1 00:00:45,527 --> 00:00:49,406 We've come out of the Andes and are following the Urubamba River 2 00:00:49,567 --> 00:00:53,606 into the hot and humid rainforest of the Amazon Basin. 3 00:00:56,967 --> 00:00:59,606 There is no other way through the forest 4 00:00:59,767 --> 00:01:03,282 and we have nearly a week of river travel ahead of us. 5 00:01:05,287 --> 00:01:09,724 0ur guide, Barry Walker, can barely take the binoculars from his eyes. 6 00:01:09,887 --> 00:01:16,725 If you're a bird-spotter like Barry, then Peru, with 2,000 species, is a land of opportunity. 7 00:01:20,407 --> 00:01:26,323 The forest is attracting attention for more than its natural beauty, as I'm soon to find out. 8 00:01:26,487 --> 00:01:31,003 Here we are in the Camisea River, Michael. 9 00:01:31,167 --> 00:01:39,757 See over here. Here's one of the old oil exploration centres. Abandoned now, of course. 10 00:01:39,927 --> 00:01:44,239 First piece of modern equipment I've seen on this stretch for a long while. 11 00:01:44,407 --> 00:01:48,400 - Looks like a painted palm tree. - Badly painted palm tree. 12 00:01:48,567 --> 00:01:50,603 What is the significance of that? 13 00:01:50,767 --> 00:01:52,803 Was the drilling abandoned here? 14 00:01:52,967 --> 00:01:57,404 They've done the exploration. They've got some capped wells in here. 15 00:01:57,567 --> 00:02:02,083 For the last few years, everything's been abandoned around here, 16 00:02:02,247 --> 00:02:08,482 but very soon the crews are gonna come in and start getting the gas out. 17 00:02:08,647 --> 00:02:13,596 Has the exploration damaged the environment much yet, or will that happen later? 18 00:02:13,767 --> 00:02:17,806 We'll find out round the corner. There's a settlement we'll call in at. 19 00:02:17,967 --> 00:02:22,324 It will give us an idea of how much influence the exploration people have had. 20 00:02:22,487 --> 00:02:25,604 I'm sure that when they start getting it out, 21 00:02:25,767 --> 00:02:29,396 it remains to be seen whether it'll be negative or not. 22 00:02:32,287 --> 00:02:35,723 We pull in at a Machiguenga Indian village. 23 00:02:37,607 --> 00:02:40,201 There is a definite protocol for visiting. 24 00:02:40,367 --> 00:02:44,485 We must first find the headman and ask his permission. 25 00:02:45,927 --> 00:02:49,476 The village is being swept for the feast of St John the Baptist. 26 00:02:49,647 --> 00:02:53,276 Missionaries must have come through here as well as oil men. 27 00:02:53,447 --> 00:02:58,965 Has he encountered many foreigners like this, coming out of the blue up the river? 28 00:02:59,127 --> 00:03:01,766 No. He's quite surprised to see us. 29 00:03:01,927 --> 00:03:06,205 Initially he thought we were the advance party of the petrol people, 30 00:03:06,367 --> 00:03:10,076 who donated, when they left, these sheets of corrugated iron. 31 00:03:10,247 --> 00:03:14,604 We were saying that it's much better using that than thatching. 32 00:03:14,767 --> 00:03:19,761 You see the odd thatched building here. It's a lot of work to put it together. 33 00:03:31,007 --> 00:03:33,396 The headman has another role today, 34 00:03:33,567 --> 00:03:37,560 as referee in an inter-village soccer match. 35 00:03:37,727 --> 00:03:41,925 (SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE) 36 00:03:42,087 --> 00:03:47,480 The whole of South America is mad about football and the Amazon jungle is no exception. 37 00:03:47,647 --> 00:03:50,923 The match is one of the feast-day attractions. 38 00:03:52,287 --> 00:03:55,438 Oh! Nice try. 39 00:03:57,687 --> 00:03:59,882 Man with no boots on. 40 00:04:02,007 --> 00:04:07,525 The boots seem rather unevenly distributed, but it makes for some interesting tackles. 41 00:04:15,407 --> 00:04:17,557 In the next match, between the women, 42 00:04:17,727 --> 00:04:22,721 there's not a football boot to be seen and the game's a lot more exciting. 43 00:04:35,407 --> 00:04:40,322 Children here grow up hoping that one day they'll be as good as their mothers. 44 00:04:42,567 --> 00:04:45,127 Half-time refreshment is a bowl of masato, 45 00:04:45,287 --> 00:04:49,838 a festive tipple made from the fermented juice of the yucca plant. 46 00:04:51,327 --> 00:04:54,000 It's a bit like giving Manchester United martinis. 47 00:04:56,167 --> 00:04:58,727 I decide a drugs test is in order. 48 00:04:58,887 --> 00:05:03,324 - How's it made? They ferment it and... - It depends. 49 00:05:03,487 --> 00:05:06,843 - Put other stuff in? - I'm not sure how they make it here. 50 00:05:07,007 --> 00:05:11,444 In many communities the women chew it and spit it into a pot 51 00:05:11,607 --> 00:05:15,395 and the enzymes from their saliva start the fermentation process. 52 00:05:15,567 --> 00:05:19,037 But in more contacted places where they have access to sugar, 53 00:05:19,207 --> 00:05:21,198 they prefer to use sugar. 54 00:05:21,367 --> 00:05:23,961 - Do they have sugar here? - I'm not sure. 55 00:05:25,687 --> 00:05:28,599 Doesn't look like it. 56 00:05:28,767 --> 00:05:31,156 - Cheers. I'm game for anything. - Cheers. 57 00:05:31,327 --> 00:05:34,558 Here you are, Nigel. Looks lovely, doesn't it? 58 00:05:39,607 --> 00:05:44,123 Hint of a dry, slight raspberry-ish taste. 59 00:05:44,287 --> 00:05:47,279 Like a mildly alcoholic raspberry yogurt or something. 60 00:05:47,447 --> 00:05:51,520 That's sort of '96 saliva, that. 61 00:05:52,807 --> 00:05:55,526 At the festive meal, the families gather round, 62 00:05:55,687 --> 00:05:58,884 grace is spoken and they tuck into the day's delicacy, 63 00:05:59,047 --> 00:06:01,561 tapir meat wrapped in banana leaves. 64 00:06:16,687 --> 00:06:22,683 The presence of plastic bowls, containers and T-shirts show the village is modernising. 