he had the ability to read souls
643
00:41:46,440 --> 00:41:49,440
and appear in two places at once.
644
00:41:49,440 --> 00:41:52,440
It's claimed he could
miraculously cure people,
645
00:41:52,440 --> 00:41:53,720
help the blind to see,
646
00:41:53,720 --> 00:41:56,800
and even rose into the sky
to protect this town
647
00:41:56,800 --> 00:41:59,440
from American bombers
during the Second World War.
648
00:42:01,680 --> 00:42:05,320
Beneath the cathedral,
a 75-metre corridor is adorned
649
00:42:05,320 --> 00:42:07,360
from floor to ceiling
650
00:42:07,360 --> 00:42:09,680
with Padre Pio mosaics
that promote his legend.
651
00:42:10,760 --> 00:42:14,400
The gold has come from tonnes
of jewellery donated by devoted
pilgrims.
652
00:42:18,080 --> 00:42:22,360
It's almost overwhelming to see
all this imagery of him.
653
00:42:22,360 --> 00:42:23,840
Goodness me.
654
00:42:23,840 --> 00:42:27,560
This is "Padre Pio answers
the mail" on this side.
655
00:42:31,520 --> 00:42:34,000
Padre Pio, Padre Pio, Padre Pio,
656
00:42:34,000 --> 00:42:36,960
doing everything, being everywhere.
657
00:42:38,400 --> 00:42:39,640
Quite bizarre.
658
00:42:42,720 --> 00:42:47,560
I suppose one of the main things
that's made Padre Pio so popular...
659
00:42:47,560 --> 00:42:50,240
He had the stigmata.
660
00:42:50,240 --> 00:42:54,560
A stigmata is when a person appears
to develop identical wounds
661
00:42:54,560 --> 00:42:58,040
to those of Christ on the cross
suffering crucifixion,
662
00:42:58,040 --> 00:43:01,600
so blood seeping from hands,
663
00:43:01,600 --> 00:43:03,480
just the same as those of Christ.
664
00:43:06,720 --> 00:43:09,920
The imagery here is
completely mind-blowing.
665
00:43:11,840 --> 00:43:15,560
It looks very much like an attempt
to turn Padre Pio
666
00:43:15,560 --> 00:43:17,640
into not just a saint
667
00:43:17,640 --> 00:43:21,880
but somebody worthy of
almost divine veneration,
668
00:43:21,880 --> 00:43:24,280
somebody akin to Jesus.
669
00:43:25,640 --> 00:43:29,320
This is unlike any other
veneration of a Christian saint
670
00:43:29,320 --> 00:43:32,040
I'm aware of anywhere in the world.
671
00:43:32,040 --> 00:43:34,400
It's more extreme, more intense,
672
00:43:34,400 --> 00:43:36,520
and frankly more over the top.
673
00:43:39,000 --> 00:43:40,720
An Italian historian has claimed
674
00:43:40,720 --> 00:43:45,040
Padre Pio kept his stigmata
wounds open by using carbolic acid.
675
00:43:45,040 --> 00:43:48,080
The Vatican was
suspicious of Padre Pio.
676
00:43:48,080 --> 00:43:50,760
Two popes had him investigated
and twice banned him
677
00:43:50,760 --> 00:43:53,200
from performing priestly duties.
678
00:43:53,200 --> 00:43:57,080
But after he died they couldn't
control his popular appeal,
679
00:43:57,080 --> 00:44:01,720
and in 2002 he was given the
highest honour possible bestowed
by the Catholic Church...
680
00:44:01,720 --> 00:44:03,080
a sainthood.
681
00:44:06,160 --> 00:44:09,320
His body is now kept on display
in a purpose-built crypt.
682
00:44:18,240 --> 00:44:21,680
Rarely in the history of
Christianity has the cult of a saint
683
00:44:21,680 --> 00:44:23,920
expanded so rapidly
and so powerfully
684
00:44:23,920 --> 00:44:26,880
as it has around Padre Pio.