65 00:06:22,847 --> 00:06:26,078 The old ways are looking increasingly out of place. 66 00:06:32,407 --> 00:06:34,762 It's time for us to leave the party, 67 00:06:34,927 --> 00:06:39,125 get back to the river and find a camp for the night. 68 00:06:46,607 --> 00:06:50,043 The morning dip looks idyllic but could be dangerous. 69 00:06:50,207 --> 00:06:54,041 If you pee in the river, there's a small fish with barbed teeth 70 00:06:54,207 --> 00:06:57,677 which latches onto the urine stream and swims up your penis. 71 00:06:57,847 --> 00:07:00,600 Give me a piranha any day. 72 00:07:07,927 --> 00:07:12,637 The tropical rainforest is one of the richest natural environments in the world. 73 00:07:12,807 --> 00:07:16,641 I find out it doesn't take kindly to intruders. 74 00:07:18,127 --> 00:07:22,643 - Do you want the traditional machete? - No, I think we can get through. 75 00:07:22,807 --> 00:07:25,844 It's just over to where the trail widens out down here. 76 00:07:26,007 --> 00:07:31,240 - Do people still use machetes, or just in movies? - People do when they're cutting trail. 77 00:07:31,407 --> 00:07:37,004 When you're in known territory they're not really necessary, although they might be here. 78 00:07:37,167 --> 00:07:39,362 - Lend it me a second. - Yeah. 79 00:07:43,887 --> 00:07:45,878 Thanks. 80 00:07:51,927 --> 00:07:56,842 Oh! Cor blimey! Nearly knocked myself out. 81 00:07:57,007 --> 00:08:00,556 - Here we go. The trail widens here. - Right. 82 00:08:00,727 --> 00:08:02,718 Barry is a man with a purpose. 83 00:08:02,887 --> 00:08:07,244 He's here to find rare and exotic birds. I think I'm an embarrassment. 84 00:08:07,407 --> 00:08:10,080 - Looks like... - I've been bitten. 85 00:08:10,247 --> 00:08:11,646 By what? 86 00:08:11,807 --> 00:08:19,157 I just rested my hand on a tree and there must be an ant trail. 87 00:08:25,847 --> 00:08:29,840 - A bit more like it. - This is good primary forest here. 88 00:08:30,007 --> 00:08:32,362 This is very good indeed. 89 00:08:32,527 --> 00:08:35,599 - (BIRD CHIRPING) - What's that one you can hear? 90 00:08:35,767 --> 00:08:38,998 That's a plain-winged ant-shrike. 91 00:08:39,167 --> 00:08:43,604 That lives in the sub-canopies. Quite vocal at dawn and dusk. 92 00:08:50,807 --> 00:08:52,923 No white-browed ant-birds. 93 00:08:53,087 --> 00:08:56,397 There's a few other callers, but they're not... 94 00:08:56,567 --> 00:09:01,243 - I think we should try further down the trail. - Don't touch any trees. 95 00:09:03,407 --> 00:09:06,877 (BARRY) Let's see if we can get through here. 96 00:09:07,047 --> 00:09:13,566 The trouble with such a fertile environment is that you can't actually see anything. 97 00:09:14,527 --> 00:09:16,518 The birds have the same problem. 98 00:09:16,687 --> 00:09:21,715 They stay way above us where they can fly around without banging into trees. 99 00:09:34,887 --> 00:09:38,084 After a while, one day becomes much like any other. 100 00:09:38,247 --> 00:09:40,238 The forest seems endless, 101 00:09:40,407 --> 00:09:43,604 the climate it generates hot and uncomfortable. 102 00:10:10,967 --> 00:10:13,959 It's six days before we reach a settlement. 103 00:10:14,127 --> 00:10:16,960 - Is this it? - Sepahua. 104 00:10:17,127 --> 00:10:20,517 Sepahua. Civilisation. 105 00:10:20,687 --> 00:10:23,155 - (BARRY) Lots of boats. - Not sure about it. 106 00:10:23,327 --> 00:10:25,602 I bet you can get beer here. 107 00:10:25,767 --> 00:10:30,204 (MICHAEL) Cold beer, maybe. Not the 90-degree beers we've been drinking. 108 00:10:30,367 --> 00:10:33,245 (BARRY) The biggest place we've seen for a while. 109 00:10:33,407 --> 00:10:38,401 - Hotel, or are we under canvas again? - (BARRY) Under canvas, I think. 110 00:10:43,527 --> 00:10:47,600 Sepahua fits the description by the Amazon explorer Colonel Fawcett 111 00:10:47,767 --> 00:10:53,239 of somewhere that "looks a dump on the way in and a metropolis on the way out." 112 00:11:03,927 --> 00:11:09,206 It's a place of convivial and infectious idleness. 113 00:11:09,367 --> 00:11:13,280 But it does have an airstrip and there are no queues at the terminal. 114 00:11:18,287 --> 00:11:21,802 A Russian-built cargo plane puts down here every now and then 115 00:11:21,967 --> 00:11:25,437 with military and civilian supplies for this jungle outpost. 116 00:11:25,607 --> 00:11:27,996 It could be our way out. 117 00:11:40,927 --> 00:11:45,921 As refuelling begins, we look around for an airline official to talk to. 118 00:11:49,087 --> 00:11:53,922 Barry finds the co-pilot, who bears a passing resemblance to a certain film star. 119 00:11:54,087 --> 00:11:56,476 He seems to have a grip on things. 120 00:12:00,447 --> 00:12:04,998 He promises to squeeze everyone in, so long as we don't mind sitting on the cargo. 121 00:12:05,167 --> 00:12:08,398 After a week on the river, we'll sit on anything. 122 00:12:13,087 --> 00:12:15,806 Barry. Time to go. Thanks ever so much. 123 00:12:15,967 --> 00:12:19,755 - I'll see you... - Great times. From Cuzco onwards. 124 00:12:19,927 --> 00:12:25,365 - If you're in London, come to my local. - What's the local pub? 125 00:12:25,527 --> 00:12:28,200 (INDISTINCT) 126 00:12:28,367 --> 00:12:30,961 - Have a great trip. - Take care. 127 00:12:31,127 --> 00:12:33,163 It's been a pleasure. 128 00:12:44,207 --> 00:12:49,565 We fly north over a vast, largely unbroken swathe of forest. 129 00:12:51,087 --> 00:12:55,046 It's a 600-mile journey that would have taken ten days by boat. 130 00:12:55,207 --> 00:12:59,917 0ur destination is lquitos, capital of the Peruvian jungle. 131 00:13:02,527 --> 00:13:05,599 By now, the Urubamba has become the Amazon. 132 00:13:05,767 --> 00:13:08,998 It's the dry season and the world's greatest river is low, 133 00:13:09,167 --> 00:13:13,399 scarcely reaching the bank on which the city's built. 134 00:13:13,567 --> 00:13:19,119 For a place surrounded by jungle and with no road communication with the rest of Peru, 135 00:13:19,287 --> 00:13:22,484 lquitos is surprisingly stylish. 136 00:13:26,647 --> 00:13:31,437 It owes most of its faded charm to the rubber boom of the 1880s. 137 00:13:35,407 --> 00:13:40,322 The new houses of the rubber barons showed 0ld World taste. 138 00:13:45,327 --> 00:13:48,239 Lquitos is two towns in one. 139 00:13:48,407 --> 00:13:50,796 The Europeans live up on the hill 140 00:13:50,967 --> 00:13:55,404 and the Indians down by the river, in a shanty town called Belén, 141 00:13:55,567 --> 00:13:57,717 short for Bethlehem. 142 00:13:59,367 --> 00:14:02,279 - It's a great street-vending city. - Definitely. 143 00:14:02,447 --> 00:14:05,484 - We have a good market. - That's rather nice. 144 00:14:05,647 --> 00:14:11,244 This is a bandstand that was brought from France in the early 1900s. 145 00:14:11,407 --> 00:14:13,398 Yeah. 146 00:14:14,407 --> 00:14:17,399 My companion, Jorge, comes from uptown lquitos 147 00:14:17,567 --> 00:14:19,717 but clearly loves the bustle of Belén. 148 00:14:19,887 --> 00:14:22,526 It doesn't always look like this. 149 00:14:22,687 --> 00:14:26,999 When it floods, how much of this is going to be under water? 150 00:14:27,167 --> 00:14:31,001 - Where we're walking now? - Somewhere like about two metres. 151 00:14:31,167 --> 00:14:36,844 - The big boats come directly to the plaza. - This becomes a canal. 152 00:14:37,007 --> 00:14:40,204 This is what we call the Peruvian Venice. 153 00:14:40,367 --> 00:14:44,326 - Let's get a gondola! - You see canoes here and there all the time. 154 00:14:44,487 --> 00:14:48,196 There are plenty of things for sale. The stalls are full. 155 00:14:48,367 --> 00:14:50,358 What about the services here? 156 00:14:50,527 --> 00:14:54,725 Does the town provide sanitation or electricity? 157 00:14:54,887 --> 00:14:59,597 Yes, the city provides electricity, as you can see here, the wiring. 158 00:14:59,767 --> 00:15:04,204 They also have potable water, but there is no sewage system here yet. 159 00:15:04,367 --> 00:15:06,562 Everything is down onto the floor. 160 00:15:06,727 --> 00:15:09,924 You can see on the other side, all those outhouses. 161 00:15:10,087 --> 00:15:13,523 There's a lot of rubbish. It must be bad for disease. 162 00:15:13,687 --> 00:15:16,918 We have a very high per cent of infant mortality. 163 00:15:17,087 --> 00:15:24,721 Somewhere like 18-20% infant mortality in the first five years, caused mostly by parasites. 164 00:15:29,527 --> 00:15:32,519 This is one way they make the conditions tolerable. 165 00:15:32,687 --> 00:15:37,715 A do-it-yourself distillery makes aguardiente, sugar-cane spirit. 166 00:15:41,047 --> 00:15:45,677 The city council wants to move people out, but the locals refuse to go. 167 00:15:45,847 --> 00:15:51,001 They like their shops and their market, and there are things you'd never find in Safeway. 168 00:15:51,167 --> 00:15:55,524 When the river lowers, you're going to see catfishes here. 169 00:15:55,687 --> 00:15:57,917 - Yeah. - Vicious piranhas here. 170 00:15:58,087 --> 00:16:00,317 - That's a piranha? - Look at the teeth. 171 00:16:00,487 --> 00:16:02,637 Sharp as a razor blade. 172 00:16:02,807 --> 00:16:07,722 The Indians in the Amazon use the piranha's jaw for sharpening their darts, 173 00:16:07,887 --> 00:16:11,004 to shoot the animals with a blowgun. 174 00:16:13,367 --> 00:16:16,757 A lady called Julia is a one-woman cigarette factory. 175 00:16:16,927 --> 00:16:20,078 She rolls about 3,000 pieces of this tobacco here. 176 00:16:20,247 --> 00:16:22,920 - 3,000 pieces a day? - Yeah. 177 00:16:23,087 --> 00:16:25,078 This roll has 100 pieces. 178 00:16:25,247 --> 00:16:28,842 - It costs about four soles. - Wonderful tobacco. 179 00:16:29,007 --> 00:16:35,082 - Can you buy these elsewhere in the city? - No, you have to come here. 180 00:16:35,247 --> 00:16:37,681 You can buy it by units. 181 00:16:37,847 --> 00:16:40,964 - Are they strong? - Very strong. You want to try? 182 00:16:41,127 --> 00:16:43,880 I don't smoke. I'll probably blow my head off. 183 00:16:44,047 --> 00:16:47,119 We can try. You can try. You'll like it. 184 00:16:48,367 --> 00:16:52,645 No. You've got to smoke a little. 185 00:16:52,807 --> 00:16:55,002 The future shaman of the Amazon. 186 00:16:55,167 --> 00:16:58,637 God, it is... Very strong. Very bitter. 187 00:16:58,807 --> 00:17:04,439 The closest comparison would be with the Gitanes from France. 188 00:17:06,007 --> 00:17:08,157 Bless you all! 189 00:17:08,327 --> 00:17:12,764 You have to walk quite a way in the dry season to find the river. 190 00:17:12,927 --> 00:17:16,522 - It's almost a kilometre and a half. - Down that street. 191 00:17:16,687 --> 00:17:20,566 This is a tributary of the Amazon, called the Itaya. 192 00:17:20,727 --> 00:17:24,800 Now it's very low, but it gets much lower too. 193 00:17:24,967 --> 00:17:28,801 - Lower than this? - Yes, but this is a main entrance to the city. 194 00:17:30,047 --> 00:17:32,038 River transport remains basic. 195 00:17:32,207 --> 00:17:38,237 Goods are carried on backs, and passengers squeeze on public ferries called collectivos. 196 00:17:38,407 --> 00:17:41,285 Though you can splash out on a water taxi. 197 00:17:43,407 --> 00:17:48,242 The rise and fall of the river each season does not encourage an air of permanence. 198 00:17:53,807 --> 00:17:57,402 Ten years ago, Frenchman Didier Lacasse came to the rainforest 199 00:17:57,567 --> 00:18:00,798 to research the healing properties of jungle plants. 