685
00:44:26,880 --> 00:44:28,960
After the Vatican,
686
00:44:28,960 --> 00:44:32,800
this is claimed to be the second
largest pilgrimage site in Europe.
687
00:44:55,120 --> 00:44:59,640
Well, that was unlike any Christian
church or building, shrine
688
00:44:59,640 --> 00:45:02,400
or sanctuary I've been to
anywhere in the world.
689
00:45:03,840 --> 00:45:07,200
It's extraordinary how important
Padre Pio's become.
690
00:45:07,200 --> 00:45:12,000
He went from being a fairly
small-town friar
691
00:45:12,000 --> 00:45:17,120
to a figure of national importance
and then global significance.
692
00:45:27,000 --> 00:45:30,520
The adoration of saintly figures
isn't unusual, of course,
693
00:45:30,520 --> 00:45:32,240
but here it's big business.
694
00:45:38,520 --> 00:45:40,480
To help spread the word further,
695
00:45:40,480 --> 00:45:43,640
there's a global media operation
which bears his name.
696
00:45:50,920 --> 00:45:52,720
Wow.
697
00:45:52,720 --> 00:45:57,000
Padre Pio TV station transmits
live from the cathedral
698
00:45:57,000 --> 00:45:59,880
five times a day, every day.
699
00:45:59,880 --> 00:46:02,240
This is what you call a feed,
isn't it? This is your...
700
00:46:02,240 --> 00:46:05,080
Yes. This is the Mass.
This is the Mass. Yes.
701
00:46:05,080 --> 00:46:08,200
And where is...? Live.
Live, OK. OK?
702
00:46:08,200 --> 00:46:11,280
The channel's watched around
the world, including across Asia
703
00:46:11,280 --> 00:46:13,560
and North and South America.
704
00:46:13,560 --> 00:46:16,120
Stefania is a producer
at the station.
705
00:46:16,120 --> 00:46:18,920
Do you have any viewing
figures for how many people
706
00:46:18,920 --> 00:46:21,400
will be seeing the Mass
at the moment?
707
00:46:21,400 --> 00:46:25,720
We have an average of 300,000
people every day.
708
00:46:25,720 --> 00:46:28,400
300,000? Yes. Yes.
709
00:46:28,400 --> 00:46:30,440
And that's around the planet?
Yes.
710
00:46:30,440 --> 00:46:32,840
The TV station is run by monks.
711
00:46:32,840 --> 00:46:35,800
The president is
Padre Mariano Devito.
712
00:46:35,800 --> 00:46:39,760
Is it a little bit unusual
for an order of monks
713
00:46:39,760 --> 00:46:42,200
to be involved in television?
714
00:46:42,200 --> 00:46:44,560
Or is it just the 21st century?
715
00:47:09,800 --> 00:47:14,120
There is almost
an industry around Padre Pio.
716
00:47:33,600 --> 00:47:36,680
Coach-loads of visitors
arrive here daily.
717
00:47:36,680 --> 00:47:40,240
In this poor region of Italy,
the town and its 30,000 residents
718
00:47:40,240 --> 00:47:43,840
earn more than £100 million
a year from visiting pilgrims.
719
00:47:47,120 --> 00:47:50,720
It's fascinating how the economy
of a place like this can become
720
00:47:50,720 --> 00:47:54,400
dependent on, but can exist in the
first place, because of pilgrimage.
721
00:47:54,400 --> 00:47:58,400
I've seen it elsewhere on my
journey, but never quite so starkly.
722
00:47:58,400 --> 00:48:02,880
We've got a hotel here just on
this street, hotel here,
723
00:48:02,880 --> 00:48:06,600
hotel, hotel, restaurant, cafe,
restaurant, cafe.
724
00:48:07,920 --> 00:48:09,720
All the way down this street
725
00:48:09,720 --> 00:48:15,520
there are now scores of
hotels in this town, which, frankly,
726
00:48:15,520 --> 00:48:18,720
if the cult of Padre Pio
wasn't here,
727
00:48:18,720 --> 00:48:21,800
would probably deserve just
a couple of little guest houses.