200 00:18:04,767 --> 00:18:07,361 He stayed, set up a medicinal garden 201 00:18:07,527 --> 00:18:10,439 and has become a shaman, a traditional healer. 202 00:18:10,607 --> 00:18:13,917 - A leaf from this bush here. - Yeah. 203 00:18:14,087 --> 00:18:16,521 He uses the leaves of many plants, 204 00:18:16,687 --> 00:18:21,397 but the most effective of all his potions is the root of the ayahuasca, 205 00:18:21,567 --> 00:18:24,604 which is pounded into a paste. 206 00:18:24,767 --> 00:18:27,327 It's then boiled up into a powerful brew. 207 00:18:27,487 --> 00:18:33,722 Is it important for the healing that there is a hallucinogenic experience? 208 00:18:33,887 --> 00:18:37,596 Yes, it's very important. It helps you to see. 209 00:18:37,767 --> 00:18:42,363 When you see, you have the power to heal, basically. 210 00:18:42,527 --> 00:18:45,997 The seeing is a basis for healing. 211 00:18:46,767 --> 00:18:51,079 Didier's herbal surgery has many elements of religious ritual. 212 00:18:51,247 --> 00:18:54,876 He's the high priest. The ayahuasca is the sacrament. 213 00:19:07,487 --> 00:19:12,277 Despite the intensity of the experience, Didier has allowed us to film what goes on. 214 00:19:12,447 --> 00:19:18,477 Now he's drunk the ayahuasca, I ask him how long he'll feel able to answer my questions. 215 00:19:19,327 --> 00:19:21,124 Five minutes, ten minutes. 216 00:19:22,647 --> 00:19:28,483 You will be hallucinating, so presumably you will be seeing things that we can't see. 217 00:19:28,647 --> 00:19:30,638 But can you control that? 218 00:19:30,807 --> 00:19:36,598 You have them in their place and you're aware of the situation here at the same time? 219 00:19:36,767 --> 00:19:40,282 There is a certain amount of control, obviously. 220 00:19:40,447 --> 00:19:44,998 It's... It's the skill of the shaman 221 00:19:45,167 --> 00:19:50,844 to be able to control this flow of energy, of hallucination, 222 00:19:51,007 --> 00:19:55,637 that would turn someone else crazy, probably. 223 00:19:55,807 --> 00:20:00,483 So we learn how to control that craziness, if you can say that. 224 00:20:01,487 --> 00:20:07,039 Didier's style may be unfamiliar, but the powerful properties of the plants are not in dispute. 225 00:20:07,207 --> 00:20:10,995 The rainforest is alive with drug companies looking for the secrets. 226 00:20:11,167 --> 00:20:15,479 But Didier prefers to treat and cure local people. 227 00:20:17,407 --> 00:20:20,160 (CHANTING) 228 00:20:20,327 --> 00:20:24,445 Eventually it's time for each patient to come for a consultation. 229 00:20:24,607 --> 00:20:27,519 (CHANTS) 230 00:20:36,167 --> 00:20:38,283 The consultation is like a seance 231 00:20:38,447 --> 00:20:44,966 in which the shaman uses his new-found insight to sense what is wrong with the patient. 232 00:21:14,687 --> 00:21:17,326 Then he asked for me to come forward. 233 00:21:35,927 --> 00:21:39,840 The chanting sets up a pleasant aura of spiritual relaxation. 234 00:21:40,847 --> 00:21:47,161 I feel comfortably out of place, as an Amazon Indian might at choral evensong. 235 00:21:55,007 --> 00:22:01,116 You can carry this with you 236 00:22:01,287 --> 00:22:05,565 on your many journeys that you will be taking. 237 00:22:05,727 --> 00:22:07,718 It's for good luck... 238 00:22:07,887 --> 00:22:11,277 Didier gives a blessing, wishing me good luck on my journey 239 00:22:11,447 --> 00:22:16,157 and the hope that when I meet people, they will always be good friends. 240 00:22:19,207 --> 00:22:22,244 This seems the right note on which to leave. 241 00:22:29,367 --> 00:22:35,078 The El Arca, a British-built riverboat, first sailed the Amazon in 1882. 242 00:22:35,247 --> 00:22:37,681 Today she's taking us out of lquitos. 243 00:22:41,967 --> 00:22:46,245 She makes a weekly trip downriver and will take us to the Colombian border, 244 00:22:46,407 --> 00:22:49,319 now only 300 miles away. 245 00:22:51,087 --> 00:22:56,764 It's hot, it's cramped, but a childhood dream has come true. I'm on the Amazon. 246 00:23:29,847 --> 00:23:32,805 The people from a local village come out to meet us. 247 00:23:32,967 --> 00:23:37,995 0ne of them carries something I've rarely seen in the Amazon. A wild animal. 248 00:23:39,007 --> 00:23:43,000 - What is this? - This is an ocelot. 249 00:23:43,167 --> 00:23:48,446 - They don't grow too big. Just this size. - Yeah? 250 00:23:48,607 --> 00:23:51,883 - This is like two or three months old. - Yeah. 251 00:23:52,047 --> 00:23:55,278 - Can I hold him? - (SPEAKS SPANISH) 252 00:23:55,447 --> 00:23:57,836 Oh, yes. There we are. 253 00:23:58,847 --> 00:24:01,122 That's a first, isn't it? 254 00:24:01,287 --> 00:24:06,202 You poor thing. You're very sleepy, aren't you? I know the feeling. 255 00:24:06,367 --> 00:24:10,280 - This species are in danger now. - Yeah. 256 00:24:10,447 --> 00:24:14,076 They are always chasing away because people are killing them. 257 00:24:14,247 --> 00:24:16,238 They are always hiding. 258 00:24:16,407 --> 00:24:22,596 People from lquitos are coming down here looking for this skin. They pay cheap. 259 00:24:22,767 --> 00:24:27,682 - They're hard to find now. - You have to go way into the jungle. 260 00:24:27,847 --> 00:24:32,682 - Walk hours, days to get them. - Oh, look. Oh, yes. 261 00:24:32,847 --> 00:24:35,566 What happened to its parents? 262 00:24:35,727 --> 00:24:39,242 I think they already killed its parents. 263 00:24:39,407 --> 00:24:41,796 What will happen? He wants to sell it? 264 00:24:41,967 --> 00:24:45,323 200 dollars. 265 00:24:45,487 --> 00:24:48,957 Anyone want an ocelot? I can't take it. I'm going to Alaska. 