728
00:48:23,680 --> 00:48:27,200
The town actually has more
than 120 hotels serving
729
00:48:27,200 --> 00:48:29,320
the 21st-century pilgrim industry.
730
00:48:30,720 --> 00:48:33,520
I went to one to meet the owner,
Franco, who's lived
731
00:48:33,520 --> 00:48:37,080
all his life in San Giovanni
and has seen the town transformed.
732
00:48:38,200 --> 00:48:40,760
Have your family always been
hoteliers?
733
00:49:02,680 --> 00:49:09,000
Do you find it slightly astonishing
that you have opened a hotel,
734
00:49:09,000 --> 00:49:10,800
you've had great success,
735
00:49:10,800 --> 00:49:14,440
and now the story of Padre Pio's
spread so far?
736
00:49:40,120 --> 00:49:42,520
'Franco employs over 100 staff,
737
00:49:42,520 --> 00:49:45,400
'serving an increasing
number of guests.'
738
00:49:45,400 --> 00:49:49,680
You seem to have an Olympic-size
swimming pool out here!
739
00:49:49,680 --> 00:49:53,280
'Modern pilgrims who come here,
even for just a weekend,
740
00:49:53,280 --> 00:49:56,080
'often expect a certain
level of luxury.'
741
00:49:56,080 --> 00:49:57,640
There is this line, isn't there?
742
00:49:57,640 --> 00:50:00,680
This sort of divide where people
are called pilgrims or they're
743
00:50:00,680 --> 00:50:04,880
called tourists, but maybe
the two are becoming one now,
744
00:50:04,880 --> 00:50:06,680
and certainly in a place like this.
745
00:50:31,800 --> 00:50:33,520
Thank you.
746
00:50:33,520 --> 00:50:36,480
Prego. Grazie a voi. Thank you!
747
00:50:46,680 --> 00:50:49,240
I think what this town represents
748
00:50:49,240 --> 00:50:52,720
is the globalisation of pilgrimage.
749
00:50:52,720 --> 00:50:56,280
I think I'd have expected
that in the 21st century,
750
00:50:56,280 --> 00:50:59,840
people would have been turning away
from religious belief
751
00:50:59,840 --> 00:51:02,880
and pilgrimage to places like this,
but quite the opposite.
752
00:51:02,880 --> 00:51:05,440
They've now got people
coming from around the world here,
753
00:51:05,440 --> 00:51:08,440
and as long as
they continue to come,
754
00:51:08,440 --> 00:51:11,400
the locals here are going to keep
raking in the money.
755
00:51:14,320 --> 00:51:16,920
Pilgrimage trips were the forerunner
of the modern holiday.
756
00:51:16,920 --> 00:51:20,360
Even the word is ultimately
derived from "Holy Day."
757
00:51:20,360 --> 00:51:24,080
European pilgrimage had been
in decline, but in recent decades,
758
00:51:24,080 --> 00:51:27,800
as we've become wealthier with
more spare time, it's booming.
759
00:51:27,800 --> 00:51:30,640
We're softies compared to
hardy medieval pilgrims,
760
00:51:30,640 --> 00:51:32,120
but we still have belief.
761
00:51:32,120 --> 00:51:34,640
Now many want to combine holiday
and Holy Day -
762
00:51:34,640 --> 00:51:36,840
a pilgrimage,
but with a swimming pool.
763
00:51:43,560 --> 00:51:47,400
An ancient pilgrimage route took me
towards my final destination.
764
00:51:50,120 --> 00:51:52,840
Travellers from Britain
and Northern Europe walked this way
765
00:51:52,840 --> 00:51:56,880
for centuries to get their first
glimpse of the eternal city.
766
00:51:58,680 --> 00:52:01,400
HE LAUGHS
Flipping 'eck!
767
00:52:03,800 --> 00:52:05,120
Look at that!
768
00:52:07,480 --> 00:52:08,680
Rome!
769
00:52:11,360 --> 00:52:15,520
This would have been the
first chance that hundreds
770
00:52:15,520 --> 00:52:19,480
of thousands of pilgrims would have
had to see this extraordinary
771
00:52:19,480 --> 00:52:23,440
city coming over the hill,
and there it is in front of you.