266 00:24:49,127 --> 00:24:51,561 You'll die of cold there, won't you? 267 00:24:52,807 --> 00:24:58,359 Near the village is a lagoon which seems as close to a Garden of Eden as you'll get. 268 00:24:58,527 --> 00:25:01,439 Everything from giant lily pads to giant spiders 269 00:25:01,607 --> 00:25:04,565 seems to flourish here in extraordinary profusion. 270 00:25:04,727 --> 00:25:08,242 And for once you can actually see the birds. 271 00:25:28,967 --> 00:25:32,243 I'd like the Amazon to stay like this, as I'd imagined it. 272 00:25:32,887 --> 00:25:34,878 But it's changing. 273 00:25:41,487 --> 00:25:47,119 Deforestation has reduced rainfall here by 120 per cent in a generation. 274 00:25:47,287 --> 00:25:51,838 And if there's oil and gas to be found, more trees will have to go. 275 00:25:59,007 --> 00:26:03,478 The unceasing heat of the days and the hothouse stickiness of the nights 276 00:26:03,647 --> 00:26:06,525 saps the energy. 277 00:26:14,007 --> 00:26:18,762 Before the river lulls us into total lethargy, it's time to move on. 278 00:26:18,927 --> 00:26:24,365 After three weeks on the Peruvian river system, we've now reached a crossroads. 279 00:26:24,527 --> 00:26:29,885 The Amazon has brought us to Peru on this side, Brazil over there and Colombia over there. 280 00:26:30,047 --> 00:26:33,881 The Amazon goes on 2,000 miles into the Atlantic. 281 00:26:34,047 --> 00:26:40,600 We're gonna head north through Colombia and back up towards the Pacific, wherever that is. 282 00:26:43,647 --> 00:26:47,640 There are only two ways out of the Colombian frontier town of Leticia. 283 00:26:47,807 --> 00:26:50,116 By river or by air. 284 00:26:50,287 --> 00:26:53,438 A river journey back to the Andes will take two weeks. 285 00:26:53,607 --> 00:26:55,837 A flight will take two hours. 286 00:26:56,007 --> 00:27:00,205 We board a plane to take us across the equator to Bogotá. 287 00:27:07,207 --> 00:27:10,517 We could be said to have swapped one jungle for another. 288 00:27:10,687 --> 00:27:14,236 Colombia's capital is the biggest city we've seen since Sydney. 289 00:27:14,407 --> 00:27:18,320 It has a reputation as one of the most violent places on earth. 290 00:27:19,327 --> 00:27:25,038 To find out why, I go to see Tim Ross, a British journalist living and working here. 291 00:27:25,207 --> 00:27:27,323 - Hey. - Hi. Pleased to meet you. 292 00:27:27,487 --> 00:27:30,047 - This is Herman, the driver. - How do you do? 293 00:27:30,207 --> 00:27:33,995 This is the car we use for the streets. It's the most unobtrusive. 294 00:27:34,167 --> 00:27:36,158 I'm told you do a great city tour. 295 00:27:36,327 --> 00:27:40,240 The city is great. I think it's fun, but it's not a city with tourism. 296 00:27:40,407 --> 00:27:42,875 That has ended because of the dangers. 297 00:27:43,047 --> 00:27:45,959 One of the world's highest per capita homicide rates. 298 00:27:46,127 --> 00:27:50,484 100 murders per 100,000 population here. 50 times the British murder rate. 299 00:27:50,647 --> 00:27:55,243 - So it's not exaggerated. - No. This really is a dangerous city. 300 00:27:55,407 --> 00:27:58,604 Not just for murder and major violence, but petty things. 301 00:27:58,767 --> 00:28:02,442 The pickpocket, the snatch artist, the man who grabs your glasses. 302 00:28:02,607 --> 00:28:05,963 People try to grab them... Anything they can sell for drugs. 303 00:28:06,127 --> 00:28:09,005 It has a major drug problem, which is crippling it. 304 00:28:09,167 --> 00:28:12,443 - You've worked here a long time? - Yes, a long time. 305 00:28:12,607 --> 00:28:17,044 We work the streets, usually on foot, but for filming we take Dodge Dart. 306 00:28:17,207 --> 00:28:22,679 It takes us out there unobtrusively. It's big enough for cameras. It's great. 307 00:28:27,887 --> 00:28:30,321 The troubled streets to which Tim takes us 308 00:28:30,487 --> 00:28:36,517 are only six blocks from the presidential palace in the heart of downtown Bogotá. 309 00:28:42,007 --> 00:28:48,276 His advice to us generally is to stay in the car, but this corner, he says, is safe enough. 310 00:28:54,767 --> 00:28:57,076 Let's go round here. 311 00:28:58,487 --> 00:29:03,117 Tim is well known here. He's reported on these streets for 20 years. 312 00:29:03,287 --> 00:29:06,279 Death squads watch this area and kill people at night. 313 00:29:06,447 --> 00:29:09,166 This next street, they've put posters up. 314 00:29:09,327 --> 00:29:13,843 Who are the death squads? Who do they compose? What justice are they dealing out? 315 00:29:14,007 --> 00:29:16,157 Justice? Bullets in the head. 316 00:29:16,327 --> 00:29:20,161 It's shopkeepers, off-duty policemen, private security guards. 317 00:29:20,327 --> 00:29:24,525 People who have been mugged go back with a gun and kill street people. 318 00:29:24,687 --> 00:29:26,962 - Vigilante groups. - Yeah. 319 00:29:27,127 --> 00:29:29,561 At what sort of rate do they kill people? 320 00:29:29,727 --> 00:29:32,116 Sometimes four, five, six cases a week. 321 00:29:32,287 --> 00:29:34,517 Two or three people a night killed. 322 00:29:38,007 --> 00:29:42,637 Armed police patrol neighbourhoods reduced by the drug trade to war zones. 323 00:29:42,807 --> 00:29:45,719 Tim knows many of the casualties. 324 00:29:45,887 --> 00:29:48,401 (THEY SPEAK SPANISH) 325 00:29:48,567 --> 00:29:53,516 It was a knife stab. They had to open it up and stitch him up inside. 326 00:29:53,687 --> 00:29:57,202 (THEY SPEAK SPANISH) 327 00:29:57,367 --> 00:30:00,200 - It touched the heart. - Who did that and why? 328 00:30:00,367 --> 00:30:02,562 (THEY SPEAK SPANISH) 329 00:30:05,327 --> 00:30:10,959 On the main street, to rob him. He's a street person, a drug abuser. 