772
00:52:24,600 --> 00:52:26,160
Vatican down there.
773
00:52:27,720 --> 00:52:32,600
Imagine coming here and really
believing in your very core
774
00:52:32,600 --> 00:52:35,680
that your soul would benefit
from this journey,
775
00:52:35,680 --> 00:52:38,080
from arriving here.
776
00:52:38,080 --> 00:52:41,080
You think what's wrapped up in that.
777
00:52:41,080 --> 00:52:45,680
The history, the culture,
the power, the civilisation,
778
00:52:45,680 --> 00:52:46,720
the religion.
779
00:52:49,280 --> 00:52:53,840
Not just generations of it,
but century after century.
780
00:52:53,840 --> 00:52:58,400
It's been one of the
planet's great destinations.
781
00:53:05,720 --> 00:53:07,320
And still today,
782
00:53:07,320 --> 00:53:11,040
Rome pulls in the crowds like
no other pilgrimage site in Europe.
783
00:53:17,920 --> 00:53:20,560
People come to Rome now
in their millions for all sorts of
784
00:53:20,560 --> 00:53:24,960
reasons, but what really drew people
in the past, pilgrims particularly,
785
00:53:24,960 --> 00:53:28,520
was the incredible collection
of relics that were housed here.
786
00:53:28,520 --> 00:53:32,720
For hundreds of years, Rome had
the finest collection of relics
787
00:53:32,720 --> 00:53:35,440
in the world, including
the Ark Of The Covenant,
788
00:53:35,440 --> 00:53:38,640
the tablets of Moses
and even, apparently,
789
00:53:38,640 --> 00:53:40,680
Jesus' foreskin
and his umbilical cord.
790
00:53:44,280 --> 00:53:46,480
It would have taken
Medieval pilgrims months
791
00:53:46,480 --> 00:53:48,160
to walk here from Britain.
792
00:53:48,160 --> 00:53:51,360
They would have been exhausted,
but the city that awaited them
793
00:53:51,360 --> 00:53:52,560
had its disappointments.
794
00:53:54,400 --> 00:53:56,760
Many of the buildings were in ruins.
795
00:53:56,760 --> 00:54:01,800
Some of them were being quarried
and mined for building material.
796
00:54:01,800 --> 00:54:05,080
It would have been a huge shock
to pilgrims arriving here.
797
00:54:05,080 --> 00:54:07,840
They'd heard tales of
this grand city,
798
00:54:07,840 --> 00:54:11,080
but the glory days of the
Roman Empire were long past.
799
00:54:35,000 --> 00:54:37,480
The Tiber in those days as well
800
00:54:37,480 --> 00:54:41,680
wasn't the pleasant,
flowing river that it is today.
801
00:54:41,680 --> 00:54:44,880
In fact, it was a bit of
a mosquito-infested swamp.
802
00:54:46,600 --> 00:54:49,400
That was another great threat
to pilgrims and travellers
803
00:54:49,400 --> 00:54:52,840
because, of course, mosquitoes
often carry disease
804
00:54:52,840 --> 00:54:59,240
and Italy wasn't declared
malaria-free until 1970.
805
00:54:59,240 --> 00:55:03,080
Pilgrims who came here contracted
it, and speaking of somebody who
806
00:55:03,080 --> 00:55:07,200
also managed to get it,
although in Africa, I can assure you
807
00:55:07,200 --> 00:55:10,440
it's about the most unpleasant
thing you can go through in life.
808
00:55:21,320 --> 00:55:24,320
Despite all the threats
and the challenges that faced them
809
00:55:24,320 --> 00:55:26,920
on their long journey,
and even when they got to Rome,
810
00:55:26,920 --> 00:55:30,160
pilgrims kept coming, and they came
for one thing in particular.
811
00:55:35,200 --> 00:55:38,760
St Peter's and the Vatican is where
the apostle Peter was martyred,
812
00:55:38,760 --> 00:55:40,280
crucified upside down.