330 00:30:11,127 --> 00:30:15,006 Those are the stains of drug use. They're bright orange. 331 00:30:15,167 --> 00:30:19,240 - You're lucky to survive that. - (SPEAKS SPANISH) 332 00:30:19,407 --> 00:30:21,398 Look at the scars. 333 00:30:21,567 --> 00:30:28,166 That's typical of the transvestite male prostitutes, the self-mutilation. 334 00:30:28,327 --> 00:30:32,798 He has Aids. He has to go back to the foundation for Aids patients. 335 00:30:32,967 --> 00:30:36,562 - Will he do it? - Yes. He wants to persuade his friend. 336 00:30:36,727 --> 00:30:41,437 The trouble is to persuade the friend. He doesn't want to leave him. 337 00:30:43,727 --> 00:30:46,241 (SPEAKS SPANISH) 338 00:30:48,407 --> 00:30:51,843 - Have you got a small bill? - (SPEAKS SPANISH) 339 00:30:52,007 --> 00:30:54,965 I've only got a small bill. That's all I have. 340 00:30:55,127 --> 00:30:57,482 (THEY SPEAK SPANISH) 341 00:31:02,967 --> 00:31:04,958 - Bye-bye. - Bye. 342 00:31:11,767 --> 00:31:17,683 Back in the car, we head for the most notorious street of all. Calle Cartouche - Bullet Street. 343 00:31:17,847 --> 00:31:19,838 This is where they start recycling. 344 00:31:20,007 --> 00:31:23,682 See all the recyclers here. Grimy people all over these streets. 345 00:31:23,847 --> 00:31:29,080 One of the main activities is consuming drugs and obtaining money with which to consume them. 346 00:31:29,247 --> 00:31:36,517 Their lives revolve around it. They get high, come down, find a way to get high again. 347 00:31:36,687 --> 00:31:40,999 Round the clock. They sleep for only the time necessary to recover enough 348 00:31:41,167 --> 00:31:47,606 to get on with another day of obtaining scrap and garbage, selling it, getting their drugs. 349 00:31:47,767 --> 00:31:52,716 - The people we're seeing... - See this guy smoking there in the cap? 350 00:31:52,887 --> 00:31:55,959 And the people next to him. They're all basuco addicts. 351 00:31:56,127 --> 00:31:58,687 (SPEAKS SPANISH TO DRIVER) 352 00:31:59,847 --> 00:32:01,997 The left-hand side here is stronger. 353 00:32:02,167 --> 00:32:06,843 If you can shoot across Herman's shoulder, you'll see these people there. 354 00:32:07,007 --> 00:32:10,238 (SPEAKS SPANISH TO DRIVER) 355 00:32:13,047 --> 00:32:16,642 (SPEAKING SPANISH) 356 00:32:18,607 --> 00:32:24,000 The man on the left just warning us. "Be careful round there or they'll rob you blind." 357 00:32:24,167 --> 00:32:28,922 If they see someone like this going through, do they see it as a target? 358 00:32:29,087 --> 00:32:31,078 Yes. 359 00:32:31,247 --> 00:32:35,604 They're already yelling insults at us. Now they're throwing rocks. 360 00:32:36,647 --> 00:32:38,126 Whoops. 361 00:32:38,287 --> 00:32:40,357 They've started getting hostile. 362 00:32:40,527 --> 00:32:43,997 They assume we're a death squad or police or something. 363 00:32:44,167 --> 00:32:48,843 Stabbings are frequent. They use broken bottles on each other's faces. 364 00:32:49,007 --> 00:32:54,843 A squabble can start for nothing. A squabble over 50 cents' worth of marijuana. 365 00:32:55,007 --> 00:33:00,035 Why is it so particularly bad in Colombia? 366 00:33:00,207 --> 00:33:05,679 It's a producing country. Wherever you get drug production, you get drug consumption. 367 00:33:05,847 --> 00:33:11,319 The United States and Europe are blamed for the drug trafficking problem because of demand there. 368 00:33:11,487 --> 00:33:14,285 What the Colombian government ignores 369 00:33:14,447 --> 00:33:17,405 is the level of substance abuse, drugs and alcohol. 370 00:33:17,567 --> 00:33:23,756 A million alcoholics in a country of 36 million. An estimated 900,000 solvent abusers. 371 00:33:23,927 --> 00:33:29,638 That means sniffing gasoline, petrol, glue. Legal things. It's a vast problem. 372 00:33:29,807 --> 00:33:34,085 Basuco, cocaine base. Nobody's done any proper survey work. 373 00:33:35,887 --> 00:33:38,924 The desolation is matched by political inertia. 374 00:33:39,087 --> 00:33:42,875 There is money, but those who have it are not prepared to share. 375 00:33:43,047 --> 00:33:51,125 Tim, I've been recommended a rather eccentric restaurant called Margarita del Ocho. 376 00:33:51,287 --> 00:33:53,960 - Do you want to come? - I'm not going there. 377 00:33:54,127 --> 00:33:56,118 It's owned by the Ochoa family 378 00:33:56,287 --> 00:34:01,122 who are renowned for their involvement in the Medellin cartel, drug traffickers. 379 00:34:01,287 --> 00:34:06,566 I was warned against them when there was an attempt to kill me for another documentary. 380 00:34:06,727 --> 00:34:10,117 - Sorry. I was only gonna buy you lunch! - Thanks. 381 00:34:10,287 --> 00:34:15,156 - It's a serious drug connection? - Serious drug connection. 382 00:34:15,327 --> 00:34:18,797 It's run by old Fabio Ochoa, the Fat Man, as he's known. 383 00:34:18,967 --> 00:34:22,084 One of his sons just got out of prison after five years, 384 00:34:22,247 --> 00:34:26,081 to the great distaste of the US, where he would have served life. 385 00:34:26,247 --> 00:34:28,363 He's one of the biggest drug traffickers. 386 00:34:29,327 --> 00:34:31,045 (APPLAUSE) 387 00:34:33,527 --> 00:34:39,318 The sign says "restaurant", but once inside, Don Fabio's priorities are clearly elsewhere. 388 00:34:39,487 --> 00:34:42,718 It's easier to get a horse than a waiter. 389 00:34:44,847 --> 00:34:48,760 The Spanish legacy seems to have created an obsession with horses. 390 00:34:48,927 --> 00:34:51,566 There are 700 on the premises. 391 00:34:51,727 --> 00:34:54,525 Children learn to ride before they can walk. 392 00:34:54,687 --> 00:34:57,838 Don Fabio's daughter sets an example. 393 00:35:00,167 --> 00:35:04,763 Then comes the moment I'm not sure I've been waiting for. 394 00:35:04,927 --> 00:35:08,124 Don Fabio has granted us a rare interview. 395 00:35:08,287 --> 00:35:13,236 I keep the questions friendly for my own safety and because I'm overawed. 396 00:35:13,407 --> 00:35:17,195 As would anyone be interviewing Marlon Brando for the first time. 397 00:35:17,367 --> 00:35:20,439 (SPEAKS SPANISH) 398 00:35:23,447 --> 00:35:26,007 The place, he says, symbolises a tradition. 399 00:35:26,167 --> 00:35:29,443 100 years of tradition for the 0choa family. 400 00:35:29,607 --> 00:35:33,566 From it have come some of the finest horses in the world. 401 00:35:33,727 --> 00:35:36,639 (MICHAEL SPEAKS SPANISH) 402 00:35:37,647 --> 00:35:41,037 I ask if a demonstration of horsemanship is on the cards. 403 00:35:41,207 --> 00:35:46,281 He seems delighted to be asked, though it throws his bodyguards into a spin. 404 00:35:47,767 --> 00:35:50,759 They appear from all sides and rush to help him up, 405 00:35:50,927 --> 00:35:53,122 at least two to each limb. 406 00:36:12,527 --> 00:36:15,280 The raising of Don Fabio is not an elegant sight, 407 00:36:15,447 --> 00:36:18,996 but once he's in the saddle, he's a changed man. 408 00:36:28,487 --> 00:36:31,399 (SINGS IN SPANISH) 409 00:36:41,247 --> 00:36:46,765 Lucky diners can watch the paso fino performed by a magnificently trained horse 410 00:36:46,927 --> 00:36:50,203 whilst enjoying bits of other less fortunate animals. 411 00:37:05,367 --> 00:37:08,279 This is a family business run by the family. 412 00:37:08,447 --> 00:37:12,998 Don Fabio's new wife flashes the sweet smile of success. 413 00:37:19,927 --> 00:37:22,999 They're opening similar places up and down the country. 414 00:37:23,167 --> 00:37:27,126 It's clearly big business. And it's legitimate. 415 00:37:35,647 --> 00:37:38,923 It's not recommended to drive through the mountains west of Bogotá. 416 00:37:39,087 --> 00:37:43,365 There are believed to be a dozen armed guerrilla groups operating there, 417 00:37:43,527 --> 00:37:47,440 each seeking to control its own area of influence. 418 00:37:47,607 --> 00:37:53,477 0ne of the bitterest battles was fought for control of this mountain, Cosquez. 419 00:37:53,647 --> 00:38:00,485 3,500 people lost their lives in the fighting, but then the stakes were high. 420 00:38:00,647 --> 00:38:03,161 This is the Colombian Wild West, 421 00:38:03,327 --> 00:38:08,879 the largest, richest, most dangerous emerald mine in the world. 422 00:38:11,767 --> 00:38:15,680 Cosquez mountain is being slowly and painstakingly ripped apart 423 00:38:15,847 --> 00:38:18,407 in the search for emeralds. 424 00:38:20,607 --> 00:38:25,920 They call this "black land", and a lot of hard work goes into finding very little. 425 00:38:26,087 --> 00:38:28,078 We're here at the right moment. 426 00:38:31,167 --> 00:38:33,727 Unlike diamonds, which have to be fashioned, 427 00:38:33,887 --> 00:38:38,039 an emerald comes out of the ground bright green and fully formed. 428 00:38:38,207 --> 00:38:43,156 So that's what it looks like? Yeah. That's good. 429 00:38:43,327 --> 00:38:44,726 (SPEAKING SPANISH) 430 00:38:44,887 --> 00:38:48,675 This, I'm told, is a good piece, worth around $10,000. 431 00:38:51,687 --> 00:38:55,362 (SPEAKING SPANISH) 432 00:38:59,247 --> 00:39:02,478 At the bottom of the mountain, beyond the company fences, 433 00:39:02,647 --> 00:39:05,036 a stream runs out of the mine. 434 00:39:05,207 --> 00:39:12,045 Here the guaqueros, the scavengers, can sift through the crumbs from the rich man's table. 435 00:39:16,527 --> 00:39:19,325 6,000 people live on the mountain. 436 00:39:19,487 --> 00:39:22,843 0nly a third of them work for the mining company. 437 00:39:29,727 --> 00:39:32,639 In almost intolerable heat and discomfort, 438 00:39:32,807 --> 00:39:36,720 men, women and even children scour the black silt 439 00:39:36,887 --> 00:39:41,165 for a glimpse of something that might change their lives. 440 00:39:45,927 --> 00:39:51,604 Crowds cluster round the head of the stream like rescuers at the scene of a disaster. 441 00:40:13,527 --> 00:40:17,600 The guaqueros search largely in vain, but always in hope. 442 00:40:27,047 --> 00:40:30,198 Surprisingly, I see no fights or arguments amongst them. 443 00:40:32,487 --> 00:40:36,844 Though these people may be desperately poor, they help each other out. 444 00:40:37,967 --> 00:40:40,481 0r maybe I just came on a good day. 445 00:40:47,167 --> 00:40:50,842 At the top of the mountain, the guaqueros have a shanty community, 446 00:40:51,007 --> 00:40:56,035 with shops, bars, kitchens, cafes, brothels and banks. 447 00:41:07,367 --> 00:41:13,522 It's up here that the most important part of the process takes place - the buying and selling. 448 00:41:13,687 --> 00:41:19,080 Hundreds of emerald dealers in four-wheel drives grind up the mountain each morning. 449 00:41:22,807 --> 00:41:27,085 Those who've struck lucky bargain with the hard men from Bogotá. 450 00:41:27,247 --> 00:41:29,841 (SPEAKING SPANISH) 451 00:41:40,887 --> 00:41:43,196 Experts. 452 00:41:44,367 --> 00:41:49,885 So I can find out what to look for. It's just... That's a good one? 453 00:41:50,047 --> 00:41:52,880 (MICHAEL SPEAKS SPANISH) 454 00:41:53,047 --> 00:41:55,561 Serious money is changing hands here. 455 00:41:55,727 --> 00:42:01,916 It's worth remembering that 50 per cent of all the emeralds bought from scavengers here 456 00:42:02,087 --> 00:42:06,046 will be sold abroad as the last word in luxury. 457 00:42:06,927 --> 00:42:10,283 (SPEAKING SPANISH) 458 00:42:16,447 --> 00:42:19,723 (MICHAEL) Más verde es más bueno? 