813
00:55:41,880 --> 00:55:43,520
This is the perfect time to be here.
814
00:55:43,520 --> 00:55:46,920
It's 10:45 on a Sunday morning,
815
00:55:46,920 --> 00:55:48,440
and people are gathering.
816
00:55:49,800 --> 00:55:52,240
I've come to St Peter's Square
at a time when
817
00:55:52,240 --> 00:55:56,000
pilgrims arrive in their thousands
to be blessed by the Pope.
818
00:55:57,880 --> 00:56:00,720
People have come here
from all over the world.
819
00:56:00,720 --> 00:56:03,200
I can see the flags of Brazil,
820
00:56:03,200 --> 00:56:06,920
India over there, Poland, Argentina.
821
00:56:06,920 --> 00:56:10,120
They're here for the Pope,
they're here for the Vatican,
822
00:56:10,120 --> 00:56:11,960
and Rome, of course, is still
823
00:56:11,960 --> 00:56:14,840
the biggest pilgrimage
destination in Europe.
824
00:56:17,360 --> 00:56:19,080
Travelling across the Continent,
825
00:56:19,080 --> 00:56:22,840
I'd seen the powerful effects
holy places had on pilgrims,
826
00:56:22,840 --> 00:56:25,200
but this was a much jollier
gathering.
827
00:56:25,200 --> 00:56:28,040
We weren't seeing yet another
bit of bone belonging to a saint
828
00:56:28,040 --> 00:56:30,320
who lived hundreds of years ago.
829
00:56:30,320 --> 00:56:31,760
For Catholics in the Square,
830
00:56:31,760 --> 00:56:35,640
the living father of their church
was about to appear.
831
00:56:35,640 --> 00:56:37,600
Look at the tiny little
figure up there!
832
00:56:37,600 --> 00:56:39,240
CROWD CHEERS AND APPLAUDS
833
00:56:39,240 --> 00:56:41,560
It is astonishing how many
people are here,
834
00:56:41,560 --> 00:56:45,400
but this is an audience -
not a very private audience -
835
00:56:45,400 --> 00:56:49,280
but one nonetheless,
with a man who's close to God,
836
00:56:49,280 --> 00:56:52,040
but somebody who is
a very big celebrity as well.
837
00:56:55,640 --> 00:56:58,240
CHEERING
838
00:57:13,920 --> 00:57:15,360
CHEERING
839
00:57:15,360 --> 00:57:17,880
This was the end of a journey
that had taught me much
840
00:57:17,880 --> 00:57:21,040
about the history and beliefs
of the Continent.
841
00:57:21,040 --> 00:57:23,800
I really feel I've come
to understand how pilgrimage
842
00:57:23,800 --> 00:57:28,920
has helped to define routes and
towns and cities across Europe
843
00:57:28,920 --> 00:57:31,480
and how it continues
to define them today.
844
00:57:35,320 --> 00:57:38,720
I'd learned that European pilgrimage
has always been a challenge,
845
00:57:38,720 --> 00:57:41,560
but a great opportunity
for adventure.
846
00:57:41,560 --> 00:57:44,000
And clearly, for those
who follow a pilgrim's path,
847
00:57:44,000 --> 00:57:46,480
it's about what they
discover on the way,
848
00:57:46,480 --> 00:57:50,400
and about themselves, and not just
about racing for the journey's end.
849
00:58:01,200 --> 00:58:03,720
CHEERING
850
00:58:08,280 --> 00:58:10,800
'Next time, on the final leg
of my travels,
851
00:58:10,800 --> 00:58:12,680
'I go from Turkey to
the Holy Land...'
852
00:58:13,680 --> 00:58:15,600
I can't quite believe it.
853
00:58:15,600 --> 00:58:18,880
The Church of the Nativity!
I'm in Bethlehem.
854
00:58:18,880 --> 00:58:22,520
'..and finish my journey
in the city of Jerusalem.'
855
00:58:24,040 --> 00:58:26,600
It's...utterly overwhelming.
856
00:58:50,920 --> 00:58:54,320
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