459 00:42:20,887 --> 00:42:25,199 I feel the pressure building. They want me to put my money where my mouth is. 460 00:42:25,367 --> 00:42:28,086 (SPEAKING SPANISH) 461 00:42:34,247 --> 00:42:37,159 (MICHAEL) Ten thousand dollars. 462 00:42:38,167 --> 00:42:40,158 American Express? 463 00:42:40,327 --> 00:42:42,887 (ALL LAUGH) 464 00:42:43,967 --> 00:42:46,117 I think that means that won't do nicely. 465 00:42:59,607 --> 00:43:01,598 Not all Colombia is a battle zone. 466 00:43:01,767 --> 00:43:04,645 The guerrillas and drug barons don't seem interested 467 00:43:04,807 --> 00:43:09,562 in what Colombians call the Zona Cafetera - coffee country. 468 00:43:14,727 --> 00:43:19,118 I hitch a ride in one of the American army jeeps they call Willys. 469 00:43:19,287 --> 00:43:23,485 They use them to carry coffee beans from the plantations to the markets, 470 00:43:23,647 --> 00:43:28,516 and occasionally to help travellers down from the mountains to the sea. 471 00:43:28,687 --> 00:43:34,045 The coffee country around Armenia lies about 3,000 feet above sea level. 472 00:43:34,207 --> 00:43:36,482 It's lower and warmer than Bogotá, 473 00:43:36,647 --> 00:43:42,961 but positively chilly compared to the thick tropical heat of our next destination, Cartagena. 474 00:43:46,007 --> 00:43:50,956 Cartagena de Indias is one of the best-preserved colonial cities on the continent. 475 00:43:54,647 --> 00:43:58,117 The Spanish treasure fleets loaded up here en route to Europe. 476 00:43:58,287 --> 00:44:02,485 These mighty walls were built to protect their cargo. 477 00:44:02,647 --> 00:44:09,280 Cathedrals and churches were built to thank the Almighty for being on Spain's side. 478 00:44:09,447 --> 00:44:12,484 With wealth came a desire to run their own affairs, 479 00:44:12,647 --> 00:44:15,684 and the first South American state independent of Spain 480 00:44:15,847 --> 00:44:21,285 was set up here by Simón Boliívar, the Liberator, in 1811. 481 00:44:27,287 --> 00:44:29,801 Protected by its great sea walls, 482 00:44:29,967 --> 00:44:34,916 the houses of the old town haven't changed much in 300 years. 483 00:44:45,407 --> 00:44:49,002 It's a shock to find that it's like this because of neglect, 484 00:44:49,167 --> 00:44:53,160 because the developers could make more money building a new town nearby 485 00:44:53,327 --> 00:44:56,842 than by messing about with the old. 486 00:45:01,407 --> 00:45:06,435 Much of the hard work of preservation has been done by enlightened individuals. 487 00:45:06,607 --> 00:45:10,600 What was the house like when you got it? Was it like this? 488 00:45:10,767 --> 00:45:13,884 Jacqui Basile is from an old Cartagena family. 489 00:45:14,047 --> 00:45:17,835 She and her husband have eschewed the comforts of a modern apartment 490 00:45:18,007 --> 00:45:22,319 and moved back into the heart of the city. 491 00:45:22,487 --> 00:45:25,684 You had to start from scratch, did you? 492 00:45:25,847 --> 00:45:31,717 Yes. You buy the facade and inside it's an old, crumbling house 493 00:45:31,887 --> 00:45:34,242 and you have to start from scratch. 494 00:45:34,407 --> 00:45:38,958 Most cities have changed a lot and modern buildings have gone up. 495 00:45:39,127 --> 00:45:43,723 Did somebody deliberately stop Cartagena from changing? 496 00:45:43,887 --> 00:45:46,685 No, I think it was just we were lucky 497 00:45:46,847 --> 00:45:52,877 that the mayors and all the governmental people didn't think about the old city. 498 00:45:53,047 --> 00:45:56,198 They wanted new places to be developed. 499 00:45:56,367 --> 00:46:01,395 So they saw this city like a church, like an old thing to be left there, 500 00:46:01,567 --> 00:46:06,322 and then about 30 years ago, only, 501 00:46:06,487 --> 00:46:10,685 the city started to be looked at. 502 00:46:10,847 --> 00:46:15,443 - Nobody had looked at it before. - As someone who's just passing through here, 503 00:46:15,607 --> 00:46:19,725 what would you recommend for me to do to get the feel of Cartagena? 504 00:46:19,887 --> 00:46:26,759 - Well, to start warming up, maybe a Chiva tour. - A Chiva tour. What's that? 505 00:46:26,927 --> 00:46:30,124 A typical bus that we have in all Colombia. 506 00:46:30,287 --> 00:46:32,847 They run from the south to the north. 507 00:46:33,007 --> 00:46:40,004 Here they've become a place with music, drinks, where people from all over meet. 508 00:46:40,167 --> 00:46:44,957 - It'd be good for an inhibited Englishman? - No, for everyone. 509 00:46:45,127 --> 00:46:49,325 Colombians get together and afterwards they know what to do. 510 00:46:49,487 --> 00:46:52,160 (B0TH LAUGH) 511 00:46:52,327 --> 00:46:54,363 (SINGING IN SPANISH) 512 00:47:14,407 --> 00:47:19,003 - Do they have just one bus or lots of buses? - No, a lot, like ten. 513 00:47:19,167 --> 00:47:21,681 Ten buses? Do they get full? 514 00:47:21,847 --> 00:47:28,525 One night you can have ten of these noisy, drunken parties going round the city? 515 00:47:28,687 --> 00:47:32,441 At the end of the evening, what do they do? Dump you all? 516 00:47:32,607 --> 00:47:34,757 By one o'clock you start having fun. 517 00:47:34,927 --> 00:47:36,918 - What's the time? - It's ten. 518 00:47:37,087 --> 00:47:41,922 - Ten? Three hours before I start to have fun. - Three hours to go. 519 00:47:42,087 --> 00:47:45,045 I'll just stay quiet. Anyone got a book to read? 520 00:47:50,527 --> 00:47:53,166 (SINGING IN SPANISH) 521 00:47:59,007 --> 00:48:02,397 Nine weeks and a day since setting foot on Cape Horn, 522 00:48:02,567 --> 00:48:06,401 we've reached the other end of South America. 523 00:48:08,287 --> 00:48:11,359 The last lap of my journey is in sight. 524 00:48:11,527 --> 00:48:14,200 That is provided I survive tonight.